‘THE
RECOVERY OF JERESALEM.
A NARRATIVE OF
EXPLORATION AND DISCOVERY IN THE CITY
AND THE HOLY LAND.
By CAPT WILSONSRE., CAPT. (WARREN))RE,
&e. &e. &eo.
WITH AN INTRODUCTION
BY
ARTHUR PENRHYN STANLEY, D.D.,
DEAN OF WESTMINSTER.
wv
=)
EDITED BY : —
WALTER MORRISON, M.P., é
HONORARY TREASURER TO THE PALESTINE EXPLORATION FUND.
: LONDON:
RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET,
BPublisher in Ordinary te Her Majesty.
1871,
TABLE. OF CONTENTS
PREFACE
Inrropuorion ny tHE Deay or WESTMINSTER .
PART I.
Orpnance Survey or JERvsALEM By Captain Wiison, R.E.
Excavations av JerusaLem py Caprain Warren, R.E.:—~
i
I.
IIL.
IV.
VI.
VIL
VIiT.
cuavenn
Commencement of Operations
Method of Mining adopted . i : >
West Wall of Noble eed
Wilson’s Arch
Robinson's Arch
Suburban Gates of Second Temple
Southern Wall
Eastern Wall and South-East t Angle
North-East Angle :
North Side
Bethesda, according to early Tradition 4
Souterrain No. 1. Convent of Sisters of Sion .
Souterrain No. 2. Convent of Sisters of Sion .
Tanks and Souterrains of the Sanctuary . ‘
Important Discovery north of the Platform of the
Dome of the Rock
Important Discovery on the Sakhra
Solomon’s Stables
b
PAGR
xiii
35
56
76
76
94
111
118
135
159
189
196
198
201
204
218
221
226
x TABLE OF CONTENTS.
CHAPTER
1X. The Waters of Jerusalem
Aqueducts from Solomon’s Pools
Virgin's Fount and Pools of Siloam
Rock-ent Aqueduets in Kedron Valley
Chasm in Rock at Lifta
X. The Holy City .
Muristan .
Gate Gennath
Damascus Gate .
Excavation at British Come story
Shaft in Valley Street .
XI. Ophel , : : : . ‘
Ophel Wall
Extra, Tower
Cayorn in Front of Triple Gate
Seulptured Slab .
Khalat al Jalad .
The Holy City
Sarcophagus .
XII. The Temple of Herod .
The Temple of Solomon
Solomon’s Palace
Appendices
PART If.
Sea or Gauier. By Carrary Wirson, RE. . Fs
Tae AncurrectunaL Rematns or Patrstinn. By R. Pont
Srimrs, Esq.
‘Tne Havran. By THE Couxr DE Vooi's B
Tux Survey or Panestine, By Lieurenant Axpsnaoy, R. E.
On tHE Porrery anv GLASS FoUND IN THE Excavations.
By tae Rev. Grevitte J. Cuuster
Moasite Stoxe
Siwat.. By tae Rev. F. Ww. ‘Hortaxp
TAGE
233
233
238
256
265
268
269
274
277
280
281
285
287
293
295
301
301
303
305
309
312
319
329
337°
388
410
438
472
496
513
THE RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
‘THE
RECOVERY OF JERESALEM.
A NARRATIVE OF
EXPLORATION AND DISCOVERY IN THE CITY
AND THE HOLY LAND.
By CAPT WILSONSRE., CAPT. (WARREN))RE,
&e. &e. &eo.
WITH AN INTRODUCTION
BY
ARTHUR PENRHYN STANLEY, D.D.,
DEAN OF WESTMINSTER.
wv
=)
EDITED BY : —
WALTER MORRISON, M.P., é
HONORARY TREASURER TO THE PALESTINE EXPLORATION FUND.
: LONDON:
RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET,
BPublisher in Ordinary te Her Majesty.
1871,
LONDON .
PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS,
STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSB,
EDITOR’S PREFACKH.
Tne following pages ane wv feitln in. the kane’
they willbe fewud to contribute in. no small measure
to our knowledge of the Holy City and the sacred
localities about it; that they will help to show not
only what is known, but what is unknown ; and that
they will serve as a further aid to real students of
the Book which gives this volume all its interest.
The Editor thinks it desirable to give a few
words of explanation by way of preface. The work of
the Fund had grown so much upon the hands of the
Committee, had assumed dimensions so much larger
than was originally contemplated, that it became
important to devise some means, besides the medium
of the “Quarterly Statement” issued by the Fund,
of summing up and popularizing the main results
obtained, This has been done in the following pages.
In this-volume will be found, besides other papers,
“vie EDITORS PREFACE.
an account of Captain Wilson’s Survey, for’ which
the necessary funds were supplied by Miss Burdett
(Coutts; and of the excavations in Jerusalent itself byr
' Captain Warren, illustrated by plans and woodcuts.
It is due to Captain Warren to state that his interest-
ing and valuable narrative has been drawn up
under heavy pressure, owing to shortnées of time and
ill-health. Returning to England in May, suffering
from fever and exhaustion caused by work more
arduous and anxious than can be here explained, he
found himself called upon not only to prepare a com-
ake account of his excavations, but also to give at
i ent,*
The limits of this. volume have~@ox ne
Editor, most unwillingly, to make considerable re-
ductions in Captain Warren’s original paper. Care
has been taken to preserve all that relates to the
actual work, while his conclusions are given in full.
The revised paper has been submitted to Captain
Warren, :
Iil-health has prevented Mr. Deutsch from con-
* There are five illustrations for which the thanks of the Editor are
- due to the manager of the “ Illustrated London News.” These are,
the two full page engravings of Wilson’s Arch and Robinson’s Arch,
and the three small ones of the shafts at the South-East Angle, the .
Golden Gateway, and the chamber at the North-East Angle. All of
these, except the last, which is from a sketch by Captain Warren,
were taken in Jerusalem by Mr. Simpson, who examined all the works
in company with him. They subsequently appeared in the “ Illustrated
London News;” and permission has been very kindly given to re-
produce them here with some slight alterations made by Captain
Warren himself.
EDI TOR’ ‘S PREFACE vii
tributing an essay on the Meabite Stone, as had been
originally contemplated. There will be found,
however, an accurate history of the finding and
the steps taken for the recovery of thé “stone, with
two of the latest translations.
The Editor has to record his thanks to Mr. Greville
Chester and Mr. Phené Spiers for their valuable
contributions, prepared at very short notice.
He must, also, express his gratitude to the Count
de Vogiié for the fulfilment of his promise to con-
tribute his paper on the Hauran. He was already —
at the front with the French army, occupied in
his noble work with the ambulance corps, when a
letter from the Secretary reached him, reminding him ‘
of the promised contribution. He hastened back to
Paris, sent off the MS., which wanted only the last
paragraphs, and returned to his post. ‘The transla-
tion has been made with great care, and though it
has not had the author’s personal. revision, it will
be found as interesting as it is important.
With regard to the title: more than. two-thirds
of the volume are concerned with the” ‘Holy City
itself, while the remaining pages describe explora-
tions in that range of country which, in a wide sense,
may be considered the Holy Land. It is hoped, there-
fore, that the adoption for its title of the old Crusading
watchword, the “Recovery of Jerusalem,” will be
thought germane to the general object of the Society
under whose auspices it is -put forth. That old
viii EDITOR'S PREFACE.
cry pointed to the Land as well as to the City, and
may fairly be used for the purpose of the new
Crusade. The materials for the book, with the ex-
ception of those on the surveys of Jerusalem and
Sinai, carried out under the direction of Colonel Sir
Henry James, R.E., and that by the Count de Vogiié,
have been entirely furnished by the expeditions
organized by the Palestine Exploration Fund.
It had been originally intended that it should be
edited by the Honorary Officers of the Fund; but the .
pressure of other labours threw this duty on one of
the Treasurers.
9, Pau Mar. Kasr,
November, 1870.
TABLE. OF CONTENTS
PREFACE
Inrropuorion ny tHE Deay or WESTMINSTER .
PART I.
Orpnance Survey or JERvsALEM By Captain Wiison, R.E.
Excavations av JerusaLem py Caprain Warren, R.E.:—~
i
I.
IIL.
IV.
VI.
VIL
VIiT.
cuavenn
Commencement of Operations
Method of Mining adopted . i : >
West Wall of Noble eed
Wilson’s Arch
Robinson's Arch
Suburban Gates of Second Temple
Southern Wall
Eastern Wall and South-East t Angle
North-East Angle :
North Side
Bethesda, according to early Tradition 4
Souterrain No. 1. Convent of Sisters of Sion .
Souterrain No. 2. Convent of Sisters of Sion .
Tanks and Souterrains of the Sanctuary . ‘
Important Discovery north of the Platform of the
Dome of the Rock
Important Discovery on the Sakhra
Solomon’s Stables
b
PAGR
xiii
35
56
76
76
94
111
118
135
159
189
196
198
201
204
218
221
226
x TABLE OF CONTENTS.
CHAPTER
1X. The Waters of Jerusalem
Aqueducts from Solomon’s Pools
Virgin's Fount and Pools of Siloam
Rock-ent Aqueduets in Kedron Valley
Chasm in Rock at Lifta
X. The Holy City .
Muristan .
Gate Gennath
Damascus Gate .
Excavation at British Come story
Shaft in Valley Street .
XI. Ophel , : : : . ‘
Ophel Wall
Extra, Tower
Cayorn in Front of Triple Gate
Seulptured Slab .
Khalat al Jalad .
The Holy City
Sarcophagus .
XII. The Temple of Herod .
The Temple of Solomon
Solomon’s Palace
Appendices
PART If.
Sea or Gauier. By Carrary Wirson, RE. . Fs
Tae AncurrectunaL Rematns or Patrstinn. By R. Pont
Srimrs, Esq.
‘Tne Havran. By THE Couxr DE Vooi's B
Tux Survey or Panestine, By Lieurenant Axpsnaoy, R. E.
On tHE Porrery anv GLASS FoUND IN THE Excavations.
By tae Rev. Grevitte J. Cuuster
Moasite Stoxe
Siwat.. By tae Rev. F. Ww. ‘Hortaxp
TAGE
233
233
238
256
265
268
269
274
277
280
281
285
287
293
295
301
301
303
305
309
312
319
329
337°
388
410
438
472
496
513
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
———=
PAGE
Roprxson’s' ARCH, F : . ‘ is Frontispiece
Haram Arma, or Nosie SANCTUARY . 7 e “ 8
Sarr av S.E. ANGLE . : : we Gs P . - 85
HEsRAN 7 : * é . 7 : ; , - 44
Whison’s ARCH. F - : : 2 2 - 4%
Do. Do. (from tr racing) . J % & : - 8L
Caprvan or Pruaster F . 7 e A : . 89
Easrern Exp or Vautr . : : 7 7 : - 98
Voussom or Fannen ARCH . an 8s Fi : Z « 105
Base or CoLuMN . . ° : E . . 107
Lamp. . 7 7 : . ‘ < . 108
Sourn anp East Wann. 3 : é : : . 119
ANCIENT JAR. F : 7 : : : . - 140, 476
Ixcisep CHARACTERS 7 é Hs ‘ . . . - 142
etone C or Eastern Wan . : s ‘ é - >. 148
“Gatuery av S.E, AnciE ‘ : ‘ f ; . 7
ANcrenT MARKS oN HANDLES OF Vases . : : - 152, 474
GALLERY aT GoLpEn GaTE . . . . . 156
NEWLY-DISCOVERED PassacE in OLD Wan : 2 4 » 165
SECTION THROUGH Birger Isram . . . . - . 189
‘RIPLE GATE, . . . : - 230
“OcK-cUT PassaGE ABOVE 2 VinoM's Fourr . . . . 249
aock-cur Toma. : 7 : . . : . « 257
Doric CaritaL, Sitoam . 3 és . * ie . . 266
GeNNATH GATE. : * 5 ; 2 : . 274
Rock 1n Mousr Mortan é . é P : : - 298
MonumentaL Siap . . : : : - 802
JERUBALEM AT TIME oF Kine ‘Herop A : ¢ . - 803
Forp over THE JoRDAN . ‘ : ‘ ‘3 ‘ 7 - 835
xii , LIST OF TEU USE RATIONS:
3
Tae Lake or Gatiim ca tye
Tre. Hum ot ose
TEMPLE or HippaRryen .
TEMPLE OF THEETHATHA
AronrrEectore or Tux Hauray
Upper VALLEY OF THE JORDAN
VALLEY OF THE JorDaN.
VaLisy or SHECHEM
Four-Lippen Lamp.
Axcrent Dish *
Portion or Lark Jar . 2
Portion or Lance Jar. .
VasE FouND aT Brrxer Israu,
Porrer’s Mark. : “ 7 5
Porrer’s MaRK . |. é :
Lamps .
Tyscripep Lame : 5
Lamp.—Poon or BETHRSDA .
Giass Vase FRoM SEPULCHRAL Cave z “
Grass Lamp . . : - he . :
Stone Weianr. . 2 . . .
Seat or Haccar . F a e 2
SarcopHaaus . i oe :
Broxze CaNDLESTICK . ron oa
Sinar
Map oF Penixsuba or Sreat .
PAGE
337
842
397
898
424, 426
426
440
448
475
477
478
479
480
481
482
484
485
486
489
489
492
493
494
495
513
516
INTRODUCTION.
BY THE DEAN OF WESTMINSTER.
Tur Committee of the Palestine Exploration Fund
having done me the honour of asking me to write a
Preface to the collected papers of the Society, I
gladly comply, though not without a misgiving lest
I should do injustice to a subject.on which, full of
absorbing interest as it once was to me, and dear
as it :nust now be for its own sake, ag well as for the
memories of past years, I have been prevented by
the pressure of other occupations from bestowing the
continuous attention that it deserves.
It has seemed to me that the simplest and most
useful mode of introducing this volume to the public,
would be # point out in each essay what are the
most important additions to our knowledge—espe-
cially in the light of such hopes or anticipations as ©
I, in common with others, some fourteen years ago
ventured faintly to express.
I. The first and most. important of all the sites of
é
xiv INTRODUCTION.
Palestine; and that which occupies the largest por-
tion and furnishes the tifle of the following pages,
is the ancient city of Jerusalem.
When I -first visited Palestine in 1852, I felt
constrained to express: what has doubtless. occurred
to many others, that “when we pass from the com-
“ paratively secure knowledge of what may be called
“the external situation * of the city to its: internal
“ relations, we exchange a sphere of perfect certainty
“ for a mass of topographical controversy, unequalled
“ for its extent,-for its confusion, and for its bitter-
“ness, If the materials, however slight, on which
- “our judgment was to be formed were all before us,
“ it. might be worth while to attempt to unravel’ the
“entanglement. But the reverse is the case. The
“data exist, perhaps in abundance, but they are
* inaccessible. When Jerusalem can be excavated
‘we shall be able to agree; till then the dispute
“is for the most part as hopeless as was that, con-
* There is oné point in the external topography of Jorusalem,
in which Captain Warren has corrected an erroneous conclusion,
which I shared in company with most others who have written on
the subject. He has called attention to what I confess seems to me
so incontrovertible, that I wonder how it should s0 long have
escaped notice,—that the valley or ravine of Hinnom, instead of!
being confined, as it has been usually in modern times confined, to
the valley south of Jerusalem, includes, if it is not identica] with,
the glen of the Kedron east of the city. This appears to follow
beyond question from Jer. xix. 11; and it agrees, not only with the
Mussulman nomenclature, but with almost all the Biblical indica-
tions on the subject, and especially with the word Gz-hinnom.
INTRODUCTION. © xv
“ cerning the Roman Forum before ‘the discovery of
“ the pedestal of the column of ‘Phocas.”*
This hope has been fulfilled. At last the exca-
vations of Jerusalem have been begun, slowly and
gradually. indeed, but when these pages are read it
‘will probably be thought, as rapidly as the circum-
stances would permit. In the plain and unadorned
narrative of Captain Warren, the difficulties and
dangers of the undertaking might almogt escape
notice. Yet the perils will appear sufficiently great
_ to any one who draws out from the good-humoured
story the fact that these excavations were carried on
at the constant risk of life and limb to the bold
explorers. The whole series of their progress was
a succession of “lucky escapes” (p. 56). Huge
stones were day after day ready to fall, and some-
times did fall, on their heads (p. 248). One of the
explorers was “injured so severely that he could
“barely crawl out into the open air” (p. 86);
another extricated himself with difficulty, torn and
bleeding; while another was actually buried under
the ruins (p. 279). Sometimes they were almost
suffocated by the stifling heat; at other times they
were plunged for hours up to their necks in the
freezing waters of some subterranean torrent
(p. 241); sometimes blocked up by a falling mass,
‘without light or escape (p. 133). And these labours
* “Sinai and Palestine,” Chap. IEI.
eg OP
xvi " INTRODUCTION.
had to be carried on not with the assistance of those
on the spot, but in spite of the absurd obstacles
thrown in the way of work by that singular union
of craft, ignorance, and stupidity which can only be
found in Orientals—workmen who in “winter could
“never get the idea drummed into their heads
“that working would make them warm” (p. 71).
Turkish dignitaries believing that the sacred rock
lies on the top leaves of a palm-tree, from the
roots of which spring all the rivers of earth, and
with a ready pretence for evading every request *
(pp. 38, 41).
The readers of these pages will be compensated
by being thus enabled to form the acquaintance of
such good ‘and tried friends as Captain Warren and
his faithful Achates, Sergeant Birtles. We trust
that they are compensated by the results of their
labours.
To these I briefly turn.
1. The original stimulus to the whole undertaking
was supplied by the benevolent wish of Miss Burdett
Coutts to ascertain the best means of bringing water
to the thirsty city. The answer to this is given in
the excellent Ordnance Survey, accomplished under
the auspices of Captain Wilson, and the elaborate
* It is gratifying to find that the French archwologists seem
generously to have given their aid to the work (pp. 82, 201),
INTRODUCTION. xvii
description of thé ancient water supplies given by
Captain Warren (p. 233). It may be added that in
this investigation the interesting question of the sup-
posed spring inside the walls of Jerusalem and under ©
the Temple Courts has been for the first time followed
to the bottom; and the result appears to be, that
whilst there.is no actual spring within the walls,
the whole mount is so honeycombed with cisterns
(pp. 17-21), as to give ample materials for the conjec-
ture. of Tacitus, and for the imagery of Scripture,
whilst at the same time it takes away from them
the foundation of exact and literal truth.
2. The course of the ancient walls, on which hangs
the much disputed question of the possible authen-
ticity of the Holy Sepulchre, still remains unsolved ;
_or rather so much additional progress has been made
towards its solution, that as far as the excavations
have as yet gone, they disparage, rather than confirm,
the alleged proof that the walls excluded the site
from their compass, and therefore admitted of its
gcenuineness (p. 10).
3. The controversy respecting the Temple Area is
still sub judice; but whatever materials can be fur-
nished are set forth by Captain Warren in the most
impartial and unostentatious form (pp. 109, 171,
218, 309),
4. The external aspect of the ancient Jerusalem is
in two or three points brought out with new force.
xviii ' INTRODUCTION.
There a are some Spooks discovered of the for of
the ancient houses (p. 106).
There is also the astounding revelation of the
immense height of the Temple wall above the
Kedron Valley (p. 187).
5. Some approximation to the date of the walls
of the Temple has been made by the discovery of
the supposed Phoenician characters marked in red
paint on their surface (p. 138).
6. The interesting discovery by Dr. Robinson of
what he supposed to be the arch of the bridge, which.
later travellers: much contested, has now been defi-
nitely confirmed by the disclosure of its remaining
fragments (pp. 95-102).
7, The whole history of the cartography of Jeru-
salem. is for the first time clearly set forth, whilst it
has reached its best illustrations in the maps and
contours now for the first time published (pp. 28, 32).
It is impossible to conclude this brief statement of
ihe results of this part of the subject, without noting
the kindly and just appreciation of the three chief
explorers of the internal topography of Jerusalem,
Mr. Williams, Dr. Robinson, and. Mr. Fergusson
(p. 286). There still remains much te be done; the
Tombs of the Kings have yet to be found, as they
must be found, somewhere within the walls; the area
of the “Noble Sanctuary” has yet to be explored
thoroughly ; the exact course of the walls still to be
INTRODUOTION. xix
traced. But this must form the next act of, the
Society’s operations.
IL, Tn turning from the Holy City to the Holy
Land, the first region which attracts our attention is
the Lake of Gennesareth. It might have seemed that
nothing new remained to be told as to the general
aspect of the lake. Yet it may, I think, be truly
said, that there has been no account given at once so
accurate and so vivid, as that with which Captain
Wilson prefaces his narrgtive (p. 337). Nor, as far
as I am aware, has there ever been published by an
eye-witness a complete description of a storm on the
lake in illustration of the Gospel narrative (p. 340).
In speaking of the localities on the lake, I was
obliged, fourteen years ago, to say that, “ There is
“ nothing which enables us to fix with certainty the
“ precise spots of the history of our Saviour’s resi-
“ dence, Capernaum, Bethsaida, Chorazin.” *
It is too much perhaps’ to maintain that these
points have been fixed with certainty. But it may
be affirmed now positively that a far nearer approach
has been made than ever before.
1. As regards Capernaum, what may be aled
the intrinsic arguments in favour of Tel Hum had
been often urged ; and in recent years the recognition
of the remains of a Jewish Synagogue in the great
* © Sinai and Palestine,” Chap. X.
XX INTRODUCTION.
ruin,on that spot gave much additional interest to
the question. But what is new and, it seems to me,
almost decisive is the identification of the fountain at
Tabigah with the fountain of Capernaum by the
discovery that the track round the rock of Khan
Minyeh is an aqueduct carrying the waters of the
fountain into the plain of Gennesareth (p. 349),
This at once elevates the claims of Tel Hum to be
the ancient Capernaum to the very highest rank,
2. As regards Chorazin, the identification of it
with the ruins of Kerazeh had been slightly indicated
by others, -but here again it is substantiated more
firmly than heretofore. .
3.. The determination of these two sites naturally
leaves Khan Minyeh for the Western Bethsaida, © It
may be doubted, as Captain Wilson properly reminds
us, whether the MSS. allow of two places of that
name. But if there be a Western, as well as an
Kastern, Khan Minyeh offers a site.
4. There is another point on which it has been
extremely difficult to arrive at any fixed conclusion—
the scene of the demoniacs and the swine.
The difficulty is to find any spot with “a precipice ”
and “tombs” near the lake on the eastern side.
Mr. Hiliott and Lord Lindsay differ ‘in their printed
accounts from each other. Two. separate parties: of
British travellers, in 1861 and in 1863, in their
private accounts communicated to me, also differ from
INTRODUCTION. xxi
cach other, and
from the two published accounts.*
After this entanglement it would be rash to say
that Captain Wilson’s identification of the site
with the entrance of Wady Semakh (in which he
agrees with Dr. Thomson and Mr. Macgregor) is
likely to stand. But it must be taken as the most
careful that has been made (pp. 368, 369).
IL. The comparative absence of architectural re-
mains in Palestine is doubtless one reason why it is
difficult to regard the exploration of the Holy Land
with the same archeological interest which is excited
in respect to Greece, Rome, Asia Minor, and the
cities on the Tigris and Euphrates. Still there is
enough in the temples of “ the holy mountain” of
Tlermon, in the tombs of the valley of the Kedron,
in the recently discovered synagogues at Meiron and
Tel Hum, and in the-masonry of the walls of the
sanctuaries of Jerusalem and Hebron, to deserve a
complete investigation ; and towards this an. excellent
‘step is made in Mr. Spiers’ paper (p. 388).
IV. Count de Vogiie’s essay on the Hauran is the
most scientific account we possess in English of that
mysterious district. Its unfinished state and abrupt
conclusion give ita peculiar interest. There can have
been few concerned in the exploration of Palestine
who did not feel a thrill of sympathy, when, amidst
xxii INTRODUCTION.
the horrors of the carnage after the battle of Worth,
they came on the affecting narrative of the scene in
which the chivalrous Prussian Prince tenderly an-
nounced to the Count de Vogiié the sad tidings that
amongst the killed and wounded whom he came to
tend, the first body that he would find would be that
of his brother,
V. The Ordnance Survey of Palestine was so
obvious a duty for the English nation to undertake,
that it is needless to dwell on its importance. It
is therefore only right that this volume should
contain a narrative of the mode in which the work
was conducted by Lieutenant Anderson, “and some
“geometricians who could not easily fail of knowing
“the truth when they were sent to measure the
“ country” (to use the happy quotation from Josephus
prefixed to the chapter). Besides the interest of the
general narrative (pp. 438-471), it may be worth
while to call special attention to the remarks on
Dothan and Jacob’s Well (p. 463-465).
VI. The objects of pottery—described by Mr.
Chester—open a new sphere of sacred archeology
hitherto almost untouched ; the peculiarity of those
in the early Christian era seems well worth noticing.
VII. Of all the discoveries connected with the
Palestine Exploration Fund, that of the Moabite
Stone, if not the most important, is undoubtedly that
INTRODUCTION. xxiii
which has excited the keenest and most general in-
terest, and deservedly so.
1. It is the only inscription which has hitherto
been found reaching back to the age of the Jewish
monarchy.
2. It indicates the possibility—one might almost
say the certainty—that more such inscriptions might
be “liscovered, if only we had the means of searching
for them. It removes the disagreeable impression
; that, as no written record on stone had ever been
found, no such record had ever existed. Strange,
almost incredible as this seemed, when compared with
the acres of inscriptions (many of a much earlier
date) in Egypt—yet it was a not unnatural con-
clusion, until this unexpected discovery broke the
silence and dispelled the illusion.
3.. Whether or not the King of Moab who is
mentioned is the same “ Mesha” as the monarch of
whom we read in 2 Kings iii., he evidently belongs
to the same dynasty. The few indications that the
inscription contains of the state of Moab agree with
those contained in the Sacred Books.
4. Whatever may be the variations of. readings in
other parts of the inscription, there is an entire
agreement as to some of the most interesting parts.
The name of Mesha, the names of Chemosh and
Moloch, the name of Omri, the names of the various
‘“Moabite towris, above ‘all, the name of Jahveh or
xxiv INTRODUCTION.
Jehovah for the God of Israel—appear in both the
versions here presented to us.*
VIII. Amongst the chapters in this volume, the
one to which I feel individually called to bear the
strongest testimony of interest and satisfaction is that
on the explorations in the Peninsula of Sinai, by
Mr. Holland. “Is it possible,” I ventured’to ask in
1856, “to ascertain the route by which the Israelites
“ passed through the desert? . . . Can we be guided
“by tradition? ... Such a question can only be
“authoritatively answered by a traveller, who, with -
“complete knowledge of Arabic, has sifted and
“compared the various legends and stories of the
“ Peninsula.”+ “Hitherto no one traveller has
“ traversed more than one or at most two roads of
“the Desert; and thus the determination of the
“route of the Israelites has been obscured, first, by
“the tendency of every one to make the Israelites
“ follow his own track, and secondly, by his inability
“to institute a just comparison between the facilities
“or the difficulties which attend the routes that he
“has not seen. This obscurity will always exist till
“some competent traveller has explored the whole
* The essty on the Moabite Stone has the peculiar merit °
of giving not only the various versions of the inscription, but an *
exact account of the much disputed and much misunderstood
details of the discovery.
+ “Sinai and Palestine,” Chap. I., pp. 27, 33.
INTRODEOTION. xxv
“ Peninsula of Sinai.” Such a_ traveller has
happily been found—or rather two such travellers
have been found—one, the Rev. F. W. Holland,
writer of this.essay, the other Mr. E. H. Palmer, to
whose rare knowledge of Arabic Mr. Holland bears
full witness ; and the general results : are contained in
the closing pages of this volume.
It is with, I trust the pardonable gratification of
an old Sinaitic traveller, that I observe how this
elaborate investigation in almost every instance
confirms the conclusions at which I had arrived
after my hasty survey—always under the reserve
suggested by the probability that they might be
modified by a more complete rescarch. The spot of
the passage of the Red Sea (p. 526)—the course of
the Israelites by the Wady Useit and the Wady
Tayibeh (p. 529)—the identification of the Wilder-
ness of Sin with the plain of El Murkhah (p. 533)—
the identification of Rephidim with Feiran, and of
the sacred hill of Aaron and Hur* with the eminence
crowned by the ruins of Paran (pp. 535-537)—the
identification of the Ras Sufsifeh and the plain of
Rahah with the scene of the giving of the Law and
the Israelite encampment (pp. 520-523)—the general
failure of the ancient names—the probable change in
* In this instance Mr. Holland rather inclines against the
jdentification; but I am glad to find that my view—in the first
instanco suggested by the lamented Ritter—is adopted by Captain
Wilson, Captain Palmor, and Mr. Palmer.
xvi INTRODUCTION.
the resources of the wilderness (p. 541)—the com-
paratively modern date of the Sinaitic inscriptions—
all these points, which I had laid down as the nearest
approximations which I could make to the truth, have
now all been established, as far as they are likely
to be, by explorers who can speak with authority,
as the first who’ have traversed not one route only,
but every possible route in the Desert, and have scen
not one or two only, but every possible scene of
the great acts of the Exodus. Such a ratification
of what could at the time have been treated only
as conjecture, is the best reward that any traveller
can have; and I beg to tender my sincere thanks
to. the adventurous investigators who, at so much
risk to themselves, and with so much advan-
tage to Biblical lore, have been the first to pene-
trate into every nook and corner of those secluded
fastnesses; and, having qualified themselves to say
positively where the sacred events could not have
taken place, have been the first to be able to
say with authority where they probably did take
place.
With these words of gratitude I commend this
volume to the serious attention of all who care for
the additional light which sincere desire for truth
and ‘patient investigation can throw on the most
sacré of all books, on the most interesting of all
geographies. Much has been done, but much
INTRODUCTION. xxvii
remains to be done; and it is in order to stimulate
and insure the completion that this instalment is
given to the world. May that completion be worthy
of the beginning, worthy of the indefatigable zeal
and labour which first set on foot this new Crusade,
worthy of the Holy Land and the Holy History
which it is intended to illustrate and elucidate.
PART I.
JERUSALEM.
e
VIILT 27 3)
THE ORDNANCE SURVEY OF JERUSALEM.
1864-5,
BY CAPTAIN WILSON, R.E.
Earty in the year 1864 the sanitary state of
Jerusalem attracted considerable attention ; that city,
which the Psalmist had described as “beautiful for
situation, the joy of the whole earth,” had become one
of the most unhealthy places in the world, and the
chief reasons assigned for this melancholy change
were, the inferior quality of the water and the
presence of an enormous mass of rubbish which had
been accumulating for centurics. With the rubbish
it was hardly possible to deal, but the water supply
seemed an easier matter, and several schemes were
proposed for improving it, either by repairing the
ancient system, or by making new pools, cisterns,
and aqueducts. Before, however, any scheme could
be carried out, it was necessary to obtain an accurate
plan of the city, and with this view Miss Burdett
Coutts, a lady ever ready to promote good works,
placed a sum of 500/. in the hands of a committee of
gentlemen interested in Jerusalem.
The committee requested Lord de Grey, ther
B2
4 HECQVERY: OF JERUSALEM.
Secretary of State for War, to Allow a survey to be
made by a party of Royal Engineers from the Ordnance
Survey under the direction of Sir Henry James, and
obtained a favourable answer. It was, however, stipu-
lated that an officer should accompany the party, and
that Government should be put to no expense.
Thad always had a strong wish to visit Jerusalem
and Palestine, and when Sir Henry James was kind
enough to offer me the command of the small party,
I gladly availed myself of an oportunity which might
never occur again, and accepted the conditions on
which the appointment was made. These were that
I was not to receive any remuneration for my
services, and was to bear the cost of my own travel-
ling and personal expenses, which amounted even-
tually to between 300/, and 400J.
On our return to England, the cost of publication
was defrayed by a grant of 500/. from the Treasury,
a sum which has since been more than repaid -by the
large sale of plans, photographs, &e.
On the 12th of September, 1864, we* left South-
ampton amidst the cheers and good wishes of the
numerous friends who had come to wish us “ good-bye,”
and after a pleasant voyage reached Jaffa on the 30th
of September, and Jerusalem on the 3rd of October.
On first catching sight of Jerusalem, I must confess
to having experienced a keen feeling of disappéint-
ment, which did not pass away for some days. ‘We
had travelled up from Ramleh during the night, i
* The party consisted of myself, Sergeant (now Sergeant-Major)
McDonald, and Corporals Ferris, McKeith, Davidson, and Wishart,
of the Royal Engineers, from the Ordnance Survey.
DIFFICULTIES MET. 5
and on our way had been looking forward to the
moment when we should see the grey walls, the
mosques and minarets of the Holy City ; but, instead
of these, the first object that met our eyes was the
unsightly pile of buildings which the Russians had
recently erected outside the north-west angle of the
walls. ; ‘
Before leaving England many doubted the success
of any attempt to make a close, contoured survey of
a city in which there was sucha large Moslem popula-
tion. We found, however, that the difficulties had
been exaggerated, and though, at first, the inhabi-
tants looked upon us with suspicion, thinking we had
‘some ulterior design, they soon became accustomed to
our presence, and we were able to say, on leaving
Jerusalem after a residence of ten months, that we
had accomplished our object without having had a
difficulty or dispute with any one. This happy
result was due in great measure to our confining
ourselves entirely to the work of the survey, to the
prompt weekly payments made to those we employed,
and to the active support received on all occasions
from Mr. Moore, the British Consul, and from the
Pacha of Jerusalem. I must not forget to mention
also the assistance so kindly given by the learned
Prussian Consul, Dr. Rosen; by Dr. Chaplin, and
Mr. Schick, who frequently accompanied me in my
subterranean explorations ; by Dr. Sandreczki,to whom
I owe the nomenclature of the city ; and lastly, by two
‘kind friends in England, who supplied me with the
funds necessary to make those tentative excavations
which were attended with so much success.
6 ‘RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
Before entering into any details, it will be necessary
‘to lay before those of our readers who are not familiar
with the subject a slight sketch of the topography of
the Holy City. :
Jerusalem is emphatically a mountain city. The
Bible teems with allusions to this peculiarity in
its situation, Built on the very backbone of the
country, the summit of that long ridge which
traverses Palestine from north to south, and only
approached by wild mountain roads, the position of °
the city was one of great natural strength, and this
gave the inhabitants that feeling of security from
hostile attack which seems to be implied by the
‘Psalmist in. the well-known verse, “ As the mountains |
are round about Jerusalem so is the Lord round bout
his people.” The modern city stands, as the ancient
one did before it, onthe southern extremity of a spur
or plateau enclosed by two ravines, which bear the
familiar names of Kedron and Hinnom. --The ravines
rise at the watershed within a short distance of each
other, at an altitude of 2650 feet above the Mediter-
-ranean ; ‘the easternmost, the valley of Kedron or
Jehoshaphat, runs eastward for 1} mile, and then
makes a sharp bend ‘to the south; the westernmost, —
the valley of Hinnom, after following a direction,
nearly south for 1} mile, turns to the east, and passing -
through a deep gorge joins the Kedron at Bir Eyab,
‘a deep well south of the city. Both ravines are, at
first mere depressions of the ground, but after the
change in their respective courses they fall more
rapidly, and at Bir Eyab are 670 feet below the ori-
ginal starting-point. A third ravine, the Tyropeeon
BIRKET ISRAIL
ie oN |
‘|| PLAN OF THE NOBLE SANCTUARY
SHEWING THE NesOure ie} THE RESEAR'
Capt, ne so: 5 “eer E
: . i §
DESCRIPTION OF THE CITY. 9
square of 600 feet at the south-western corner of the
same place. It is still uncertain which ‘of these two
views is correct, and the question can hardly be
definitely settled till excavations are made within the
Haram walls. On one point all are agreed, that the
magnificent triple cloister, the Stoa Basilica, builé by
Herod, stood on the top of the southern wall, and the
appearance of this when perfect must have been
grander than anything we know of elsewhere. It is
almost impossible to realise the effect which would
be produced by a building longer and higher than
York Cathedral, standing on a solid mass of masonry
almost equal in height to the tallest of our church
“spires; and to this we must add the dazzling white-
ness of stone fresh from the mason’s hands.
The western hill is thickly covered. with houses,
except on the west, where there is an open space
occupied by the gardens of the Armenian Convent.
At the north-west corner is the citadel with its three
towers, representing probably those built by Herod
the Great, and adjoining them on the south are the
barracks of the Turkish garrison. One of the
towers, that known as the Tower of, David, stands
on a mass of solid masonry, decidedly Herodian in
character, and its dimensions agree well with those of
the tower Phasaelus, as given by Josephus ; another,
which now protects the Jaffa Gate, is smaller,
and may perhaps be identified with the tower
Hippicus, as on an examination of an ancient cistern
benéath, the remains of an aqueduct were found
which formerly brought water jnto the city at that
point. . ; .
10 - RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
_ Along the northern side of the hill a street, runs
from the Jaffa Gate on the west- to the Sanctuary
on the east, following apparently the course of a
small Jateral. branch of the Tyropwon Valley,
North of this line stretches the Christian quarter of
the town, rising gradually to the north-west, till it
reaches the corner of the modern wall at Kalat Jalid,
a ruined castle, supposed by some writers to be the
tower Psephinus of Josephus. Nearly in the centre
of this quarter lies the Church of the Holy Sepulchre,
which is said to contain within its walls the Tomb of
our Lord. At the time of the Crucifixion the
Sepulchre was without the walls, now it is well
withjn them. Some writers explain this by saying
that after Constantine built his Church of the
Resurrection, the town spread out and surrounded it,
whilst others are equally certain that the present site
must have been within the limits of the ancient city,
and that we must look elsewhere for the Sepulchre
and even for the church built by Constantine. The
solution of this difficult question depends on the
course of the second wall which surrounded the city ;
if it ran to the east of the church, there is no reason
why the present tradition should not be correct; if it
ran to the west, the tradition must be wrong. Up to
the present time no one has seen any portion of this
wall; the point from which it started and that at’
which it ended are alike unknown. It was, however,
ascertained during the progress of the survey, that the
old arch near the south end of the bazaars, called the
Gate Gennath, was a comparatively recent building,
and that the ruins near the Church of. the Holy
DESCRIPTION OF THE CITY. 11
Sepulchre, which had been pointed out as fragments
of the second wall, were really portions of a church.
_ There is in addition a fourth hill north of the
Sanctuary, and rising 100 feet above it, which ap-
parently corresponds to the Bezetha of Josephus. It
‘is now principally occupied by Moslem houses, but.
the, Sceurs de Sion have built a convent on its |
northern slope, and on its western face are the
British and Austrian Consulates. Immediately to the
éast of this bill is a small valley, which falls into the
‘Kedron about 100 yards south of St. Stephen's Gate ;
on its left bank stands the church of St. Anne, and
in its bed has been formed the traditional pool of
Bethesda, called in the most ancient MSS. of the
New Testament Bethzatha, a name not unlike that
of the fourth hill, Bezetha.
It is hardly possible, in a short paper like the
present, to give any detailed description of the
ancient buildings and traditional localities within
and around Jerusalem. The two places of greatest +
interest are the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and
the Sanctuary, and as most of Captain Warren’s
excavations have been made in the immediate vicinity
of the latter, I propose confining myself to a few
remarks on its natural and artificial topographical
features.* ;
‘Phe Sanctuary, or Haram Area, has a general
* In the notes which accompany the Ordnance Survey of Jern-
salem are notices of most of the public buildings, including the
Church of the Holy Sepulchre. I have not touched on the subject
here, as the church has often been described, and the only additional
information obtained during the survey was that the courtyard in
front of the south door is supported “by vaults.
12 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
elevation of 2419 feet above the Mediterranean, and
‘its surface is almost level, if we except the raised
platform in the centre, a deep hollow in front of the
Golden Gate, and a slight rise towards the north-
west corner. It has been formed by cutting the rock
away in some places, by building supporting vaults
in others, and by filling in hollows with large stones
and rubbish.
The North-East Corner appears to be formed’ by
filling up a portion of the valley which has been
described above, as running down between the
church of St, Anne, and the fourth hill Bezetha, and
much of this has been done since the erection of the
Golden Gate, for the northern side of that building
is covered by a mass of rubbish 26 feet high. Until
the survey was made this valley had attracted little
attention, though it was always a well marked natural
feature, and the pool of Bethesda and the pools which
formerly existed to the west and south of the church
of St. Anne were made in its bed. The accumulation
of rubbish was, however, so great that the exact point
at which it joined the Kedron could not then be
ascertained. I was under the impression that its
mouth lay between St. Stephen’s Gate and the north-
east tower of the Haram, believing that this portion
of the wall stood on a dam made to retain the waters
of the pool, but Captain Warren’s excavations have
shown that it was some distance to the south, and
that the pool of Bethesda was made across the valley,
and not in the direction of its length. This makes
the depth of rubbish in the north-east angle of the
te Uk oe Cy Ses eT re, (anc, ee ores go
THE HARAM AREA. 1B
interesting to discover of what it is composed, or
whether the ravine is not partly arched over by a
series of vaults.
In the North-West Corner the natural rock is
either visible or slightly covered with earth over
some extent of ground, and the surface has been arti-
ficially formed by.cutting down the rock under the
Turkish Barracks to a depth of, at one point, 23 feet,
and then entirely removing the upper strata as far as
the north-west angle of the raised platform, where the
rock is scarped and rises nearly to the level of the pave-
ment, Between the corner and the platform the ridge
of Moriah must have been in one place very narrow ;
and here, as Captain Warren points out, the rock
gives place to turf, and there are other indications
which would lead us to believe that there was at one
time a ditch cut in the solid rock.
A. little north-west of the barracks, on ground
belonging to the Convent of the Sceurs de Sion, is
an escarpment in the rock facing south, and from this
asubterranean passage, discovered by Signor Pierotti,
runs under the so-called Via Dolorosa, and abuts on
an escarpment facing north. The passage appears
to have been made to protect or conceal the transit of
troops across a broad ditch cut through the narrow
neck of land which separates the small eastern valley
from the Tyropceon which runs through thecity. It
may also have protected an aqueduct entering the
Sanctuary, as at its southern end a curious rock-
hewn passage was fotind. The actual course of this
ditch, which isolated the spur of Mount Moriah, has
not yet been traced, and is one of the points to
14 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
which the attention of future explorers should be
directed.
On the raised platform in the centre of the area
stands the beautiful Dome of the Rock, Kubbet.
es-Sakhra, built over the sacred rock from which
Mahomet is said to have ascended into heaven. Much
has been written on the isolated position of this rock,
and its elevation above the general level of the Sanc-
tuary, as if there were something extraordinary in it,
but if the pavement of the platform were removed and
the ground restored to its original form, it would have
no remarkable prominence. The cave beneath the
rock is similar to others in the neighbourhood of the
city; it may have been enlarged, but any marks of
chiselling on the sides are now concealed by a thick
coat of plaster. The circular opening in the roof of the
cave looks like the mouth of a cistern, but it has not
the usual marks left by the draw ropes; it is some-
what similar in character to the openings often
found in the vestibules of tombs. No trace could be
found of any drains connecting the Bir el Arwah
beneath the cave with the fountain of the Virgin and
Siloam ; the system of drainage given by De Vogiié
in his “Temple de Jérusalem,” on the authority of
Pierotti, is purely imaginary, and has no existence’ on
the ground, :
At the South-East Corner the level surface is
formed by the vaults known as Solomon’s Stables,’ ”
the age of which has been the subject of much
dispute. In their present state they are certainly a
reconstruction, one of the piers be*ng formed of an
old lintel, and others of weather-worn stones taken
THE HARAM AREA. 15
from the walls, and this is also shown by the manner
in which the vaulting joins an immense mass of
rubble masonry at the south-east angle. The vaults
vary in width and eplay outwards towards the north,
so as to cover the increased space caused by the
direction of the eastern wall of the Sanctuary, which
leaves the southern one at an angle of 92° 50’,
Near the South-West Corner of the enclosure I was
fortunate enough to make an important discovery in
connection with the Gate of Mahomet (Barclay’s
Gate) and the Mosque of El Burak, beneath the Bab
el Maghiribe. Barclay’s Gate and the western por-
tion of the Mosque of Burak, to which it formerly
gave access, have generally been considered frag-
ments of one of those approaches which Josephus
describes as leading from the western side of the
Temple to the suburbs of the city. The eastern
portion of the mosque is, however, comparatively
modern, and it was always a question how the ascent
to the level of the area above was managed ; this has
now been settled by my finding a continuation of the
ancient passage in a cistern to the east of the Bab el
Magharibe. From Barclay’s Gate it ran for 69 feet in
a diréetion perpendicular to the western wall of the
Sanctuary to a chamber covered by a well-built dome,
ard at this point turned at right angles to the south.
‘fue first section of the passage from the wall to the
- domed chamber had a level floor, the ascent to-the
Sanctuary being in the southern branch. Whether
this was by a ramp or flight of steps cannot be known
‘without excavation, as the floor is covered by over
20 feet of rubbish. The arch which covers this last
16 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
section has a raking springing, which rises to the south
at about one in twenty; a slope which would bring
the passage to the surface in the Stoa Basilica, Herod’s
grand cloister, opposite Robinson’s Arch. This
arrangement of the passage, which is so different
from the long straight ramp leading from the Double
Gate to the Sanctuary, was rendered necessary either
by an abrupt rise in the rock to the east, or by the
presence of buildings above, which it was necessary to
avoid.
Whilst the survey was going on, I was very much
struck with an account given by Dr. Tobler of a visit
which he had paid to a large pool, called El Burak,
north of the Wailing Place, and outside the wall of
the area, It seemed to offer great facilities for an
‘examination of the wall, and I determined to try and
trace it as far north as possible. On visiting the pool
and lighting it up with magnesium wire, I found
that it was partly covered by an arch, built with
stones of great size, but without mortar, and hating
a span of 42 feet. The arch, which Sir Henry James
has called after my name, is one of the most perfect
and magnificent remains in Jerusalem, and its age, is
probably the same as that of the Sanctuary Wall at
the Wailing Place. I was at the time under the im-
pression that the arch connected the Sanctuary witha
causeway across the T'yropceon Valley, but Captain
Warren’s excavations have since shown that there
were a series of arches forming a viaduct which led
up towards the palace of Herod on the western hill.
We tried to break through a wall at the north end of
the pool, hoping to follow the great wall of the Sanc-
THE HARAM AREA. 17.
tary beyond it; but not having a supply of mining
tools, failed to penetrate more than a few feet.
Near the Bab el Mathara of the Sanctuary a
cistern was visited, which, like that east of Barclay’s
Gate, appears to have been an aucient approachto the
area, as it pierces the great wall and is perpendicular
to it. The covering arch, though not built with such
large stones as Wilson’s Arch, has every appearance
of being Roman masonry.
One of the peculiar features of the Sanctuary is
that the ground is perfectly honeycombed with a
series of remarkable rock-hewn cisterns, in which the
water, brought by an aqueduct from Solomon’s Pools,
near Bethlehem, was stored. Some of the cisterns
are formed by, as it were, mining out the soft rock
(melekeh), and leaving a roof of the hard rock
(mezzeh) which lies above it ; whilst others are made
by making an open excavation like a tank, and then
arching it over with masonry. The former. are
certainly the most ancient, apparently having been
made before the arch came into common use for
covering large openings; and it is a curious fact
that no large eisterns of this kind are found in the
Sanctuary north of the Dome of the Rock. The
cisterns appear to have been connected’by a system
of channels cut out of the rock; so that when oie
was full the surplus water ran into the next, and so
on till the final overflow was carried off by a channel”:
into the Kedron. One of the cisterns, that known
as the Great Sea, would contain’ two million
gallons; and the total number of gallons which
could be stored probably exceeded ten millions,
c
18 RECO VERY OF JER URALEM:
' Some of the exeavationd are eet 25 is 50 feet i in
height, and their form is in certain cases so peculiar
that we can scarcely doubt they were originally
made for some other purpose. I would especially
call attention to a long cruciform cistern at the
south-east angle of the raised platform, and to one a
few yards south of it, which has a large chamber
raised 4 or 5 feet above the general level of the
bottom. Whether these were connected with the
Temple service, and, if so, in what manner, it is
hardly possible to say without removing the plaster
with which they are now thickly covered,
The age of that portion of the wall of the
Sanctuary which is visible above ground varies at
different points; and for a full description of it I
must refer my readers to the notes on the Ordnance :
Survey. ;
Along the western wall of the Sanctuary runs the
‘depression of the Tyropeon Valley—a ravine of great
depth, now filled with rubbish, A. descent of a well
near the Sanctuary, the Hammam esh-Shefa, in which
we found the natural rock 80 feet below the present
surface, enabled us to form some idea of the depth of
the valley, and the height of the wall of the Sanctuary
at that point ; and in an excavation made in search
of the pier of Robinson’s Arch, near the south-west
angle, we found no rock at a depth of more than
40 feet. In this excavation we came down directly
on the top of the pier; but, having no. means of
keeping the loose rubbish back, the Arab workmen
beeame frightened and refused to go on; and, to our
wreant. renwrat woe hed 4 fT] wn tha AG noendine
THE WATER. SUPPLY. 19
Captain Warren was afterwards. more successful ;
and, with the aid of mining-frames, was able to. get
to the bottom of the pier, and thence push on to is
wall, and make those remarkable discoveries which
ava attracted so much attention.
As the survey originated in a desire to provide
’ Jerusalem with a better and more ample supply of
- water than it has at present, a sketch of the ancient
and modern systems may be interesting.
The ancient supply appears to have been obtained
from springs, wells, the collection of rain in pools
and cisterns, and water brought from a distance by
aqueducts.. The extensive remains of cisterns, pools
and aqueducts show that little dependence was placed
on any natural springs existing in or near the city ;
and, indeed, from the formation of the ground it is
doubtful whether any existed besides the Fountain of
the Virgin in the Kedron Valley. There may have
been a source in the Tyropwon Valley; but it could
only have been a small and not very lasting one.
The only well known at present is Bir Eytb, a
little below the junction of the Kedron and Hinnom
Valleys; but others may possibly exist in the city
and neighbourhood, which have been accidentally
closed by rubbish, or purposely stopped during
some siege, and never reopened. This well, which
has a depth of 125 feet, is still, in summer, one
of the principal sources of supply. The water is
collected in a large rock-hewn chamber, and is
derived from the drainage of the two valleys and
their offshoots. The supply is directly dependent on
the rainfall; and in winter, after from three to five
c2
66 loz
20 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
consecutive days’ rain, the water rises above the shaft,
and flows down the valley in a stream, The well
has been deepened at some period, as at a depth of
118 feet there is a large chamber, from the bottom of
which a shaft, 12 feet deep, leads to the present
collector. There is a great quantity of rubbish in
the valley; and in constructing the well the idea
seems to have been to stop out the surface-drainage
which might be charged with impurities from the
city, and depend entirely on the water running in
between the lower layers of limestone. The well
might be greatly improved by enlarging and freshly
cementing the collecting-chamber, as at present a
large quantity of water is lost, and some arrangement
of a public nature might be made for raising the
water and conveying it to the city. This is now in
the hands of the fellahin of Silwan (Siloam), who
_ charge from one penny to sixpence per goat-skin for
water delivered in the city, and are much addicted to
cheating by partly filling the skins with air. The
water of Bir Eyib has that peculiar taste which
arises from the surface-drainage of the city being
imperfectly stopped out.
There are a number of cisterns in the city which
may almost be called wells, as, besides receiving the
drainage from the houses, there is a constant infiltra-
tion of water going on between the limestone strata.
They are not a very fertile source of supply, but,
even in the driest summer, give three or four
buekectsful between sunset and sunrise. These
cisterns appear to be of very great antiquity, and
have been formed by sinking deep shafts through the
THE WATER SUPPLY. a1
rock, and then making a bottle or retort-shaped
excavation at the bottom to act as collector.
The pools of which remains exist are the Birket
Mamilla, Birket es-Sultan, two pools of Siloam,
Birket Sitti Miriam, and a pool near the Tombs of
the Kings outside the city ; and the so-called pools of
Hezekiah and Bethesda within, besides three, of the
existence of which there is an undoubted tradition,
one near the Jaffa Gate, one near the Gate of the.
Chain of the Sanctuary, and a third near the church
of St. Anne.
The Birket Mamilla is still in use; it collects the
surface-drainage of the upper part of the valley of
Hinnom, and transmits its water to the pool of
Hezekiah by a conduit which passes under the city
wall a little north of the Jaffa Gate, and has a branch
running down to supply the cisterns of the citadel.
The average depth of the pool is 19 feet; but there
is a large accumulation of rubbish at the bottom,
and it now holds water imperfectly. It is closely
surrounded on all sides by the tombs of a large
Moslem cemetery ; and, as all the water collected
passes through these, it is hardly fit for drinking.
About 38 feet below the lower end of the pool there
is an ingenious arrangement for regulating the flow
of water to the city.
The Birket es-Sultan lies in the valley of Hinnom,
and at so low a level that its waters could only have
been used for the irrigation of any gardens which
may have existed lower down thg valley. The pool
does not now hold water; it is of considerable size,
and has been formed by building a solid dam across
22 RECO VERY OF JERUSALEM.
the valley ; the upper ead is closed by a anal
embankment. The two pools of Siloam are at the
bottom of the Tyropeon Valley, and were probably
made for the irrigation of the gardens below. They
derive their supply partly from surface-drainage, and
partly from the Fountain of the Virgin, the water of
which is brought to them by a subterranean channel.
The Birket Sitti Miriam, near St. Stephen’s Gate,
is of no great size. It is, however, peculiar from its
position, which is such that it can receive little or no
surface-water, and its supply must therefore have
been brought by an aqueduct. It appears to be
more modern than the others, and still holds a little
water. ;
The pool to the left of the north road, a little
beyond the Tombs of the Kings, is now nearly filled
with soil, washed down by the winter rains; but
there is still at one: end a shallow excavation which
holds water after heavy rains. This must have been
the largest pool in the neighbourhood of the city,
and is admirably s'tuated for collecting the surface-
water of the upper branches of the Kedron. It is
yet uncertain how its water was brought into
Jerusalem.
The pool of Bethesda (Birket Israil) lies in the
valley which runs past St. Anne’s Church ; but the -
drainage of this is not sufficient to supply such a
large tank, and it must have been fed from some
other source. Though partly filled with rubbish, it
still has a depth af 40 feet; it is out of repair, and
does not now hold water.
The pool of Hezekiah receives its supply from the
THE WATER SUPPLY. 23
Birket Mamilla. It is in bad repair, but holds a
certain amount of water. The bottom is covered
with a thick deposit of vegetable mould, the accumu-
lation of several years; and in one corner there is
“a large open cess-pit of so foul a description that it
could not be approached.
Little information could be gained regarding the
other pools, which are now completely filled with
rubbish.
The cisterns of Jerusalem may be divided into four
classes, of which the oldest are the small retort-shaped
ones described above; the second are those excavations
with roofs of natural rock, of which the “ Great Sea,” in
front of the Mosque El Aksa, isa good specimen. The
third class are those in which the rock has been cut
down perpendicularly and an arch thrown over the
excavation, as in those near the Golden Gateway.
The fourth class are the modern ones, built in the
rubbish, and supplied entirely by rain collected on the
roofs and terraces of the houses.
Water was brought into the city by two aqueducts,
the “ low level” and the “ high level,” but the course of
the former can alone be traced within the walls of the
city. It crosses the valley of Hinnom a little above
the Birket es-Sultan, and winding round the southern
slope of the modern Sion, enters the city near the
Jewish almshouses; it then passes along the eastern
side of the same hill, and runs over the causeway and
Wilson’s Arch to the Sanctuary. The numerous
Saracenic fountains in the lower part of the city
appear to have been supplied by pipes branching off
from the main, but the pipes are now destroyed, and
24 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
the fountains themselves are used as receptacles for
the refuse of the town. This aqueduct derived its
supply from the pools of Solomon, Ain‘Etan, and a
reservoir in Wady Arfb, and still carries water as
far as Bethlehem; its total length is over 40. miles, °
not far short of the length of the aqueduct which
Josephus tells us was made by Pontius Pilate,
The pools of Solomon near the head of Wady Urtas
are: three in number; they receive the surface-
drainage of the ground above them and the water of
a fine spring known as the Sealed Fountain. The
pools have been made by building solid dams of
masonry across the valley, and are so arranged that
the water from each of the upper ones can be run off
into the one immediately below it. The lower pool is
¢onstructed in & peculiar manner, which appears to
indicate that it was sometimes used as an amphi-
theatre for naval displays; there are several tiers of
‘seats with steps leading down to them, and the lower
portion of the pool, which is much deeper than the
upper, could be filled with water by a conduit from one
of the other reservoirs. .
The “high level aqueduct,” called by the Arabs that
of the Unbelievers, is one of the most remarkable works
in Palestine. The water was collected in a rock-
hewn tunnel four miles long, beneath the bed of Wady
Byar, a valley on the road to Hebron, and thence
carried by an aqueduct above the head of the upper
‘pool of Solomon, where it tapped the waters of the
Sealed Fountain. From this point it wound along
the hills above the valley of Urtas to the vicinity of
Bethlehem, where it crossed the watershed, and then
FHE WATER SUPPLY. 25°
passed over the valley at Rachel’s Tomb by an inverted
‘stone syphon, which was first brought to notice by
Mr. Macneill, who made an examination of the water
supply for .the Syria Improvement Committee.
The tubular portion is formed by large perforated
blocks of stone set in a mass of rubble masonry ; the
tube is 15 inches in diameter, and the joints, which
appear to have been ground, are put together with an
extremely hard cement. The last trace of this
aqueduct is seen on the plain of Rephaim, at which
point its elevation is sufficient to deliver water at the
Jaffa Gate, and so supply the upper portion of the
city; but the point at which it entered has'never been
discovered, unless it is connected in some way with an
aqueduct which was found between the Russian
convent and the north-west corner of the city wall.
The present supply of water is almost entirely
dependent on the collection of the winter rainfall,
which is much less than has generally been supposed,
as, by a strange mistake, the rain-gauge was formerly
read four times higher than it should have been.
According to Dr. Chaplin’s observations, the average
rainfall during the years 1860-64 was 19-86 inches,
the maximum being 22°975 inches and minimum
15-0 inches. ;
In addition to Bir Eyttb, which has been described
above, the inhabitants drawwwater from the Fountain
of the Virgin and the Hammam esh-Shefa. The
former gives a constant though small supply at all -
times, and at intervals the water rises with some
‘force and runs down through a rock-hewn passage to
Siloam. These intermittent flows appear to be
26 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
dependent on the rainfall ; in winter there are from
three to five flows per diem, in summer two, later on
in the autumn only one, and after a failure of the
early rains, but once in three or four days. The tdste
of the water is decidedly unpleasant and slightly salt,
arising from its having filtered down through the
mass of rubbish and filth on which the city stands.
The well Hammam esh-Shefa is in the old cotton
market close to the Sanctuary ; its supply is not very
large, and the quality of its water is inferior.
There is said to be a spring in the passage beneath
the Convent of the Sceurs de Sion, but the water has
a most unpleasant taste, owing to the presence of a
large body of sewage, which is only separated from
it by a heap of loose rubbish.
There are several good springs at some little distance
from Jerusalem, but the cost of transport is so great
that the water can only be used by the rich, and it
lies at too low a level to be brought in by pipes or
aqueducts.
The principal dependence of the inhabitants is on
the cisterns, which receive the rain collected on the
roofs and terraces of their houses, Those cisterns which
have lately been built by Europeans in convents and
dwelling-houses are good, and, being carefully cleaned
out once a year, always keep the water sweet, but it is
far otherwise in the native houses. When ras |
commences to fall, every effort is made to collect as_
much.as possible, all the channels are thrown open,
and through these the summer’s accumulation of
rubbish is carried into the cisterns below ; water is
even collected from the streets, and the state they are
THE CISTERNS. Q7
in at the end of the dry season is almost too filthy for
description. During early summer little evil arises
from using the water of these cisterns, the heavier
particles settling to the hottom ; towards autumn, how-
ever, the water gets low, the buckets in descending
stir up the deposit, and the mixture which thousands
then have to use as their daily beverage is too horrible
to think of. It is at this time that a miasma appears
to rise from the refuse, and that the fever season
commences. It is difficult to obtain statistical infor-
mation in Jerusalem, but one fact alone will show the
anhealthy nature of the city: the Jewish population
is estimated at about 9000, yet in twelve months more
than 13,000 cases of sickness were attended to in their
own hospital and that of the Protestant Mission.
Much relief might be obtained by the adoption of a
few simple sanitary precautions ; every cistern should
be well cleaned once a year and the refuse removed
to a distance, instead of being thrown in front of the
door to be carried back to the cistern by the first,
shower. The roofs and terraces of the houses should
be well swept, and the water from them made to pass
through wire-gauze or some simple filtering apparatus
before entering the cistern.
Intimately connected with the water supply is the
drainage of the city, of which it is hardly too much
fo say that there is none, Those drains which exist
are little more than cess-pits, and, except after heavy
rain, there is no discharge from the mouth of the
present main. Few cities have more facilities for
good drainage than Jerusalem, and it seems formerly
to have been as well managed as the water supply,
28 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
the mouth of the main drain being in the valley of
‘the Kedron, where the sewage was probably used
as manure for the gardens. This old drain is still
perfect for more than 700 feet, and might be made use
of in any new system of drainage. The great difficulty
in the way of any improvement is the enormous
quantity of sewage which is now collected in the
rubbish beneath the town, and which, if opened ‘or
disturbed, would probably give rise to an epidemic.
Captain Warren will give a full description of the
recent discoveries in the city, and I will only add in
conclusion a brief sketch of the progress of Jerusalem
cartography to the present date. ‘The earliest plan
known is that made by Arculf towards the end of the
seventh century ; it gives the city in both plan and ele-
vation, and shows six gates, two on the west side, three
on the east, and one (St. Stephen’s Gate) on the north.
In the next. plan, dating from the twelfth century,
the city wall is represented by a. circle, and the
interior is divided into four equal parts by two streets
running from north to south and east to west. The
buildings in each quarter are given in relief, and we
easily recognise the Dome of the Rock, Mosque of
El Aksa, church of St. Anne, Church of the Sepulchre,
and Tower of David. There are five ‘gates, one
apparently leading from the Haram Agea-,to the
Kedron Valley; the Gate of St. Stephen is on, the
north side, and just outside it is a fine basilica
dedicated to the first martyr.
Early in the. fourteenth century Marinus Sanutus .
published his map, which is a great improvement on
the earlier ones. An attempt is made to give the
; EARLY PLANS. 29
outhine of the walls and the direction of the streets
cofrectly, and it has not been altogether unsuccessful.
The most interesting feature in this plan is a
certain Fons Sion, outside the walls and close to the
Tower of David, said to be one of the springs which
‘King Hezekiah closed after leading the water to the
Tower of David, and thence to the pool north of the
church of St. Anne. It appears to me that in this
tradition we have a hint of the point at which the
“high level aqueduct” from Bethlehem entered the
city ; this aqueduct has. never been seen nearer than
the plain of Rephaim (so-called); but, supposing it
to enter at the Tower of David, it would pass thence
through the passage beneath the English Mission
premises, and over Wilson’s Arch to the Haram, and
so on to the pool north of St. Anne’s Church.
Between the fourteenth and nineteenth centuries
a vast number of plans were made, but the authors
appear to have paid more attention to an enumeration
of the traditional sites than to a correct. representation
of the ground and network of streets. In 1818,
however, Sieber visited Jerusalem, and his plan,
though exceedingly incorrect, is the turning-point in
Jerusalem eartography. Henceforward we find a’
steady progress in the ground plans of the city and
delineation. of the hill features.
In 1833 Mr. Catherwood visited Jerusalem, and
was able to make a correct plan of the Haram Area
and the buildings within it; unfortunately his plans
were made in detached pieces, and in joining them
together afterwards an error was made at the north-
-west angle of the area, which is much to be regretted,
30 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
as otherwise his plan is minutely accurate. In 1838
Dr. Robinson published a plan compiled from the
surveys of Sieber and Catherwood, which is decidedly~
in advance of those which preceded it, and this was
shortly followed by the plans of Schultz and Willams.
In 1849 appeared the plans of Aldrich and Symons,
of Dr. Tobler and Gadow; the first of these, made
by Lieutenants Aldrich and Symons, R.E., in 1841,
after the conclusion of the Syrian war, is extremely
correct as far. as regards the direction of the’ walls
and the delineation of the ground outside the city ;
but in the interior there are many errors, especially
in the neighbourhood of the sacred area,
Dr. Tobler makes many additions to and corrections
in previous plans, and his work and that of Symons
enabled Thrupp, in 1855, and Robinson, in 1856, to
bring out plans of still greater accuracy. In 1856
also. appeared Barclay’s Plan, which gives many
additional details; but all previous plans were eclipsed
by the excellent one constructed by Van de Velde
from the measurements of Symons and Tobler, and
published, with a valuable memoir,* by Dr. Tobler
in 1858. This, on which great care and labour was
bestowed, was up to the date of the publication of
the Ordnance Survey in 1866, the most faithful plan
of the Holy City. It only remains to notice two
works which appeared in 1864, those of Pierotti and
De Vogiié. Of the former it is impossible to speak
in too severe terms, for he has introduced into his
-plan of the Haram Area a system of cisterns and
* To this memoir I owe the details given above; it is an admi-
rable résumé of the progress of Jerusalem cartography.
PIEROTTI’S STATEMENTS. 31
subterranean channels which have no existence in
reality, and has thus misled many students of
Jerusalem topography, amongst others De Vogiié,
who has copied the errors on to his own plan.
It is quite certain that Pierotti never visited the
cisterns he professes to describe, as in one place,
at the south-east angle of the Mosque Platform he
represents as a small circular excavation the large
cruciform cistern, which is one of the curiosities of
the Haram, and in another he shows in a similar
manner the interesting cistern near Barclay’s Gate-
way, which is in reality one of the approaches to
the Temple of Herod. Even the subterranean
passage under the convent of the Sceurs de Sion,
discovered by himself, is so incorrectly drawn that
it is quite certain he never went to the end of it,
for two enormous scwers are shown which have
no existence ; a chamber is added on to the south,
where there is nothing but solid rock, and the curious
rock-hewn passage at the southern end discovered
by myself, and afterwards explored to its end by
Captain Warren, is not noticed, though 7 or
8 feet high. I have entered into Pierotti’s case
rather fully, as there are many in England who still
believe in his statements. De Vogiié’s beautiful
work is confined to the Haram Area, and is chiefly
architectural. He adopts Catherwood’s ground plan
of the whole area, but gives in addition plans of
some of the vaults and passages on a larger scale,
and more correctly than previous authors. The
Ordnance Survey Plans of Jerusalem were surveyed
and drawn on the same scale, and with the same
32 "RECO VERY OF JERUSALEM.
accuracy as oh eaastval or aepaviah plans of England,
which are probably known to most of our reader : é
and special plans on a still larger scale were made
of fhe Haram Area, and the principal churches and
public buildings. The following is a list of them :—
ee “Plan of Jerusalem and vicinity, with the hills shaded :—
Scale $55, or 6°33 inches to a mile.
2, Plan of J. oa with streets, buildings, and contours :—
Scale aBao or 25-34 inches to a mile, “
3. Plan of Hamm ésh-Sherif, with cisterns, vaults, and con-
tours :-—
» Scale s}y, or 10: 56 fect toa mile,
4. Phang of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and Dome of the
Rock :—
Scale yy. :
5. Plans of the Citadef, David’s Tomb, churches of St. Anne,
St. James, the Ascension, the Tomb of the Virgin, the
Flagellation, &e.:—
Seale 545.
EXCAVATIONS AT JERUSALEM.
BY CAPTAIN WARREN, REL
Db
CHAPTER T.
DIFFICULTIES MET WITH.
UR steamer found its way into the open road-
stead of Jaffa on the afternoon of Feb. 15th,
1867, and the captain, who had predicted all the
morning that we should be carried on to Beyrout
on account of the storminess of the weather, now
finally decided that we might land.
\ Our party consisted of Corporal Phillips, photo-
~ Sie grapher, Corporal Birtles, in charge of excavations,
Pag 2nd Corporal Hancock, sent out to complete the
Ordnance Survey. Our stores were exceedingly
cumbrous, and consisted of an assortment of crow-
bars, jumpers, jacks, handspikes, blocks, wheels, é&c.,
packed in small boxes for mule or camel load.
One large box, however, there was which proved
the greatest nuisance, for it had nearly overturned
ay
WHEL.
ee — ee a
36 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
our shore boat at Alexandria, and finally it had to be
opened and its contents distributed, for no camel could
carry it. It having come with us at all was through
the good-natured interference of the man from whom
the stores were bought; for he had proper sizes of the
boxes sent down to him for packing the tools in, but
he came somehow to the conclusion that a large box
would suit us better, and when his mistake was
discovered it was too late to be remedied. We had
also boxes containing theodolites, sextants, &., and
the custom-house authorities pronounced they were
warlike stores, until Mr. Habib Kayat, the Vice-Consul,
undertook to vouch for their being of a peaceful
nature and not liable to go off.
We left Mr. Kayat’s hospitable abode on 16th
February, passing the night at Ramleh, and started
next morning at 4 a.m. A most furious piercing
cold wind was blowing, the strongest wind I
have ‘met with, and we crept along like snails; our
mules on several occasions were blown over,
and- on the road behind us a little later was
‘g mournful spectacle—a party of our American
friends, a gentleman and his daughter, both blown
off their horses and unable to mount again until they
rolled along to the lee-side of a guard-house out of
the wind. We were thirteen hours getting up to
Jerusalem, over a distance of about twenty-four
iniles, which can now be ridden easily in four hours ;
but at that time the road was not commenced, and
we were delayed a good deal in picking up our fallen
animals, ;
On arrival at Jerusalem, I lost no time in pre-
THE MILITARY PACHA. 37
senting myself to the British Consul, Mr. Moore, with
whom I went to call upon his Excellency Izzet
Pacha, the Governor of Jerusalem, who said that no
vizierial letter had come, but that pending its arrival
he would give me authority for digging anywhere
except actually in the interior of the Sanctuary,
We immediately.commenced work alongside the
Sanctuary wall to south; but in four days the work
was stopped on the representation of the military
Pacha, who asserted that if we dug near the wall we
should bring it down. (This wall we afterwards
examined jn all its parts.)
T asked the Consul if he would call again with me,
and show to the Pacha that we were not likely to
do any damage; but hé explained that it would
be far better if I took all those arrangements
upon myself, as the Pacha might acquiesce if asked
in a private manner, when he would take umbrage
at being asked by the Consul. I accordingly called
on the Pacha, who said we had better wait for the
vizierial letter, which arrived at the end of the week.
Unfortunately, by the confusion between Hebron and
Jerusalem it expressly excluded the Noble Sanctuary,
and I was advised not to present it.
T next paid a visit to the military Pacha, and spoke
* about the security of the walls where we had been
excavating; but it was evident that he had only
made use of that asa means of stopping us, and he
assured me it was perfectly absurd for us to come
_ and dig about Jerusalem when the Moslem traditions
gave every information. He then proceeded to
explain to me the whole structure of the Noble
38 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
Sanctuary, winding up with the information that
the sacred rock, the Sakhra, lies on the top leaves of
a palm-tree, from the roots of which spring all the
rivers of the earth, and that the attempt of a Frank
to pry into such matters could only be attended by
some dire calamity befalling the country. The old
gentleman was extremely civil, and asked me to
come some day and see him inspect the troops; but
whenever I wanted him to fix a day he would always
pitch upon Sunday, though there were other days
when they were brought out. He did not return my
visit for some months, but was always apologising for
not doing so; and at last a friend who knew him told
me that that was his way of proceeding, and that he
did not intend to call unless obliged to do so, A few
days after this I saw him in one of the narrow streets,
standing and admiring his horse with some. of his
people about, and it appeared to be a good oppor-
tunity for passing between them without recognising
him. The next morning I received a message from
him asking me if I would be at home that day, and
he paid me his long-deferred visit in the afternoon,
and was most agreeable. We were very good friends
after this, but he could not influence affairs much
now either way.
In March I went into the Jordan Valley for a
month, and on my return I found Nazif Pacha had
yeplaced Izzet as Governor, and that he had already
attempted to stop the works twice during my absence.
The first time he sent for Sergeant Birtles, and said
that he had no business to work at all; but he was
shown that Izzet Pacha had given.me leave. He
OBIRCTIONS ARE MADE. 39
next tried to res ‘the work on the: pretext that we
were digging in a cemetery, but found that he had
been too ready to give ear to false reports. He
stopped our work near the Damascus Gate before we
had finished, and gave an order that we were not to
dig nearer than 40 feet to any of the city walls or
the Sanctuary. I had.a long list of places for ex-
‘cavating in, and as fast as he stopped us at one
point we went off to another, in hopes of wearing off
his excessive zeal in time; butit soon became evident
that he was a very different stamp of man to the
previous Governor, and that our work appeared’ to
offend him. .
It is true that I was furnished with a vizierial
letter, instructing the authorities to afford to me “the
necessary facilities in respect of the object of the
mission, and permission and all possible facilities to
dig and inspect places after satisfying the owners,”
but then the letter went on to add, “with the ex-
ception of {the Noble Sanctuary and the various
Moslem and Christian shrines.” So wide an exception
afforded an. excuse for constant interference with our
work afterwards; and a confusion, real or assumed,
between the Sanctuary at Jerusalem, and the far
more jealously guarded Sanctuary at Hebron, led to
further annoyances.
I was anxious to make an examination of the latter
mosque, and after some little demur his Excellency
promised to write a letter’ giving me authority
to enter every part of the mosque, and accord-
ingly we set out on the 24th of May, 1867, ac-
companied by a Lieutenant and four zaptis, On
40 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
arrival at Hobie I sent word to the Modir of our.
object, and he at once asked me-to join him at
a dinner out in’a vineyard, where some friends
were to be present. The feast consisted chiefly of a
sheep roasted whole, and would have been pleasant
enough had not I been in the seat of honour, and
plagued by the Modir and Judge wishing to stuff
little titbits of fat, plucked out with. their fingers,
down my unwilling throat. Although we- were,
with three exceptions, ali Moslems, yet I found, to
my astonishment, that I was expected to bring wine,
and still more so that one of the Moslems intended, to
drink it. It seemed rather a gtrong measure in a
city considered to be one of the most fanatical ; but
then the man, [ suppose, made the matter easy by
Singing a little hymn before each gulp, thus turning
the wine into water, or otherwise altering its con-
dition by acting asa charm. This occurred at noon,
and in the evening the Modir coming to dine with me,
I felt somewhat averse to offérng him anything but
water. He, however, very soon asked if I had any
peppermint-water, as his stomach was sick. I had
none, so he wanted something strong, and brandy
would just suit him: he shortly made a large hole in
the bottle, and talked -ontinuously about what he
would show me in the mosque, asked how many day «
we would require to be in it photographing, and-
whether we would give him copies of the tombs, &e.
Everything appeared to be most easy. I was very
_ anxious te get rid of him, as I had an attack of fever
‘on me, and did not enjoy his company. At last I felt
-sure he would have to be earried off if he remained
A VISIT TO HEBRON. 41
uel longer, and 1 told ig ‘ape: to teat hin away,
and he was,eased along between two, with a third
behind to help if necessary. Next day, in the
morning, I went with my zaptis to the serai to
present the letter. I found the streets lined with.
soldiers, and everything got ready for our visit to the
mosque, but on reading the letter, the Modir’s
assurance at, once appeared to leave him, and he
hecame very’scrious. We went off in state to the
inosque, and entering at the south-west gate, went
up as far as visitors are allowed to go, and then
the Modir began to linger, and on turning the corner
I saw before us a closed door. He now began to
make apologies’ that 3t could not be opened to-day,
&c.; but finding they were not taken in, he said we
must go round by the other door; so we entered at*
the north-west entrance, and on our right I saw an
iron door on the level of the street, which I believe
would lead into the cave of Machpelah; this they said
had not been opened for six hundred years. On
getting to the top of the steps we wore again stopped
by a closed door, and the key was not forthcoming.
I refused to go away, and eventually the Judge was
sent for, who read the letter attentively, and said
that it was so written as to mit all the responsibility
of showing the mosque upon, the Modir, so that if the
people made any row about it the Modir would be in
fault, This [ afterwards found to be the case;and
after considerable delay it was arranged that should
be taken round the mosque, and be allowed to look in
at the. tombs of Abraham, &c., but not to goin, I°
had therefore but the small satisfaction of looking in_,
42 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
through a hole in the door, and could go no further.
My impression is that the bakshish offered would
have prevailed had I then had Jerius for a dragoman ;
but at this time I had a very inferior style of man,
having only arrived in Jerusalem after the season
had commenced. Had I also been free from fever I
might have gained entrance by sitting down at the
door for several hours, and refusing to go unless I
was allowed inside or was dragged away by violence,
but [ was unable to continue at the work more than
five hours.
On leaving Hebron I wrote to tell the acting
Consul of the manner in which I had been served; _
but the Pacha denied it, and said that I had not only
visited the tombs, but had tried.to get into the cave
of Machpelah itself. I returned.to J erusalem on the
29th of June, after a month in the plain of Philistia,
and at once called upon the Pacha with reference to
the Hebron difficulty.” The Lieutenant of Zaptis
was called in, and the Pacha warned him he must
speak the truth, on which he fell down on his knees
and swore he would say exactly what occurred, and
immediately began an account of what ought to have
oceurred—how we were taken all over the mosque,
and how I had been perfectly satisfied. I felt rather
indignant, and having brought Mr. Fergusson’s plan
of the mosque in my pocket, showed the Pacha where
T had been ; but the officer, who stated he had been
with Mr, Fergusson, said that 1 had been into every
place he had been in. “ But,” I said, “ Mr, Fergusson
was in here and saw the monuments.” “ And you were
there too,” replied the Licutenant. “ But I was not
TOMB OF MACHPELAH. 43
there, and only could look in éhrough: a hole i in the
door,” T replied. “ Ah, then, Mr. Fergusson was not
there ;” and so we went on, until, I saw the Pacha had
made up his mind that I had seen everything which
Mr. Fergusson’ had seen, and that the officer’s state-
ment was perfectly satisfactory. I wished very
much to get the matter sifted before witnesses ; but I
could gét no action taken at the Consulate, and the
Lieutenant of Zaptis was moved immediately from
Jerusalem. I cannot help feeling that the manner in
which the Pacha was allowed to bring this man’s
evidence to weigh against mine was very detrimental .
to our future operations; at the same time I could do
nothing more than protest against it, for I could not
bring evidence to show that I had not been taken
into every place Mr. Fergusson had, except the book
and plan. A few weeks after I met my friend the
Modir in the Sanctuary, and again wanted to bring
the matter forward with him as a witness, but could
get no action taken. The Pacha only said he was
quite sure I had seen the mosque, and that if I
wanted to see it a second time, I must get a special
letter from the Porte. A ‘special letter, however,
would have been of nouse with this Pacha, for they
nearly always end up with “ provided you see no
objection,” and he always did manage to see an
objection.
Lhave omitted to say that the Modir of Hebron,
after drinking so much brandy in my tent, sent to me
a message the morning I left his city to ask me if I
would let him have a bottle of the vinegar he had
found so good the other evening. I thought it
44 RECOVERY. OF JERUSALEM.
might have been called-by some more pleasant name,
‘and sent back-word.that-I was sorry Thad not a, full
bottle, and enclosed half a bottle of real: vinegar.
. On'my return to Jertsalem’ at thé end of June,
1867, I found the Pacha ‘still putting difficulties in
‘our way ;- but we were fast approaching the close of
the first: scene in the drama, and after that I.expected
we should ‘be able. to get.on better. “My idea was as
follows: the Pacha strictly’ prohibited “our working
nearer to the. walls than 40° feet; but he was quite
-unaware of our powers of mining, and felé. quite safe
‘so long as we were not néar-the wall above ground. ,
My. object :then. was, to“ commence «at, the requited:
‘distance, and: mine tp to the-wall, obtain the necessary
inforniation; publish it, and then when it was known
at Constantinople, to-commence again on the surface’
about :20 feet off, and if stopped to protést. on. the:
plea that we had’ ‘already been ‘up to the wall; that’ it
was known atthe Porte, and. that the eustom ‘was
established... ‘At the’ same time I was urging on the:
authorities at. home .the necessity of getting a: more
favourable vizierial. letter, if we were to work without
hindrance... ;
-InJuly w6-got-up-to the Sanctuary wall at the
south-east angle, and having examined it, the account
was sent Home; pending its publication I went
down along the western shotes of the Dead Sea, and
afterwards crossing over the Jordan, I examined the
‘country of Gilead, during which time photographs
were taken: of subjects which were hitherto almost
unknown,” among ethers the spring head of the,/
Waters of Hesban; which may perhaps be taken ay;
7 aE : ——E =—_ E a
HESBAN, =~ e : a ts To face page 44, :
THE AUTHORITIES MOLEST US. 46
a representation of the head of the brook: awiaol ran
through the midst of the land in the early days of
Jerusalem.
On 10th September, 1867, an opportunity presented
itself for. bringing his Excellency to book ; and the
result of the interview was that I was enabled to
continue our work until early in the following year
without molestation.
When our men were working at the newly-
discovered aqueduct near the Cvenaculum, some
soldiers came and told them to leave .off work; and
when they refused, they threatened to whip them,
and abused the Frank who directed them, calling me
a “pig.” When'I heard of this I went with the con-
sular ‘cavass (the acting Consul being ill in bed)
to the Pacha, and told him about it. He said I must
“produce the soldiers; but I said I had no power to
detain them, and I considered that all that was
necessary for me to do was to relate the facts, so that
he thight find out the culprits. After good deal of
“ tenting about the buch, I pressed the matter on him,
ad he sent a cavass with my interpreter to look for
the soldiers. In the afternoon I heard that Sergeant
Birtles had been made prisoner, and was being
marched to the serai. I immediately went, and
obtained the dragoman and cavass of. the Consulate,
and went up to the Pacha. I asked him if it was by
hi,. orders that Sergeant Birtles had been made
5 .isoner ; he replied that he had released him. I asked
“him if it had been done with his orders; and then
commenced an excited conversation for an hour ; but it
always returned to the same point: either it was
46 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
done with his authority, and in that case I should :
report the matter home, or else # was without his
authority, and if so, he must say so in writing, so
that L might give a copy to Sergeant Birtles to show
to anybody he wished. His Excellency tried all
manner of means of getting out of this; when I first
entered he had treated me extremely coldly, and had
not offered ine a chair, but I sat down in that next to
him; then he got a man to talk Arabic to one of my —
witnesses, to try and confuse his evidence; but I
refused to allow him to speak except through the
proper interpreter, and then he got up and said he
had an engagement ; but I kept in my seat, and said
I would wait until he returned, Finding I would not
give way, he offered me the first civility I had
experienced at: his hands since his arrival—he sent for
chibouks and comfits, and we smoked away for half
an hour, talking on indifferent subjects. I must
remark here that he had never before offered me any
thing but a cigarette; and I was not aware of the
Afference nntil Lhedbeonin Tory
when I saw that the foreign Consuls -were given .
chibouks. I then inquired, and found that the prac-
tice of giving a cigarette is a sign of entertaining
an inferior. I complained to the Acting Consul, but
he gave a very good reason for his preferring a
cigarette himself, viz., that they were cleaner.
The Pacha had now given me the chibouk, and I
was careful in all my after visits to refuse the
cigarette, and look uneasy until the chibouk
arrived. After having smoked for some time his
Excellency again asked me if I were not satisfied 3 but
foe OULU 11011 Letom
CONFERENCE WITH THE PACHA. 47
I returned to the charge, and said aT canst have z
written paper of explanation. He then summoned up
the cavass who had imprisoned Sergeant Birtles, and
sentencing him to imprisonment in my presence,
asked if I were satisfied. I said that was his affair; all
I wanted was a paper written by him saying that a
mistake had been made which I might give to
Sergeant Birtles. It took another two hours before
he would give in; but finally he said he would write
one that afternoon. I wanted him very much to write
it on the spot, but saw he would not go so far, and
eventually had to content myself with a promise that
it should be sent to me that evening. It was,
however, several days before the letter was written,
and not until I had sent several times to the Consulate
on the subject, and at last had written to say that I
was sorry to find the Pacha could not keep to his
word, and that I should take other steps.
Scrgeant Birtles acted admirably in the matter ; he
understood what I wished to a nicety. He was on the |
works when the cavass came to imprison the work-
men ; but he said that the workmen were under him,
and he could not let them be interfered with. The
cavass said then he should imprison Sergeant Birtles,
and did so, though he was warned that he was a British
subject. Sergeant Birtles walked with him through
the streets when my dragoman met them, and again
the cavass was told he was doing wrong, but he said he
knew what he was about. On arriving at the serai, one
of the officers took him up in triumph to the Town
Major, who at once saw what an error had been
committed, and said Sergeant Birtles might go; but
48 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
‘Bergeant Birtles very properly said he had been
‘imprisoned, and would not be reledsed until I
arrived. The Pacha then sent for him twice, first
told him, and then begged him to go away; but he
declined very respectfully to do so until I had come
to release him myself.
Tt was of the utmost consequence to our progress
that this matter should have been settled as it. was;
for had the Pacha once established his right to send
and take our men off the work without first applying
to me, we should have had them continually in a
state of alarm ; as it was I guaranteed their safety for
anything I ordered them to do, as I considered I
could safely do so.
After this affair we had very little trouble for
some months; and we gradually approached the
Sanctuary wall, and finally worked alongside it, and
the Pacha made no open opposition, for he was
‘somewhat taken aback by the result of his last
exploit, and he also was trying to open negotiations
with me with regard to the road then being con-
structed from Jerusalem to Jaffa. -
In.January I found that an intrigue was going on.
I must premise that our system of excavating was to
employ the tenants of the ground, and to pay them
for any damage done to their crops, and also to give
the landlords presents for the privilege of digging in
their soil. A certain class, however, officials of the
Turkish Government, endeavoured to extort backshish
by bringing pressure to bear against us, with a view
to being bought off. Had I given way, it would have
been as well to have closed the works at once ; it
INTRIGUES AMONG THE EFFENDIS. 49
would have been necessary to fee all the officials
employed, who would again, after the custom of the
country, have-expected money from the fandowners,
and these again would have recouped themselves at
ourexpense, When they found that I would not give
way, all kinds of difficulties were thrown i in our path;
Effendis were sent without notice to inspect our work,
our workmen were tampered with, a message from
the Pacha was communicated to me through the Con-
sulate to the effect that I must get his permission
before commencing any shaft, a step which led to a
long and unsatisfactory correspondence. However,
firmness carried the day, and having protested, on _
behalf of the Committee, against any change in the
manner of conducting the works, I commenced them
again on April 2nd, 1868. Corporals Duncan and
Hanson having arrived for service at Jerusalem,
Sergeant Birtles was sent home for the recovery of
his health, it having suffered from the effects of the
trying circumstances under which we were placed,
when endeavouring to keep up supplies and medicine
at our camp, to the east of Jordan, ninety miles
from Jerusalem by the nearest road, where one of
our party was ill with fever. ;
In April I found it would be necessary to explain
personally to the Committee the real difficulties which
attended our work at Jerusalem; and, active opposition
having again ceased for a season, I made arrange-
ments for work to be carried on at Ophel during my
absence—where there could not possibly be any
objection—and Dr. Chaplin having very kindly
undertaken to superintend the work, I left Jaffa on
E ,
50 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
May 15th, 1868, arriving in England on 26th, and
met the Committee ; when I learnt that the British
Ambassador had already been written to for a more
favourable vizierial letter. I then stated that an
expenditure of 350d. per month would be the least
sum which I considered would be sufficient for carry-
ing on the work; and it was settled that that sum
should be paid to me, and that a draftsman and more
overseers should follow ine, together with Sergeant
Birtles, I left England on June 13th with my
family, and arrived at Jerusalem on 30th, having been
away just six weeks,
Shortly before my departure from Jerusalem the
Commander-in-Chief of the Mediterranean Fleet, Lord
Clarence Paget, had been there, and having seen our
works, and explained to the Pacha the necessity of
his helping us, he also very kindly promised to ask the
Governor-General of Syria to write to the Pacha on
the subject. On my return I learnt that he had not
been able to see the Governor-General, in consequence
of some alteration in his plans. Nevertheless the
presence of our fleet along the coast, the influx of our
sailors and marines into Jerusalem, and the opinion
of the British Admiral, not only had their effect upon
the people, but to a certain extent influenced the
Pacha himself; and I now continued our work as
formerly without any active opposition.
In July another vizierial letter was received, but it
only enforced the former one; and at the same time
the Consul wrote to tell me that the Ambassador
regretted to find it was not possible to obtain any-
thing more liberal in its bearing. However, I was
LACK OF FUNDS. 51
then working alongside the Sanctuary wall, with the
tacit sanction of the Pacha, and had as much work as
I could get through. Fever now began to attack
us; and on the 10th of August Corporal Duncan
succumbed, and was buried in the British Cemetery.
He was an excellent fellow, exactly suited to the
work we had in hand, and his loss was doubly to be
regretted.
Sergeant Birtles arrived in August, and four non-
commissioned officers as overseers on the 10th of
September; and towards the end of the month
Corporal Hanson, who had also suffered somewhat
from fever, was sent home.
Corporal Turner was very quickly attacked with
inflammatory fever, and the works were stopped, for
the other three corporals had to attend him. Sergeant
Birtles also had avery severe attack; and at times
during the months of September and October we were
all ill except the three non-commissioned officers,
After a very narrow escape, Corporal Turner was
invalided home in November, and our works were
resumed; and I became on very friendly terms with
the Pacha, who sent deputies now and then to
examine our works, and he appeared quite content to
let us dig along the Sanctuary wall.
In November I received intimation that on account
of the lack of funds the expenditure must be reducdit
to 2002. per month all told.
A certain Effendi now began to intrigue and put
difficulties in our way, on the pretence that our
mining operations were interfering with Mahometan
tamhe and that our shafts were danwerous to wav-
82 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
farers. A long correspondence ensued, but in spite
of this and other difficulties the work progressed.
I also wrote to the Pacha, and requested he would
pay me avisit, as he had never been to see me, After
a good deal of opposition he agreed todoso. He saw
a sewing machine, for the first time, in my house,
and was intensely delighted with it, and took a piece
of cloth I sewed for him off to his hareem.
In May, on account of the various difficulties, I
wrote to the Ambassador, asking for a more liberal
- vizierial letter ; but he replied (July 12th, 1869) that
the Porte had declined to give one, and had refused to
entertain the request made for me to pursue my in-
vestigations in the Noble Sanctuary.
In June, 1869, a royal firmaun (Appendix), signed
by the Sultan, arrived, which altogether dashed
our hopes, for it still further restricted my liberty,
and after-this I did not consider it right to attempt
to dig in the Sanctuary.
In March, 1869, a demand was made by the Local
- Government on account of alleged damages to a
house of the Wacouf, or custodian of mosque pro-
perty, near the Gennath Gate.
I found it was. of no use endeavouring to show to
the Government that the rents were all of ancient
date, and proposed that an architect should be sent
‘on each side to decide the matter. M. Cesar Daly,
the eminent French architect, happened to be at
Jerusalem at the time, and I asked him if he would
goon my part. He said he had only two days to
spare, which he intended to devote to a journey to
the Dead Sea; but, on learning the circumstances of
the case, he most generously insisted on giving up
this visit, and going through with the matter. The
Government sent on their behalf the town architect
and some members of the Mejelis.
I cannot resist availing myself of this opportunity
of expressing my gratitude to M. Daly for his
generous self-denial in giving up his own pursuits
in order to render me assistance; his intervention
saved the Society from an iniquitous attempt at
extortion, for he demonstrated clearly that the
damage was not attributable to our excavations.
I was under the impression that now the demand
would be withdrawn ; but no; the Government
said that the’ opinion of one architect was as good as
another ; and so the matter was left.
I then pressed the Consul to ask that it should be
decided by arbitration between the reports of the
two; but he said that as we had the last word it was
better to leave the matter at rest. I was very
strongly. averse to such an arrangement, and de-
clined to dig any more near houses until it should
be settled.
In a few weeks there was another demand, now
reduced to 30/.; but I refused to give anything, as
the damage was not our doing, An Effendi was
then sent to me from the Pacha to ask what I would
give. I replied that if the Pacha wrote to acknow-
ledge that the damage was not done by us, a present
would -be given to the mosque of 51, in order to
cement our friendship.
Corporal Ellis was now attacked with inflamma-
tory fever, and was invalided.
54 _ RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
. June, 1869.—On leaving for the Lebanon the Con-
sul desired me to leave 304. to his credit, for the pur-
pose of paying the Pacha, should the matter be decided
against us; and I asked him to take charge of the
affair altogether, as I was sure the Committee would
willingly acquiesce in any arrangement he should make.
To my great mortification, I found, on my return in
November, that nothing had been done. I now
pressed again for a settlement, and in February,
1870, the Turkish Government at last proposed
M. Schick as umpire. I agreed to this, provided that
M. Schick arbitrated between the reports of the two
architects. He inspected the house (April 6th),
and decided that cracks in the wall had not been
caused by our operations.
I-now thought that everything would be settled ;
but, just before finally leaving Jerusalem, the Consul
advised me to pay 15. to the Government, the half
of the demand. I requested a letter embodying this
advice, but he did not think it was necessary; and
so I left an order on the banker for 152. and left
the matter entirely in the Consul’s hands.
Meanwhile, Corporal Cock had a severe attack
of fever, and he was at once invalided home for
fear of a relapse.
Corporal McKenzie had a violent attack of fever
while I was down at Jaffa, arranging for our
departure. This was a matter of some alarm; but
Dr. Chaplin was on the spot in time to relieve it.
To Dr. Chaplin’s care and attention we owe the lives
of the whole party; nor was this the only service
rendered by him to our party. From first to last he
RETURN TO ENGLAND. 55
attended them when ill, and this work was no
sinecure, without fee; and he was ever ready to give
a helping hand to our operations, either by super-
intending them during my own temporary absence,
or by using his influence with the people of the place.
Nor should I omit to acknowledge the assistance and
countenance afforded to me by others of influence and °
position in the country, such as Mr. G, Jackson
Eldridge, our Consul-General at Beyrout, the foreign
Consuls generally, the leading members of the Greek
and Latin churches, the Chief Rabbis, and many of
the leading Moslems, and the English and German
residents in Jerusalem. I have to thank them not
only for the moral support afforded by their manifest
interest in our work, but for many services from
time to time rendered to us.
We left Jaffa April 13th, arriving in England
April 30th, 1870.
56 aa RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
CHAPTER II.
METHOD OF MINING ADOPTED.
Tue system adopted in excavating at Jerusalem was ;
that ordinarily used in military mining ; therefore it is
unnecessary to describe the details, as these can be
obtained in any book of reference.
The work was one of considerable danger, for we
were frequently subject to being blown up by the
loose shingle which in an instant would destroy our
galleries; to being smashed by the large pieces of —
‘masonry which lay huddled together above us,
loosely lying one over the other, cand ready to coll
lapse at the slightest movement beneath them; or
else to having our skulls stove in by the stones and
iron bars which the fellahin, in their anxiety to be
smart, occasionally allowed to fall back on us from
the mouth of the shafts.
Although great precautions were taken to provide
against accidents, especially during the last year,
when one seemed almost due, yet it does appear that
our extraordinary immunity from loss of life was
owing in a great measure to what would be
generally called a chapter of. lucky escapes; for on
several occasions the time of accidents happened to.
IMMUNITY FROM ACCIDENTS. > 57
coincide with moments when the men were drawn
away from those portions of the works where they
occurred, and thus in some cases the result was simply
a logs of time and money, in others the places had to
be abandoned.
It. was during the first fifteen months that we ran
the greatest risks, for then Sergeant Birtles and I
were alone; we were very inadequately supplied
with stores from England, and at the same time were
being urged to the utmost of our powers, During
that. time we sunk partially-unsheeted shafts through
soils whose treacherous nature only by degrees be-
came known to us; and I have considerable reluctance
“in looking back upon those few months, when by
necessity we were obliged to overstep the bounds of
caution, and appeared to be courting destruction.
At that time so little was known of the ground,
about the Noble Sanctuary that each step we took was’
expected ‘to yield some wonderful information, and
the enthusiasm among the Frank residents and
visitors was unbounded. ‘The. chances also of our
being stopped at any moment by the Pacha were so
great that we had no time to wait and think. I think’
it very fortunate that it was Sergeant Birtles I had
with, me at that time; we had served together since
the year in which we both entered the army; we
perfectly understood each other, and I knew that all
tay instructions would be carried out implicitly, and
that everything left to him would be done well.
When I asked him if he were willing to come with
me to Palestine, he saidshe would go with me any-
where; and I think it due to his merit to say that, if
&8 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM,
my ten years’ experience of his worth had not enabled
me to be certain of*his acting exactly as I required, |
I should lave felt it necessary on more than one
‘eccasion to pack up hastily and retire from the field ;
for there were times when a little divergence from
the instructions would have enabled Nazif Pacha to
have got the upper hand, and to have stopped our
work entirely at Jerusalem,
I have so often been asked by visitors at J itealenl
whether they could not walk down our shafts without
giving us the trouble of going with them, that I
think some explanation is required.
They were simply square pits sunk in the ground,
from 50 to 100 feet in depth, and sheeted round with
wood, to keep the earth from falling in. Had the
soil been firm and natural, there would have been no
great difficulty about this; but we were working in
the débris of ancient cities, where the shingle is
found to run like water, and the great masses of cut -
stone will crunch up a mining case in a trice.
This débris is difficult to describe. On the rock,
pretty nearly all over the city, there is found from
2 to 4 feet of a very firm rich mould, filled with
potsherds and the remains of lamps for burning fat.
These are the oldest lamps found; but yet, strange to
say, they are very nearly similar to the fat-lamps
used in the present day about the country among ime
natives. So much for Eastern custom.
Above this clay mould are successive layers of
~gtone .chippings, not long chips, but cubical or
nearly hemispherical, and we have generally termed
it shingle. Between these are broken stones: of
CHARACTER OF SUBSOIL. 59
2 to 6 inches cube, or great lumps of .broken cut
stone, and sometimes, by good luck, a layer of fat
earth, about 1 to 3 feet thick. In the city, and .
along the Tyropcon Valley within the walls, the
water percolating through has deposited enough
mud to prevent the shingle being altogether without
cohesion, and it would generally stand while we put
in our frames; but outside, and especially on the
east side of the Kedron Valley, it is found altogether
without a particle of earth, in layers, sometimes
20 feet deep; and here work was most dangerous,
and if it were not for the rare presence here and
there of a layer of fat earth, under whose protection
we ventured to burrow, we could never have reached
the wall of the north-east angle.
Both within and without, but more particularly in
the Tyropeon Valley within, the soil is impregnated
with- some poisonous matter, probably very ancient
sewage ; and whenever we scraped skin off our hands, ~
instead of healing up at once the wound would
sicken, and in a few days fester up; so that when
_we were first working at Robinson’s Arch, above
the pavement, our hands were continually sore;
but below the pavement the earth appeared to be
sound, It was generally in the aqueducts that we
found the lamps and beautiful glass vases, which got
unfortynately broken for the most part in coming
home; and“in the soil itself the pottery was nearly all
broken, so that nothing was distinguishable except :
the handles; but such solid things as stone weights,
&c., were found. Persons have often wondered at our
not finding old hoards ; but I think ‘that is not to be
60 RECOVERY OF: JERUSALEM.
wondered at, when we consider the accumulation of :
rubbish, and that in olden times the rock caves
would probably have been used for concealing treasure.
But there is a further consideration, for during the
last twenty years a great portion of the city has been
turned up in the building of the Austrian and
Prussian Hospices, the English Church, the Latin’
Patriarch’s House, the Synagogues, and other public
and private buildings; in executing these works
ten times the money has been expended, and ten
times the area has been examined as in the course
of our operations: and yet what has been found? At
the Convent of the Sisters of Sion, where a strict
watch has been kept by the French archeologists
during the excavations for the foundations, hardly an
article of interest has been found, only a lamp or
two and a stone weight; and yet near here the Jews
and Romans must have had many a sturdy tustle
during the great siege.
That in places there may be objects of the greatest
interest hidden, I think there can be no doubt; but
the opening of them up will probably be due to
some lucky chance, and the searching for them
_ appears to be altogether out of the question at
present ; though there can be little doubt that the
finding of a few rare articles of Jewish wor' kmanship
of a bygone age would create an interest in those
who care very little for the settlement of disputed
points of topography.
The mining cases were called “boxes” by the
fellahin, and they are boxes with neither top nor
SYSTEM OF MINING. 61
bottom; they are made of 2 or 3 inch planks,
12 inches wide; each case consists of four pieces,
the two side pieces have tenons at each end, the two
end pieces have corresponding mortices.
In the ground outside the city cases 4 feet in the clear
‘were generally used; but in the city they were only
3 feet in the clear, and sometimes only 2 feet for the
first four or five, so as to take up as little of the
roadway as possible.
In commencing a shaft, we generally found good
mould for the first 4 feet, and through this we cut,
and put in the four cases, commencing from the
bottom ; but below this we had to put in each case as
we got down, first cutting away for one end and
then for the other end; then for one side; and finally
the other side keyed them together; the soil was
then jammed in behind the side last fixed ; but it was
a difficult matter, as we could not afford to cut any
portion of the wood away from the cases, so as to let
the hand through, for fear of weakening them.
When we were in very loose soil, shingle, &c., we
had to drive in wooden forks, and stuff in brushwood,
to prevent the mass slipping ; but this did not always
prove successful, especially if the men were left an
hour or two by themselves, for on coming back a hole
large enough to bury an ox would be found, As we
had many of these shafts going on together, it was im-
possible to watch them all at once, and cases occurred
where a hole of this kind formed somewhat away from
_ the shaft; and would go on enlarging as we went down,
until we had, close beside us a long funnel-shaped
void—perhaps 30 feet high, 5 feet in diameter at
62 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
bottom, and going up to nothing at top. Suddenly,
some large stone in the side of it would lose its
equilibrium, and descend with a crash, dragging tons
of stones with it, and dashing one side of our shaft
flat against the other; the men would scramble up
the rope and boards like mice at the first alarm, just
escaping; and on. looking down would be seen a
dislocated shaft of 20 feet depth or so, the remaining
10 or 20 feet being all filled in, A case of this kind
did not often happen to the extent here described, and
then only quite outside the city in the open ground ;
but it was impossible to mine through the shingle
outside without having voids of more or less extent
forming around us, and it became very dangerous
work. Of course battens were used, so as to unite all
the cases together, and sometimes planks . were
screwed upright all along the inside, so that we had
4 or 5 inches of timber ; but that is very little to resist
the thrust of a descending block of several tons weight,
or the explosive force of a mass of falling shingle.
One of the most ticklish pieces of work we had
was in sinking a shaft down alongside the corner of
an old wall; when, after passing its foundation, we
sunk thirty feet, and, coming on rock, drove galleries
in two directions. We then commenced a third,
which appeared to get on all right, and the workmen
were allowed to go on with an occasional inspection.
I was summoned down urgently one morning to
the place, and on descending found that our shaft
_ had no- earth on two of its sides, from the rock
upwards to the foundations of the corner, which were
sticking out over a great void quite as large as the
AN AWKWARD JOB. 63
shaft itself. The soil we were working through had
been very wet on this side (there had been some old
shaft, I suppose), and the stuff had gradually all come
down in the shape of mud into the gallery the men
were working in, without being observed by them,
and had been carried up. It was of vital importance
to our work that there should be no subsidence of
any old wall, and so the only thing to be doue was
to fill this place up as fast as we could. Accordingly
the fellahin were bundled out, and Sergeant Birtles
and I proceeded to tamp up the branch galleries,
while every thud of earth let down to us shook small
pieces from the foundations, which rattled over our
heads with an ominous noise. But as long as we
were in these galleries we were comparatively safe,
for had the smash come we should probably have
been only shut in, and might have starved on until
we were dug out; but when they were tamped up,
and we were in the shaft itself, it was a very ugly
job, for we had to break open the side of the shaft
and throw earth and stones into the cavity, while
each basketful thrown in, though-helping to fill it up,
made the trembling foundations more and more
unsafe; and all the time, through the opening we had
made, stones and rubbish kept flying in upon us from
above, taking away our breath, blowing out the
light, and giving us an idea how something larger
would come down. We were battling against time;
gradually we found ourselves mounting up the
. 80 feet, until after five hours of it we were able safely
to underpin the old wall, and feel that we had once
more stolen a march upon accidents.
oe RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM. °
Our galleries. were gomewhat-more unsafe to leave
for a short time to the care of the workmen even
than our shafts, for if a start of soil commenced théy
would run away until it closed up the gallery, then,
coming back, they would clear away, and allow
another fall to take place, and then perhaps another,
for experience taught them very little. Then when
they were visited it would be found that they had
not advanced at all, but had got a great hole above
them perhaps 15 feet in height. This trick was
‘most awkward, and the only remedy was to make
‘them strike work and send for a corporal directly
anything out of the common happened; and if they
did not do so to dismiss them on the spot, with no pay
for the week. But it is needless to say this did not
always secure us, for even with our own non-com-
mission officers it was not possible at timesto a
fall when the shingle was very loose. To show how
difficult it was to work in, I may state that we tapped
an old tank at Robinson’s Arch with a hole not
12 inches square, and yet the shingle flowed out of
this for several days, until the tank was nearly empty
(we were of course carrying it off from below the
fall,) and as it was flowing it came so fast that it
resembled more a cataract of water than of stone.
It was ‘sometimes, therefore, useless to attempt to
continue a gallery after we had come upon a very
loose layer of stuff, and our only course was to try
‘back, in hopes of meeting with the rare layers of
black earth which here and there occurred; and
under this we would work until it would suddenly
run out, when there would be an explosion, the men
GALLERIES. : 65 -
*
would be wetit fying. and the’ t B. Feet or so oF our
gallery would be found full” f shingle, -» On one or
two occasions, when there was nothing of any con--
sequence above us, we cgntinued the gallery in spite
of its caving in all round us, and then as we went
along we had to fill in huge spaces with brushwood ;
the only danger at this time was lest there should be
a large stone lying about Which might smash through
everything. When under the cemetery and places
of consequence, we were always on the look out to
prevent any fall of shingle, and at the slightest sign
‘of it we were obliged to tamp up.
The galleries were originally either 3 feet aquare,
or 4 fect 6 inches in height and 3 feet wide. We
found, however, by experience, that the best height
for our workmen was from 3 feet 4 inches to 3 feet
8 inches, and the width from 2 feet 8 inchgs to 2 feet
1@Inches.
' The rapid alternations of humidity and dryness
acted very injuriously upon the wood; and it was
found after three to four months to have too far
decayed to be capable of supporting anything. The
renewing of these cases in places where shingle was
-presented some difficulties.
Foul air was seldom met with, but the atmosphere
-very often became so completely vitiated by the number .
of men who breathed it that candles would not burn.’
On these occasions we rigged up our forge-bellows and
zinc piping, and pumped down a current of fresh air;
but at Robinson’s Arch we were not able to do this in
some of the small passages, and the work at the head
of the gallery had to go on in the dark. Some of
p
66 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
the passages here were so small that they could only
be cleared out by the men crawling on their knees,
and then there was barely room for passage. On
one occasion, when taking gome visitors down this
shaft, one of them behind took the wrong turning,
and got into one of these passages; after getting to
the end of it, and finding no outlet, he returned and
went up another, and fivially in his struggles his
light went out. After we had got up to the surface
he was missed, and was eventually dragged out in a
fainting state, and was with difficulty hauled up. He
insisted he had been more than a mile underground,
though he had been little over one hundred yards ;
but it is wonderful how deceptive distances are when
you are crawling on your knees and stomach.
One of the least agreeable associations connected _
with our work was the effluvia from the number of
Arabs employed ; it was sometimes necessary to
keep them out on mornings when visitors were
coming down.
Our tools consisted of a small pickaxe, mattock,
and basket, and a spalling hammer ; but we had also,
levers, handspikes, &e., but these the men could not:
be taught to use with eafety ; ; indeed a lever or hand«
spike is not an article that every Frank can wield
effectively unless he is practised or has knowledge.
We used mining trucks for the soil in the galleries,
and wheelbarrows outside ; but it was only the young
men who could be taught to wheel a barrow in a
_ decent manner, for there are some muscles wanting
development in the arms of the fellahin, and after
a few runs of a barrow they would come and say
MOSLEM SUPERSTITION. 67
‘ they were done up; and next morning they com-
. plained of feeling as if they had been well thrashed
with the corbatch, and gave up work altogether.
. Gunpowder could not be used except when we
were away from all buildings, and then only for
breaking up large stones which lay in our way and
were too hard to be broken up with the hammer; we
used, it in blasting through the fallen voussoirs of
Robison’s Arch. It was at that time, I think, that
an odd rumour was got up among the Moslems; they
said we were going to deposit little Jumps of gun-
powder all round the walls of the Noble Sanctuary,
and that these would grow and grow until they
became barrels, and that then in about twenty years
we would come back with some machine and blow
the whole place up.
Our workmen came for the most part from Siloam
and Lifta (Niphtoa), villages near Jerusalem, and we
also employed Nubians and men from the city ; and
to secure ourselves from theft, they were all mixed
up in each excavation, for these several people
quarrelled very much ; but this we did not mind so
long as they did not fight. They were so jealous of
‘ each other that they never could agree, and one side
always split on the other. The men were also searched
when they left work.
I offered to take Jews upon the works ; but though
- several came to try it, one day was always quite
sufficient for ‘them, they were quite unused to the
hard work. I had, however, a Jewish overseer, that
is, a man who kept above ground, and beat the men
with his corbatch when they were idling. He was a
F 2
68 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
first-rate fellow, and was called by the fellahin “the
devil,’—the only Jew I met in the country who
was not afraid of the natives. We had also now and’
then a tall Nubian for-the same purpose; these men
are very much respected in Jerusalem for their
honesty and trustworthiness, and are employed in
guarding the vineyards, &. I have also. notiged
that other Moslems from Egypt and Abyssinia” are
equally respected ; and I cannot help thinking that it
ig not so much due to their being any better than the
natives, but because they have no family ties in the
country, and feel that their employers are their only
friends. Probably a Syrian Moslem in Egypt or
Nubia would develop into an honest man. One very
remarkable trait among these Moslems is the absence
of any feeling about colou*; you see the children of
the black slaves made quite as much of as those more
white; and the sheikhs of tribes and villages often
have a good deal more black blood than the lower
classes, on account of there having been slaves in the
family. ‘
Our men at first insisted on being -paid the
same as those in the city, and all at one rate.:
They also took to praying while they were at work ;
but this was soon put a stop to, and a deduction of pay
made for each prayer. We observed that they never
prayed either before or after work ; in fact, the village
fellah in his younger days appears to be rather a free-
thinker: One good old soul, however, we had on the
works, who asked leave regularly every Friday to go
into the mosque and pray for us all; and as he took
the sins of the whole party with him, he received
SYSTEM ADOPTED. 69
working pay for the time he was away—he was of
the family of the Prophet. A little deference of this
‘ sort paid to the feelings of the old heads of families
a
allowed us to be much stricter with the younger
branches. ;
After our work had been going on a short time
the. pay of the best workmen was raised, but this
caused a general strike. Allah made men one
stronger than another, and therefore they must all
be paid the same. Next week the extra pay was
given in form of an allowance for superior work, and
in’ a few weeks the different classes of pay were
recognised : they ranged from six to seven piastres,
about 1s. 3d. to 1s. 5d.,a most- exorbitant rate of
pay ; but they could not be got to work for less, it
being the rate paid in the city. As soon as the rates
of pay were established, we were able to keep a tight
hand over them, for idleness could be checked by
a reduction, flagrant misconduct being punished by
dismissal on the spot.
Sergeant Birtles always carried about in his pocket -
enough to settle with a man straight off. When the
offence was gross idleness, the man had the option of
a licking with the corbatch and a deduction of pay
instead of dismissal, and he generally chose the
former. After a time we had very little trouble
with the men on the score of wages, especially when
they found they received the full amount instead of
having a percentage deducted by middlemen.
The fellahin well understand the meaning of
justice, but not of kindness; and we found after
a short time that we had an immense influence over
70 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
them. For instance, in February, 1868, we took
about three hundred down to Jericho for excavating,
and they would have gone across the Jordan with ug, /
As it was, some twenty men were marched up one day
to the ford of Damieh, some twenty-five miles off, to
build a causeway for getting a palanquin across the
river, and others accompanied us on the other side;
and they were quite satisfied with what they were
paid, Again, in 1869, on return from the Lebanon, I
wanted to carry a sick lady up from Jaffa to Jeru-
salem, and telegraphed to Sergeant Birtles in the
evening to send twelve men down. He went to
Lifta, about 9 p.m., turned out the village, picked
out twelve men” who had been on the wofks at some
previous time, and sent them off. They only waited
for their bits of bread, and trudging off met us at
Ramleh, and carried the lady up to Jerusalem. No
bargain was made with them of any kind, and they
“were paid what I thought enough, without a mur-
mur. Had the men been wanted from a village
where the men had not been drilled into. order, it
would probably have taken a day and a half before
the twelve men could have been got off, and then
the sum charged would have been enormous.
The best working time for the fellahin is the
summer, for then, working from sunrise to sunset, a
really good day is got out of them, and they do not
suffer from the heat much. Unfortunately this is the
worst time for Franks, who with hard manual labour
are nearly certain to get severe attacks of fever.
In the winter time the fellahin are very miserable,
and have no idea of working to get warm—that
"*
OBTAINING STORES. 71
could never be drummed into their heads. In the
winter also, there, the soil gets so wet that exca-
yating is very much more expensive and laborious,
~ One of the strangest things is the manner in which
the easterns can get round and blind an unsuspecting
Frank, It is so very hard at first to think that they
are always trying to hide the truth from you—to tell
you something they think you will believe. As an
instance: when the late Corporal Duncan came out to
-relieve Sergeant Birtles, a fellah refused to allow him
to open a shaft on his land, on the pretext that we
had always promised to pay him for a shaft previously
sunk, apd had never done so. I saw the man, his
wife, and ‘tis mother had quite worked upon the
corporal by their tears and lamentations ; and I found
it necessary to take him up to my office, and show
him the fellah’s receipt for the money, before he
could credit that they were seeing how far they could.
go. The fellah had calculated on Sergeant Birtles
having taken the receipts with him, and seemed
highly amused at being caught.
The difficulty of obtaining stores was consider-
able, for we could not get a thing in Jerusalem
except picks and mattocks. We were eventually
supplied with stores from Malta, which were excellent,
except the mining cases, which decayed in a few
weeks, and became so rotten that you might almost
poke your finger through them—they could not be
used a second time, while those from England were
used over and over again.
There were a few planks to be bought in Jerusalem ;
but the dealer when he first heard we were in want
72 . BEOOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
of wood put a double price on, so that it was cheaper.
to send to England. It was not until he heard that
our cases had landed that he came down to fair
prices, when he found we were not in want of them
The baskets we obtained by sending down an
order to Lydd for them, with a written pass to
preserve them on their way up, lest the soldiers on.
the road should take them by force; and we had to .
have a man on the look out when they were coming
into town, lest some Frank should tempt the man by«
a higher price to swear the soldiers had taken them.
During the three years our works were open, about
four to five hundred visitors went over them, and
-during Easter time for several days we could do little
work in consequence of the great number of people
always about. At the beginning [ thought that too
many could not go down, for go little was known of
what we were doing in England, that it was very
desirable that as many as. possible should be able to
go. home and describe what was going on.- During
the last year, however, I did not offer the same
facilities for going down, for we had no great vaults
to show at the south-east and north-west angle, and
so much had been said about those we found on the
western skle of the Sanctuary, that the visitors
gefterally seemed to expect to be able to walk about
in “ houses and streets underground,” as they ex-
pressed it, and were evidently disappointed at having
to crawl for several hundred feet along a 3 feet 6 inches
gallery, merely to see “an old wall.”
There were many, however, who really took an
interest in everything, and understood Jerusalem;
LADY VISITORS. 73
and to go with them and"hear their shrewd remarks
was a great relief after taking a party down whose
only remark at the end might be, “ Now, tell me,
what's it all about?” or some other such vague
question, which I generally answered by gonveying
an intimation that for me to tell them all about it
would require a knowledge on their parts of most of
the standard works on Jerusalem, and of the results
of our researches besides. A lady who noticed my
embarrassment on one of these occasions, proposed that
no visitors should be allowed down who could not
answer certain questions on the topography of Jeru-
salem, which seemed rather a good idea.
It was most’ satisfactory, however, to find that in
many instances our labours were not wasted, for many
people who went down the shafts perfectly innocent
on the subject appeared to be suddenly inoculated
with unlimited enthusiasm, and rapidly got the matter
up and pressed it forward when they went home.
It was extraordinary to find how the ladies would
find their way into nearly all the places where the:
gentlemen could go: in the vaults under the cause-
way there were rope ladders they had to go down,:.
and holes they were pushed through, and they. were-
never satisfied till they had seen the “ Masonic Hall”
and the “ Secret Passage.”
At Robinson’s Arch they went as far as the pier of
the bridge and saw the fallen voussoirs, and at the
’ south-east angle they went along the upper and lower
galleries, and were shown the Phoenician characters on
the wall close to the rock. Above the Virgin’s Fount,
also, they were taken into the rock-cut passage, and
74 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
shown the shaft leading down: io. Lead water of the
pool.
One of the first lessons the Acie on the works
had to learn was that they were to receive no bak-
shish from visitors; and it was a somewhat difficult
task, for many, with very kind intention, I have no
doubt, tried their best to make the men take money,
although I told them that any man discovered taking
anything would be immediately dismissed. All bak-
shish was to go into my pocket as donations to the
Fund; and by dint of making one or two examples of
offenders the fellahin began to understand it to be
their interest not to be discovered in receiving any-
thing.
A good deal of time was lost and candles wasted
in conducting visitors round; but as a general rule
those who were not already subscribers to the Fund
gave sums in Jerusalem, either through our banker
or to me, or one of the non-commissioned officers, or
else promised to subscribe on arrival in England.
In this way the total sum of 3982. 9s, 6d. was
received by me from all nations, including one gift of
2501, two of 101. five of 5/.; the remainder were
_ principally donations of 1/., or 2 napoleons ; the total
number of donors were eighty-three, a great number
of whom were Americans.
A very few of the visitors appeared to think they
had a right to give their donations to the fellahin on
the works in spite of the prohibition to the contrary,
and several attempts were made to induce Sergeant
Birtles or the other non-commissioned officers to take
money; one gentleman, the head of a large party,
VISE TORS. 7
vainly Sadeavoutel to seduce Sergeant Birtles into
receiving’a subscription they had got up of 41, and
‘suddenly it appeared to him that he had offered it in
too ostentatious a manner ; so he asked him in privately
to the sitting-room of the hotel under some pretext,
and again tried to induce him to take the money, and
on being again refused, got up angrily and said,
“Then how much will you take?” Sergeant Birtles
replied that he would take any sum as a donation to
the Fund, but would give a proper receipt for it, upon
which the gentleman buttoned up his pockets, declar-
ing that he would give nothing at all.
Some of these little episodes are extremely dis-
agreeable, but many of the more reasonable visitors
commented to me in the most flattering terms on the
conduct of the non-commissioned officers in this and
other respects.
It was very amusing when my dragoman first
discovered that presents were really refused. He
had gone round with a party, and came up with a
gratified look on his stolid mahogany face, saying
that a lady he had conducted to her hotel had offered
a sovereign, which he had said he could not receive.
I commended him highly upon his conduct, and at
the same time I feel bound to say that I felt grieved
to think he would make up for the loss in some much
more unworthy manner,
76 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
CHAPTER III.
WEST WALL,
On 20th November, I867, a shaft was commenced
alongside the west wall of the Noble Sanctuary,
immediately under the southern end of Wilson’s
Arch. The bottom of this pool is 34 feet below the.
springing of the arch,* and is composed to a depth: of
3 feet'6 inches of a very hard concréte, formed of stones
about 3 inches cube, set in a dark cement. Below this
we found black soil, and at 24 feet came in contact
witha mass of masonry, apparently the voussoirs and
drafted stones of a fallen arch and wall, . Here:-we.
were delayed some days, as the stones, being of hard
“ mezzeh,” could not be broken up with the hammer,
Eventually a hole about 2 feet square was broken
through, and we were able to continue our shaft.
The stones passed through appeared to be similar to
those in the Sanctuary wall; and the mass ef’ them
together is about 8 feet deep.
Continuing down, at 44 feet below the springing of
arch we came on water, tasting like that of the.
Hammam esh Shefa, or of the Virgin’s Fount; and on
. *-28915 above mean level of the sca at Jaffa. Cf. Ordnance
Survey of Jeruéalom, published by the Government. ~
€
; WILSON’S ARCH. To face page 76.
(Reproduced, with some alterations, from the Ilustrated London News, by kind permission of the Manager.]
|
RUNNING WATER. q7
observing it for four days, it was found to bubble in
at the northern end of the shaft and run out to the
south, The influx of water was so great, when we
attempted to empty it out, that we were only able to
get down 2 feet below its level, and had then to stop.
A heavy rain came. on, and next morning the
water had disappeared from the bottom of the shaft,
and we were able to get down 7 feet lower, when we
came on water again and soft rock at 51 feet 9 inches
below the springing of the arch. The bottom course of
the Sanctuary Wall is here let into the rock, and we
sunk down 2 feet 10 inches, until we could see it resting
upon the hard mezzeh, which seems generally to have
3 or 4 feet of soft rock overlying it. We had to keep
buckets going, ladling out the water, as we concluded
this work ; and when we left off the water rose toa
height of about one foot above the rock. Periodical
observations have been made during the last two
years, and there is always more or less water found
here; sometimes it rises 3 or 4 feet above the rock,
and then again subsides; it has a gentle motion to
the south. The lower 8 or 10 feet of earth is full of
limestone crystals.
It would appear then that there is still a stream of
water, whether from rainfall or from springs, perco-
lating through the Tyropeon Valley.
An attempt was now made to drive a gallery from
the bottom of this shaft, on the surface of the rock,
across the valley to west; but the pick would make
no impression, and gunpowder could not be used so
near to the Sanctuary wall.
We now made a landing in the shaft at 25 feet
78 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
below the springing of the arch, somewhat above the
large stones we had met with, and drove a gallery
along the Sanctuary wall to south, in search of any
signs of the second suburban gate, as given in Fer-
gusson’s restoration of the Temple. At 23 feet we
came upon a wall of well-dressed stones lying east
and west, and abutting on to the Sanctuary wall; we
were close to the top of it, and, passing over, found a
pavement extending 1] feet, and then a wall in front
of us, which proved to be immediately below the
southern wall of the Pool el Burak: No signs of
any gateway could be found, and the gallery was
abandoned. We now sunk a shaft about 18 feet south
of the southern end of the Pool el Burak, along the
Sanctuary wall, to a depth of 17 feet, in search of a
gateway, with no results.
If a second suburban gateway* existed to south of
Wilson’s Arch and similar to Barelay’s Gate, it would °
have been visible in the shafts or gallery, or in some
part of the Sanctuary wall exposed in the chambers
underneath the Hall of Justice.
The whole of the Sanctuary wall exposed in this
excavation is evidently in situ. There are twenty-one
courses of drafted stoncs averaging 3 feet 8 inches to
4 feet in height, and making in all a height of about
75 feet 6 inches above the rock. The courses are similar
to, but in a much better state of preservation than, the
courses at the Wailing Place; the wall, when first built,
appears to have been exposed to view from the very
bottom, and it is probably one of the oldest portions of
the Sanctuary now existing, and may have formed
* Cf. Josephus, Ant. B. xv., ch. 11, § 5.
‘ PIER OF WILSON’S ARCH. 79
4
- part of the original enclosure wall of the Temple, in
ccordance with Jewish tradition.
It was now desirable to ascertain whether the pier
on which the western haunch of Wilson’s Arch rested
was of the same style of masonry as the Sanctuary
wall (as at Robinson’s Arch), and to find the lie of
the rock underneath the arch. -
Accordingly, a shaft was commenced under the
arch along the east side of the pier at about 7 feet
from the southern end, through the hard concrete of
the pool. Down to 25 feet below the springing of
arch the pier was found to be built of large squared
stones (not drafted) similar to those above the drafted
stones at the Wailing Place; below this, to a depth
of 19 feet 8 inches, the pier is built of large rough
boulders resting on the rock, which is here 44 feet
3 inches below the springing of arch.
There are seven courses of the squared stones,
averaging 3 feet 2 inches to 4 feet 2 inches in height,
and in the three lowest courses a recess is cut (some-
what similar to those at Robinson’s Arch), the lintel
over it being 4 feet 2 inches high. This recess is cut
5 fect into the pier; it is about 6 feet wide and 9 feet
5 inches in height. Apparently it had once been
used as.a gateway or chamber, as there are grooves
“cut in the stone as though for a metal gate.
This recess we found very convenient, as in front
of. it we came across a similar mass of fallen stones to
what we had encountered on the opposite side, and
we were thus enabled to get nearly clear of them by
going in under the lintel; the débris of these fallen
stones terminates near the bottom of this recess,
80 | RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
4 feet below where the rough stones of the pier
commenced, and somewhat above the level.on the’
other side; this is a significant fact; it points to this .
having been the level of the surface when this pier
was built, and therefore to the pier and the original
arch having been constructed long after the erection
of the Sanctuary wall: it opens up also several
questions with regard to the building of the bridge
and causeway, which must be deferred until the whole
of the details of the excavations have been described.
The rock from which the pier springs was found to
be'10 feet above the point where we had struck it
alongside the Sanctuary wall, and tq shelve down to
east; a gallery was therefore driven along its surface
to east under the arch, until we arrived close to our
first shaft ; this was very dangerous work, as the soil
passed through was red mud and rough stones, and
we were continually being flooded with water, which it
was difficult to keep under ; eventually we were nearly
swamped out, and had to leave many of our gallery
frames behind us. The lowest point in the valley
appeared to be about 6 feet to the west of the
Sanctuary wall, but the rock is very nearly level just
here.
There were now so many points of consideration
connected with the appearance of this arch, -both
above and underground, that it became a matte of
very great moment that we should find out 4 2.
construction of the remainder of the causeway. The:
shaft alongside the pier was now filled up to a level
with the bottom of the recess, and a hole driven
through the pier for the purpose of ascertaining its
Sab
-HARAM
1g PC} OF
\ MA SS “SO 2420,
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, L : Spring 2915 |
2 WH,
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oe ee
X S AY bevelled’ stones NA
WILSONS ARCH. os aS
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YSN N
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of Rock... SEIT. ci ec _ NN
iss ‘
; sn stun\
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BD” ry na OTT SE MOOON EN 226-757
LE
OLD AQUEDUCTS. 81
thickness and the nature of the space on the other
side. We had already the record of Captain Wilson
(Notes O. 8. page 75) having attempted to break
through the wall to the north of the pool, and having
discovered that he was breaking into a tank of water ;
and we were here more than 20 feet below that
level. After breaking through 5 feet we found the
pier to be only 10 feet thick ; but there was another
wall in front of us of different material, giving
another 4 feet, so that, with the space between, the
pier is 14 feet 6 inches thick. Beyond this we broke
into an aqueduct filled up with silt running. from
north to south; it was only just large enough for a
‘man to creep through, and a few feet further to south
it was so small that some of the smallest fellah boys
were employed in it.
Thad now more work than Sergeant Birtles could
manage, and was looking out for some assistant,
~when a countryman appeared in Jerusalem who had
wandered there with the intention of carrying out
some eccentric ideas he had with regard to the
immediate improvement of the fellahin, &. I was
very glad to secure his assistance, and at the same
time give him an idea of the people when showing to
the best advantage, that is, under control. He worked
with us very well for a few days, but a little more
knowledge of the Arabs rapidly dispelled his dreams ;
he found he was somewhat in advance of his time,
and shortly after left for home. I paid him the wages
I thought he had earned, and he departed, glad to
have-had an opportunity of so quickly learning some-
thing of the people. A few days after, an anonymous
G
82 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
donation to the Palestine Exploration Fund was put
into my hands, being the exact amount of the wages
T had paid to him for his labour.
Our work here now began to cause much interest
in the city, and many visitors there were to see the
foundation of the Sanctuary wall, among others the
Consul-General for France, M. de Barrére, who was
most enthusiastic about our discoveries, and whom I
have. to thank for many acts of courtesy when in
difficulties.
We now excavated in a chamber to the south- .
west of the pier of Wilson’s Arch, and made our
fortunate discovery of the vaults which form the
causeway. This chamber has a window blocked up
to the north, and. a door to the south; we first tried
the door, but found it only to open into another
chamber full of earth; then at the window, and. in
doing so a stone rolled outwards from us, making a
resounding noise, as though it fell into a great vault.
I allowed some few hours to elapse in case of foul air,
and then set to work exploring; but before giving
you any account of it I must try and describe how
these vaults exist. The road over the causeway is
about 25 feet above the present level of the ground
in the Tyropeeon Valley, about 53 feet above the
level of the ground when the pier of Wilson’s Arch
was built, and about 84 feet above the rock. The’
present Street of David runs immediately above the
secret passage shortly tobe described ; and the arches
of the causeway and Wilson’s Arch lie all to the
north of this passage.
Wilson’s Arch is immediately in front of the Double
VAULTS OF CAUSEWAY. 83
Gate of the Chain and of Peace. To its south there
is a vacant space 8 feet wide covered by a trimmer
arch, and further southwards a very old arch and a
lot of vaults of various dates, on which the present
Hall of Justice is built ; the entrance to the hall being
from the causeway near to the Gate of the Chain.
The outer walls of the Hall of Justice measure about
95 feet from north to south, and about 80 feet east to
west, and would, if the trimmer arch were thrown
déwn, be separated from the causeway by a void of
8 feet. To enter the vaults, you go down to the Jews’
Wailing Place, enter a little garden, to the north,
surrounding the Hall of Justice, and see an arch'in
front of you supporting the floor of the Hall; you
enter ata level 25 feet below the causeway, and
clambering over a little Moslem dwelling, find your-
self under a confusing succession of pointed ragwork
arches of Moslem style, with the Sanctuary wall to
your right; the drafted: stones well preserved and
very black and glazed, apparently from the smoke of
fires; advancing to north, you see a small entrance
to your left, and continuing on, you again see~the
Sanctuary wall to the right, and a little entrance
down into the Pool et Burak. This pool is at south
covered over by an arch of 17 feet 6 inches span, appa-
rently of Roman construction, and on it the north
wall of the Hall of Justice is built, and beyond you
see the trimmer arch; then, further on, the Arch of.
Wilson. The shape of the voussdirs in Wilson’s. Areh
must. be particularly noticed, as they appear to be of
a date not earlier than the fifth or sixth century.
The corbels on the haunches of the north sidé of the
G2
Bt RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
eek must be nphiood becius they appear to have
supported a balcony, the continuation of the secret
passage, which seems to have entered the Sanctuary
wall immediately south of Wilson’s Arch about 10 feet
below the roadway.
We will now return a little, and go in at the small
passage we saw to our left on entering the vaults ;
we find this turns round at once into vaults running
north, with pointed arches apparently Saracenic, and
here and there are words scratched on the stones in
modern Hebrew characters. ,
We pass through two of these vaults, and then
scramble on the stomach under a low arch, and find
ourselves in another similar vault; and these two last
are in continuation of the arch mentioned above
which carries the front or northern side of the Hall
of Justice.
These vaults were already known, and a sketch of
them is given in the Ordnance Survey plans, . The
passages through them, however, had to be cleared
out, and after a surreptitious visit from some meddling
Effendis, a mouse-trap had to be constructed between
the last two vaults just under the arched communica-
tion; it consisted simply of a pit sunk about 6 feet
and 6 feet long and width of doorway, with a plank to -
cross over on; and when we left off work we drew our
drawbridge up and carried it off; the pit was not, of
course, to catch any of the Effendis in, only to scare
them. They naturally got a very exaggerated account
_ of the pit we had dug for them, and never ventured
in again while we were at work here without per-
mission, =
MOUSE-TRAP. 85
It was in this last vault, beyond the mouse-trap,
that we found the way into the causeway. At the
southern end there was a doorway, already spoken of ;
then we tried the window blocked up to north of the
vault, and after taking out a course the backing fell
through away from us, and we found we had got
upon more vaults—on January 18th, 1870.
On- getting through the hole made in the
blocked-up window, we found ourselves in a
system of vaults, with semicircular and segmental
arches, totally different to those we had previously
been working in. We were just outside the north or
front wall of the Hall of Justice, and we found the
same trimmer arch covering a space of 8 feet, and
uniting this wall to the arches of the causeway or
viaduct. The street above lies immediately on the
trimmer arch, so that the houses on the opposite side
of the street to the Hall of Justice rest on the viaduct,
and therefore I presume they are comparatively
modern. It has already been stated that the span of
Wilson’s Arch is 42 feet, and its width 43 feet; but
these vaults in continuation are not only of less span,
but they are in duplicate, that is to say, there are two
sets of them, the southtrn one 23 feet 6inches wide, the
northern 21 feet wide, making in all a width of 44 feet
6 inches, just a little more than that of Wilson’s Arch,
It is then apparent that one of these sets is older than
the other, and the southern seems by its appearance
to claim the priority ; and if so, the original viadnet
arch over the Pool el Burak was only 23 feet 6 inches
wide; this must at some time or other have been
broken down then a restoration took place, the
86 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
causeway was widened by a fresh set of arches
to the north, and the void space over the Pool el
Burak was spanned by the present Wilson’s Arch,
and made the width of the double causeway.
It does not appear probable that these arches were
ever exposed to view (except Wilson’s Arch) ; they
appear to have been used as secret chambers for
stores and for water. One striking peculiarity*about
them is that they have other sets of chambers below ;
that is to say, between each set of piers there are at
least two sets of arches, thus dividing up the space
so that it could be used to advantage.
A learned rabbi came one evening to show me how
these vaults inight be referred to in a passage in the
Talmud, xzhere it is mentioned that for some cere-
monial furpose a chamber was kept near the Temple
built arch upon arch ; but as far as could be made
out in that case the springing of the upper arch
should rest on the crown of the lower, which was
not the case here.
Some portions of these arches are in ruins and
have fallen, and the walls are much decayed. Sergeant
Birtles had a narrow escape when we were exa-
_ mining the place ; he clambered up a piece of wall
where the stones were sticking out like teeth; at,
about 8 feet from the ground one of these gave way,
and he fell back with it in his arms; luckily, it was
so heavy that they turned in falling, and fell together
sideways ; it then rolled over on to him, and injured
him severely, so that he cold barely craw] out into the
" open air. He suffered fromthis injury for some months,
The southern of these twin viaducts is broken in its
“ MASONIC HALL.” 87
continuity to the west by a large chamber of very
ancient masonry which intervenes and has been
arched over; and the northern viaduct has, in two
of its arches, been filled up with small passages with
Garacenic arches, apparently for some system of
water supply. In them there are draw-wells opening
from overhead, and there is the mark where the
bucket appears to have rubbed the sides; they
terminate on all sides in open spaces quite choked
full of rubbish. Above could be seen, here and
there, the form of the vaults of the northern
viaduct. In one of ‘the passages leading west is an
opening leading’ down into the ancient vault re-
ferred to above, which has luckily been used as a
tank, and thus the plaster bas preserved some of the
original outline of the carved stones, This chamber
acquired the name of the Masonic Hall from some
circumstances connected with its discovery, and by
that name I shall term it when referring to it again,
Tt foyms a portion of the southern viaduct ; but its
gemicircular arch is much less ancient than its walls ;
it lies nearly north and south, but considerably
skewed to the general line of the viaduct. The entrance
_ opens down to it from the north, the floor of the little
passage leading to it being about 3 feet above
the érown of the arch, so that there is a steep
shelving passage into it. I was lowered down by
means of a rope, and was considerably surprised to
find myself in a large rectangular vaulted chamber
of ancient construction, with a column or pedestal
sticking up from the centre,
On examining further, tlie chamber was found to
.
88 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
lave originally been 23 feet’ from east to west, and
20 feet. 4 inches from north to south, but 10 feet
4 inches has been added on at the south, so that it
is now 80 feet 8 inches in length; but the arch
over the southern portion is not of the same date as
that of the northern, and to conceal this the column
was raised in the contre under the break, and two
pointed arches thrown over from the column to the
sides, the span of each being about 10 feet. The
column has since fallen in part, and much of the
ribbed arch; the silt has closed up over it, and thus
the stump of the column is found projecting through.
It is to be remarked, that the 10 feet added on to
this chamber occupies the position which the secret
passage would have held, and is under the street.
_ Passing through a small hole in the wall tothe south,
we again find ourselves in one of the Saracenie
vaults supporting the Hall of Justice ; this has again
a-door leading to south; but the chamber there, if
existing still, is filled with earth and roots-of trees, -
To return to the Masonic Hall; ‘the walls are
built of square stones extremely well jointed, and
looking as if laid without mortar. At each corner
there were pilasters with capitals (sce sketch), but_
that at the north-east angle alone is in a moderate
state of preservation. At the south-east angle isa
double entrance with lintels over it, and there have
been ornaments on them and on the jambs, but ti ey
cannot be traced exactly. We worked through this
gateway, which was blocked up, and found the old
wall to have been of bevelled stone on outside and
4 feet thick; beyond was a lot of rough masonry, put
os
90 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
them are the smaller arches (with thicker piers) of
the southern viaduct. Here we have to turn south,
and passing under a small gate with a lintel we find
ourselves in a secret; passage leading under the
‘Street of David ; it is greatly filled with rubbish and
sewage, but the arch is white and clean ; this passage
is 12 feet wide, and the vault is semicircular; its
crown is about 9 feet below the level of the road-
way, and in between must run the aqueduct from the
Pools of Solomon. Walking up this” passage, and
looking to the right, we see the entrances to the vaults
of the southern and northern viaducts; one is nearly
choked up with rubbish, another is used as a tank,
&ec. Having traced the passage to a distance of
220 feet from the Sanctuary wall, we found a thin
wall blocking up the passage; we broke through
it, and dropped down’ about 6 feet into a continu-
ation of it stopped up by a wall to west, but opening
’ with a door to south; through this we crept and
then saw light, and getting through into another
chamber to south, we found ourselves ini "# donkey
stable, the owner of which happened to be there,
and he, on seeing us grimed with dirt, rushed out
swearing he was followed by Gins. Subsequently
we found a further portion of this secret passage
used as a tank (at 250 feet from Sanctuary wall), and
there can be little doubt but that it can be traced Se
several yards further up the street, if indeed it does
not.still exist right up to the Jaffa Gate.
Mejir ed-Din mentions “the Street of David,so named
from a subterranean gallery which David caused
to be miade from the.Gate of the Chain to the citadel
SECRET PASSAGE. 91
called the Mihrab of David. It still exists, and parts
of it are occasionally discovered. It is all solidly
vaulted.”* .
There cannot-be a doubt but that the secret passage
we have found is that referred to by Mejir ed-Din ;
but. it does not appear to me that its construction is
of so ancient a date as the time of David, or even
of Herod; and one argument against the passage
- and the causeway being ancient is our discovery of a
vaulted passage immediately to the south of and
40 feet below the present street, in connection with a
postern opening out of the city into the valley; it
is difficult to understand -how this old postern could
have been used if’ the causeway existed at the same
time. I will now try and describe it. The furthest
point to west that we have traced the secret passage
is 250 feet from the Sanctuary wall; and it here 4s
used as a tank under one of the houses of Joseph
Effendi; the roadway above (2422 feet) is nearly on
a level with the general level of the Sanctuary, and
the crown of the arch of the secret passage is about
8.or 10 feet below the strect, the springing of arch
being 2410 feet.
The portion of the secret passage used as a tank
opens from a vaulted chamber onthe southern side of
the causeway, and a littleto the east of the production
o” the street called The Valley. In this chamber
Joseph Effendi tuld me he had found the mouth of
a cistern some years ago, and had covered it up with
refuse from the house; .the present floor of the
chamber is on a level with the springing of the arch
92 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
of secret passage. After some searching we found the '
mouth of the cistern at 6 feet below the present sur-
face ; but when found it became a question whether
a man could descend it, and if down whether he
could be got up again. It consists of a narrow shaft
reaching down for 25 feet below the present floor of
the chamber, so narrow that we could not bend our
legs to get up from one step to another of the rope-
ladder ; and it was found at last that the only method
of managing it was to get hauled up by the rope
about a foot at a time ; but then the strain on the rope
from ‘the friction of the body against the sides was
very great.
Having arranged for our ascent, we descended, and
found the shaft to open through the crown of an arch
into a chamber running east and west, and about
4-feet. to the south of the secret passage above.
The crown of the arch of this chamber is 40 feet
6 inches below the level of the strect above, and 13 feet
6 inches below the bottom of the secret passage,
where it is turned intoa tank in which there is water, -
This chamber is 14 feet 6 inches in length, 8 feet broad
at the western and 10 feet 6 inches at the eastern end.
It is plastered, Its roof is peculiar; it is a straight-
sided pointed arch; the rise at the widest point is
only 2 feet. At the western end a hole was made in
the masonry, but after going in 4 fect damp earth
was met with, and no signs of the continuation of
the chamber. We had to be very careful, as in case
of our breaking into a tank there would have been a
difficulty in getting up our working party in safety.
The débris was next cleared from side to side, and a
ANCIENT POSTERN. 98
hole punched in the middle of the wall to east, when
we found a doorway built up; this led into another
vaulted chamber, also lying east and west, 18 feet long,
and, like the first chamber, wider at its eastern ex-
tremity, being 12 feet wide to west and 13 feet 9 inches
toeast. ‘There was no plaster about this chamber. The
archis nearly semicircular, of nineteen courses of nearly
equal size. At the eastern end is a semicircular arch
of 5 feet span, resting on a lintel 12 feet long and
2 feet high, forming the top of a doorway whose
height was not ascertained. This doorway, 5 feet
wide, leads to a passage only 2 feet 6 inches wide, and
covered over with blocks of stone laid horizontally.
At 10 feet up this passage to east there is appearance
of some building having given way and blocked up
the passage; and I considered it prudent not to
meddle with it, as there were houses overhead,
EASTERN END OF VAULT C (CAUSEWAY).
It will be seen on reference to the woodeut that the
gateway at the eastern end is of a description likely
to have been used as the entrance to a passage or
postern.
94 |. BECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
In this chamber a volute of an Ionic capital was
found. It would appear as though these vaults
had been the vestibule to a postern leading from the
Upper City into the Tyropoeon Valley.
There is a report in Jerusalem that there are other
vaults somewhat to. the north of the causeway
reaching up towards the Jaffa Gate. I went down
to visit them shortly before leaving Jerusalem ; but
the filth was too great to allow of one getting up
into them, as they were used forthe refuse and sewage
of-the houses round about. :
I’ should. have mentioned that in the northern
vault next to and west of Wilson’s Arch, on the lower
floor, there are two masonry troughs or aqueducts, «
* which lead down through the floor by a shaft into the
aqueduct we discovered at the recess in the pier of
- Wilson’s Arch; and that underneath the southern
viadust, just before getting into the secret passage,
‘there is another vault running east and west, in which
there isa shaft running down 14 feet, and then aw
aqueduct leading towards a point at the soubewest
angle of the pier of Wilson’s Arch; and at this point
I expected to find some large tank where “all these
aqueducts would meet; but, unfortunately, they are
all cut through by the modern vaults of the Hall of
Justice. : . Bato
‘ROBINSON’S ARCH.
The recovery of the pier and ‘fallen voussoirs of
this arch has in a great measure served to simplify +
the discussions with regard to’ the position of the.
Temple ; for while Mr. Fergusson considered it to be
ROBINSON'S ARCH. 9B
the entrance to the Royal cloisters of King Herod,
and Mr. Williams ascribed it to the time of Justinian,
~ there were those who denied that it had ever been a
bridge at all, and said that the skewback had been
placed there in anticipation of some future want.
Excavations. —Seven shafts were sunk in a line east
and west across .the Tyropeon Valley, opposite to
Robinson’s Arch, in order to ascertain the nature of
the valley and search for remains of the ancient
viaduct.
No. 1.—285 feet from Sanctuary wall, and close in
under the eastern side of Upper City; level of
surface, 2401 feet; level of rock, 2379 feet 6 inches.
Sunk through. common garden soil, and at 21 feet
6 inches came on a polished limestone slab,-6 feett ©
square, .covering the main sewer of the city ; it was’
6 fect high, 3 feet wide, cut in the rock, and full of .
very offensive sewage, through which a current of
water was running to south—probably from the baths ;
‘some pieces of paper were thrown in, and in a few
minutes they appeared in the main sewer, where it is
uncovered, .outside the Dung Gate. This seems to
be the sewer-through which the fellahin entered the
city in the time of Ibrahim Pasha, when they appear’
to have -penetrated up as far as the causeway of
David Street; and found exit through some of the
verlis there. The sewer itself runs on:past the Dung
Gate towards Siloam, until it opens out on the side of
the hill above the Kedron, only a few feet south of
the Fountain of the Virgin. It was examined by our
party in 1868, and is, no doubi, the passage explored
hy Tr Barclay ( (ot of the. Great King). as far as
96 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
the Dung Gate, when he supposed it to be a water !
channel running into the Virgin’s Fount, from the
Temple or from Sion.
The sewage at present escapes from the sewer
after passing the Dung Gate, and is used by the
fellahin for the purpose of irrigating and manuring *
the beautiful cabbages and cauliflowers which are so |
much prized in Jerusalem; most of the lettuces and ;
salads grown in the Kedron Valley are also periodi- 4
cally watered with this compound; and I have often
noticed that visitors to Jerusalem suffer for some
days after eating them. Good salads brought up _
on pure water can generally be obtained from Urtas
and other villages, but they are more expensive,
No. 2.250 feet from Sanctuary wall; line of
surface, 2406°6 feet ; level of rock, 2388°6 feet; came
upon the remains of a colonnade just below the
surface, consisting of piers built on the rock, 2 feet
by 3 feet, and 12 feet 6 inches apart, with fallen .
arches between ; piers built of well-dressed ashlar of |
soft sandstone, similar to the ruins of Kakan,
Suwaimeh, é&e., in the Jordan valley. On the north
side a plastered wall of rubble was found between the
piers, and it was not ascertained whether there were
more piers beyond ; to the east they were continued
(as will be seen in the succeeding shafts), and appear
to have formed either a covered way or else to have
supported the viaduct reaching over to Robinsot’s:
Arch. The flooring was much disturbed, and is:
formed of well-dressed limestone flagging cut in‘
" squares, and laid parallel to the lie of the building, |
east and west. The piers measure about 12 feet”
TYROPGEON VALLEY. 97
from flagging to springing of arches, and built in
courses about 1 foot each in height.
Cut in one of the piers is a little door, leading to
a cylindrical cistern cut and roofed in rock, nearly
filled with camels’ bones, and plastered with 2 inches
of cement; diameter of cistern, 10 feet; height, 15
feet 3 inches; roof slightly domed.
No. 3.—216 feet from Sanctuary wall; level of
surface, 2409°5 feet; level of rock, 2377°5 feet; at
12 feet came on arch similar to and in line with
north wall at No. 2; at 18 feet came on limestone
pavement similar to No. 2. Below pavement found
débris of cut stone, 2 feet by 1 foot by 1 foot; and the
remains of a wall (melekeh) running north and south,
of well-squared dressed. stones, resting on the rock.
No, 4.182 feet from Sanctuary wall; level of
surface, 2405°5 feet; level of rock, 2383°5 feet; at
.12 feet found débris of stone building, and part of
white marble column, 12 inches in diameter. These
ruins appear to be a portion of the colonnade met
with in Nos. 2 and 3. Below this at 22 feet came
on a row of stones, and the mouth of a cistern cut in
the rock, Cistern is square, sides 10 feet, roof flat, and
7 feet below the surface of rock, height 10 feet,
plaster 2 inches thick and very hard; no entrance
for water, two man-holes opening down through roof,
1 foot 4 inches by 2 feet 3 inches, and 2 feet
‘6 inches by 2 feet. This may have been constructed
’ for the reception of grain in early times,
No. 5.—182 feet from Sanctuary wall; level of
_surface, 2399 feet; level of rock, 2369 feet; at
+ 13 feet 6 inches came on the walls of a plastered
H
98 «RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
chamber, resting at 21 feet 3 inches on a strong wall
of hammer-dressed stones, running north and south,
which again, at 26 feet 10 inches, rests on a strong
wall, running east and west; there are three courses
of this latter remaining, and they rest on the rock;
courses 1 foot 8 inches in height.
The rock here is scarped and cut into steps in a
very unaccountable manner; there is a recess at the
bottom of the steps covered over by a piece of flagging
3 inches thick, on which a buttress rests; the stone
of walls is melekeh; the wall running east and west
is about 15 feet thick, and its use is not apparent.
No.6,—92 feet from Sanetuary wall; level of surface,
2395 feet; level of rock, 2354 feet 6 inches; passed
- some débris of sandstone similar to that found in Nos. 2,
3, and 4, probably forming part of the colonnade.
At 9 feet the mouth of a shaft 8 feet deep was
found, and opening through the crown of a nearly
semicircular arch, covering a tank 18 feet long,
north to south, 11 feet 6 inches wide, and 15 feet
high from bottom to springing of arch; the shaft.
was very narrow, and the tank full of rubbish, a
great portion of which had to be brought up, A
hole was then made through the plaster at western
side, and rock found.at 33 feet; it is scarped here for
some fect north and south, and as it is exactly the
correct distance from the pier found subsequently, it
probably is the east side of the second pier from the
Sanctuary wall; no drafted stones, however, were
found on it, neither were any fallen voussoirs found
underneath the tank, which is quite a modern
construction. °
MZ DISCOVERY OF THE PIER. 99
It was now desirable to drive a gallery along the
face of the rock from the bottom of this tank to the
Sanctuary wall, so as to make sure of coming in _
contact with the pier, if it existed; and to examine the
wall which Captain Wilson struck on in an excavation
he had made two years before. Accordingly we
broke through the east wall of the tank, and drove a
. staircase gallery down along the face of the rock —
until we were 70 feet from the Sanctuary wall,
when we found the rock to be cut horizontally, and
a wall of rock to our right; we continued the gallery
till we were only 54 feet from Sanctuary wall, when
we found rock in front 6f us, and also to our left;
so that we had for the’ last 16 feet been driving
along a cutting only a few inches wider than our
gallery frames. On poking up the wall of rock in
front of us to a height of 5 feet, a fine drafted stone
resting in situ was discovered, and concluding it was
‘the western side of the pier of Robinson’s Arch, I
stink another shaft—No. 7—at 72 feet from the
Sanctuary wall, with a gallery, which was directed
so as to come about 8 feet above the rock at the
point where we had found the drafted stone, I
should have liked to have dropped just down upon
this point from above ; but unfortunately the ground
here for about 68 fect from the Sanctuary wall
belongs to the family of Abu Said, from whom
“Captain Wilson had experienced such trouble in 1865,
and who were too greedy to listen to any moderate
terms. I was obliged therefore to do this work from
the grounds of the Sheikh of the Magharibins.
The shaft of the tank was’ left open, and the
H 2
100 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
gallery from its eastern side only partially tamped
up, so that we had a constant current of air coming
down No. 6, and passing up through No. 7,.which
enabled us to get on without using the. bellows and .
air pipes, On reaching the drafted stone again, it
was found to form part of the pier of Robinson’s
Arch, which I will now describe. It is 51 feet 6 inches
long and 12 feet 2 inches thick; on the western side,
where we touched it, there are only two courses in
situ; on the eastern side there are three. The stones
are of very hard mezzeh, precisely similar to those in
the wall at the south-west angle of the Sanctuary; .
they have the same draft and chisel marks, and are of
the same heights. The lowest course is 3 feet 6 inches
high, the second 3 feet 9 inches, the third 4 feet.
The rock on which the bottom course rests.is at a
level of 2345 feet, that is, 42 feet below the springing .
of the arch above. 6.
'The pier stands exactly opposite the remains of
the Arch of Robinson, the width of which Captain
Wilson gives as 50 feet; the exact. span is a trifle
over 41 feet 6 inches. 7
The pier was examined at its northern and southern
ends, and on the eastern side for 28 feet; on the
western side it was seen but could not be carefully
examined ; it is constructed in a curious manner:
apparently it was hollow, giving a space of 5 feet
wide inside; the eastern side is also built ir: an
economical manner ; there are five piers of the two
first courses, about 5 feet long each, and a space
between each of about 6 feet, and over these spaces
the third course is thrown in the form of great
ee
DEBRIS OF FALLEN ARCH. 101
lintels, one of. them 13 feet 9 inches long, and
weighing 10 tons. By this method, only about half
the bulk of the pier is occupied by stone.
Stretching from the base of the pier to the
Sanctuary wall is a pavement, falling slightly to
the east, and on this were found. the fallen voussoirs
and débrig of Robinson’s Arch. At first it was
supposed that this pavement was the top of a lower
level. bridge, and that the spaces left in the pier
were passagis for getting across; but we eventually
found that the pavement is laid over an immense
mass of rubbish, and in all prokability is the same as
that which we found at the south-west angle of
Sanctuary, and which probably also extends up to
the Prophet's Gateway, at some 16 feet below the
sill. If the pavement does not itself extend all this
distance, we at least are nearly certain from further
researches that there was a road up there.
In getting across through the voussoirs of the arch
we were in great difficulties, for it was quite out of
the line of our fellahin, and Sergeant Birtles and
I had constantly to be on the spot doing the work.
We tried to get through by breaking up the melekeh
voussoirs, but it was too slow work, and eventually
we had to blast them ; but this isa very dangerous
proceeding, as the stones are all lying piled upon
eack other, with vacant places between, and our
galery frames were quite unfit for supporting stones
that weighed several tons each. We worked from
one of the recesses in the pier, which was easily
cleared out, being filled with mud; but when we
touched the fallen arch, the old paving-stones came
102 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
toppling over into our den, and we had to get them
out with great labour ; and as six of them weighed 24
tons, it can be imagined that it was no easy matter
dragging them up through the ‘galleries, in which
there was so little space for working. We had to
break up several stones of 3 and 4 tons each, and
get them out piecemeal; and our men would not
attempt to work directly our backs were turned—in
fact, it was dangerous for-them to do so.
Extract of :letter of 11th January, 1868 :—* East
of the pier, on a level with the rock surface, is a
pavement, which we have examined for about 18 feet ;
and on it, lying huddled together just as they fell,
are the actual voussoirs of the great viaduct called
Robinson’s Arch; they lie .in-lines north and south,
and between them one can squeeze with difficulty for .
some 10 or 15 feet each way. They are in our way
going east, and though they are of melekeh, they are
so hard that the men cannot break them, and I have
had to blast them. It will take us at least a month
more thoroughly to examine this pier and all that
pertains to it. To the north of pier we have tapped
a tank, which has been running stones for several
-days; to-day it is nearly exhansted, and we have got
several peeps into.a big cavern.” :
This proved to be a tank of no great age, built
against the remains of the northern end of the pier,
so as to save masonry... On working through this
cistern to east, we found a low passage or drain
_leading in that direction, a few feet above the
pavement; it led direct to the Sanctuary wall, and
then branched north and south along the wall. Tt_
ABU SAUD INTERFERES. 103
was traced to the Prophet's Gate, when a breach oc-
curred, through which a large quantity of shingle
poured without stopping, and so we had to give
up. This passage (3 feet high and 2 feet wide) is
built of rubble with flagging on the top; it was full
‘of mud, and could only be cleaned out by .the men
crawling on their hands and knees; and at times the
air was so bad that candles would not burn, and
they had to work in the dark at the head of the
gallery : the total length was 165 feet.
The great value of this passage was that by it we
saw that the Sanctuary wall extends in one unbroken
line from Rgbinson’s Arch up to the Prophet’s Gate,
for above ground the old wall itself cannot be seen, on
account of the Abu Said premises intervening. We
were at this time working night and day, and Abu
Safid complained that he could not sleep at night for
fear his house should tumble about his ears, He
professed not to understand that we were only
clearing out a passage, and he wrote to the Pasha on
the subject; but he could not succeed in stopping our
work, or rather in levying black mail upon us3 and
eventually we became firm friends. I offered to
show him ‘the tank we had found in his grounds,
and He wanted to teach me astrology : we did not go
very deep into the matter.
We also drove a gallery along the western side of
the pier, to determine its length; then round its
southern end, and to the south of the fallen arch, in
_hopes of finding an inscription on some of the stones ;
but we got into such a confused heap of débris that
we could make nothing of it. In the pavement we
104 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
found a shaft leading down into a pool cut in the
rock below. While driving this gallery along the
western side of the pier, the soil suddenly came in
with a run, and we found we had come upon the hole
made by Captain Wilson in 1865; we only got across
with some trouble, and found on the surface that the
earth had caved in some four feet. Abu Said was
indignant, and said we were bringing down the
Sanctuary wall, and brought the Megilis to see the .
hole early the next morning; but we had been —
beforehand with him, and had filled-it-up and neatly
levelled it over, so that he was unable to say where
it had been. He was very much perplexed about it,
as the Mejelis thought he was playing a joke on
them, and did not pay much attention to him after
that.
I have now to relate what we found beneath the
pavement, We sunk a hole through it, and found
‘only débris and old masonry to a depth of 23 feet,
where we found rock, and following it up to east
came upon what appeared to be two fallen vousgoirs
of an arch, jammed in over a great rock-cut canal,
running from north to south, 12 feet deep, 4 feet
wide, its eastern side being about 12 feet from the
Sanctuary wall; but it does not run parallel to it,
and was probably in use before this portion of the ©
wall was constructed.
The bottom of this canal (2313 feet) is 74 feet
below the springing of Robinson’s Arch, and 107 feet
below the level of the old roadway. It was full of
mud at the point we struck it, and when we got
down to the bottom we drove galleries along it; but
CANAL CUT IN THE ROCK. 105
eventually some mud fell in by accident, and we
found that it was covered by an arch, and that the
mud reached up to within a foot of the crown.
VOUSSOIR OF AN ARCH FALLEN THROUGH ROOF OF ROCK-CUT CANAL,
The examination of this canal occupied a consider-
able time, and we met with somany checks, that it
will be more convenient to describe it all together.
The point where we opened into it was as nearly
as possible opposite the centre of the pier, and about
12 feet from’ the Sanctuary wall. We opened it out to
south, and after. 24. feet found ourselves in a square
chamber cut in rock, with a segmental arch, a
°
106 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.»
passage cut in rock leading due east,. but‘eut off by
the Sanctuary wall; to the west there is a passage
about 3 feet square, which we could not examine, as
there was a stone in front, on which the arch of the
chamber rested, it having slipped. To our south we
passed through a small passage, and entered a
circular, cistern cut in rock, diameter 16 feet, height
14 feet 4 inches, roof of rock and flat, thickness of
roof 2 feet to 3 feet; in the centre is a man-hole of
masonry, leading down from the pavement under
Robinson's Arch; to the south is a passage leading
off from the cistern, the bottom at the same level as.
the bottom of that leading in, and the bottom of the
cistern is 3 feet lower, so that there would always have
been a supply of water in the tank. There was a depth
of 8 feet 6 inches of mud inside the cistern; and when
we first entered it, and drove along the rock, our
gallery being only 3 feet high, we travelled-all round
without finding the exit passage. This passage is 8 feet
high, and passes close to the south-west angle of Sanc-
tuary wall; it is cut in rock, is 3 feet 9 inches wide,
and has a slightly pointed semicircular arch thrown
over, of six courses, Passing the south-west angle, it
leaves the rock, and is carried south-east in masonry,
3 feet wide, with an arch of five courses, falling
rapidly to bed of T'yropeon; after 40 feet it turns
to south, and is carried along in a modern-looking
drain 2 feet wide, covered over with flagging. This
was examined for 59 feet, but it became too narrow
and full of silt to pursue it further.
We now examined the canal to north from the point
we opened into it under Robinson’s Arch, and found
+ . CURIOUS PASSAGES. 107
that it rund slightly away from the Sanctuary wall,
ig 3 feet 9 inches wide, and roofed over by a skew-
pointed arch, that is to say, an arch with five courses,
the side to east being 22 inches, to west 33 inches. It
has a very comical appearance. At 34 feet north of
the'north end of pier we find the canal issues from
another circular pool, 12 feet-9 inches in diameter,
14 fect high, roofed in rock, with the bottom 3 feet
below the bottom of canal; there is a man-hole lead-
ing down from pavement above. Into this pool a
canal comes from the north; itis 4 feet wide, flat roof
in rock, and continues for 14 feet, when it turns
round to west, and has on the eastern side an entrance
into another circular rock-cut pool, of which only half
is to be seen, as it is cut through by the foundations of
the Sanctuary wall. To the west of this canal, at
south end, two curious rock-
eut rectangular chambers
have been found, standing
partially on top of the cir-
cular pool. They measure
about 16 fect by 6 feet, and
have semicircular arches ;
in one isa flight of steps,
cut in the rock, leading up
above. A base ofa column,
which had fallen through
the roof, was lying in one itecesieeee
of the chambers; it was | ANS
too. heavy to be brought it
home, and was used as part
of the monument erected to the memory of the late
i
108 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
Corporal Duncan (by his comrades) in 1 the British
cemetery at Jerusalem.
In following up the canal now, to north we find
that it is formed of masonry, about 3 feet wide and
8 feet high, with a semicircular arch of five courses,
for 123 feet, where, in front of the Prophet’s Gate-
way, and at 14 feet from the Sanctuary wall, the style
changes, and it becomes a narrow passage 18 inches
wide, with a flat roof of flagging, and runs off from
the wall; it is 160 feet long, and is cut in two, a few
feet south of the causeway of David Street, by the
wall of a house. It would have been dangerous to
have broken through this, and so the work was ended:
Opposite to the Prophet’s Gateway the bottom of the
canal was found to be about 7 feet above the rock.
Several lamps, weights, Jars,
and an iron bar were found in
this canal, and also a stone roller
for rolling flat roofs, precisely
f) similar to those in use on the flat
roofs of the Lebanon; so it ‘is
evident that at some period at
least one house in Jerusalem
was covered with a flat roof of
wooden joists and mud; and I am
inclined to the opinion that this was the general
mode of construction of roofs until after the city was-
destroyed by Titus, when, wood becoming scarce, the
vaulted roof came into use. Measurements were
taken of the two fallen voussoirs lying over the canal
where we first struck it; one is much decayed, but
the other measures 7 fect in length, and is 5 feet thick
SUMMARY. 109
at the extrados, and 4 feet 4 inches at the intrados,
and 4 feet high; there is a square joggle hole cut on
one side in the middle, 14 inches by {1 inches,
and 44 inches deep.
We could not get leave to dig alongside the wall
under the arch without paying such a heavy bakshish
as would have spoilt the market; but the wall was
seen in several places, viz. at three points from the
great canal at the foundations, at several points in
the drain running along the wall above the pavement
to the Prophet’s Gate, and also in a gallery driven
immediately under the pavement to the wall; a shaft
was also sunk early one morning alongside the
Sanctuary wall ‘baring three courses from the
surface. At the south-west angle, on south side,
immediately outside my friend Abu Satid’s ground, a
shaft was sunk down alongside the wall. The result
is that we have a correct idea of the wall under the
arch; and it appears that it is built up of drafted
stones, with rough faces as far as the pavement, and
that above that the faces are smooth; and consequently
it would appear that this portion of the Sanctuary
wall was not built until the earth had filled up the
valley.as high as the pavement, so that it will. be less
ancient than the Sanctuary wall at Wilson’s Arch.
The following is what the evidence before us
(together with what follows in other chapters) appears
to prove; and it will be noticed that, in consequence
of subsequent researches, it differs somewhat from
that given in letter of 13th January, 1869.
1.. The winding aqueduct was cut in rock.
110. RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
structed, and a bridge leading across the
Tyropeon Valley connected the Palace with
the Lower City on the plateau below and east
of the Upper City.
8. The arch of the bridge fell (two vousscirs still
remain), breaking in part of the arch of the
aqueduct. .
4, The temple was reconstructed by Herod, who
took in the Temple of Solomon, and built the
present south-west angle of the Sanctuary; and
_ the*new wall cutting across portions of the
rock-cut canal, connections were made by
means of masonry passages. At this time the
rubbish had begun to choke up the valley at
this point to 23 feet; and the wall to that
height was built with rough-faced stones, the
portion above being made to resemble the
older parts of the wall. A pavement was
laid on the rubbish, and the pier and arch of
Robinson’s Arch and viaduct were built. In
order to obtain water readily, shafts (which
still exist) were-constructed at intervals from
the pavement to the canal and pools.
5. The arch fell, and now rests upon the pavement.
6. Débris began to fill up the valley, and the pier
of the arch, sticking out, was removed for
building purposes— all except the three lower
courses.
7. When Wilson’s Arch and pier were built, a
second pavement was made along the west
wall of Sanctuary, level with sill of Prophet's
Gateway, and a few feet above the pavement
SUBURBAN GATES. ui
-at Robinson’s Arch, reaching. out to the
Dung Gate. Mention of this road is made
in the Norman Chronicle,* and parts of the
pavement still exist, and also a drain running
underneath it: houses built near this pave-
ment.
8. The houses and walls becoming ruins and débris,
filled the valley to its present height, which
at this point is 45 feet above lower pavement.
The Pasha would give me no assistance of any
kind, unless I entered into a written engagement not
to touch the Sanctuary walls; and as the very object
of my sojourn at Jerusalém was for the purpose of _
‘examining those’ walls, it was impossible to come to
terms on any common grounds,
We had a great number of visitors to see the ruins
of the old arch ; and several ladies were let down by
means of a chair, but they of course could not go any
lower than the pavement. On one or two occasions
we had some difficulties when the chair was not used,
as the close air and exertion made parties get faint,
and they had to be dragged up with the rope.
SUBURBAN GATES OF SECOND TEMPLE,
Gate of the Prophet.—In the west wall of the
Noble Sanctuary, about 270 feet from the south-west
angle, immediately under the Moor’s Gate, is an
enormous lintel, which, it appears, was first promi-
nently brought to notice in this century by Dr.
* Williams's “ Holy City.”
112 RECOVERY OF -JERUSALEM,
Barelay, of the United States, in his “ City of the
Great King.”
In 1866 Captain Wilson excavated to a depth of
about 25 feet in front of the north jamb of the gate
without reaching the stil. _He also explored a cistern
in the Sanctuary, which proved to be the continuation
of the Mosque el Burak, the two together forming
the passage leading from the Prophet's Gate to level
of Sanctuary.
A brief description of the lie of the ground at this
point may be necessary. The general level of the
Sanctuary is 2420 feet above the Mediterranean, but
near the Moor’s Gate it is 2416 feet. Immediately
outside this gate the general surface is about 2395
feet, and a ramp leads up to the gate from the ground
below. This ramp, near the wall, is formed by two
vaulted chambers, one over the other; in the lower
one the lintel can be seen. The height of the lintel
“is 6 feet 10 inches, the total length visible is 20 feet
l inch; the bottom is at a level of 2398 feet 5 inches,
being 5 feet 5 inches above the surface of the ground
at that point. The northern jamb of the gate can be
seen; it is flush with the northern side of the older
portion of the passage inside, which is here 18 feet
8 inches wide, and we may reasonably suppose the
gateway to be the samc width. The lintel would
then be 24 feet 8 inches in length.
The space below the lintel, forming the gateway,
between the two jambs, is built up in rough rubble,
with here and there a few cut stones. Immediately
above the lintel there are no courses of bevelled
stones; the masonry is modern, and the stones are
THE PRORHET'S GATE: | 113
small. At the Jews’ Wailing Place’ wae are. two *
courses of bevelled stones and four of squared stones
above the level of the top: ofthe lintel; but these all
terminate abruptly at about 12 feet from the gate.
An excavation was commenced.pere on 17th March,
1869. It was desirable to sink the shaft at some
distance from that of Captain Wilson, as where the
soil is very loose it is dangerous to work again in an
old excavation. We commenced’about 7 feet north
ofthe jamb of the gate alongside the Sanctuary wall.
About 5 feet below the surface we came upon a
lamp and a good deal of broken pottery, of-a dif
ferent description to what we had hitherto met
with, and bearing’ beantiful impressions of scrolls and
other devices. -At 14 feet a gallery was driven in to
south, until we reached the northern jamb of the
gateway, the soil being black and very loose. We
here came upon the shaft of Captain Wilson, and a
rush of earth came into our gallery. On looking up
into the void space a stone corbel was seen to be
built into the rubble masonry under the lintel... It-
roust, of course, have been placed there when the
gate was blocked up, and was probably for the
foundations of a house to rest on. I imagine that
the foundations of the vaulted chambers on which the
ramp leading to the Moor’s Gate is laid rest upon
similar corbels on the side near the Sanctuary wall.
' Having made secure the gallery where the rush
had taken place, a shaft was sunk down along the
northern jamb, through hard earth mixed with large
stones, some of them 2 feet long. At about 23 feet
from the surface the sill coursé was met with. ‘This
114 RECOVERY ‘OF JERUSALEM.
course, awesee is broken, so that it cannot be
said whether the top or bottom of it is the true sill
of the gate. The top is 28 feet 91 inches below the
lintel, and the bottom is 32 feet 1} inch below it.
We ‘now continued our shaft, and 9 inches below
the bottom of the sil] course came upon stone flagging,
forming the flat roof to a drain running along the
Sanctuary wall towards the south-west angle. This
drain is 2 feet 4 inches wide, and 5 feet 6 inches
high. It is the same drain which we found above the
pavement at Robinson’s Arch, and which we followed
up to the Prophet’s Gateway (see p.102). Men were
sent. to knock at the extremity of this drain from
Robinson’s ‘Arch, and they could be heard quite
plainly ; but we could not communicate through to
our shaft at the Prophet’s Gate, as rubbish had fallen
in and stopped up the passage.
Sinking through this drain, we came upon the top
of a wall, perpendicular to, and abutting on, the
Sanctuary wall, at 31 feet below the surface. We
first sunk to south of wall, and found ourselves in
heavy masonry; then sinking to north of jt, and
finding the face to be of well-dressed squared stones,
in courses, we continued our shaft alongside of it,
until at 66 feet 7 inches from the surface we passed
its foundations, We then continued along the
Sanctuary wall, and at 73 feet 7 inches struck the
rock, which is cut horizontally, and the bottom stone
of the Sanctuary wall is let into it.
For the last 30 feet we had passed through débris
composed of hard earth and broken cut stones, many
‘of them 3 inches by 2.inches by 1 foot 6 inches, On
THE PROPHET’S GATE. 15
tamping up, a gallery was driven to south, through
the wall abutting on to the Sanctuary, to a distance
of 8 feet, when it was found that it had been a
retaining wall, about 6 feet thick, there being no
southern face to it. From this it appears that the
road to the Prophet’s Gate from the Tyropeon
Valley may have been by means of a causeway,
raised 46 feet above the rock. Whether it may have
been solid or supported on arches is not apparent.
The Sanctuary wall has thus been bared toa depth
of 78 feet 6 inches from the bottom of the lintel of
the Prophet's Gate to the rock, and the stones are of
‘one appearance throughout, and are probably in situ.
There are twenty-six courses of drafted stones in all,
4wenty-two below the lintel, two on a level with the
lintel, and two above it. These two latter courses do
not now exist immediately above the lintel, but can
be seen a little further to the north at the Wailing
Place. Above these, again, are four courses of
aquared stones, without drafts, except in portion of
the fourth and lower course, at the farther end, near
the Hall of Justice, where drafts are to be seen.
It is interesting to compare the stones above
ground at the Wailing Place with those we have
bared beneath the ground at the Prophet's Gate,
and for this purpose a tabular form is annexed (see
Appendix), showing the height of each course in the
wall at this point, and the width of bevel or marginal
draft, and also the set-out of each stone.
_ The first course below the lintel is very much
worn, and is shown on Plate 12 Ordnance Survey, as
being 3 feet 2 inches in height. By taking it in
12
ue REOOVERY UF JERUSALEM.
aoatungtiod with the courses above and below, I find
_ it to be 3 feet 5 inches in height.
The stones we have laid bare are in a much higher
state of preservation than thosé at the Wailing
Place. It is curious that many of them are in good
order at the top and damaged at bottom.- oS
With one exception, we have found the top draft
to be a little broader than at the bottom, and this
we observed, algo, to be the case in the stones un-
covered on the ‘south and east faces of the Peneminny
wall. :
Gate of the Bath—Having failed to find any
entrance similar to the Prophet’s Gate in the west |
Sanctuary wall, south of Wilson’s Arch, I made a
search to north of that arch. Any examination here
is difficult, as the present surface outside is generally
about the same level as, or higher than, that of the
Sanctuary. :
Twenty feet to the south of the Gate of the Bath-
is-a large cistern (numbered xxx. on the Ordnance
Map), which was discovered and surveyed by Captain
Wilson: it runs east and west, and is shown as
piercing the Sanctuary wall, On plan it is singu-
. larly like the vaulted passage leading from the
Prophet’s Gate; it is of the same width, and runs
the same distance into the Sanctuary, but it does not
appear to turn round at the inner extremity, as the
other passage does,
It would be very interesting to ascertain whether
over this cistern (xxx.) there be a lintel similar to
that at the Prophet’s Gate.
. When examining the Sanctuary wall on the out-
GATE OF THE BATH. 117
side, in an Effendi’s house, I found a cistern which,
on examination, proved to be in direct prolongation
of cistern xxx., but not so wide. It was nearly
empty, and I was’ able to go down and measure it.
It is 34 feet 6 inches from surface of ground to
bottom ; width from north to south, nearly 12 feet;
and length from east to west, 14 feet 9 inches. On
.the south there is a recess, so that the Sanctuary
wall is exposed over a surface 28 feet in height and
12 feet in length, but it is for the most part covered
with plaster. At 22 feet from the bottom can be
seen the springing of a modern masonry arch, which
is apparently the western extremity of the vault of
cistern xxx. There are no signs of any lintel or
large stones, but the surface here is over 6 feet above
the general level of the Sanctuary, and the wall, free
of plaster, could only be seen to a depth of 12 feet
below the surface, that is to say, it could not be seen
so low down as the level of the upper bevelled course
at the Jews’ Wailing Place. It is very necessary
that the plaster covering the wall should be removed,
as by-so doing the wall would be bared to .a level
lower than the bottom of the lintel at the Prophet's
Gate:
- T am under the impression that this may be one
Suburban Gate, the Prophet's Gate being the other.
‘118 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
CHAPTER IV.
SOUTHERN WALL
_ Our researches here show that the portion of. the
wall to the west of the Double Gate is of a different
construction to, and more recent than, that to the west.
This is a matter.of very great importance, and,
combined with other results, appears to show the
impossibility of the "Temple having existed at the
south-west angle, as restored by Mr.. Fergusson and
others. : : ; :
The only solution of thé question I can see, is by ,
supposing the portion to the east.of the Double Gate
to ‘have formed the south wall of Solomon’s Palace,
and that to the west to have been added by Herod
when he enlarged the courts of the Temple.
The south wall of the Sanctuary area, 922 feet in
length, is broken into nearly three equal portions by:
the Triple Gate to east, 4nd the Double ot <Tyldah
Gate to west. At the present.¢ime the stfface of the _
ground runs nearly level from the south-west angle .
to the sill of the Triple Gate (2380 feet), and then
shelves.down about 22 feet to south-east dnglo; but
in earlier times the wall nresented - ware Vffeencca
SOUTH WALL OF SANCTUARY. . 119
appearance, for the rock of Mount Moriah, which is
found within a foot, of the sill of the Triple Gate,
shelves down rapidly to the south-east angle, falling
over 100 feet in 300., Towards the west from the
Triple Gate the rock falls more gently ; at the Double
Gate, whose-sill is on a level with that of the‘Triple
Gate, the fock is. probably at’a depth of 30 feet; it
then falls more rapidlyeto about 90 feet from the
south-west angle, where appears to be the bed of the
Tyropeon Valley—this point is 90 feet below the sill
of the Triple Gaté ; the rock now rises again rapidly
to west, having risen about 30 feet at the south-west
angle.
7 Pr om the deamination ‘of this south wall, in nine.
separate places, there appears to be no doubt that the
whole of the stones below the present surface are
bevelled or marginal-drafted, though the faces are
‘not all finely dressed; and that they are in situ,
although, as previously observed, the portion of the
wall to the west of the Double Gate appears less
ancient than the remainder.- :
: As the rock is found at the sill of the Triple Gate,
it follows that we can haye no course of-stone running
.through from “end to end below that level. The first
through course has its bed on a level with the sole of
the Triple Gate : it is nearly double the height of the
courses below,-being. from 5 feet 10. inches to 6 feet
in height... * - =
_ Letter, 2nd piste, 1868. —« The courses of
_stone in this ‘wall, with marginal drafts, usually run~
from 3 feet 6 inches to 3 feet 9 inches in height, but
between the Double or Huldah Gate and the Triple
* 120 ‘“... RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
Gate there is a course the height of which is from
5 feet 10 inches to 6 feet 1 inch; so far this is
described in Captain Wilsons 0. 8. notes. On a
recent examination of the south wall I found this
large course’ continued to the south-east angle, and
thence running north, along’ the east wall, for 24 feet.
“On the elevation it may be seen that the course
is unbroken between the Huldah and Triple Gates ;
_ thence to the Single Gate there is one stone in situ,
and from a point 70 feet from south-east angle to
the angle itself, the course again is in a good state
of preservation (see Ordnance Survey photograph
of south-east angle).
“Tdo not find that this has been made the subject
of remark in any existing work, and as it bears
directly upon the question of the unity of the south
Sanctuary wall, I add some further particulars.
“This course is nearly double the height of the other
‘ drafted” courses in the Sanctuary wall. Its base
is about 1 foot above the highest part of the rock of
Mount Moriah (where cut by the south front), and
consequently it is the first course in this front which
can run uninterruptedly from east to west. It exists
at present, more or less continuously, for 600 feet
west of south-east angle, but is not seen west of the
Haldah Gate. : :
* At the Triple Gate its bed is 15 to 30 inches above
what it is at the south-east angle, the line between
these two points being straight or only a very gentle
curve ; in other words, the course is not horizontal,
but has a fall from centre to flank of about 30 inches,
It is obvious that on account of the peculiar nature
GREAT COURSE IN SOUTH WALL. 121
of the: ground a considerable rise from flank to centre
in the courses would be required in order to avoid
offending the eye, and it is interesting to find the
courses so placed, whether from accident or design.
“The sill of the Priple Gate is level with the base
of this course, as are probably also those of: the
Huldah and Golden Gates. The sill of the Single
Gate is at a lower level, but this gate has all the
appearance of being quite a modern construction, the
entrance found 20 feet lower and immediately beneath
it going far to support the idea that this Single Gate
itself was not finished until after a considerable
‘amount of the present débris in Ophel had ac-
eurhulated. .
“ At the south-east angle, the corner stone of this
course weighs over one hundred tons, and though —
not the longest stone is certainly the heaviest visible
in the Sanctuary wall.”
Were the south wall of one construction, we ought
to find this large course running through west of the
Double Gate, but we have searched for it in vain.
At the first and second shafts it is difficult to deter-
mine whether the stones on a level with this great
course are drafted or not, and therefore they give no
information ; but at the third and fourth ‘we find
bevelled stones apparently still in situ, at a higher
- level than the great course, and yet we find no signs of
the great course itself. We have certainly a large stone
at the south-west angle, the longest (38 feet 9 inches)
at. present known, but it is only 3 feet 3 inches’ to
3 feet 6 inches in height, and its bed is about 4 fect
129 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
above that of the great course ; it is, then, apparent
that this eveat course did not reach go far as the south-
west angle, or, in other words, that this western portion
of the south wall is of a different construction to the
eastern. We find this again to be the case when we
examine the walls to their foundations, for at the
south-east angle and at the Single Gate we find the
wall springing from the rock, with the faces nicely
worked, while at the south-west angle, and for at least
213 feet to east of it, we find the stones up to a
certain level with beautiful marginal drafts, but with
rough-picked faces; and the line where these rough
stones end, and the smooth-faced stones commence, is
on a level nearly with the pavement on which the
débris of Robinson’s Arch rests. We have said that
the rough stones are found along the west wall under
Robinson’s Arch, up to the level of the pavement,
and it appears probable that they continue with the
pavement up to the Prophet's Gate. If so, it gives.
the impression that the portion of the wall west of the
Double Gate, and round by the south-west angle to the
Prophet’s Gate, was constructed after the Tyropeon
had commenced to fill up, and that the lower portion,
the rough stones below the pavement, were never
exposed to view. In Josephus (“ Wars,” v. v. 1), we
find: “ The lowest part of this was erected to the
height of 300 cubits, and in some places more,
yet did not the entire depth of the foundations appear,
for they brought earth and filled up the valleys, as
being desirous to make them on a level with the
narrow streets of the city.” This passage can only
apply to two sides of the Temple, the west and the
SEAL OF HAGGAI. 123
north, for on the south there is no valley near, and
on the east is the Kedron, the apparent bottom of
which is still considerably lower than the actual
bottom of the walls. Now it is just on the south-
western side (and north-eastern) that we find these
roughly-faced stones reaching up to a certain level;
and finding a hard, well-squared marble (mezzeh)
pavement also running along at that level, we may
fairly conclude that this was the line of surface at
some time after the construction of the south-west
angle; and we may also infer that it was the jirst
surface used after the south-west angle was completed,
and that the roughly-faced bevelled stones below
were never intended to be exposed to view.
At the south-east angle, and along the south walls
up to Triple Gate, we find the smooth-faced stones
are continued down ‘to the rock, and it appears that
when this portion of the wall was built there was a
débris at this point of only 12 feet in depth.
At the south-west angle, and for at least 90 feet
along the south wall, we have found a second and
less ancient pavement. It is about 20 feet above the
first pavement, and about 23 feet below the present
surface; it is nearly on a level with the sill of the
Prophet's Gateway, and with what appears to have
been an old surface under Wilson’s Arch. This
pavement appears to have been used after the
destruction of Robinson’s Arch, and before the
building of the present Wilson’s Arch.
It was under this pavement that the signet “ of
Haggai, the son of Shebaniah,”* was found in 1867;
124 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM,
and in another shaft at the south-west anglé we have
found several fragments of pottery at a depth of
about 5 feet below the pavement. Among the
fragments are several Greek lamps, one of which has
an inscription of Christian origin, similar to these on
lamps which have been’ considered to be -of the
third or fourth centuries. These fragments may, to
a certain extent, help us in ascertaining the age of
this pavement, No arrangement in the laying of,
these pieces of pottery was noticed : they had the
appearance of having been lying in the position in
which they were found when this upper pavément
was laid, and if so, we must suppose it to have been .
made after the third or fourth century. It appears
possible that’ this may have been the level of road-
way leading under Wilson’s Arch, and through the
present Dung -Gate, spoken of in the Norman
Chronicle (see Williams's “ Holy City ”); also there is
to be seen a line of road under Wilson’s Arch along the
west wall of the Haram area on the plan of Jerusalem
in the twelfth century given in Fergusson’s article on.’
Jerusalem (Smith’s “ Dictionary”), It has been ob-
served that the west wall of the Sanctuary at. Robin-
_80n’s Arch cuts through an ancient system of rock-
out water-ducts and tanks running along the western
side of the Tyropceon Valley. The long aqueduct,
which is described under shaft. 3, and which’ com-
mences abruptly at the south Sanctuary wall, was
found to.follow the bed of the Tyropeon for several.
hundred. feet, and was ptobably also cut through at
" the construction of this wall.
If we are to suppose that the roughly-faced stones_
OLD PAVEMENTS. 125
at the south-west angle were never exposed to view,
“we must presume also that the two apparent
voussoirs lying on the aqueduct under Robinson's
Arch belonged to a bridge which crossed the Tyro-
pwon Valley previous to the building of the
south-west angle of Sanctuary. It is to be remarked
with reference to the roughly-faced stones that their
- joints. and marginal drafts are quite as perfectly
wrought as those to be found on the stones whose
faces are finely worked.
_ On the west side of the Double Gate, drafted
stones are only to be seen above the surface within
90 feet of south-west angle. There are four courses
_ visible; they suddenly cease, and are succeeded
. between this point and the Double Gate by several
courses of large squared stones, which are jointed
on to the bevelled stones in a very irregular
manner, (See Captain Wilson’s Plates, 0.8.) The
top of these squared stones ends in a line with the
top of the upper bevelled stones, and above them
there are courses of stone of a smaller size. These
squared stones vary in height, some courses being
more than 4 feet; they are not laid very skilfully,
the lines of the horizontal joints having a wavy
‘appearance, and in one case a course commencing at
one end with a height of 4 feet, gradually runs out
in 200 feet to a height of 3 feet 4 inches. This,
. however, is not a feature confined to the newer or
squared work, it frequently occurs in the bevelled
stones; for example, the @pne at the south-west
angle, 38 feet 9 inches in length, is 3 feet 3 ixiches
high at northern end, 3 feet 4 inches at centre, and
3 feet 6 inches at south-west angle.
126 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
There appears to have been a considerable want
of attention in the reconstruction of the wall at the
south-west angle, for the joints between the squared
stones are found to act as weepers. The wall is.very
much disfigured by the deposit left by the running
water.
Tt is curious to find that from the Prophet’s Gate
to Wilson’s Arch, the drafted stones have their faces
finely worked, while to the south of the Prophet's
Gate there are stones at a higher Jevel which have
their faces quite rough ; and it only seems accounted
for by supposing that the wall at south-west angle is
of later date.
The present surface of the ground between the
south-west angle and the sole of the Triple Gate is
now nearly on a level (2380 feet), from thence it
shelves down to a level of 2356 at the south-east
angle. As previously observed, a great course of
stones runs between the south-east angle and Doublo
Gate, partly broken away in a few places: above
this great course no bevelled stones are to be seen
except a few, apparently im situ, just at the south-
east angle. As the bed of this great course is on a
level with the floor of the great vaulted substructures
inside the Sanctuary at south-east angle, it can
readily be seen that the original substructures are
not likely to have remained after the retaining walls
to east and south had been destroyed, and that,
therefore, the present substructures are likely to be
less ancient than the great course and lower portions
’ of the old wall, which still remain in situ.
A shaft was sunk, 90 feet from south-west angle,
exposing bottom of Tyropwon Valley.
DESCRIPTION OF COURSES. _ 197
'- The following is from the account which I wrote
at the time.
“ At 12 feet 6 inches from the surface a pavement
was found, stones of mezzeh, not regularly shaped,
general size 12 inches by 15 inches, well polished,
probably from wear. Below the pavement a kind of
conctete was sunk through, composed of stones,
bricks, and mortar, for a depth of 16 feet. From
28 feet 6 inches to 33 feet 6 inches loose stones and
shingle were met with, and after that large stones
were found 3 feet by 2 fect’6 inches by 2 feet, one of
which had a draft round it; also a wall of rubble
running north and south, and abutting on the
Sanctuary wall, stones about 2 feet cube.
“ The courses of the Sanctuary wall exposed are as
follow: the first three courses are similar to those
above ground at this point, that is, they are great
squared stones without drafts, in height about 3 feet
3 inches, The courses fourth to yinth appear to be
similar to those at the Jews’ Wailing Place, but the
first five are very much worn, though the draft can
ke distinguished, height 3 feet 9 inches. The face
of the ninth course projects 3 inches beyond the
draft. The tenth and remaining courses differ
from any seen above ground at the present day.
The faces of the stones appear as when they were
brought from the quarries, roughly dressed into
three faces, and projecting in some cases eighteen
inches beyond their drafts, which are about 4 inches
to 6 inches wide, and most beautifully worked.
The stones are fitted together in the most marvellous
manner. the joints being hardly discernible; a
128 RECOVERY. OF JERUSALEM.
section is enclosed, This work has been stoppeda |
day or two for want of wood, :
“At a depth of 22 feet was found the signet stone
of ‘Haggai, the son of Shebaniah;’ characters en-
graved in Hebrew of the transition period. Depth
excavated to Thursday, 10th October, 1867, 76 feet.
“On Friday, having arrived at a depth of 79 feet,
the men were breaking up a stone at the bottom of
the shaft. Suddenly the ground gave way, down
went the stone and the hammer, the men barely
saving themselves. Théy at once rushed up, and
told the sergeant they had found the bottomless. pit,
I went down to the spot and examined it, and, in
order that you may have an idea of the extent of
“our work, I will give you a description of our
descent. ane
“The shaft mouth is on the south side of. the
Sanctuary wall, nedr the south-west angle, among
‘the prickly pears; ‘beside it, to the east, lying
against the Sanctuary wall, is a large mass of
rubbish that has been brought up; while over the
mouth itself is a triangular gin with iron wheel
attached, with guy for running up the excavated
soil, Looking down the shaft, one sees that it is
lined for the first 20 feet with frames 4 feet 6 inches
in the clear; further down, the Sanctuary wall and
soil cut through is seen, and a man standing at what
appears to be the bottom. An order is given to this
man, who repeats it, and then, faintly, is heard a
sepulchral voice answering as it were from another
world. Reaching down to the man who is visible
" is a 34 feet rope-ladder, and, on descending by it,
BED OF THE TYROPGION. 129
does not touch by 4 feet. This ledge is the top of
a wall running north and south and abutting on the
Sanctuary wall; its east face just cuts the centre of
the shaft, which has to be canted off about two feet
towards the east, just where some large loose stones --
jut out inthe most disagreeable manner. Here five
more frames have been fixed to keep these stones
steady. On peering down from this ledge, one sees
the Sanctuary wall with its projecting courses until
they are lost in the darkness below, observing, also,
at the same time, that two sides of the shaft are cut
through the soil and are self-supporting. Now to
descend this second drop the ladder is again.
required ; accordingly, having told the man at
bottom to get under cover, it is lowered to the ledge,
from whence it is found that it does not reach to the
bottom by several feet. It is therefore lowered the
required distance, and one has to reach it by
climbing down hand over hand for about twelve feet.
On passing along, one notes the marvellous joints of
the Sanctuary wall stones, and also, probably, gets a
few blows on skull and knuckles from falling pebbles.
Just on reaching the bottom, one recollects there is
still a pit of unknown depth to be explored, and
cautiously straddles across it. Then can be seen that
one @irse in the Sanctuary wall, near the bottom, is
quite smooth all over, the stone being finely dressed,
all other courses being only well dressed round the
drafts; one also sees two stout boards lying against
the ‘Sanctuary wall, under which the men retire
whenever an accidental shower of stones renders
K
130° < RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM. ©
their position, dangerous. One is now at a depth
of 79 feet from the surface, and from here we com-
mence the exploring of the.‘ bottomless pit.’ After
dropping a rope down, we found that. it was-only
6 feet deep, though it looked black enough for any-
thing. Climbing down, we found ourselves in a
passage running south from the Sanctuary, 4. feet
high by 2 feet wide, and we explored this passage.
It is of rough rubble masonry, with flat stones at top
similar to the aqueduct from Triple Gate, but not so
carefully constructed. The floor and sides. are very _
muddy, as if water gathers there during the rainy ;
season.
“Tt struck me that it might be an overflow
aqueduct from the Temple, and that there might be
a water conduit underneath ; we scrambled along for
a long way on our feet, our skulls and spines coming
in unhappy contact with the passage roof; after
about 200 feet we found that the mud reached
higher up, and we had to crawl by means of elbows
and toes; gradually the passage got more and more
filled up, and our bodies could barely squeeze through,
and there did not appear sufficient air to support us
- for any length of time, so that having ad-anced
400. feet, we commenced a difficult retrograde
movement, having to get back half-way be’>re we
could turn our heads round. On arriving ™ the
mouth of the passage underneath the shaft, we spent
some time in examining the sides, but there is no
appearance of its having come under the Haram
wall. It seems to start suddenly, and I can only
suppose it to have been the examining-passage over
DESCRIPTION Of 7A SHAFT, ~ * 131
an aqueduer a coming from. the Temple, endl [a am
having the floor taken up to settle the question.
This passage is on a level with the foundations of
the Haram wall, which are rough-hewn stones—
perhaps rock—I cannot tell yet. The bottom is the
‘enormous distance of 85 feet below the surface of the
ground,
“Rock was found at 3 fect below the bed of the
aqueduct. “This is the lowest point in the Tyropaon
Valley along the south front of the Sanctuary wall.
“At 350 feet along passage, a branch gallery from
cast was fotmd, but it was impossible to clear out the
deposit, as this portion was only reached by crawling.
The owner of the soil began to worry about our
being so. long on his ground; I therefore have had
the shaft filled up, much to his disgust, as he had
begun to look upon it as an annuity.
‘We have sunk a shaft 350 feet to the south of
Sanctuary wall, and have had the good fortune, at a
depth of 60 feet, to drop directly upon our passage.
The fellahin were regularly scared when they broke
up a stone and found the passage with our well-
know1 broad arrow burnt black on the roof. The
passage is now being cleared out to the south,
“It appears to traverse the bed of the Tyropceon
Valles’; galleries were driven east and west, and the
rockoround to rise on each side. The passage was
cleared out for a total distance of 600 feet from
Sanctuary wall, and was then abandoned.
. “THis aqueduct appears to have existed before the
south-west angle of Sanctuary, and to have been cut
across, and rendered useless when the wall was built,”
K 2
132 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
GREAT PASSAGE UNDER THE SINGLE GATE.
A shaft was commenced 37 feet south of gate, and
at 22 feet a slab was found drafted on its under face ;
it was supposed to have covered a passage, but no
walls were seen: The shingle came running into this
shaft so fast that it had to be closed up, and another
one commenced at 14 feet south of Single Gate ;
struck the rock at 34 feet 6 inches; surface rugged.
For the first 20 feet the work was very difficult, the
material sunk through being composed of rough
stones and rubbish. The stones had to be broken up
in the shaft, and the concussion caused the loose
shingle to run like water. The workmen were
continually stopping until Sergeant Birtles could
come and set them going again. From 20 to
80 feet in depth the soil was very firm, of a dark
brown colour. The stones are generally rough
cubes from 9 inches to 18 inches, some are fragments
of dressed stone, melekeh, and a few are of mezzeh ;
some pieces of marble have been found.
Shaft filled up for 11 feet, and gallery driven to
Sanctuary wall.
Extract from Letter, 22nd October, 1867.—“ In a
former letter I stated that I believed there was
another system of vaults under the present vaults, at
south-east angle; and in a sketch at the same time I
showed a point where I expected the entrance would
be, under the Single Gate. I have been foiled once
or twice in getting to this point; first the shaft failed,
POSSIBLE PASSAGE FOR “THE BLOOD.” 188
till we could scrape together some gallery frames;
finally we drove the gallery to the point I had
indicated under the Single Gate, and on Wednesday,
to our great delight, the hoped-for entrance was
found. We were, however, both too ill to stay and
explore it, and I had it covered up again, Yesterday
we reopened it, and Sergeant Birtles set about
- getting out the débris. The entrance was into a
passage which appeared to be blocked up—suddenly
a crash, and the passage appeared clear and unen-
cumbered, but aftcr getting in Sergeant Birtles
brought down another fall, and was blocked up in
the passage without a light for two hours. It is
quite clear now, the rubbish having settled at the
bottom.* I send you a plan which I made yesterday.
immediately it was open; you will see that the
stones are of great size, one of them 15 feet long,
nearly all are bevelled and beautifully worked, but
some of them are only hammer-dressed. The passage
is 3 feet wide, and is perpendicular to south wall of
Sanctuary, running between the piers which support
the vaults above. After 60 feet the roof stones
di8appear. On the east there is a passage blocked
up, and also there is a second entrance above that by
which we got in. The roof is composed of large
stones, many of them bevelled, and laid flat on the
upper course of the passage wall. This upper course
is 4 feet in height, and at the bottom of it on each
side are the remains of a small aqueduct jutting out
* References to plans not published in the volume may be made
at*the Society’s Office, 9, Pall Mali East, where all Captain
Warren’s plans aro preserved.
184 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
from the wall, made of dark cement. The passage -is
probably from 12 feet to 18 feet high, its roof is
20 feet below the floor of Sanctuary vaults, or about
60 feet below the level of Sanctuary. At the point
B on plan, there are indications of there having
been a metal gate. A check, 10 inch cube, is cut in
one of the roof stones, and there is the mark of
abrasion on one of the stones, as if a metal door had
" swung against it; radius of swing about 13 inches,
“ At present I have no clue as to the use of this
passage.” ; fs
There are several very interesting points connected
with the Haram Area which this discovery has raised.
The Single and Triple Gates are nearly (within
.3 feet) on the same level as the floor within, on which
the bases of the piers rest (2379 feet), and this floor
- is 17 feet above the earth at the south-cast angle, and
80 feet above the rock at that point. That. this
‘should be filled up solid seems improbable; and it
seems more than likely that there is another system...
of older arches underneath those visible at present,
All the masonry and arches above the level of the
gates are comparatively modern.
The floor of these vaults is 107 feet above the rock
on the east side of the Sanctuary wall, at about
10 feet north of the south-east angle, and 41 below the
present level of the Sanctuary. Supposing the Great
Southern Portico to have been 50 feet in height,
this wall would not have been less than 200 fect in
height; but probably at this time 30 or 40 feet of -
the basement was covered up. -
SOUTH-BAST ANGLE OF SANCTUARY. . 135
CHAPTER V.
EASTERN SIDE OF THE SANCTUARY.
SOUTH-EAST ANGLE.
Letter of August, 1867.—* Galleries in western face of -
“Kedron Valley, below the Sanctuary.—Three separate
attempts were made to find the rock at an inter-
mediate point between the south-east angle and the
Kedron. First a gallery was driven about 70 feet
below the surface. At the south-east angle the
substance met with was a dry loose shingle, lying at
an angle of 30 degrees. The greatest difficulties
were experienced in driving this gallery. The
shingle, when it got a start, ran like water, and after
driving the gallery 47 feet, such an immense cavity
was formed above the frames, that, spite of its being
filed up with brushwood and straw, the shingle
eventually got the upper hand, and smashed in the
frames, and I considered it dangerous to proceed
with it,
' “No, 2.—An oblique gallery was tried at an angle
of 60 degrees, so as to be perpendicular to the layer
_ of shingle and also to the presumed lie of the rock.
After driving 14 feet, the shinglecommenced running
rapidly, and destroyed the frames.
186 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
“No. 3.—A perpendicular shaft was next at-
tempted, and sunk about 14 feet 6 inches, with like
results; the shingle (stone chippings, without a
particle of earth) being in character almost a fluid.”
“T'was so much struck with what I saw in several
of the wadies about Jerusalem, that I came to the
conclusion that there might be water flowing in the
Kedron undez the accumulation of rubbish. I wished
first to commence about 50 feet west of the present
valley, so as to strike the natural valley in the rock ;
but the loose shingle prevented this, and it was
considered wiser to follow the rock which crops up to
the surface on the east side of the valley. Accord-
ingly a shaft was sunk, due east of the south-east
angle of Sanctuary, and at a distance of 305 feet
from it in the present bed of the Kedron. At
20 feet we found ‘the yock falling to the west (see
section).”
' The work was discontinued for want of the
gallery-frames I was expecting from England; there
was no wood fit for the purpose in Jerusalem or
Jaffa.
In November, 1868, we were able to continue, and
at 65 feet found the true bed of the Kedron; at
240 feet from the south-east angle, and at (2171 feet)
a depth. of 383 feet below the present false bed.
There was no stream or running water in it; but
when the rains came on, the gallery at this point was
much damaged ; and it is apparent that at that time
the water flows along the true bed.
We now found a masonry wall, 3 feet thick, in .
front of us; and, breaking through this, began to
BED OF THE KEDRON. 137
ascend the hill gently for the first 60 feet from the
wall. Some roughly-rounded flints were found on
the rock. ,
The rock began to rise rapidly, and the work was
most difficult, as we found ourselves among loose
shingle which, when it rolled, carried everything
before it to the bottom of the gallery.
At 160 feet from the entrance the air became very
impure; but on going a little farther a rushing noise
was heard, which proved to be a stream of pure ‘air
circulating through the ground.
We now came to several masonry walls, ap-
parently for supporting terraces along the Kedron
bank, The heavy rains again obliged us to abandon
this work ; and when we commented again the rock
was found to rise so rapidly at 30° that it was
impossible to go up straight through the loose stones.
We tried zigzags; but were finally obliged to give
it up (February, 1868) when we were 175 feet from
the shaft-mouth, and 130 feet from the Sanctuary
wall.
In 1869 a gallery was driven down along the
rock for 35 feet; and, finding it to lie at the same
angle as it did below, I conclude it to be in one
line (see section).
Extract from Letter of December 22nd, 1868.— ,
“ After having examined the Ophel wall (described
‘p. 291), a shaft was commenced, November 14, 1868,
at about 20 feet south-east of south-east angle of the
Sanctuary.. The débris, sunk through is composed
principally of stone chippings, alternating with layers
of fat earth, and in some places rough stones about
138 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
a foot wide. On arriving at a depth of 53 feet
a gallery was driven in to the Sanctuary wall
passing through two rough masonry walls running
respectively north and south, and east and west.
The gallery reached the east wall of the Sanctuary
at about 6 feet north of the south-east angle, and
three letters in red paint were found on one of the
stones.
“ A gallery was then driven to the south-east angle,
and a shaft sunk ;. another character in red paint was
found on the wall while sinking the shaft...
“The rock (2277 feet) is about 10 feet lower than
ut 16 feet west of the south-east angle. It is very~
soft and much decayed, but appears to be mezzeh,
The corner-stone ig let into the rock apparently about
2 feet; it is well dressed and has an ordinary mar-
ginal draft of about 4 inches at the top. It shows
above the rock about 2 feet. The next course is
4 feet 3} inches in height, with an ordinary marginal
draft at bottom, but of only 1 inch in width at the
top. It is very roughly dressed within the draft.
The next or third course is 4 feet 23 inches in height,
with a draft below of 44 inches, but none above.
‘The character which I enclose lies on that part where
the draft should be. ’
' “The fourth course is 3. feet 74 inches in height,
with a shallow draft of 9 inches above; it is ottly on
this account different from any that are to be seen
above ground,
“The fifth course is similar in every respect to the
best specimens of stones found at the south-east angle
above the surface ; it is 3 feet 8 inches in height, and
PHGENI CIAN LETTERS. 139
on the second stone from the angle are the three
letters,
“These stones are in the most excellent preser-
vation, as perfect as.if they had: been cut yesterday.
They are very well dressed, but except.in the in-
‘stances which I have mentioned differ in nowise from
the perfect specimens above ground. The ‘marginal
drafts and about 2 inches round the projecting surface
have been picked over with an eight-toothed chisel,
about eight teeth tothe inch ; within this a ‘point’
or single-pointed chisel, has been used.
“The letters or characters are in red. paint,* ap-
' parently put on with a brush; the larger letters are
5. inches high. There are a few red splashes here
and there, as if the paint had dropped from ithe
brush. ‘The general impression resulting from the
examination of these marks is that they are the
quarry marks, and were made before the stones were
placed in situ. If this be the case, then.the stones
must have been dressed previously to their having
been brought from the quarries.
“The débris resting against the wall at this point is ”
composed of stone chippings, intermixed with some
black stuff looking like decomposed or charred wood.
The layers of the débris slope in towards the Haram
wall, instead of away from it. ;
“'Lhe colour of the paint is apparently vermilion ;
it easily rubs off when touched with the wetted
finger.”
January 22nd, 1869.—“ I have carefully tested the
'* See Quarterly Statement I1., Letter of Mr. Emanuel Deutsch,
dated April, 1869. 7
140 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM. |
angle of the base course, and find it to be 92° 35’, while
that at the surface I make 92° 5'. Captain Wilson, in
his notes, gives the general direction of the walls
92° 50’; the eastern wall is somewhat irregular, the
first 120 feet only being in a perfectly straight line
(excluding the offsets), after which there are several
slight bulges ; itis, however, very probable that the
courses below the present surface are in a straight line
for the first 260 feet to the north, as in that distance
the inaccuracies do not amount to more than a foot;
at this point there is a small postern on about the
same level as the Single Gate on south side; from .
this postern the wall takes a slight turn to the north-~
east, so that in 650 feet it is about 8 feet to east of a
line in production of the first 260 feet of the east
wall (see Ordnance Survey Plan 545).
ANCIENT JAR FOUND AT SOUTH-EAST ANGLE (IN THE ROCK).
“The rock at the south-east angle into which the
base course is let is very soft. At 3 feet to the east
REMARKABLE POSITION OF ANCIENT JAR. 141
of the angle a hole was found scooped out of the
rock, 1 foot across and 1 foot deep; on clearing the
earth out of it, a little earthenware jar was found,
standing upright, as though it had been purpésely
placed there.
‘A gallery was driven to the east from the angle
for about 8 feet, when the rock was found to slope
away at an angle of about one in nine; this
gallery was then tamped up, and a search was made
around the corner-stone for any means of getting
under it; at 4 feet north of the angle close to the
wall, the rock was found to be cut away in the form
of a semicircle or horseshoe, 2 feet wide and about
2 feet 8inches deep; dark mould was found in it;
on clearing it out it was found that the base course
rests upon very hard rock (mezzch), the soft rock
extending only to a depth of from 2 to 3 feet: the
base course is 3 feet 8 inches in height.
“ Upon the soft rock there rests an accumulation of
from 8 feet to 10 feet of a fat mould, abounding in
potsherds; this mould does not lie close up against
the Haram Wall, but is at top about 12 inches
from it, and gradually closes in to it; between it and
the wall is a wedge of stone chippings; it is quite
evident that when the wall was built, this 10 feet of
mould and pottery was in existence, that it was cut
through, and the soft rock also, for the purpose of
laying the stones on a solid foundation, and it is
probable that the horseshoe hole cut in the rock
(above mentioned) was for the purpose of allowing
the tackle to work when lowering the corner-stone
into its bed. The pottery found in the clay is
142 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
broken up into fragments, and no shapes can be
recognised; a long rusty iron nail was,:. however,
found, As this is the weather side of the Sanctuary,
and*as there is such a deep valley below, the débris
about here is less damp than in the Tyropeeon
Valley, and there is a much better chance of any
articles being preserved in it. One would expect
amidst all the chipping to find some broken tools, or
something of that sort; and it is most remarkable
that so little turns up of importance.
INCISED CHARACTERS.
“The layer of fat mould slopes to east at an angle
of about one in four, the layers of stone chip-
pings, &c., above, at an angle of one in three. I find
that the point where the layers slope down: towards
the wall is merely local, and that the general slope is
towards the east. A gallery has been driven along
the second course to north; the first stone is very
roughly dressed, and is 10 feet 6 inches long; the
second stone is 4 feet 9 inches in length; it is well
dressed and has the usual style of bevel : at about the
centre is a deeply-engraved mark, like the Greek H,
only that the horizontal line is about one-third of the
way up the upright lines, it is cut in above 3 inch:
ANCIENT CHARACTERS. 148
‘on the south lower corner is another engraving;
about the stone are many flourishes with red paint,
but whether they are monograms or merely “ fan-
tasia,” it is difficult to say; the stone, shortly after it
was uncovered, began to exude moisture, and it
would not be prudent to take a squeeze of the two
engraved marks until the paint is dry, as it easily
rubsoff.
“We are also driving a gallery along the wall to the
north at a higher level, baring courses 4 and 5. Two
more characters in red paint have been uncovered.
2
i
|
ne
SE: 7
STONE © OF SECOND COVRSE OF EASTERN WALL,
“Tt is curious that the third stone in the fifth
course is very roughly dressed within the bevel. It
‘ does not appear that these rough stones form any
pattern on: the wall, and one is almost led to suppose
that the builders were unable to find suitable dressed
stones for breaking joint, and had to take those that
were unfinished.
144 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
“There is a most beautifully dressed stone in third
course, but as it is between the two galleries, it would
be dangerous to examine it just now. ,
“On examining the chippings at the base of the
wall, I find they are in many cases rounded and un- .
like what would result from stone dressing, having
more the appearance of the backing used in the walls
at the present day in Palestine. Close up against
the wall is a small quantity of chips, but nothing to
prove that the stones were dressed after they were
laid; and the fact of horizontal drafts in adjoining
_ stones being altogether unlike is of itself sufficient to
lead one to suppose that the stones were finished at - -
the quarries.
“The third stone to north on second course was
uncovered last night, and on it are found, in red
paint, the marks, This stone has no draft at top,
but one of 13 inches at bottom. j
“Nazif Pasha was very anxious to know about the
‘marks of King Solomon’ on the wall, and I tried
to persuade him to come and see them, but he would
not hear of it. In his usual style of business, how-
ever, he directed one of the Mejelis to send a party
of Effendis to report upon them, without letting me
know about it. However, I got wind of the matter,
and was on the ground when the inspecting. officers
arrived. They were rather taken aback at finding
me there, They had a whole tribe of followers, as if
they were expecting resistance. I asked them if they
wanted to see me; but,no, they only had come to see
our excavations, Had they come by order of the
Pacha? After some hesitation they said they had, ~--
¢
VISIT OF EFFENDIS. 45 *
Then I said I would take them round to see every-
thing. I took them to some little shafts first, as I
did not want to have the trouble of lugging fainting
men up our deep ones, and after one or two trials
there was only one who would continue to go down,
and this man was a renegade Greek from Crete, the
same man who had threatened the men when acting
asadetective. I determined to give him a dose af
it, and took him: to the smaller shafts, increasing the
depth each time. When at last we got to the south-
east angle shaft, the only one at that time near the
Sanctuary wall, he was fairly beaten, but he would
‘not give in, and went down there also, the others -
waiting above and content to hear his reports. He
wanted to measure here, but this I would not allow
unless he declared himself to be a competent sur-
veyor, as I explained to hin that as he knew nothing
about it he might make out we were under the Sanc-
tuary when we were not. This he quite understood,
and gave up the idea of taking any measurements.
He had ‘by this time become so friendly that, when
I showed him the basement of the Sanctuary wall,
he declared I was only making fun of him, and told
those above that we had found a wall in front of
the Sanctuary, the wall of Solomon, quite distinct
from the present. wall. When I showed him the
paint-marks, he again thought I was poking my fun
at him, and, putting up his finger, rubbed off the tail
of a Q,and it became O; but in my excitement I
tumbled him over, and he became aware of the
‘enormity of his proceeding, and fearing some other
mishap might befal him, asked to be allowed to go up
“146 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
again. The party then went away to the Pacha,
saying that they were quite satisfied with what we
were doing; but I did not trust them, and I serit my
dragoman ‘to the Pacha with a message to ask if he
had really sent the Effendis to inspect, as they had
brought no authority, but he was also to find means
to stop in the room until they came to make their -
xeport, so that they might not play me false, They
were taken again aback at finding my dragoman in
beforehand with the Pacha, and were obliged to
make a most favourable report. We were thus
enabled to get on with this shaft at the same time .
that there was still the Pacha’s letter at the. Con-
sulate that Iwas not to ‘come near’ the Sanctuary
wall.
“Our finding of these marks attracted a good deal
of attention both among the inhabitants and visitors,
and a great number of Europeans were taken down
the shaft (see illustration heading’ Chapter.I.); for
those who were feeble, and for the ladies, we had a
chair rigged up, and they were let down easy ; others
had to climb down the rope ladders with a rope
slung round them to avoid any accident.”
The illustration heading, Chapter I., gives a very
clear idea of the enormous depth of the Sanctuary
wall and its appearance at the bottom. For the sake
of showing the stones the division between the two
galleries is not shown, and the shaft is made a few
feet. deeper than what it actually was, so as to open
on the lower gallery instead of the upper. Visitors,
however, were slung down shafts deeper than that
shown in the illustration.
~
QUARRY MARKS. . 147 *
The lower gallery exposed the whole of the second
course and the upper part of first and lower part of
second ; the latter was found to be sunk partially in
“GALLERY AT SOUTH-EAST CORNER UF SANCTUARY.
the rock at the south-east angle, but as we proceeded
to north it was found to be let in entirely into the
rock until at about 41 feet it ceased, the rock rising
abruptly, and the second course being let into it.
There are drafts on the upper portion of the first
course ; on the second course there are drafts, but
somewhat peculiar, for on the second stone from
angle, on which are the marks H J, the upper draft is
L 2
148 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
8h aitehes wide, while the lower draft z only lf
inches. In the third stone C (page 143) there is io
upper draft, but the lower is 163 inches wide; and
+ again on the fourth stone the upper.draft is 12
inches, the lower could not be seen; the remaining
stones of this course have the ordinary drafts 3 to 4
inches wide.
_ The third course . has ordinary drafts; on the
corner stone is a mark in red paint like a 4 reversed,
the second stone is cut in a very superior style; the
third, fourth, and fifth stones have a few faint red
paint-marks on them, and the sixth stone has another
H engraved. These four courses are sunk in the
bed of rich Ioam, and were cvidently never scen
after they were laid. The fifth course is laid with
more regularity, but no marks were seen, On the
sixth course there are red paint-marks on ‘nearly
every stone; on the first none, on the second the
O Y Q, which is supposed to be some numeral; on
three to nine are single paint characters at left-hand
top corner; on the tenth there are a great number of
flourishes in red paint, and on the eleventh occurs
something curious: the face projects about 4-inch |
too much, and has been worked down over about
half its surface, on the raised part is a + cut in the. .
stone, two straight lines perpendicular to each other;
on the worked face is a painted + much larger, and
with a bend down at right end of horizontal stroke.
Many of the other stones in this course have
characters on. them, the whole of which were care-
‘fully traced and are to be seen in the office of the
Palestine Exploration Fund. Rock was found to
RED PAINT MARKS. 149
crop’ up ‘abeanily in this gallery at 76 fist tion
south-east angle, and work was stopped here 25th
January, 1869.° The gallery itself, however, was
kept open for the sake of visitors until nearly a year
afterwards, when the gallery gave way in so many
places that it was necessary to tamp it up.
In the upper gallery the remains of a semicircular
pilaster were found 2 feet 2 inches in diameter. In
the débris a good deal of black stuff was found,
having the appearance of charred wood: it was sent
to England.
A gallery was also driven January, 1869, round
the angle of the wall to east, when the rock was
found to rise very rapidly, cutting the fourth course
at 15 feet from the angle. On this course two red
paint-marks were found, L’s overturned and _re-
versed : the rock now rose very rapidly, striking the
top. of sixth course at 18 feet from angle. On
arriving at this point a shower of old baskets and
rotten wood saluted the astonished faces of the
workmen ; we had arrived at the bottom of the first
gallery driven to the Sanctuary wall, alongside’ the
wall. of Ophel; the stone of the 6 feet course is
-]ét into the rock at its western end, and is 20 feet
long. *
It is to be noticed that the batter of the Sanctuary
wall on its west side is greater here than it is on its
south side ; that is to say, on the west each stone is
set back about 3 to 4 inches behind that on which it
rests, on the south side about 1 inch. 2
- The Ophel wall appears to have been built upon
the layer of rich*loam overlying the rock, and not
150 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
to have been based on the rock, at any rate a this
point, so that we were able to go under it along the
rock. ; ;
Our work at the south-east angle was not resumed
until the spring of 1870, when it became a question
as to whether the masonry there might not be built
in the same style as it is at the north-west angle.
Details —Commencing from our old shaft at south-
east angle, a gallery was driven on the Sanctuary
wall, striking it at 32 feet north of south-east angle,
and at a level of 2312 feet; the excavated earth was
used for tamping up the galleries below. The course
struck is 3 feet 8 inches in height, drafted and faced
as is the wall on the surface: after running along
for 32 feet 3 inches, the height of course increased
to 4 feet 24 inches; by being let down into the
course below, this continues up to 108 feet from
south-east angle, where there appears to be a break
in the wall; that is to say, the course in continuation
is only 3 feet 33 inches in height, and its bed is
1 foot 10 inches above the course we had been
running along; there appears to bea straight joint
here through three courses, but of this we could not
be certain, as the soil we were working through was
of too friable a nature to allow of a close exami-
nation above and below; it is to be observed that
there is a break in the wall above ground at 105 feet
6 inches from the south-east angle, where the smooth-*
faced stones terminate, and the projecting faced
stones begin, and as this is the case also at the
, . point, in the gallery above mentioned, it appears
probable that the break runs all the way up.
DETAILS OF WORK. 151
~. We continued along the projecting-faced stones in
the wall, until at 133 feet from angle, there is a rise
in the bed of the course of 4 inches; and at 161 feet
9 inches from the south-east angle, or 129 feet
9 inches from the point we struck the wall, rock was
encountered, rising to the north and cut out for the
reception of the ‘stones. At the break in the wall
a strong gush of wind issued during the east wind,
but not during the west.
The face of the tower at the north-cast angle is
84 feet i in length; and the north end of Robinson’s
Arch is 89 feet from the south-west angle, so that
therg does not appear to be any particular similarity
in the dimensions at the three angles.
The northern end of the skewback (?) on the east
side of wall is just where the break occurs, A
gallery was now driven to east, so as just to catch the
eid. of the pier if it ever existed; but nothing was
to ke found as far as fifty feet from the Sanctuary
wall, and the span of the arch as calculated onght
to ibe about 27 feet.
‘Another gallery was now driven from this last: to
south, at a distance of 30 feet from, and parallel to
the ‘Sanctuary wall, for 14 feet, and then small
branches from the end run east and west for 10 feet,
put ho signs of any pier, and the galleries were
tampéd up. ;
We were not very far from the rock when search-
ing for this pier, but not quite on it; it cannot
therefore be said for certain that there was no pier
for a bridge at this point, but the probabilities are
against it.
PHGNICIAN POTTERY. - B38
' The last excavation along the east side of the
Sanctuary wall was commenced 300 feet south of the
Golden Gate, and on the east of the cemetery, for the
purpose of examining the wall somewhere in the 600
feet south of the Golden Gate, where I suppose the
ancient temple wall of King Solomon still to exist..
When we got to within 60 feet of the Sanctuary wall
the shingle became too loose for working in, and we
were obliged to desist. I consider the examination
of this portion of the wall to be one of the most
important investigations still required at Jerusalem.
11th May, 1869. Golden Gate— The Golden Gate
occupies a position in the east Sanctuary wall, where
an examination below thé surface would probably
afford. much valuable information. Unhappily, the
greater portion of this east wall is lined with
Mahometan tombs, and we were precluded from
digging’ near them. It is true that a shaft could be
sunk. through the cemetery without in any way
interfering with the graves, but it is very doubtful
whether permission for this could be obtained.
“Tt does not appear that there is any real feeling
on the subject, as we find on all sides tombs, Jewish,
Christian, and Mahometan, used as dwelling-places
and stables by the people of the country, and sarco-
phagi used as watering+troughs; but there is a
certain amount of sentiment involved, and the same
people who see no harm in the destruction of tombs
while quarrying, in using them as stables, and in
building the tombstones into their houses, think it
desecration for a Frank in any way to examine these
interesting relies.
4 + RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
“Tt being desirable, then, to examine the wall at the
Golden Gate, the only method was to sink a shaft at
some distance off and drive a gallery up, so as to ‘be
altogether out of the way of the cemetery. (See
plan 39.)
“The nearest convenient point was found to be 143
feet from the south end of the gate, and ina line
perpendicular to its front, in a piece of ground
through which a shaft was sunk in 1867.
“This point was found to be 55 feet 6 inches below
the level of the ground outside the gate. The shaft
was commenced 25th January, 1869, and sunk down
25 feet 6 inches, giving a total difference of level-
between the ground outside the gate and the bottom
of the shaft of 81 feet.
“ Soil—First 8 feet, loam mixed with small shingle ;
from 8 feet to 13 feet in depth the shaft passed
through stone packing 9 inches to 12 inches cube;
from 13 feet to 18 feet good solid dark brown loam ;
from 18 feet to 22 feet 6 inches, stone packing again ;
22 feet 6 inches to 26 feet 9 inches, loam mixed with
stones.
“A gallery was then driven in to west, and at
10 feet 3 inches the rock was struck, rising about one
in four to the west; the gallery then rose gently
with the rock until at 18 feet 6 inches a tank or
rock-cut tomb was crossed. The examination of this
was reserved, and the gallery continued, until at
27 feet the rock was found to present a cut searp of
3 feet 9 inches height, on the south side, running in
a north-westerly direction, the natural surface of the
rock inclining to the north. The scarped rock was..
GOLDEN GATE. 155
followed for over 10 feet, when it suddenly took a
turn to north, and it was necessary to. cross over it.
On top of the scarp a rough masonry wall was found,
which was broken through, At this point, 37 feet
from the shaft, the total rise in the gallery was
8 feet.
“The rock is mezzeh, and on the scarp, about
2 feet. 10 inches from the bottom, was found a hole
cut for passing a rope through, similar to those
found in the cavern south of the Triple Gate (page
302). This ring or hole was apparently for tying up
animals to,
“The gallery was now continued on a gradual rise
through a loose and dangerous accumulation of
stones. At 47 feet the rock was found to rise
suddenly to a height of 4 feet, and at 53 feet another
rough masonry wall was encountered and broken
through. At 68 feet a portion of the shaft of a
column (3 feet in diameter) was met with, placed
erect in the débris, and about 3 feet above the rock,
(See woodcut.) On the bottom of this shaft’ of
column are what appear to be masons’ marks.
“From this point forward the work became very
dangerous, the gallery being driven through a mass
~ of loose boulders alternating with layers of shingle,
: which on being set in motion runs like water.
“ At 85 feet from the shatt, the gallery had ascended
25 feet 6 inches. The débris now began to run into
the gallery, forming a cavity above; and to prevent
_ further falls fifty old baskets were stuffed in, and a
quantity of old timber. After a considerable amount
Nl a Coe ge
REMAINS OF A COLUMN, 157
‘the gallery had become in a highly dangerous state.
I therefore had it tamped up, leaving in all the
frames for about 30 feet.
“The tamping up was continued as far as the
hanging column, and at the same time a branch
gallery was driven to north from a point immediately
east of the column. At 14 feet it was turned in to
the west (see plan s3,). It was found that there
was here about 3 feet of solid earth between the
debris and the rock, and by very careful management
the gallery was driven on for 34 feet from the turn,
At this point the massive wall was again met with,
aunning in a north-westerly direction; the gallery
sel along it, but the layer of solid earth
grauually diminished in thickness, until on the 28th
April, when 55 feet from the turn, the shingle
suddenly came in with a rush, quickly filling up
6 feet of the gallery, and burying some of the tools.
An attempt to remove this shingle was of no avail;
when touched it only ran farther into the gallery,
and I have, very reluctantly, been obliged to abandon
the work.
“ Although we have not succeeded in our object at
_this point, we have at least obtained some interesting
results. ;
“1. It is now nearly certain that at the Golden
Gate the Sanctuary wall extends below the present
surface outside, to a depth of from 30 feet to
40 feet (sce section 544).
“2. It appears that the rock has an inclination to
the north near the Golden Gate.
“3. The massive wall where first encountered is
158 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
about 50 feet in front of the Golden Gate. It
appears from thence to run to north and gradually
turns in to west, apparently following the contour
of the ground,
“This wall is composed of large quarry-dressed
blocks of mezzeh, so far similar to the lower course
seen in the Sanctuary wall near the Golden Gate,
that the roughly-dressed faces of the stones project
about 6 inches beyond the marginal drafts, which
are very rough. The stones appear to be in courses
2 feet 6 inches in height, and over 5 feet in length.
On trying to break through the wall a hole was made
5 feet 6 inches, without any signs of the stones:
terminating, The horizontal joints are not-cle
appear to be about 12 inches apart, and filled in witn
stones 6 inches cube, packed in a very curious
cement, which now looks like an argillaceous stone
and has a conchoidal fracture. The fellabin pro-
‘nounce it to be formed of lime, oil, and the virgin
red earth, and state that such is used at the present
day in the formation of cisterns. Specimens of this
cement have been sent home. ,
“Tt is disagreeable to have failed in reaching oe
Golden Gate, but to pierce through the débris of the
nature encountered, some special machinery would
have to be used; and it is dangerous to put anything
but the simplest instruments into the hands of the
fellahin.
“ We also cannot work more than a certain number
of days at a time at a difficult place, as the constant.
danger causes the nerves to become unstrung after a
time, and then a few days at safer work is required ;
NORTH-EAST ANGLE. 159
--only those who have experienced the peculiar effect
of the rattling of the débris upon the frames, with the
prospect at any moment of the boards being crushed
in by a large stone, can appreciate the deterring
influence it has upon the workmen. The non-com-
missioned officers have to keep continually to the
front, or the men will not venture up.
' “Jt appears probable that the massive wall met
with may continue up to the surface, as immediately
above it, in the road, are some large roughly-bevelled
stones lying in the same line.”
NORTH-EAST ANGLE OF SANCTUARY.
Extract from Letter of May 31st, 1869,—* Though
it would not be right at present to form a perma-
nent theory on any of the disputed points, yet it is
impossible not, and in fact most necessary, to look
ahead and conjecture what we are likely to come
across, for without so doing the excavating must
degenerate into a wild probing of the ground, instead
of a systematic investigation. And though in the
following brief account I find it necessary to couple
conjecture with fact, in order to give any idea of
what our results are, and to what they tend, yet I do
so with the knowledge that each day my views must
be modified by the accumulation of fresh results, and
they must go on changing until by patient search we
can speak with certainty of the ruins of ancient
Jerusalem. I may quote, in illustration of this, my
letters ‘of the Ist and 2nd February, 1869, in which
Caen Ween (Gk ee as ne,
160 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
the western side of the Birket Israil (so-called Pool of
Bethesda). I was fully impressed with the idea that
on the eastern side, the valley running south from the
Harat Bab Hytta ran out into the Kedron, after
having been joined by the valley, which I conjecture
to run east from the Gate of the Inspector, north of
the platform of the Dome of the Rock. Also, in my
letter of December 28th, I put the question, ‘ Are we
to suppose this gate (of our Lady Mary) elevated
100 feet above the bottom of the wall, or. does the
rock break down suddenly from the gate towards the
south, so as to form a deep gorge in which the pool
is built ? .
“Tn order to settle this question I sunk shafts on
either side of the Gate of St. Stephen (of our Lady
Mary), and also near the road leading down to the
Church of the Tomb of the Virgin, and find that the
roadway at the ‘gate is about 20 feet above the rock,
and that going down the hill the accumulation of
débris decreases from 25 feet in height to 2 feet or
3 feet. This threw considerable light upon the subject,
showing that there has been no great destruction of
extensive building so far north as this gate, and that
the spur of the hill running from the Burj Laklah to
the Birket Sitti Miriam still continues to the south,
Shafts were then sunk to east of the Birket Israil,
and rock was found at a depth of 50 feet from the
surface, being higher than the bottom of the Birket
Israil by 40 feet. As we find the natural rock in the
Birket to the west at a little below this level, we are
forced to the conclusion that the valley running south
does not sharp round to the east in this pool, but
THEORY OF DE voatié. 161
‘runs on through the en and issues into the
Kedron somewhat north of the Golden Gate.
“T have placed on the accompanying plan the con-
jectural lie of this valley. That it is an important:
matter there can be no doubt, for on the proving ot
it may hang the destinies of most of the theories con-
cerning the site of the ancient Temple.
“It is very desirable just now that we should
proceed with the work with unabated vigour, and
bring the question of the Haram inclosure toa proper
conclusion, A few more months’ work here, and we
may go forward confidently, and find the old walls
’ of the city, having fixed the site of the Temple.
“We expend a great deal of wood in the shafts
and galleries on the east side of the Sanctuary. The
shingle we pass through is often of such a nature that
the frames cannot be taken out again. If it is
possible to get up to the north-east angle, I propose
examining it very minutely. We find the wall joining
it to St. Stephen’s Gate to rest several feet above the
rock, thé intervening ‘space being partially filled up
with concrete, and in one place at least the wail rests
on the red earth. It is apparent that this wall is of
no very ancient date.
“ Of the city wall to the east, this north-east angle
of the Sanctuary is the first sign from the northern
end of anything ancient in appearance, and it will
now be very necessary to ascertain whether the whole
wall of the Sanctuary to the east is built from the
rock with drafted stones; if it is, we can hardly
doubt that the theory of De Vogiié is correct, and
that the Sanctuary is. one vast platform of ancient .
162° RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
date: if, on the other hand, ‘we find’the drafted
stones in the north-east angle only extend under
‘ground ds far south as they do‘on the surface, then.
‘we have the interesting - problem whether this has.
been a, tower, whether of Hananeel, as Dr. Barclay
‘supposes, or df Meah or the House of. the Mighty
_(Nehem, ii, 1, 16°; xii. 39), For if it should be decided
that the Sanctuary walt at the south-east angle is of
the time of the Jewish kings, wé can scarcely give a
more recent date to this wall at the north-east angle,
provided we find it to be built up of drafted ‘stones
drafted from the rock.” x
(Subsequent research proved the sbatias to be
drafted, but with bulging faces ‘totally unlike - those’
found at the southeeast angle.) j
“We struck the Sanctuary wall about 18 feet.
south of the north-east angle, and at a depth of about
42 feet below the surface. We then turned north,
and ran along the Sanctuary wall for ‘26 feet
without finding any angle similar to that above.
At this point a slit about 18 inches wide and
4 inches high was observed in the Sanctuary wall,.
formed by cutting out parts of the upper and lower
beds of two courses. A stone, dropped down this
slit, rolled rattling away for several feet.
- “Tt was some time before I could believe that we
had really passed to the north of the north-east
angle; but there can now be no- doubt of it, and
that the ancient wall below the surface runs’ several
feet to the north of the north-east angle without
break of any kind.
“Tf the portions above ground are in situ, it would
OVERFLOW PASSAGE AT BIRKET ISRAIL. 168
re a
appear that’ this angle is a portion of ‘an ancient
tower reaching above the old city wall, probably
somewhat similar to the view De Vogiié gives of it
(Plate XVL, “ Le Temple de Jérusalem ”),
“We. have this morning examined. the glit, mens.
_ tioned above,. At first it was impossible: to aqueese'
through, but after a few hours it became ° easier,-
; ihough it is now only 7 inchés in height.
“The passage in from this slit is difficult to describe t
the roof falls by steps, ‘but the floor is 4 very steep
smooth incline, falling’12 feet in 114 feet, like the
slit and shoot for letters at a post-office. The shoot
ends abruptly, passing through the roof of a passage,
This passage runs east and west; it is 3 feet 9 inches.
high, and about 2 feet wide; it runs nearly horizon-
tally, and at its eastern end opens out through the
Sanctuary wall. At-the ‘western end it goes (by
measurement) to the east end of the Birket Israil,
but is closed up by a perforated stone. This
passage is 46 feet in length. On the south side of
it, a little to the west of the shaft, is a staircase cut
in the masonty, and running apparently to the.
surface, but it is jammed up with stones. The roof
of the passage is about 48 feet below the surface..
The stones forming it are of great size, but do not
show large in comparison with those of the sides,
which are from 14 feet to 18 feet in length, and
vary from 3 feet’ 10 inches to 4 feet 6 inches in
height." To the west of the staircase the bottom of
the passage slopes down rapidly, so that in one place
it is 12 feet in height. The roof ‘also is stepped
down 4 feet, about eleven feet from the western end.
mM 2
164, RECOVERY ‘OF JERUSALEM.
“ Altogether this passage bears a great resemblance
to that which we found under the Single Gate,
October, 1867.
“ At the eastern end, where the passage opens out
through the Sanctuary wall, a rough masonry
shaft has been built round,.so that we-.can see a few
feet up the wall, and about 7 feet down it below the
sole of the gallery. It is evident that here there has
been some tinkering at a comparatively modern
date. : 6%
“In the course forming the sole of: the’ passage
there is % water-duct leading through the Sanctuary
wall, about 5 inches square, very nicely cut; but in
the next’ course, lower, a great irregular hole has
been knocked out of the wall, so as to allow the
water to pass through at a slightly lower level, and
so run into an aqueduct 9 inches wide and 2 feet
high, which commences at this point, and runs
nearly due east from the Sanctuary wall. All this
hotching and tinkering looks as though it had been
done quite recently, and the workmen’ have left
their mark on the wall in-the shape:of: a-.Christian
cross, of the type used by the early Christians, or
during the Byzantine period.
“ At the farther end of the passage, to west, the
same large massive stones are seen until the eye
rests upon a large perforated stone closing it up.
This is the first approach we have yet found to any
_ architectural remains about these old walls; and
though it merely shows us the kind of labour be-
stowed upon a concealed overflow aqueduct, still it
has a bold and pleasing effect, and until something
PERFORATED STONE. 165
else is found, will hold: its own as some indication of
the style of building at an early period.
“Tt consists simply of a stone closing up the end of
the passage, with a recess or alcove cut in it 4 inches
deep. Within this recess are three cylindrical holes
NEWLY-DISUOVERED PASSAGE IN THE OLD WALL OF HARAM AREA.
54 inches in diameter, the lines joining their centres
forming the sides of an equilateral triangle, (See
Illustration.) Below this appears once to haye been
a basin to collect the water; but whatever has beer
' . there, it has been violently removed, It appears to
me probable that the troops defending this portion of
166 . RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
the wall came down the staircase into this passage to
- obtain water. :
* At first sight this passage appears to be cut in the
rock, as, stalactites have. formed all-over it, and hang
gracefully from every joint, giving the place & .very
picturesque appearance. It seems probablé that we
are here’some 20 feet above the rock.
“There: can be little doubt that this is an ancient
overflow from the Birket Israil, which‘ could not_at
that “time have risen above this. height,. about
2350. feet, or 25 feet above the present bottom of thd
pool, and 60 feet below the present top of the pool.
“Tt is also apparent that the Birkct Israil has Been
half full and overflowing during the Christian period,
and that for ‘some purpose or other the water was
' carried away by an, aqéduct to the Kedron Valley.
- Atthe present day, when. there is such a dearth of
running. water ip Jerusalem, it is rather mystifying”
' to find that within our’era the Birket Israil Bas pro-
bably been constantly full up to a certain point, and
flowing over.’
Letter of 18th August, 1869.—* We have now made
further progress at this angle, and have settled. several
points of considerable interest.
“1, We find that the tower (so-called Tower. of
Antonia) at the. north-east angle of the Sanctuary “
forms part of the main east wall, and, at near its
base, the wall and tower are flush, or in one line.
“9. ‘The wall-is built up of drafted stones from the
reck, but up to a certain height (nearly the same as
at Robhinson’s Arch) the etanec have ranoh farag
SUMMARY. : 167
“3. The inet, which is only 20 feet below. the surtaee
at the St. Stephen’s Gate, falls rapidly past the tower,
so that at the southern angle the wall is covered up
with débris to a depth of no less than 110 feet, and the
total height of the wall is over 150 feet.
“4, There is now no doubt that. the valley at the
Bab-az-Zahiré passes down through the: Birket Iprail .
into the Sanctuary, and thence out to the east between —
‘the north-east tower and the Golden Gate: and that
the platform of the Dome of the Rock is at least
165 feet above one’ part of the valley in the northern
part of the Sanctuary; .and also that the contour
’ trace showing the conjectural lie of theground'in the ~
northern part of the Sanctuary, forwarded in June,
appears to he nearly generally correct.
“5; Some characters in red paint have been found
on the bottom stones of the Haram wall under the _
southern end of this tower: a trace is inclosed.
“. 6, It appears probable that the four courses of
drafted stones of this tower, which appear above |
ground, are in situ, and also in the wall south of the
tower.
“7; ‘The faces of the stones below a certain line are
described as rough (in paragraph 2), but they are
quite unlike the roughly-faced stones at the south-
west angle. The faces-project from 2 to 20-inches or
more, presenting a very curious appearance.
“8, The stone used does not seem to be so compact.
and hard as that used at the south-east angle, and the
chisel working is not so carefully done. ~ :
“The manner in which the tower becomes flush with
the wall is very interesting: for the first 48 feet
168 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
above the rock it is one wall, the stones being care-
fully drafted, the faces projecting irregularly, on an
average 10 inches. The upper and lower parts of the
faces are horizontal, and the sides are vertical, so that
they in some instances present the appearance of one
cube stuck on to a larger one.
“The wall throughout this distance has a batter
formed by each course receding 43 inches from that
below ,it; the tower is formed by the portion
forming the wall continuing to recede from 4 to
7 inches, while that forming the tower only recedes
about 1} inch, so that at 70 feet from the bottom
(level of the gallery), and 22 feet from whence
the tower begins, the projection ‘is nearly 2 fect. If
this were continued at the same rate up to the surface
another 40 feet, it would give to the tower a projec-
tion very similar to what it has, viz., about 7 feet;
from this it would appear as though the upper were
in situ; but it is to be remarked that the stones in the
wall at the surface, and also in the gallery, have pro-
jecting faces ; and as the southernmost shaft was sunk
at the junction of the tower and wall, it yet remains
to be seen whether the wall throughout is composed
of stones with projecting faces, while the stones in
the tower are like those at the Wailing Place.
“Tt is also to be remarked that the level of the
point where the tower commences is only a short
distance below the surface at the south-east angle,
where there is a check in the wall as if just such
another tower were commencing.
“There is no straight joint between the tower and
wall at the north-east angle; it is one wall for the
NORTH-EAST ANGLE. 169
22 feet we have examined, and probably continues the
same up to the surface. Where the projection
increases to 2 feet, the stones are cut out to that
depth, but a few feet higher some other method must
have been adopted.
“T propose after the summer to drive the gallery
100 feet farther to the south along the wall, and then
to sink again in search of the bottom of the valley,
which is likely to be some 80 or 40 feet lower down :
as it is, this shaft at the angle of the tower is the
deepest yet sunk, the bottom being 110 feet below the
surface.
“T have left this shaft open, so that M. de Sauley
may have an opportunity of examining the wall if he
arrives in time.”
Report of 13th December, 1869.—-Excavations at the
north-east angle of the Sanctuary—“The general
results of these shafts have already been noticed, and
now the details of the working are given.
“In commencing work here we were completely in
the dark as to the nature of the rock below the
surface; we certainly were aware of the valley
running down from the Bab-az-Zahiré, but it was
generally supposed to run out through the Birket
Israil, turning sharp to the east, as shown in the
Ordnance Survey Plan 1:10,000, instead of con-
tinuing in a south-easterly direction through the
north-east corner of Haram Area, as our excavations
have shown it to do: we therefore found it necessary
to sink several shafts so as to completely mark out the
present lie of the rock: and it is to be remembered
170 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
that the present lie of the rock gives very nearly the
features of the ground as they appeared in early
times, for it can hardly be doubted but that in those
times the rock about here was nearly bare ; covered
at the most with 2 feet or 3 feet of red earth, |
“Wherever we have excavated we have found the’
rock at bottom of our shafts to be cut away in steps,
‘or levelled, or otherwise showing that the hand of
man had been applied to it; and on this rock we .
‘generally find’ 2 feet or 3 feet of red earth’ (the
natural colour of the soil of this part), and.all above
it is stone-chippings and shingle mixed up with pieces |
of red pottery, or black earth formed of rubbish from
the city.
“One important point these excavations have esta=
blished, viz. :—that outside the city wall on east to
north of St. Stephen’s Gate there are only a few feet
of débris, and often. none at all, while immediately
south of-it, and -indeed all along to, the south-dast’
angle, the débris-varies in depth from 50 to over
100 feet; this rather implies that to the north of this
gate there has been very little: destruction of old
walls,
“ Another important point with regard to the city: “
wall at this gate issthat the present wall only goed
down for 10 feet below the surface, and there rests
upon 10 feet of cortcrete, which again is .on the
rock, and that there is nd appearance of an older
wall.
“From this it would appear that the St. Stephen’s
ate may not stand upon the site of the old wall;
and the lin&' of bevelled atones found in drain at shaft
“OVERFLOW AQUEDUCT. 171
No. 10 may mark the place where the old wall turned
in to the west. This idea is rather confirmed by our
finding the Sanctuary wall running north from the
north-east angle-for at least 64 feet, so that if it con-
- tinued far enough in the same straight line, it would
lie under the St. Stepben’s Gate nearly.
“ We come now to a.question of very great interest 7
-in the East Sanctuary wall north of the north-east °
angle. We found an overflow aqueduct at a level of
2341 feet, while the present level of the Sanctuary at
same angle is 2410 feet. This aqueduct forms part
of the old Sanctuary wall as seen at this angle, and
every detail about it points to its having been used
as a fountain or overflow aquedtct, and not as a
floodgate ; and if we admit this, we must suppose the
' water in the Birket Israil to have stood at the highest
at 2343 feet at the time the present north-east angle
and north-east ‘portion of Sanctuary wall was built.
If this be so, and if we might suppose the present
northern end of the Sanctuary to have been built up
to same height as it-does at present, when this north-
eastern wall was built, then-we ought to find southern
side of the Birket Israil built up of the same kind of
blocks as this wall.
“ Now we find the inside of the Birket Israil faced
- with stone and plaster, so as to act as a tank up
nearly to the level of the Sanctuary Area, and what
may be the true face of the north Sanctuary wall may
‘thus be covered up. The removal of a few stones
here might settle this question. This. oon may
thus be described.
“Some authorities make the limits of Herod's .
172 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
Temple to have extended up to Birket Israil on north ;
now we have found the northern part of east wall to be
apparently in situ, whether it be the wall of Solomon,
Herod, og Herod Agrippa. If of Herod then the
south side of Birket Israil should also be of like
stones,
“Tn shaft No. 11 we have found a massive wall of
bevelled stones, apparently not in situ. This may
have been at a later period the line of the city. wall ;
certainly it appears to be later than the aqueduct
which it cuts in two, and which appears to run up to
St, Stephen’s Gate, shaft No. 10, for this aqueduct is on
a level and does not appear to have been made until
the Birket Israil was made into the tank it appears at
present.
“Shaft 1. Commenced 2nd April, 1869, at a point
at the foot of the mound of rubbish outside St,
Stephen’s Gate, where some Christians say tradition
‘places the site of an ancient church,
“Surface, 2343 feet above sea-level. Rock was
found at depth of 6 feet: it sounded hollow, and on
striking with a jumper, caved in, and a grotto was
exposed to view, nearly circular on plan, about 9 feet
in diameter and 4 feet high; it had been used asa
tomb, and is divided into five loculi by plaster parti-
tions about 3 inches thick and 12 inches high; two of
these lay about north-east to south-west, and three
north-west to south-east,
“ At the southern side a shaft leads down into a
chamber (No. 2) 26 feet long, 6 feet broad, and
divided latitudinally into ten loculi, separated as in
the chamber above ; one of the middle loculi servesas
CURIOUS TOMB. 173
a passage, opening at either end into two chambers
(Nos. 3 and 4) parallel and similar to No, 2; these
are also divided into loculi.
“ Other chambers open out from these; the largest
being at the south-east angle of No. 3, where there is
a shaft (about 6 feet deep) leading down into a lower
range of chambers, in direct length about 40 feet.
All these chambers, nine in number, are divided off
into loculi, except one which appears to have been an
ante-room, and in which some pieces of cut stone were
found.
“ The partitions separating the loculi in some cases
‘are cut out of the rock. The chambers were found
half full of earth, fallen in from above, and it is
evident that they had been opened, and perhaps used,
at a period subsequent to the time when they had
been used as tombs. The earth was moved from one
chamber into another, but we found no indications of*
passages into a larger grotto, the only places not ex-
plored were some shafts leading up, apparently, to the
surface.
“The work was continued for twenty-four days.
Six pottery lamps, apparently early Christian, and
some glass vases were found ; these were sent home in
a box under charge of Corporal Ellis,
“The chambers are cut in the ‘melékeh’ of a very
rotten description, nearly approaching to the ‘cakooli,’
and no chisel marks were found on the rock. The
system of chambers with shafts leading up to surface
is somewhat on the plan of the Greek or Pheenician
tombs at Saida.
“ A plan of some of the chambers, and a section, are
WL _ “RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
inclosed ; the whole system is not. given, as they. ‘ie’
over each.dther, and are cut so irregularly as almost
to suggest the idea that,they may have been natural
.caverns enlarged by’ mazi. \.” er 7
“Shafts 2, 3, weré sunk at the bottom of the road, ”
due“east of St. Stephen's Gate; rock was found in |
each at. 5° feet 6 inches ‘and 2 feet. respectively ; at
the first the last 3 feet 6 inches was of the red virgin:
soil. “Shafts were now commenced higher up the
road leading to St. Stephen’s Gate. ne
“Shaft 4. Commenced 9th April, 1869, was sunk
near the road, 256 feet east of the gate ; at 14 feet ai -
small aqueduct or cistern was broken into, about
4 feet 6 inches square of masonry.: Rock was found
at 20 feet Y'inches, the walls of the cistern resting on
it, the rock 4evelled. , Soil ‘for first 13 “fect nearly
black, in layers sloping from north to south for the
‘first 11 feet, and then from west to east to a depth of
14 feet, slope two in three ; below fhis the colour was .
~red, and continued so for 6 feet to the rock; level of
‘surface 2390 feet. .A shaft was next, sunk higher up
near the road, at a distance of 162 feet from the gate;
level of surface 2409 feet. ; :
“Shaft 5. Rock was found at a depth of 30 fect.
“The top of a scarp facing to east; this was followed,
‘down 20 feet, the rock receding under to west, appa-
‘rently the side of a tank, as it was plastered-and ended
“abruptly to north; large stones were found, as though
‘they. had been part of the vaulting of a tank; after
getting to. a depth of 50 feet below the surface this -
-Shaft was filled up. For the first :20 feet the soil=
-was black and rotten. annarenitle euhhich fen. i,
SHAFTS AT NORTH-EAST ANGLE. - | -~-1%8
city; from, thence -to? the .rock loam mixed with
stones, - -
“Shaft 6, Commenced 12th May, 1869, near road.
‘at 109 fect, east of St. Stephen’s Gate; level of surface
2411 feet, Rock found.at 22 feet 9 inches below
surface, falling one foot’ in one to south-east. At
16 feet.colour of sgil changed from black to a reddish,
“brown. At 8 feet some pottery found, In conse:
quence of the finding of the wall at No. 11,’ “Hb was
considered desirable to drive a gallery to west from’
No. 6 in search of continuation of the same. Bex:
“Rock ‘very soft and rises to west slightly; first
10 feet-level, then 3 feet with rise of 8 inches, and
then 2 feet level again ; in all, 15 feet, The rock is
then scarped to west to depth of 8° foet ‘4 inches, is
level for 10 feet, and then rises again in’a small searp
of 24 feet, and then goes on levél agaift.? Bpace of
ditch filled in with small stonés ‘and earth. Total
length of gallery to west 25 feet 8 inches: . No signs
‘of any wall as found at No.'11; but probably we.”
were-not near"enough to west.
“Shaft -7, Commenced 24th April, 1869; -at the
first angle in city wall, 43 feet north of St. Stephen’s
Gate; surface level 2419 feet; wall below surface
same as that seen above; at 18} feet came on rock
and concrete on which the wall rests; no signs what-
ever of anything more ancient than the present city
wall, as -seen above ground; soil passed through,
loose rubbish.
“ Shaft 8. Commenced: 8th April, 1869, at a point
200 feet due east of the south corner a tower. of
north-east angle Haram Area. Rock, cut down
176 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
level, found at 294 feet. Level of surface 2347 feet.
Some broken pieces of fresco were found near the
rock. Soil passed through was black for first 8 feet,
and then of a.brown colour, with the appearance of
water having passed constantly through it with lime
in suspension. A gallery was now driven to south-
west to determine the lie of the rock. Rock found
to slope to south-east ; after progressing 11 feet, the
gallery had to be tamped up on account of our
striking a layer of loose stones with no earth among
them, and which ran down in streams on being
touched.
_ “Shaft 9. Commenced 30th April, 1869, higher up
the hill, and at a distance of 40 feet to west of No. 8.
Level of surface 2364 feet. Sunk 23 feet through
black earth, and then came upon shingle from 1 to
’ 2 inches cube, without any earth; shaft continued
20 feet deeper, when at a depth of 43 feet the
‘shingle changed to a layer of stones from 3 to
4 inches cube, and in getting through these the
shingle commenced to run and filled in the shaft
for about 14 feet; the shaft was then filled up
till the bottom was 22 fect below the surface, and a
gallery was driven in to west for 25 feet; a shaft
was then sunk through stones 12 inches cube, and
mud. Rock found at 25 feet, being 47 feet below
the surface ; rock falls one in four to south.
“Shaft 10. Commenced 5th May, 1869, along city
wall at first angle to south of St. Stephen's Gate, at
a distance of 34 feet from the Gate. Level of
surface 2410 feet. Bottom course of ashlar of city
wall at depth of 11 feet, resting on concrete formed
' BARREL DRAIN. 177
of stones about 6 inches cube, and hard lime; at
depth of 20 feet found rock, the concrete foundation
of wall-resting on it: rock sloping to south about.
one in four. Shaft was then filled up to top of
concrete and a sloping gallery Mais to the south
along city wall.
~ *Tn gallery, at 19 feet, came upon a strong rough
masonry wall, lying east and west, about 3 feet
thick, which did not reach up to city wall by 6 feet;
within this wall to south was a pavement of rough
tessere at.a level of about 2391 feet. Sergeant
Birtles suggests that this was perhaps the remains of
a house, the space between | fhe rough wall and the”
city wall having been thé’ doorway. Just before
reaching the rough wall, a masonty drain 7 inches
by 6 inches in the clear was crossed below level of .
pavement,
“ At 38 feet the top of a barrel drain was crossed,
and at 40 feet another rough wall, also large cut
stones were. found on east side and bottom of
gallery. °
“ At 4d feet 6 inches a shaft was wl and sick
found at 44 feet below sole of gallery, being 33% feet
below surface of ground at mouth of shaft; the
surface of rock therefore at this point is 2377
feet.
“The top of the barrel dian was now examined ;
after going in 2 feet 6 inches it ended, and another
roof formed of flat stones at a rather higher level
was seen, and after 8 feet the sides of an aqueduct
running west- were visible, formed of jarge stones;
for the first 10 foot this passage is only 10 inches
N
- 178 : RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
wide, and it then becomes larger (2 feet wide), the
southern side being formed of large stones 3 feet
6 inches high and 4 feet 6 inches long, well squared,
and exhibiting slight traces of a bevel; the aqueduct
was traced for 39 feet in all, and was ibletked up by
a stone having fallen down from the roof. In the
top, about 15. feet from entrance, a cylindrical
earthenware pipe, 9 inches diameter, was built in,
apparently to conduct water from a higher level;
also two other pipes, about 4 inches in diameter,
were found laid-horizontally above the stones forming
the roof. The aqueduet was in a very decayed con-
dition and not safe for the nien to work in; it
apparently leads from the Birket Israil at a level of
2390 feet, the bottom of the pool being 2325 feet,
It. is probable that it was constructed before. the
present city wall, but it has not the appearance of
very great age, and the fact of the south side being
‘composed of large bevelled stones rather goes to
show that it was formed atter the destruction of one
of the old walls.
“Shaft 11. Commenced 16th March, 1869, at a
point about 100 feet to east of Sanctuary wall, a little
north of the north-east angle. Level of surface 2405
feet. Ata depth of 42 feet an aqueduct was broken
through, very rough, no plaster, roof formed by rough
-stones in form of an arch, runs in a north-westerly
direction diregtly for he aqueduct found in Shaft
No. 10. To the north-west 27 feet were open, and
to south-east 20 feet.
“ Shaft was now continued, and at 60 feet the
earth changed colour and rock found at 64 feet from
STONES INJURED BY HEAT. 179°
itlates cut in stopa apparently for resting a founda-*
tion on. Falls to west about one in four.
“The shaft was now filled up to level of aqueduct,
and the clearing out of the portion towards the city
wall was commenced. Passage 3 feet 6 inches high
and 1 foot 9 inches wide; stones forming sides and
roof, 3 inches thick and-6 inches long, very rough.
“ At 32 feet found the passdge broken in at sides;
after securing this, it was found to continue and to
be filled with hard silt. At 57 feet a very massive
wall of bevelled stones running north and south, and
65 feet from city wall, . a8 reached—stones well
squared and somewhat sinfilér to those found at the
Jews’ Wailing Place: course 3 feet 7 inches in
height. Commenced a gallery along the wall to the
north; the second stone found was not bevelled,
though well squared and dressed. At 18 feet from
aqueduct, the gallery being driven horizontally, the
rock was struck, and the lowest course of the wall
took a turn about 30° to north-east, while the second
course continued straight on to north; the wall now
was composed of small stones, and after continuing it
for 8 feet farther, the ‘gallery was tamped up by
earth taken from a new gallery driven along wall to
south.
“ Gallery continued to south along bevelled stones
of wall; at 19 feet reached the corner stone, the wall
now running to west. The stones here are very well
dressed, but have a curious cracked appearance, as if
they had been subjected to great heat, and they
’ broke off in large chips when struck accidentally.
Followed up the wall to west, and at 13 feet 6 inches
wn 2
180 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
came upon what appéared to be part of a rough wall
running to south, stones about 1 foot 6 inches high
and 2 feet long. The main wall still went on to
west, but was now composed of very rough irregular
stones of large size; the gallery was now continued
for 46 feet from the angle, when the wall suddenly
ended, and after being continued for 7 feet farther,
the gallery was stopped, and another gallery driven
to south-west from the point (47 feet from angle)
where the main wall had ended.
“Continued gallery to south-west; progress im-
peded by meeting with a concrete floor composed of
black cement and small- stones ; point where this floor
was met with 29 feet from where the gallery branched.
At 38 feet came close on point below north-east
angle of Haram wall, and broke into a gallery from |
No. 12. This was done for the purpose of tamping
up No. 9 with the soil from No. 12, and so avoid
taking it along the rough aqueduct, whieh: had: bese
an awkward business,
“Tt does not appear that the stones of the massive
wall in No. 11 are in situ; they differ in height,
and sometimes a squared stone is interpolated ¢ it is +
probable that this wall was built after the aqueduct
had ceased to be of use, as we find it cut in two by
the wall ; that is to say, if we are to suppose it to be
one and the same with that found in Shaft No. 10.
“ Shaft 12. Commenced 24th April, 1869, at a point
97 feet due east of north-east angle of Sanctuary:
level of surface 2396 feet. The soil at first was very
good for working (black-soil) toa depth of 42 feet,
where a rough wall was encountered, running east and
west. Below this, rough stones were met with, and
4
WALL REACHED. 181
the shaft preenied with some difficulty t toa depth of
59 feet, when rock was met with: falls one in three
to east. The shaft was then filled up to 33 feet from
surface, and a gallery driven in towards north-east
angle through very good soil for 35 feet. At this
point the earth gave way suddenly in front of the
frames for about 9 inches, and down came a torrent
of shingle, filling up the gallery for 6 feet.
“It appears that the surface of the good earth falls
towards the Sanctuary, the shingle lying on top of
it, there being again after a few feet of good earth
another bed of shingle.
“ We now had to try back, and at 29 feet from shaft
turned the gallery sharp round -to south, stepping it
down each frame one in one, so as to get a féw feet
of good earth over our heads. After 10 feet the
gallery was turned round again towards the city wall,
and gradually stepped up: we were now once more
in most excellent soil, the best we had come across in
Jerusalem; but there was still the chance of our
meeting a break of shingle and being prevented |
reaching the Sanctuary. Every effort was made to
obviate any such accident; and Sergeant Birtles and
Corporgl McKenzie, putting in thirty frames in two
days, arrived safely at the Sanctuary wall without
encountering the dreaded shingle. What prevents
progress in these galleries is not so much the
work at the head of the shaft, as the difficulty in
making the men carry off the soil quick enough. A
gallery was now driven along the Sanctuary wall to
north; and at 26 feet the curious shaft leading to
aqueduct was met with, described at page 163.
“ The gallery along Sanctuary wall was continued
182 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
to north .beyond the light-shaft of this aqueduct; and
.the stones were found to continue bevelled and well
cut for 65 feet, when they changed: in character from
being similar to those at the Jews’ Wailing Place to
those found near bottom of tower at north-east angle ;
the centres of the stones projecting from 6. to 10
inches. These were examined for 10 feet, and ‘then
the gallery. was tampéd up. It is to be observed that
this wall was traced considerably beyond the point
where the massive wall of No. 11 should have come
*in, and therefore they appear not to be connected. -
“In the gallery to north a concrete floor was
encountered, apparently ascending to north, at a
distance of 64 feet. It was just here that the
Sanctuary wall stones changed their character; and
probably it may have been that the projecting-faced
stones were hidden beneath the concrete floor.
“A shaft was sunk alongside the Sanctuary wall
‘at the point where the gallery from No. 12 struck
it, 18 feet south of the north-east angle of Sanctuary
as seen .on,surfage) Level of bottom of gallery
2363. feet 3 itches. Passed through black earth
and stone about 12 inches cube; at 17 feet came
on‘stong -chippings.. Hitherto, in this shaft, the
Sanctuary wall stones had, the ordinary marginal
draft; but at 214 feet the first gourse of project-
ing-faded stones was met with, the projection being
25 inches., oe ara
“At 36 feet the “ioee struck, having a very
steep. fall.to, south, and ‘Bging ut, in steps for the
reception of the stones of the Sanctuary yall. Shaft
tamped. :
SOUTH CORNER OF TOWER, 183
-“ The gallery to south was continued until it reached
the southern corner of the tower, which at this point
only projects 2 feet (page 170); and here. another
shaft was sunk : level of bottom of gallery 2363 feet.
Commenced 7th July, 1869. At first the soil was
- good, then some very large stones had to be broken
.through : at a depth of 46 feet the soil became better
to work in. The face of stone 14th course X
was very faulty, and its irregularities were filled’
up with small stones and mortar, rendered on out-.
side so as to look like stone (specimen of mortar
kept), Along the top of Z course, which sets out
74 inches, a small drain was built about 6 inches by
5 inches in the clear: it runs into a little cistern
about 3 feet square and 6 feet high, the sides
plastered, and top covered with a rough flat stone:
depth of drain from bottom of gallery 52 feet 6 inches.
The cistern lay to north of shaft, its western side
about 1 foot 6 inches from Harant-wall; the drain,
1 foot 4 inches wide, enters at noMecast angle of
tank, and thé outlet, which ie-pnly about 6 Inches,
square, is at the south-west angle; there was about #-
foot of deposit at bottom.
At 58 feet we got among dry shingle,” and ab
62 feet 6 inches came to the course, on opé stone of
which red painteg@ characters were found’: ‘the. face
of the stone was not dressed, but in the working of
it a large piece had split off, leaving a smooth face;
and. on this the characters. were painted. In one
case the letter appéaregfo‘thave been put on before
the stone ‘yas laid, as the trickling from thg paint.
was on the upper side.
184 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
“Rock was found at 70 feet: 9 inches below ‘bottom
of gallery: it had a steep slope of two in one to
south.
“This shaft was now ‘tamped up and the gallery
driven on to south along the side of the Haram -wall
for 75 feet past the corner of the tower, the soil being
very good; all at once our old enemy, the shingle,
again appeared and filled up the end of our gallery,
so that it had to be tamped up for 12 feet,.as itis ims
possible to drive through this shingle with our means.
Shaft now sunk (commenced 2nd December, 1869) at
63 feet south of corner of tower, passed this loose
earth and large stones, some of them 4 feet long and
very nicely dressed. 13th December got down to a
depth of 28 feet.
. “Wherever the wall of the Sanctuary, south of the
corner of the tower, has been seen as yet, the stones
have been found with projecting faces, and it seams
most ‘probable that this description of wall extends in
an unbroken line as far as the Golden Gate.
“The Count de Vogiié visited the excavations at
No, 12, and was shown the aqueduct; while he was
down there a piece of magnesium wire was lighted: at
the top of the light-shaft so as to imitate daylight
' pouring in; ‘the light, after passing down the shaft,
strikes the aqueduct just where the staircase opens in,
so that any person coming down it would have been
able to have seen where-he was going to.
“The, passage has since béen cleared out for 28 feet ;
it was filled with earth and large stones, which rolled
: down with great force into the aqueduct; the passage
is found to be a staircase leading -up towards surface
NORTH-EAST ANGLE. 185
to north, at an angle of one in one; it appears to
have been cut out of the solid after the wall was
built. The roof is hollowed a little in centre, and
ascends by great steps of about 4 feet each.”
Letter of 25th February, 1870.—Conelusion of the
Excavations at the north-east angle of Sanctuary.—
“Account of this work has been sent up to 13th Decem-
ber, 1869; we had then failed in driving a gallery
to south along Sanctuary wall more than 75 feet
beyond the tower, and bad commenced a shaft from
the gallery along the Sanctuary wall at 63 feet south
of south-east angle of tower, and had sunk to a
depth of 28 feet. s
“The level of gallery at shaft-mouth was 2363 feet
3 inches (see plan). For the first 17 feet 6 inches
passed through good black earth to 2345 feet 6 inches,
then passed through a heap of broken cut stone, the
faces well cut with marginal drafts. It was difficult
work getting through these, as they had to be broken
up with the hammer, and the concussion brought
stones down upon the workmen.
“ At 31 feet (2332 feet) these large stones termi-
nated, and to 36 feet (2327 feet) alternate layers of
earth and gravel or small stones were met with, each
layer of earth about 6 inches thick, and gravel about
9 inches.
“ We now came on loose shingle and stone clippings
to a depth of 49 feet (2313 feet). The shingle kept
giving way, and running into the shaft, till it was
feared the. large broken stones would be dislodged ;
the frames were battened together and earth thrown
behind them. On stone U, at level 2326 feet, a
186 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
mark was found; it is difficult to say whether it is
natural or not; a squeeze of it did not show at all.
A sketch has been made.
“ Passed through a hard black soil, sloping to east,
till 56 feet (2307 feet), when a layer of red clay,
mixed with small stones, 3 inches thick, was
reached. At 53 feet (2310 feet) a small drain was
found running along the Sanctuary wall on top of
stone Z, evidently the same drain as was met with in
the shaft at south-east angle of tower: it was made of
small stones and mortar; very hard, apparently had
been mixed with oil, Just below this drain several
pieces of tesserze were found : they are similar to those
found about Jcrusalem, supposed to be Roman,
Several specimens have been kept; they have a high
’ polish.
“We now continued below the layer of red clay
(which dips to east), and finding thésgoil black and °
hard to 60 feet 6 incles (2302 feet 9 inches), com-
menced gallery B to south at that level on 22nd
December, 1869,
“At 9 feet 6 inches to south, that is at 72 feet
6 inches to south of south-east angle of tower, com-
menced a shaft through black earth and small stones
and broken pieces of pottery, At 65 fect came on
small shingle to 67 feet (2296 feet), and then stones
and wet earth to 80 feet (2283 feet), when rock was
found sloping to north, which showed us that we had
gone too far to south. The rock is cut away in steps
for the stones of the wall.
“ A gallery was now commenced to north along the
rock, to find the bottom of the valley; but, after six
GREATEST DEPTH OF DEBRIS. 187
feet, a large stone crushed through the frames, and
the gallery had to be tamped up. The rock was
found to continue falling to north, s
“ Gallery B was now driven to north for 18 feet,
when at 45 feet from south-east angle of tower a
shaft was sunk through hard black soil, for 11 feet
6: inches (2292 feet), when shingle was met with. |
The rock was found at 2289-sloping rapidly to south,
and stepped down for the reception of the stones of
the wall.
“ Commenced a gallery to south along rock, and at
16 feet, 24th January ; found the lowest point 85 feet
below the gallery, or at a level ef 2278 feet 3 inches,
or a little over 125 feet below the present surface.
This is the greatest depth of débris we have yet
found.
“The ground here was very wet, and it was to all
appearances the bottom of the valley ; but, to make
sure, the gallery B was again driven to south, until
at 104 feet 6 inches from south-east angle of tower,
shingle, sloping to south one in five, was met with, and
the gallery had to be stopped. At this point a shaft
was sunk : the first 18 inches through black soil, then
a layer of blue clay without stone or grit in it, from
9 inches to 12 inches thick, and falling to east at one
in twelve; under this was gravel, hard and difficult
to get through, till at 16 feet rock was found
(7th February, 1870) at a level of 2289, sloping to
north. . 2
“'There was thus a rise from the apparent bottom of. .
the valley of 11 feet in 46 feet horizontal.
& There is still, however, the possibility of the bottom
188 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
of the valley being farther to south, as the rock here
appears to lie in benches, with every here and there
a drop. As it is, the bottom of the valley, as found
by us, is over 165 feet below the Sakhra.
“Tn this valley at 12 we have excavated more than
600 feet run of shaft. and gallery.”
BIRKET ISRAIL. 189
CHAPTER VI.
NORTHERN SIDE OF THE NOBLE SANCTUARY.
Birket Israil—Letter of 12th Novepber, 1867—*1
have examined the passages west of the Birket Israil.
The southern terminates abruptly, at 134 feet, in a
masonry wall; the northern opens, at 118 feet, into
SECTION EAST AND WEST THROUGH BIRKET ISRAIL.
small arched passage, running north and south, of
modern construction, which appears to have been
built t> enable the rubbish to be thrown down. I
190 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
am exposing the wall to the west, but at present there
appear no signs of a continuation of the passage.
This exploration was a very nasty piece of work, as
the passage is now used as a sewer, and is choked
up to the crown of the arch. In oné place we both
stuck for about ten minutes, not being able to get
backwards or forwards.”
January 1st, 1868.—* A shaft was sunk in the pool
of Israil at 20 feet from southern side and 158 feet
- from eastern end; at a level of 23494 feet, after
getting down 16 feet through loose stones and
boulders, the rains swamped out the workmen. In
November, 1868, the work was recommenced; at
21 feet water was reached, strongly ~impreguated
with sewage.” ks
Jerusalem, December 28th, 1868.—Birket ’Israil-— -
“On 12th November I related to you that in —
a shaft in this pool we had come upon filthy water,
and had been obliged to discontinue the work on
account of the foul smell arising. After a few days
had elapsed I had this water baled out, and found
that the fresh water which streamed in again on all
sides was comparatively clean and pure. By feelingé
with a jumper, the water was found to stand at a
height of 3 feet 6 inches above the bottom of the
pool, and as the débris we had to go through was a
mass of loose stones, through which the water flowed
freely, it was a matter of some difficulty to get a look
at the bottom, because it was not possible to get the
water out. fast enough to enable us to fix in frames
one by one; after some trouble, the space between the
BIRKET ISRAIL. 191
lage shaft fata and the bottom of the pool Ghont
4 feet) was cleared out, so far as the stones are
concerned, and then a small cofferdam was let down ;
it consisted of four shaft frames screwed together and
rested on the bottom of the pool; clay had been got
up for the purpose and was puddled in behind the
frames on all sides; the water was then baled out
and the bottom of the pool was exposed.
“Tt has a hard smooth surface, evidently for the
bottom of a reservoir; on breaking through, we found
first a thickness of plaster, 24 inches, very hard and
compact, composed of cement and broken pottery ;
then a kind of concrete, consisting of alternate layers
of small stpnes and mortar, to a depth of 1 foot 44
inches, "<The ‘plaster and ‘concrete was exceedingly
hard, so much so that only small pieces could be
broken off with the jumper ; we were obliged there-
fore. to have recourse to blasting, and as the water
trickled slowly into the jumper holes, the charges
were put in glass bottles and rendered water-tight,
-We soon had a hole, about 2 feet square, made
through the concrete, and there was exposed a surface
of hard stone (mezzeh), either the rock or a large
paving stone, apparently the former; a jumper hole
10 inches deep was driven into this stone, but it
- would have been very difficult to have gone deeper
without disturbing a greater surface than our dam
covered, I had the shaft partially filled in, and drove
a gallery from it at a depth of 9 feet to the south
wall of the pool. There we found the plaster and
lining stones precisely similar to those which’are seen
above and which are fully described by Salzmann,”
192 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM, <
4 Specimens of the plaster and soncrets from the
bottom of the pool are now ready to be sent home.
“The top of the shaft was 60 feet below the Sanc-
tuary level. At the northern end, the depth of shaft to
the bottom of the pool was 24 feet 6 inches, so that the
bottom of the pool is ata level of 2325 feet above the
Mediterranean. As a result of the examination, we
find that the bottom of the pool, at least in one point,
is (or rather was) in perfect preservation, that the
pool is upwards of 80 feet deep, and that there is
in it an accumulation of stones, refuse, and sewage
averaging a depth of 35 feet. Should the city be again
rendered wholesome and inhabitable in summer by
the enforcement of proper sanitary regulations, it
would be necessary to remove the rubbish from this
pool, and then the Birket Israil, at the expense of
rendering the sides sound, might again serve as a
reservoir for water.
“The results of the examination with regard to
settling the question of the position of the rock about
the pool are not satisfactory : at the bottom it appears
to be rock; but at the side, where the gallery was
driven, it.appears that the rock is wanting, otherwise
it would not have been necessary to build-it up with
large stones.
“Tf the side of the oul to the south is not cut out of
the rock, then we have the Haram Area at this point
elevated to a height of 100 feet: and the question
arises whether this 100 feet is débris (and most
interesting débris it would be), or whether it is
composed of substructions similar to those at the
south-east angle, and in continuation of those we
ARCHES WEST OF BIRKET. "198.
have lately found at the north end of the Mosque
Platform. ;
“ Again, on the east side of this pool, we have the
Bab Sitti Miriam, generally called St. Stephen’s
Gate. Are we to suppose this gate elevated 100 feet
above the bottom of the wall, or does the rock break
down suddenly from the gate towards the south, so as
to form a deep gorge in which the pool is built? In
this latter case, how far does the ravine extend from
the south-west? Does itcome down from the Damas-
cus Gate and pass south of the Serai, and so join the
valley from the north at the site of the pool? These
‘are points to which considerable interest must be
attached (sce page 169).
“T find that the rock, to the north of the Birket
Israil, crops up at the side of the Church of St. Anne,
at a level of 2410 feet, and that at the gate leading
to this church from the Via Dolorosa, no rock was
found at 36 feet from the surface (2405 fect).
“There is a question also with regard to the two
arched passages leading from the west of the Birket
Israil; the crowns of these arches are on a level with
the top of the pool, and it seems hardly probable that
the piers will extend to the bottom of the pool with-
out a second scries of arches midway ; if, on the other
hand, the passages do not reach to the bottom of the
pool, it would be interesting to know whether they
are built on débris or on rock: a shaft is now being
sunk under one of the arches, but the owner of the
ground is a little diffident about our working there,
and may place obstacles in the way.” ;
Fenvuary 1st, 1869.—“ Under the northern. vault,
oO
194 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
9 feet from the entrance, a shaft has been sunk, and
at a depth of 14 feet 6 inches a floor of concrete has
been found, which at this point is 36 feet 6 ‘inches
below the crown of the arch, and 43 feet 6 inches
above the bottom of the pool.
“ The floor has a slope towards the entrance, where
there are four stone steps 16 inches broad and 7 inches _
in height; the bottom step is nearly flush. with the
west wall of the pool, and from this step to crown
of the arch is 49 feet; beyond this there is a landing
8 feet broad, and then a drop of 4 feet. Attempts
were made to get through the concrete at this point,
but.the instruments could make no impression on it;
the gallery was then driven down along the face of
the concrete to cast, which is. found to consist of
irregular steps (see woodcut), The concrete was’
followed down until, at a point 22 feet above the.
_ bottom of the pool, the rubbish was found to be im too
loose a state to work through, and the gallery has
been discontinued ; it is probable that in any case we
could not have continued more than a foot or two
deeper on account of the water in the pool.
“The concrete floor was then broken through and. .
rock was found at 40 feet below the crown of the
arch of the northern Sounterain, and also under the
concrete in other places sloping to the east.
“Tt shows that the Birket Israil never extended
farther to the west than its present limit, at its present
depth ; and we may draw the inference that no other
enormous pools exist similar to and to the west of
Birket Israil; that any ditches or pools to the west’ -
of it will be found to be cut out of the rock. and of com- !
CISTERNS NORTH-WEST OF BIRKET. 195
paratively small size, similar to that found near the
Sisters of Sion Convent; and that if ever the Birket
_ Israil was of larger extent than it is at present, it
would only have been by a portion of the pool run-
ning north towards the west end of the Church of
St. Anne, or south into the Sanctuary.
“ The subsequent excavations at the north-east angle
of the Sanctuary proved that there was also rock at
the eastern side of the pool, but none on the north
and south.
“On January Ist, 1869, the garden, north-west of
Birket Israil, on the other side of the road, was
examined ; arid an entrarice to a cistern found at
61 feet north of the Via Dolorosa, and 33 feet west
of the road leading- north from Bab Hytta (sec
Ordnance Survey Plan’ z;5, the contour line 2419
passes through the garden). The height of this
entrance is 2421 feet, for about the first 20 feet down
there is a shaft 2 feet wide; below this it opens out
to west to about 8 feet, and at 36 feet is the rock,
forming: in part the roof of a small chamber or cistern :
this chamber is cut in the rock, and is filled up within
6 feet of the top with mud: close to the shaft
already described, is a parallel shaft, giving the im-
pression that water was obtained from this chamber
by means ofa n’aura (water-wheel).”
February 1st, 1869.—“ We have been excavating
-in the cistern in garden north-west of the Birket, where
I thought there had been a n’aura, but we can find
no signs of any aqueduct by which water could have
been brought i in; the cistern is 20 feet deep.
196 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
Tarik Bab Sitti Miriam, close to the traditional
tower of Antonia, Ihave opened another cistern, and
found rock as shown on plan; running north and
south on the rock is an aqueduct which apparently
filled the cistern in passing, and may have been used
for the supply of the Sanctuary or of the Birket
Israil; it is blocked up after a few feet at each end,
and the owner of the property would not have it
opened.
“ Each step we take about the north-eastern end of
the Sanctuary tends to point out that there is a great
depth from the surface to the rock.”
BETHESDA ACCORDING TO EARLY TRADITION.
Wherever the original Pool of Bethesda may have
been, the accounts of Eusebius and the Bordeaux
Pilgrim point to the twin pools (whose existence.
recent researches have established at the north-west
angle of the Noble Sanctuary) being the traditionary
Bethesda of their day. Here are pools cut in the rock,
side by side, with a pier of masonry 5 feet thick
running up the centre, and arches thrown over convert-
ing them into Souterrains; the total length is 165
feet, the breadth through both pools and the pier is
about 48 feet; water enters in at the north-west
angle, and supplies the convent of the Sisters of Sion
for all purposes except drinking, and is probably an
abundant spring.
At the south-west angle a great passage leads off
due south along the west wall of the Sanctuary.
“+ Busebius,* in his Onomasticon, gives no idea as :to
Z {
BETHESDA OF EUSEBIUS. 197
site, but tells us that Bethesda is “a pool at Jerusalem,
which is the Piscina Probatica, and had formerly five
porches, and now is pointed out as the twin pools
there, of which one is filled by the rains of the year,
but the other exhibits its waters tinged in an ex-
traordinary manner with red, retaining a trace,
they say, of the victims that were formerly cleansed
in it.”
The Bordeaux Pilgrim tells us “there are at
Jerusalem two great pools at the side of the temple ;
that is, one on the right hand and the other on the
left, which Solomon made.
“But more within the city are two twin pools,
having five porches, which are called Bethsaida.
Here the sick of many years were wont to be healed,
but these pools have water, which, when agitated, is
of a kind of red colour.”
If the pilgrim entered by the present St. Stephen’s
Gate, he would have walked along between the Birket
Israil and the church of St. Anne and have turned
down along the west side of the Sanctuary, and in
doing so he would have to cross over the twin pools
near the Ecce Homo Arch.
The red colour of water in one of the pools would
be the result of the rapid influx of water after the
‘\heavy rains through the underground channels.
' Several authorities (Thrupp, Williams, &e.) are in
favour of water having entered the city near here ;
and besides this well-known spring at the Sisters of
Sion Convent, there is the report of the existence of
t spring in church of the Flagellation hard by ; and.
it is to be remarked that the Arabs have a tradition
i
198 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
of there being a channel of running water in one of
the streets close to this twin pool; the street is called
Hosh Bezbezi Chabbting of water).—Wilson’s 0. 8. O.
note p. 79.
The northern of the two great pools spoken of by
the Bordeaux. Pilgrim appears to have stood near the
present church of St. Anne, and the traditional site of
Bethesda became transferred to it, and on its destruc-
tion to the Birket Israil.
OF the existence of a pool near the church of St.
Anne in the Middle Ages, north of the Birket Israil,
and of its then being considered as the pool of
Bethesda, we have the testimony of Sewulf, Brocardus,
and Anselm,
Mr. Williams, who goes very thoroughly into the
-matter (“The Holy City,” p. 484), considers not only
that the large pool (now destroyed) near the church
of St. Anne, was the Bethesda and Piscina Probatica
of the Middle Ages, but also of the earlier Christians
and of the Bordeaux Pilgrim.
I cannot, however, see how he arrives at this con-
clusion ; and as the two large pools spoken of by the
Bordeaux Pilgrim are generally admitted to be the
Birket Israil, and that which was near the church of
St. Anne, it appears to me highly probable that the _
twin pool “more within the city ” should be the twif,,
pool under the Sisters of Sion Convent.
SOUTERRAIN NO. 1, CONVENT OF SISTERS OF SION]
Letter of October 28th, 1867.—“I have been unable
to explore passage in west wall of the Souterrain ht
SPRINGS IN JERUSALEM 199
; « Sisters ‘of ‘Bion? it is blosked up eit! masonry.
ri have, however, examined the hitherto unexplored
passage cut in the rock at its southern end, and con-
sider the results will. be thought very interesting.
‘Last week I looked into this passage, and found it to
open out to a width of 4 feet, and to be full of sewage
5 feet deep. I got some planks, and made a perilous
voyage on the sewage for about 12 feet, and found
myself in a magnificent passage cut in the rock 30
feet high, and covered by large stones laid across
horizontally. Seeing how desirable it would be to
trace out this passage, I obtained three old doors, and
went down there to-day with Sergeant Birtles; we
laid them down on the surface of the sewage, and
advanced along by lifting up the hindermost and
throwing it in front of us. The general direction of
the passage is due south ; after 16 fect it runs to west
for 6 fect, and then pursues its original course. In
some places the sewage was exceedingly moist and
yery offensive, and it was difficult to keep our balance
whilst getting up the doors after they had sunk in
the muck. After advancing 6 feet we came to a dam
built across the passage—ashlar—about 10 feet high ;
the passage in continuation also containing sewage at
the- lower level of 6 feet. Everything had become
so slippery that we had to exercise great caution in
lowering ourselves down, lest an unlucky false step
might cause a header into the murky liquid. After
leaving this dam behind us some 50 feet we found the
sewage to be firmer at top, and after a few more feet
we were enabled to walk op- its surface with the aid
of poles. The roof now began sloping down so that
200 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
the height was considerably lessened, and on arriving a¥,
a little more than 200 feet from the commencemen
we found our passage diminished to only 8 feet i
height and blocked up at the end by masonry.
Tt is cut throughout in solid rock from top to bottom,
and thus we have a fair section of the contour from
the Serai to the Via Dolorosa.
“It is evident that no ditch ever traversed the city
across the line of this passage; and therefore the
theory of a cutting from Birket Israil to Street of the
Valley is untenable, unless it be supposed to have
been more northerly in the direction of the arched
Souterrain, whose direction, 8.8.E., appears incon-
sistent with such an arrangement. I cannot for a
moment think that this passage was originally
intended as a drain ; it may have been a natural cleft,
utilised by cutting, and this would account for its
* The following account of recent discoveries at Jerusalem is
extracted from the “Atheneum,” October ist, 1870, and
« Quarterly,” No, VIL.—
“Tn this rock-ent passage, the rubbish has just been cleared out;
the bottom is found to be plastercd, and the dam built across has
« hole in it for stopping and letting out the water.
“ Tho extreme southern end of the passage, which was blocked up,
has now been cleared out, and is found ta turn sharply to east for
a fow feet, when it meets with a massive wall of bevelled or
marginal drafted stones. This wall is 8 feet thick, and lies aldng
the western boundary of the Haram Enclosure; three courses
arc rubble, tho middle one is 4 fect 74 inches in height, the drafts
are T inches wide at top and bottom, and from 3 inches to 4 inches
at the sides, and sunk about 4 inch.
“The portion of the wall exposed is only a few fect south of the
north-west angle of the Haram Area. . :
“Cuartes WARREN, Capt. RE.”
SOUTERRAINS. ~ 201
great height, which in some places is full 36 foet
above the surface of the sewage.
“Dr. Chaplin suggests that it is the passage,
‘Strato’s Tower,’ mentioned by Josephus as leading
to Antonia. ;
“T have examined the wall at the southern end of
the Souterrain, and am convinced it is a spring of
considerable capacity.”
December 2nd, 1868.—“ I visited, with M. Ganneau,
the Souterrain No. 1, and found that the passage
explored 28th October was comparatively dry, and we
could get to the end on planks, but there was nothing
new to be seen. The staircase close to this passage
was in some way connected with the latrines of the
Serai: it has been blocked up, and consequently the
amount of sewage now oozing into the place is very
inconsiderable.
“ A great portion of tne side of the Souterrain No. 1
to west is rock, and I hope to be able to ascertain
what it is throughout the entire length. At present .
it appears that the place is a deep fosse cut in the’
rock about 50 feet wide and 165 feet long.
SOUTERRAIN NO. 2, CONVENT OF SISTERS OF SION.
Letter of December Ind, 1868,—“ An important dis-
covery has been made lately at the Convent of the
Sisters of Sion (see general plan).
“Tn éxtending the buildings to the east a second
souterrain was found. Through the kindness of
M. Ganneau, the French Vice-consul, and with the
yee REO: Deemer Maer Line ae | Fy Pi ally cit Cannan (Pee, Peery
202 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
of it. It is to the north-east, and parallel to that
which has already been described in Captain Wilson’s
notes, ;
“We entered from an opening in the crown of the
arch, and descending 12 feet found ourselves on the top
of a mound of rubbish which had fallen in from above.
“At the end to the north-west, the vault is 20 feet
wide, and is filled up with rubbish nearly to the
springing ; the end is blocked up with a masonry
wall of a later date than the arch itself. The arch
appears to be semicircular, and has about thirty-one
courses; at 11 feet down on western side is a
communication with Souterrain No. 1, 7 feet wide,
and the pier or wall between the two is 5 feet 9 inches
thick. On the castern side of Souterrain No. 2, at
this end, the arch appears to spring from the rock.
“This arch in Souterrain No. 2 continues 45 feet to
south-east ; the vault then widens ; the succeeding arch
is 24 feet span, and the line of springing has a slope to
south-east of about one in six; the crown of the arch
apparently remaining horizontal as the arch increases
in span throughout its length of 863 feet. The
vault is now continued by another arch whose crown
- is about 4 feet 6 inches lower, and whose length is
46 feet. These two latter arches appear to be very
slightly pointed; they are very nearly semicircular.
The Souterrain No. 2 is thus 127 feet long, and from
20 feet to 26 feet across. The south-eastern end is
cut off by the same line of scarped rock which closes
No. 1. Also, I believe that the springing of the
arch to east throughout its length is on the rock:
For about 75 feet the Souterrain is @ pool of water
SOUTERRAINS. 208
about 6 feet deep, with a bottom of soft mud, the
water coming up to about 2 feet below the springing.
We had to construct a raft, floated with inflated goat-
skins, to enable us to examine this portion of the
vault; and I do not feel confidence in some cross
measurements taken at the farther end, which I have
not given on plan. I purpose going down again and
examining the place more minutely. M. Tl Abbé has
offered every facility for our thoroughly exploring it.
“ It is desirable to examine the arch to north-west
to see if it is continued. ;
_ “When the building of the convent was continued,
over the north-west end of No. 2, scarped rock was
found in continuation of No. 1, so that the inference
is that this was originally a pool cut in the rock.”
204 ' “RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
OHAPTER VIL.
THE TANKS AND SOUTERRAINS OF THE SANCTUARY,
Capraww Wyison measured and. described” the
majority of these in 1865; and I have subsequently
examined them all, with a view to determining the
level of rock in the Sanctuary, and have also
surveyed: those that required it.
In doing 50, particular attention was paid_ to the
_ accounts and plans given hy. Signor Pierotti in
“ Jerusalem Explored ;” and I have come to the
conclusion that his plans of tanks (Plate x1.) are
rough sketches of those he entered or looked into, as
they are totally unlike anything at present existing.
Also with regard to the passages he shows cut in the
rock (in Plates 1v. and xxviz.), as connecting. the
tanks in thé’Sanctuary with Siloam, &e., I should
suppose he does-not intend the reader to imagine
that he explored them throughout ; but, for example,
finding a drain at one place and-a walled-up opening,
200° yards off, he concluded the ‘drain “must have
corresponded with’ the opening” (“Jerusalem Ex-
plored,” p. 99); and showed it in accordingly on. the
TANKS AND SOUTERRAINS. “208.
plan. There are several ‘instances in his text’ where
conclusions of this kind are leaped at, and the
doubtful portions in ‘plan’ or section are in ‘no way
distinguished from what he actually discovered ; and
hence from this oversight his very valuable researches
are, for the most part, rendered worthless. One.of
the most tantalising instances of this is at. ‘tank
‘No. 1, when, .what would otherwise have been a
most important discovery, is thus rendered liable. to
rejection. _ a Sa
He tells us how he found two tanks, opening one
into the other (see No. 1 on plan) by..a passage
4} feet high and 3 feet: wide, and on plan 15 feet
-long ; how he found two openings to the southern ~
end, down one of which he penetrated, until he .
found himself in a chamber below the Sakhra, and
looking up saw the marble slab above him which
covers “the Well of Spirits.”-
He does not tell us how he could recognise the
under surface of a marble slab of which he had
previously only seen the upper surface ; neither does -
he say that he had anybody placed over the Well of
. Spirits to make signals to him, nor that he used tape
or compass; and it is remarkable that tank No. 1,
which he describes as two tanks with a passage
between, is now a long rock-cut tunnel, with no_
' vestiges of the passages or partition, I am of
opinion that a passage from tank No, 1 to a chamber
under the Sakhra dées exist, and think it highly
probable that the’ marble. slab seen by Signor
Pierotti was the stone covering the Well of Spirits;
ut I do not feel satisfied until some further data are
206 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
given; and as to the blood having been led from
tank to tank to stagnate and putrefy and poison the
courts of the Temple, there seems no reason for such
a system. Apparently all that would be necessary
would be a receiving chamber opening into a culvert,
running as straight as possible from the inner court
of the Temple, with here and there openings where
conduits of water might flush it out.
I will now briefly relate any information with
regard to the tanks of the Sanctuary which has
not already been published in Captain Wilson’s 0.8.
notes,
No. 1. Rock 2427 feet above Mediterranean,
and 12 feet ‘below surface of Dome of the Rock
platform. ‘This tank is a tunnel about 130 feet long
and. 24 feet wide, cut in rock for 18 feet from
bottom to springing of arch, which is segmental.
Signor Picrotti describes a passage connecting this
tank with a chamber under. the Sakhra; and I have
to suggest that this Sakhra cave is the gate Nitsots,
from whence. there was a passage through the tunnel
to the gate Tad.
No. 3. Rock 2426 feet; 9 fect from surface. A
channel cut in the rock, leading into this tank, was
examined November, 1867; it runs north and south,
and conducts into the tank surface water from small
ducts which run east and west. There are three
chambers in this tank, which are separated by piers,
through which there are low-arched doorways. I
have to suggest that this may have been the House
of Baptism, communicating with-the room of Beth
Mokad and the gate Tadi.
DOME OF THE ROLL. 207
It is to be noticed that the tanks Nos. 1 and 3 would,
if produced north, meet together at the northern edge
of the platform, where there. is a hollow-sounding
piece of ground. Under this may still be the gate
Tadi, opening out through the scarped rock, one
portion of which was found somewhat to the east at
Souterrain 29,*
No. 2. Rock 2429s 6 feet from surface. This is
a large tank cut in ‘Took but there was too much
water in it for us to measure it. Length about
60 feet; breadth about 50 feet. The sheikh of the
Mosque said it communicated with No, 34 hard by;
“but it does not appear to do so,
No. 4, A small retort-shaped cistern; rock 2417 feet;
18 fect below surface. At 11 feet below surface is a
more ancient entrance-mouth to this tank, somewhat
above the general level of the Sanctuary.
No. 5. At north-west entrance rock is 2425 feet ;
10 feet below platform ; at south-east entrance rock
at 2408 feet, 8 feet below surface of Sanctuary; and
at 20 feet below surface a conduit for water opens
into the cistern.
It is over the north-western end of this tank that
I have to suggest was the position of the Altar of
Burnt-offerings.
It is extremely interesting to find the following in
Mejir cd Din, as it possibly refers to an older legend,
which some readers may have heard of (“ Mines
Orient,” p. 94) :—
_ ©The Dome of the Roll. This is on the platform
of the Sakhra on the south-west. I have been told
Pa ay eee Ce 9
208 RECOVERY QE JERUSALEM.-
that it is so called because one of the ancient kings,
on a visit to Jerusalem, having ascended the Mount
of Olives, threw a roll which fell here; which gave
occasion to the building of the Dome and to its name.
Men have invented divers accounts of the matter;
God only knows the truth.”
This Dome of the Roll would have stood over
cistern 5, very near where it is suggested the altar
stood; and the legend appears likely to be older than
the Moslem era. It is evident that Mejir ed Din
relates only one account of many that he knew. The —
Jews at the present day affirm that the volume of the
Sacred Law is buried somewhere in the Sanctuary,
tor which reason it is forbidden to them to enter;
and there is a legend given in one of the works of
Jerusalem stating how this volume was found.
No. 6. Rock 2410 feet 6 inches; at 5 feet 6 inches
from surface. ,
No. 7. Rock 2411 feet; at 5 feet from surface.
No. 8. Rock generally 2411; at 5 feet below
surface. This is called the Great Sea. The rock
was viewed at the entrances and at the steps, .
No. 9. Rock appeared to be about 2400 feet, but
not for certain, This is called the Well of the Leaf,
No. 10. Rock 2387 feet; at 31 feet below surfage.
This tank commfinicates with Solomon’s Stables and
the canal under the Triple Gate.
No. 11. Examined 11th November, 1867. Situate
on east of Mosque of Aksa. Rock 2397; at 19 feet
below surface; bottom 61 feet 6 inches below surface
‘of ground. It consists of three tanks, each about
26 feet by 40 feet, lying east and west, connected by a
TANK NBAR BAB HYTTA. 209
= : a ae
passage 14 feet wide, running north and south ; it is
capable of holding about 700,000 gallons of water.
The roof is cut in rock, in the form of arches. Steps
cut in the rock run up along the west side, and issue
close to the mouth of the cistern. There is the founda-
tion of a massive wall on the rock to west of steps.
The vaulted passage from the Triple Gate runs
over this cistern.
No. 12. Rock, partially on surface, 2406 fect.
No. 13. Rock on surface 2409 feet; of an irre-
gular shape, about 30 feet square; sides per-
pendicular, roof partially domed in rock, ribs of rock
‘ springing from angles. A conduit for surface-water
-ameg in from’ the east; it comes from a receiving
tank 250 feet farther to the north, between Nos. 15
and 18. It is built close in under the surface of
the Sanctuary.
No. 14, Rock 2409 feet ;. on surface.
Signor Pierotti, Plate XL, shows the cisterns Nos.
12, 13, and 14, as communicating one with another,
They have no connection with each other at present,
neither is there any sign of the conduit running in
from Nos. 1 to 13, which he shows on his plate.
No. 15. Cistern near the Golden Gate, nearly
circular; about 18 feet in diameter, and cut and
roofed in rock. :
Rock about 2393 feet; about 15 feet below surface.
Nos. 16 and 17; near Birket Israil; no rock found.
See letter of February Ist, 1869.
Substructure in the Sanetuary, near Bab Hytta
(eatract).—* At the northern end of the Sanctuary
east of Bab Hytta are two tank mouths, 16 and 17,
P
210 RECO VERY OF JERUSALEM.
which were not examined by Captain Wilson. They
are closed by heavy stones. To the west:-of these is
a private garden which projects out into and forms
part of the Sanctuary ; in this garden are two other
tank mouths. I examined one of these some months
ago, but was unable to get down the other on account
of the small size of the opening. On Monday last I
went again to this garden to have another try at
these cisterns, and first examined that to the west,
which is simply a tank about 8 feet by 15 feet, with
a semicircular arch over it and no appearance of rock
about it. I then went to the other, situate-at the
south-east angle of the little garden, which at” this
point is elevated about 10 feet above the Sanctnass
at mouth of 17 (the mouth 17 appears to beat an
elevation of 2413 feet). On sounding I found it
42 feet down to the water. I tried to descend, but
to no purpose, until I had nearly stripped to the skin,
and even then in my contortions I managed to slip
the rope over one arm. The narrow passage was
only for 3 feet, and 10 feet from the surface I came
on the floor of a little chamber about 6 feet square,
apparently on a level with the Sanctuary. The
shaft down to the cistern continues through the floor
of this chamber, and is a moderate-sized opening.
On getting down to the water I found it only 3 feet
deep, and concluding from the size of the cistern that
help would be required in measuring, I signalled for
Sergeant Birtles to come down.
“On lighting up the magnesium wire and looking
about me, I was astonished, my first impression being
that IT had’ got into a church similar to that of the
a
TANK NEAR BAB HYTTA. 211
cathedral: (formerly a mosque) at Cordova. I could
ee arch- upon arch to north and east, apparently
yows of them.
| “ After floundering about some little distance, how-
ever, I could see that there was a limit to these
substructures at no great distance to north and east.
In the mean time Sergeant Birtles was making great
efforts above with very little result; do what “he
would he could not get past the narrow opening to
the cistern, and at last had to give up the trial and
go and get leave from the owner to pull down the
upper mouth of the shaft, and then he very soon
appeared at. the bottom, his shoulders considerably
injured in his exertions. In the mean time the excite-
ment of our “find” had begun to wear off, and the
water felt cold. I was just giving the sergeant some
sage advice as to how he could direct his steps to
the best advantage, when I stumbled over a large
stone and fell into the water flat on my face. As
just at present the weather is frosty, and the rain is
generally accompanied by sleet or hail, a bath in
one’s clothes is anything but pleasant. I found the
stones on which I stumbled to be about six in number:
they average about 7 feet in length, and 3 feet in
depth and width. I could sce no inscriptions on
them ; they appear to have fallen in by accident.
“The substructure, now used asa tank, is 63 feet
from north to south, and 57 feet from east to west,
thus being néarly square ; its northern wall is 28 feet
6 inches from the south side of the Birket Israil. It
consists of nine rectangular bays, formed by four
piers, cruciform on plan, equidistant from each other
212 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM. ,
and from the walls, from which spring arches. Thb
arches between the piers, and between the .twd
northern piers and walls are stilted and pointed ; those
from the two southern piers to the walls appear to b
flying buttresses, unless the remainder of these arches
are concealed behind the east, west, and south walld
of the substructure. The dimensions of arches and!
piers all yary somewhat, which may arise from the
thick eget. of plaster which exists up to the tops of:
these arches, that is, to about 14 feet above the floor’
of the tank. These arches support nothing, they
merely strengthen the picrs and resist any lateral
thrust against the side walls.
“The whole of the substructure is covered in by
vaults intersecting in groins over the bays. Surface-
ribs (of cut stone) are thrown over from the piers to
the sides, the remainder of the arches being composed
_ of rag-work ; the vaults are pointed. The springing
of the vault surface-ribs is 14 feet above the floor of
the substructure, and the cement does not reach
higher than that point. The vaults from springing
to crown are also about 14 feet in height, giving a
total of 28 feet from floor to crown,
“In the south wall is a staircase leading up to the
surface of Sanctuary, which I understand has been
open within the memory of man. Near the bottom
of the steps is a shaft leading up to entrance No. 17,
and in the centre bay is an opening leading up to
entrance No.16. There is no appearance of an open
continuation of these vaults in any direction, There
is an opening on the northern side about 2 feet in
height and_1 foot wide, on a level with the top of the
TANK NEAR BAB HYTTA. 218
cement, which lets in light; .and on examining the
pool Birket Israil I finda grating in the south wall
(2 feet square) exactly opposite the opening in the
substructure, and which undoubtedly communicates
with it, but whether directly through the thickness
of the wall, or whether through another chamber in
the wall, has yet. to be determined; through this
opening any superflnous water in the substructure
would flow into the Birket Israil.
“These vaults are unlike any known tanks in
Jerusalem, and go very different from the substruc-
tions at the south-east angle Haram Area. I do not
think that such a structure as ‘this was built merely
for a tank; and if it was simply to support the
present surface of the Haram, then there is probably
more of it to be found to south and cast.
“We were altogether three hours in the water
measuring, and I took everything I could get at, and
have put the most important measurements on the
10 feet to an inch plan.
“The vaults look small when compared to the
Birket Israil in section, but then the Birket is really
an enormous reservoir, nearly 100 feet deep. :
“ The large stones I found huddled together at the
bottom in the water, are, I think, evidence of the
roof having once fallen in and been replaced.”
See woodcut, showing section through the Birket
Israil (Page 191).
No. 18. Near the Serai. Rock 2414 feet; 4 feet
from surface: a small tank 7 feet by 10 feet and 38 feet
deep.
Nos. 19 and 20. These are described in the Ap-
214 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
iT
pendix to-Captain Wilson’s O. S. notes. In No. 19
there is no appearance of rock at 2374 feet,
No, 21. South of Birket Israil, 21 feet deep,
24 feet by 12 feet of masonry; no appearance of
rock,
No. 22. Near the gate of the Inspector, A
large cistern of the type found down by Beit Jebrin -
and Deir Dubin. It is cut and roofed in rock,
domed. A flight of rock-cut steps runs round the
curved wall: there are two openings into it from
above, now closed up. Rock 2416 feet; 4 feet
belowsurface.
No. 23. Rock 2429 feet, on surface; tank retort-
shaped, about 8 feet in diameter and 35 feet deep:
situated at north-west angle of platform.
No. 24. Rock’ 2425 feet; 9 feet below surface of
platform. The rock is here exposed under the vault’
of a building ; it falls at an angle of about 30° to west;
’ this is probably referred to by Mejir ed Din ( Mines
@Orient,” p.91): “On the west side of the Mesjid are
rocks said to be of the time of David. It is evident
they are natural rocks rooted in the ground and never
removed.”
No. 25. Rock 2416 feet; 20 feet from surface :
asmall tank about 12 feet in diameter and 37 feet
deep ; situate a few feet south of No. 24,
No. 26. In garden east of Nos. 16 and 17: a small
tank ; no rock seen,
No. 27. In garden at north-west angle of Sanctuary ;
it is cut in the scarped rock.
No. 28. Rock 2412 feet; 3 feet from surface ;
situate “at north-east angle of platform; it is cut
DOUBLE PASSAGE. ‘ 215
ih the rock, and is about 10 feet in diameter. Its
position is of importance, as it shows that the scarped
,rock found in No. 29, along northern edge of plat-
form, did not extend so far east as this point,
- No. 30 is the cistern which pierces the Sanctuary
wall,.south of the gate of the Bath; it is described
in Captain Wilson’s notes; rock was not found
there,
No, 32 is a small tank in the Aksa (place of
women): it apparently leads from the Well of the
Leaf.
No, 33 is a small tank north of the Aksa, under
the stairs going down to the double passage rock.
Double Passage below the Aksa.—Search was made
on all sides of this passage. The “ Well of the Leaf”
was-examined, and at the bottom was found a curious
arch of tiles (like Malaga bricks): it has the appear-
ance of having acted as an outlet to some subterranean
flow of water. In examining the aqueduct which
leads through the double passage to the well, a
blocked-up passage was found, and, on removing the
rubbish, it was found to lead into several ducts, which
the. plan* will best describe: they are about 5 feet
below the present Haram surface, and are similar to
those beneath the Sakhra platform: one of them is
rendered with a very curious plaster of broken
pebbles, and somewhere in its length it is possible
there may be the shaft to a tank beneath, as the
inclination of the ducts appears to be towards this
passage. 7
At the north end of the double passage, to the east,
* Lithograph, No. 9.
216 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
there is a vestibule or vaulted chamber 17 feet square }
‘its arch is similar in construction to that of the)
northern part of the double passage. . It may perhaps ° :
have been built to serve as a Bnantreon or poner 8}
lodge to the gate. : \
Entrance to the “ Tomb of Aaron’s Sons,” at saith
end of double passage below the Aksar—“ Within the’
gate I have removed the stones and examined the
passage through the wall; itis about 10 feet 6 inches
thick, and very rough on the inside. It is backed up
with earth. I do not see any signs of the continua-
tion of vaults or buildings to the west of this passage :
this is an important negative discovery.”
“ Standing-place of Elias” in the Aska —*The
end of the passage or doorway here was broken
through ; it is about 1 foot 6 inches thick. Behind
it is a mass of loose rubbish, and after. removing
_ about a ton of it I was able to get through, but
could see nothing to lead me to suppose that there
is anything beyond but made earth.
“The conclusion I have come to after making these
excavations is that the “ Double Passage” is a tunnel
built through the made earth of the Haram Area,
and quite unconnected with any vaults on either side.
I can only account for the ducts I have found to the
west of it by supposing that at one time the passage*
only extended for 190 feet from the south wall of the”
enclosure (at which time the Aksa Mosque could not
have been in existence), and that the ducts were used
for collecting the surface water.- When the Aksa
was built, it appears that the passage was extended to
its present length (260 feet), but on the east side only,
“STANDING PLACE OF ELIAS.” 217
as a heavy mass of masonry supporting a considerable
portion of the Mosque rests just where the western -
~ passage. should come ; also, it appears that in order to
prevent the arch of this extended passage cropping
up above the Haram surface, it was necessary to cut
down the old ramp to a gentle slope, and. by that
means to cut through the duct leading to the Well of
the Leaf. I find there is a break in the arch of the
eastern passage just where the western terminates, and
‘the ramp at’that point also changes its inclination.
“No, 34 is close to No. 2, at north-east angle of
platform ; it was examined, but not measured ; it is of
an irregular shape, cut in the rock, and perhaps
GO feet in diameter: at the north-east angle is a
passage cut in the rock which appears to terminate
after about 10 feet. Rock 2431,”
218 ~ RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
CHAPTER VIII.
IMPORTANT DISCOVERY NORTH OF THE PLATFORM OF
THE DOME OF THE ROOK (“ MOSQUE OF OMAR ”).
No. 29. Letter of December 8th, 1868,—“Going
over the Noble Sanctuary to see if I could trace
any resemblance between the plan in Dr. Light-
foot’s “ Prospect of the Temple” and the present form
of the ground, and passing by the northern edge
of the “Mosque of Omar” Platform, I saw that
the earth had been lately disturbed at the foot of
the eastern steps, and on asking the Sheikh of the
Mosque about it, he said that after the heavy rains,
three days before, the ground had given way, and
that they had found an entrance to substructions
as large as those at the south-east angle. I suggested
to him that the hole had been badly filled in, and that
it would probably give way again. This morning we
went early to the Haram Area, and happened to
come upon this place just a few minutes after tk paols*
had opened a second time. We went down inv.
and made an examination. ;
“Tt is a souterrain running east and west in the:
line of the northern edge of the Mosque Platform,
It consists of an arched passage of 18 feet span,
220 ‘RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
cleanly scarped from the rock, just as is the southern |
end of the bays.
“The masonry in the walls is of very miscellaneous
character; in some cases large and small squared
stones, and in some places coarse rubble. On the
northern side of the vault are two passages, about
2 feet wide and 6 feet high, which are blocked up
after about 8 feet; they have the appearance of being
in connection with other vaults to the north ; they are
roofed over with stone slabs..-
“To east and west the Souterrain is blocked up with
rubbish, fallen in from above ; but it appears to extend
in both directions, though towards the west there is
an indication of a portion of the arch having given
way. ‘To the south the rock rises to about the spring-
ing of the arches; that is to say, to about 12 feet from
the surface of the ground, or to about 18 feet below
. the Mosque Platform. Above the rock, the ends of
the bays are filled in with coarse rubble, and it is
doubtful whether they: extend beneath the Mosque
Platform. In the eastern bay there is an arched door-
way, or communication, which is filled up with coarse
rubble, “°
“The Souterrain has no appearance of having been
constructed fer a tank ; there is not a sign of plaster
about, and the rock appears to have been scarped for
view : it differs in most respects from the tanks ise _
Sanctuary, and was apparently built for the purpose
of raising up the Sanctuary to a general level. The
- arches appear to be Saracenic. For several months I
have been seeking an opportunity to examine the
ground on the northern side of the Mosque Platform,
DRAIN CUT IN THE SAKHRA. 221
near the western steps, as I am convinced there are
vaults there (from the hollow sound of the ground),
and my impression now is, that the Souterrain just
discovered extends all along the northern edge of the
platform.
“T do notsee that the Souterrain supports the posi-
tion of the Temple, obtained by the application of
Dr. Lightfoot’s plan to the existing plan, as sent
home by the mail. It may with reason be claimed by
one party as the ditch on the northern wall of the
Temple, and by.the other as the northern ditch of
Antonia, It, howeyer, limits the space on which the
Temple could have stood, and as other knowledge is
gained it may become a strong point in settling the
matter. .
“N.B—The scarped rock was only visible to a
depth of 12 feet, but there was no indication of any .
termination.”
IMPORTANT DISCOVERY ON THE SAKHRA.
“On Thursday, April 8th, 1869, I visited the Dome
of the Rock with a view to examining two pieces of
flagging which appeared to be lying upon it. They
are horizontal, and extend in a northerly direction for
5 feet in prolongation of a gutter shown on the
Ordance Survey detail plan; this gutter is cut out of
the solid rock, and leads from the western upper side
to the northern lower plateau. The flagging was
very heavy, and was found to conceal an opening in
the rock 5 feet long and 2 feet wide ; it continues due
north for 11 feet more, and is roofed in rock: the
222 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
rock is cut down perpendicularly at both sides and
also at the southern end, where the gutter leads im-
miediately into it; the pavement round to the Sakhra
cuts off this passage to north.
“When visited it was about 3 feet deep, but it was
filled up at the bottom with soft earth or rubbish,
and the real depth could not be ascertained. It ie not
easy to determine the object of this passage or cell; it
is unlike the tombs and loculi seen about Jerusalem,
and it can hardly have been for draining the rain-
water off the surface into a tank, as the gutter
commences from the higher portion of the rock.
“Sir John Maundeville relates (apparently of this
Dome of the Rock), a.p. 1322 :—
“* And in the middle of the Temple are many high
stages, 14 steps high, with good pillars all about, and
. this place the Jews call the Holy of Holies. No man,
except the prelate of the Saracens, who makes their
sacrifice, is allowed to come in there ; and the people
stand all about in divers stages, according to their
dignity or rank, so that they may all see the sacrifice.’
“ From this it would appear that the present exposed
rock was then concealed by a raised dais, with steps
. leading down all round, in which case the gutter may
have been used for carrying away the water when
the dais Was washed after the Moslem sacrifice.
“The chief Effendis, however, of Jerusalem have
told me that sheep are never sacrificed in the precincts,
of the Sanctuary, and deny that they ever have been. *
“Tt appeared to me that there was another piece of
flagging lying on the rock some feet to the east of
the two pieces I have described, but I had no oppor-
WATER SUPPLY. - 223
tunity of examining it, as this rock is very holy,
and the dust gathered from it once a year is swept
off by the Pacha, and. given or sold for the cure of
ophthalmia; itis therefore very seldom that anything
can be done there. There is a story about a hole
somewhat corresponding to the place where I thought
I saw the piece of flagging, through which an Effendi
told me his father had let down a plummet fora great
number of feet, until he had no more string left.
“T was in great hopes that there would have been
an opportunity for examining the Well of Spirits,
under the Sakhra, this spring. When the great
‘dearth commenced, an Effendi came and asked my
advice with regard to getting water for Jerusalem,
his only idea being that of pumping it up from the
Jordan, 18 miles off, and 4000 feet below us, After
showing him that there was sufficient water at the
sealed fountain above the pools of Solomon, near
Urtas, provided there were proper pipes, I asked him
if he had thought of any place nearer than that. No;
that was the reason he had come to me. He wanted
me to sink an Artesian well. I asked him where was
the source of all the rivers of the earth. ‘Under
the Sakhra!’ ‘Then why don’t you go there and
get it?. Would Allah be angry? He would not
care if Allah were angry, for he had been mocking
the people for two months by sending clouds without
rain, and was not good; why should he mock the
people? ‘Then why do you not try and get water
from under the Sakhra ?’ ‘ Because—did I think there
really was water there ?”
“T read to him the account of Jerusalem given by
224 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM .
Tacitus and also that given in the Mishna. He began
to be convinced, and said that at that.time the people
would think it sacrilege, but that in. another. month
they would, like him, think Allah was mocking them,
and would be glad to get at the hidden waters. Rain,
however, came in small quantities, and when I left
Jerusalem, on April 8th, the country was devered
with snow, consequently this Well of Spirits could
not be examined. ; :
*“Under the Dome of St. George, at the north-west
angle of the platform, isa chamber of which I never
could gét the key; it deserves examination.
“ At the south-west angle of the platform a tank is
spoken of by Mejir ed Din, and is shown on Pierotti’s
map. I could hear nothing of it. It is to be noted
that we now know seven cisterns on the platform,
which is the number given by Mejir ed Din. Search,
however, should be made for this tank; it should be
somewhere under where I suppose the Holy of Holies
to have been.
“There yet remains a considerable amount of work
to be done in the Sanctuary alone; all the surface
drains should be examined, and new tanks might be
found. Being so fully employed excavating, I had.
very little time for examining this place.
“Tt is perhaps worth noting that the Souterrain +
under the Convents of the Sisters of Sion is directed
straight upon the Sakhra.
“The scarped rock on the northern end of the Sance
tuary is found to extend from north-west angle to east.
for 352 feet, when it turns sharp to north. /
“On 12th November, 1867, I noted, ‘There is a
POSSIBILITIES. 225
point somewhere north of the Dome of the Rock
platform, where there may probably be a deep ditch
filled up with earth ; if not, it must be a natural valley,
as the rock-is entirely wanting on the surface.” I
have since come to the conclusion that this is a
natural valley, for if it were cut it would probably
have been made parallel to some of the walls. ‘There
can be no doubt about its being a hollow of some
kind. The rock, cut horizontally at the north-west
angle of the Sanctuary, suddenly terminates in a line
running north-east from the Gate of the’ Inspector,
and there is a space 150 feet wide, where no rock is
visible on surface; then again it suddenly appears
near the north-west angle of platform, also running
north-east.
“Tn reference to the contoured plan, it will be seen
that the rock slopes rapidly down from the northern
end of the platform, and I am under the impression
it is scarped all along from the steps at north-west
angle to nearly the north-east angle. We know
from the Souterrain No. 29 that at least 80 feet of
this length is scarped, It is suggested that the
northern edge of the platform is the northern front of
Ri g Herod’s Temple, and that here was the house of
King Hezevidh, spoken of by the early writers. I
imagine that here was the exhedra of the temple
spoken c.* by Josephus in the attack by Titus, and
that it was joined to the Antonia by cloisters across
the natural valley already spoken of.”
226 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
SOLOMON’S STABLES,
M. de Sauley (“ Voyage en Terre Sainte,” p. 9)
describes some remarkable rock-cut passages under
the Temple Gate, and Captain Wilson gives a plan
of them (0. 8., Plate XV.). Our first work in Jeru-
salem, 1867, was the examination of these canals ;
we found them blocked up to north by walls of hard
old masonry, and we were fortunate enough to be
able to get through these before our Vizieral letter
arrived excluding the Sanctuary from our excavations.
They were evidently the overflow canals connect-
ing the several tanks in the Sanctuary, and were
arranged so that the water might be let off at different
levels. It appears quite out of the question to suppose
they were used as channels for,carrying off the refuse
from the sacrifices; and it is possible they may have
been used as ducts for supplying water to the portion
of the city to south of the Sanctuary, and also for
flushing the blood channel, which appears likely to
have been that discovered under the Single Gate.
The canal appears to run from tank No. 11 along the
western passage of the Triple Gate, and enters tank
No. 10 by two ducts, one very small, along which I
crept sideways until I found it to open into No. 10, just
below the roof, and the other is about 3 feet wide and
5 feet high, and, besides entering into No. 10, also
branches off into wo rock“cut passages, the western
one being for water, and joins another Kading from
No, 10 at a lower level, and thence runs south; the
eastern one turns sharply to-the east just outside the |
SOLOMON'S s spapuns 227
Sanotary wall, and when Leas ar dee east arch of
‘Triple Gate, zigzags along just under the surface of
‘the ground, which here is close to the rock: this last
: passage does not appear to have been’ a water-
channel.
We were able to clear out these passages for 60
feet north of the Triple Gate before we were finally
stopped.
In the centre of the floor of the western canal there
is a duct cut down to a depth of 18 inches, with
about the same width; this was also the case with the
passage under the Single Gate, with the old aqueduct
’ discovered south of the Coenaculum, and also with one
of the passages in the so-called “ Cave of Adullam,”
at _Khureitun (noticed by Mr. Eaten). It can be
understood that with a moderate stream the water
would flow in the duct, while a person could walk
from step to step on either side without rendering it
impure,
At this time the entrance to the “ stables” was by
a hole through the crown of one of the arches open-
ing down from the Sanctuary above, and visitors used
generally to come down and see the place. The
young Sheikh of the Mosque, who acted as guide, used
often to be asked where our excavations had been,
and he invariably showed visitors a dangerous hole
made under the pier of one of the arches by some-
body, I suppose, in search of treasure. I was fre-
quently taxed with having‘ thade this hole, and had to
“refer peoplg.to the Ordnance Survey Plan, No. 15,
of 1865, where it is shown as having then existed ;
or else give them the answer the Sheikh of Siloam
228 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
gave the Chief Rabbi when the Tomb of J ehoshaphat
had been opened by somebody in search of old copies
of the law (for here they are said to be interred). The {
Rabbi sent down word to the Sheikh that it must be
closed up at once, and suggested that I was the |
guilty person, The Sheikh replied, “ You may be sure
that el Captain did not open the tomb, for if he had he
would have closed it up again, and nothing would
have been known of it.”
“ Solomon’s stables” are now very difficult of access.
The entrance from the Sanctuary through the hole
in the arch was closed up in 1868, in consequence of
reports of some of the troops having secreted them-
selves in the vaults when sent to prayers, and of
having eventually deserted. ‘There isan entrance from
“the Mosque of the Cradle of our Lord Jesus,” but it
has been plastered up for some years.
At present there are only two means of entry, the
' one through a loophole (9 inches wide and 19 inches
high) on the staircase leading to the “ Mosque of the
Cradle” bya drop of 40 feet, past an overhanging
mass of crumbling masonry, an entrance which,
having once accomplished in safety, I would not wish
to try again.
The other entry is by getting down tank No. 10
from the floor of the Sanctuary, and then up again by
the Triple Gate canal (already mentioned) into
the “ stables.”
Letter 38; February 11th, 1869.—“ A few days ago,
finding that I still required some measurements for the
completion of an elevation of the western wall of the
A RECONSTRUCTION. 299
vaults, I went in through tank No. 10. You enter
from the surface of the Haram Area. There is first a
shaft about 16 inches square, and about 31 feet to top
of the tank (rocky then a drop of 24 feet to bottom of
tank, and 18 feet up again to the aqueduct leading
to the vaults. The small ladder we could get down
was only 12 feet long, and another, which we even-
tually got to lash on, was of slender proportions,
having been made to assist young pigeons in getting
up to their cote; the two together did not reach up
to the hole, and we had considerable difficulty in
getting up.
~ “Tn tank No. 10, in the roof of rock, is a space of
. 4 feet, covered by a flat white stone, and Sergeant
Birtles observed some carving upon it. It can only
be scen in a certain light, but I have made an
approximate sketch of its appearance. It must be
nearly 30 feet below the surface of the Haram Area,
and is probably very ancient, as it would appear to
have been put over the cistern before the débris
accumulated. .
“ On this occasion we examined and made elevations
of the inside of the Triple Gate and west wall of the
passage; no traces could be found of any ‘colossal ~”
monoliths’ about the gateway (‘Murray’s Hand-
book,’ latest edition, p. 110); but there are. the--~
remains of engaged columns in the gateway and the
west wall of passage, which appear to show that there
was originally a vestibule here somewhat similar to
that ai the Double Gate.
“ As the west wall of this Triple Gate passage is
supposed by Mr. Fergusson to have been the east wall
230 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.’
of Herod’s Temple, and as it has never been, doceibed\
it will be necessary to go into the matter,
“The Triple Gate has three semicircular arches.
on the exterior ; in the interior they are elliptical, and
have a greater span, so that the doors might fold back
flush with the points.
“The west wall of: the passage is formed of. piers
"4 feet wide and about 10 feet apart, with semicircular
arches thrown over, on which rests the vault cover-
ing the passage ; between the piers rough walls ‘of
ashlar are built up, forming recesses ‘about 18 inches:
deep. There is nothing ancient in the construction of
these piers or of the wall, except the remains of an
engaged column, which is apparently in. situ, at 60
feet from the south wall of the Sanctuary ;‘ there is
only the lower course of this left, it rests on the rock
and has‘ no base mouldings. * After 192 feet from the
Sanctuary Wall the piers’ and arches terminate, and
the wall is built up of ashlar very irregular i in size;
here and there a stone of “considerable size being
worked in, and on one of these false joints are cut.
The passage on the west side has been cut down
through the rock to a depth of about 8 feet, and it is
found here and there in the wall to that height. The
point in the wall where a lintel of a doorway has
supposed to have existed is simply where the
rock crops up wi horizontal crevice running along
it at the line of the roatraye- ~
“The west side of passage lies almost entirely on
the rock, and rises at about an angle of one in twétve+
at the sill of the gate it is 38 feet below the level of
the Sanctuary ; at 192 feet from the Triple Gate to
TRIPLE GATE. 931
north the original passage terminates, and it is con-
tinued by a more modern arch and wall. It is'to be’.
remarked that at very nearly the same distance from’
thé Double Gate the original double tunnel terminates.
“On either side in the piers of the western arch’
of the Triple Gate are engaged columns similar to
that in the wall, only the lower coursa.of each is left,
and they have no base mouldings.
“Underneath the passage in the rock is tak No. 11,
whose roof is-only about 4 feet thick, and runs ander
the western wall of” passage. .An excavation was
made’a short distance through ‘the wall, under an arch.
in the western side of passage; it appears to be built
.up merely to retain\the earth and. rubbish which,
exists to the west. 2
. “There is nothing whatever. in this wall that can
give it the slightest pretensions to be considered as.
the exterior wall of the Temple, and the remains of
ancient engaged columns, in situ, tend to show that it
was a gateway of about the same style as the Double
Gate, and is very ‘kely at that time .to lave exactly
corresponded to it in only having two passages, ;
“Mr. Fergusson shows very clearly that the.Roy: al
Cloisters of King Herod could not have stood on the
south-eastern portion of, the Sanctuary as it now’
exists, on account of the irregularity in the spans of
the vaults, but it seems hardly necessary to prove that
Herodian work did not stand ‘upon work which is
evidently of a much later period. It is quite evident;
with the exception of the large course running along
the level of the floor of the stables, and the bit of
inasonry exactly at the south-east angle, that the:
232 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
‘whole of Solomon’s Stables is a reconstruction from
the floor upwards, and it is probable, from the remains
of an arch (described, p. 37, O. S. notes, by Captain
Wilson) at the south-east angle; that the original
vaulting was of a much more solid and massive
character. It is to be recollected that the floor of the
stables is found to be 107 feet above the base of tht
wall, so that the 40 feet of reconstruction is in com-
parison slight ; but at the south-east angle itself the
stones appear to have never been displaced since the
building of the wall, and I have to suggest that this
may have’ been the so-called pinnacle of the Temple
alluded to by so many of the early writers, as most
authorities of the present day concur in supposing
that some object at the south-east angle of Sanctuary
is alluded to.
“Signor Pierotti (‘ Jerusalem Explored’ p. 77) tells
us that the chamber containing ‘the Cradle of our:
Lord Jesus’ is partly excavated in the rock, but our
excavations show that its floor is nearly 120 feet above
the rock.”
AQUEDUCTS. ° 233
CHAPTER. IX.
TIE WATERS OF JERUSALEM. ;
Tuwsr have been classed by Captain Wilson in
O. S. Notes, under the heads of Springs, Tanks, and
. Aqueducts..
The aqueducts are supposed to have been three
in number, leading at different levels from near
Solomon’s Pools; of these the low level aqueduct
is still in use—that is to say, it was repaired a few
years ago, but in so ineffectual a manner that it is
very seldom that it carries water into Jerusalem,
and when it does do so, it runs: to the Pasha’s Palace,
the Judgment Hall, and the Great Sea under the
Mosque, from whence it is drawn up and sold to
the people about the place, but it is of no advantage
to the Jewish and Christian inhabitants. This low
level aqueduct is for the most part carried along”
near +he surface of the ground about Jerusalem, but
ther .s no doubt it originally was dug in the rock
w’. shafts at intervals for supplying the houses it
passed undex,
Extract of Letter, September 2nd; 1867“ ] have
made what I consider to be a very important dis-_
k ae
234 . RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
covery, viz, an ancient aqueduct, south-east corner..
of the Coenaculum, and about 50 feet north of the
present aqueduct—I have no doubt the original
aqueduct from Solomon’s Pools to the Sanctuary.”
We dug out the earth from a cut stone shaft 2 feet
square, and at 16 feet was a channel running from
the west to the north-east, precisely similar in con-
struction to the passages under the Triple Gate. It
varies very much in size; sometimes we could crawl
on hands and knees, then we had to creep sideways,
again we lay on our backs and wriggled. along, but
still it was always large enough fora man of ordinary
dimensions. In parts built of masonry, in parts cut
out of solid rock, it is generally of a semi-cy¥indrical
shape; butin many parts it has the peculiar shoulders,
which I have: only seen under the Triple Gateway,
but which I told you in my last letter had been
noticed by Mr. Eaten, in the channel leading towards
Tekoah, To north-east we traced the channel for
“250 feet, until we were stopped by a shaft which was
filled. with earth; to the west we traced it for 200
feet, till it was stopped in the same manner. -_In part
of this passage we could stand upright, it being 10
or 12 feet high, with the remains of two sets of
stones for covering, as shown in M. Piazzi Smyth’s
work on the Great Pyramid; the stones at the sides
‘being of great size—12 feet by 6. This channel is
evidently of ancient construction. It is built in
lengths as though the work had been commenced at
several points, and had not been directed correctly.
The plaster is in good preservation.
“The aqueduct was traced for 700 feet, and at either
ANCIENT AQuED UCT. 235
end it was s found to be crossed and used by the
present low level aqueduct, it being at the same
level, but the entrances are much farther up the hill
on account of the cutting being so deep, in one place
29 feet below present surface.
“Tt is apparent that the builder of the present low
level aqueduct made use of the original one wherever
it was convenient.
“This rock-cut aqueduct (discovered in 1867) has
no appearance of being a Roman work, though we
are informed by Josephus (Ant. xviii. 3, 2) that
Pilate, the Procurator of Judea, brought water ‘into
J erusglem from a distance of 200 furlongs.
“TS high level aqueduct was traced by Captain
Wilson to a short distance beyond Rachel’s Tomb,
and we have since traced it along the right-hand side
of the road for several hundred yards, until about
half-way between Mar Elias and Jerusalem, where it
has been ploughed up. It is supposed to have crossed
from hence the plain of Rephaim (so called), and to .
have flowed into a pool lately discovered on the high
ground to the west of the citadel, from thence it would
naturally flow into the Birket Mamilla, or Upper
Pool of Gihon, and so-be carried along the line
of the existing aqueduct from that pool to the
citadel.”
Extract of Letter.—“ Nothing could be seen any-
where of the third aqueduct, and 1 could find no
trace of any outlet in its supposed direction in the
passage leading from the Sealed Fountain to Solomon’s
Pools, which we explored for nearly 500 feet, until
p 9
236 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
we were close to the head of the upper peel Here
we were unable to procced, the mud and water being
up to our hips, and the accumulation of bats all driven
into a small space being more than we could contend
against, our candles being blown out by the nasty
little animals, which got entangled in our hair and
beards, and were most unpleasant in their antics.
We left a mark on the walls, and I intend re-examin-
ing the passage from the end close to the pool, where
there is an opening and vault very like that covering
the Souterrain under the convent of the Sveurs
de Sion. I have made a plan of the chambers and
entrances for water at the Sealed Fountain. There
is a very small flow at present, but near thé Upper
Pool of Solomon it is joined by @ rush of water
from a highcr level, apparently from the aqueduct
of Wady Byar, which, however, is dry a few hundred
yards higher up. Probably there may be another
sealed fountain to the south-east of that known at
present. There is plenty of water at this point to
keep the high level aqueduct going ali the summer,
should it ever be repaired, and that without inter-
fering with the supply to Bethlehem and Jerusalem
by the low level conduit.
“During the late dearth of water in Jerusa.
(1870), it was reported that the flow from this s -aled
fountain was greater than usual, and yet the Mejelis
took upon themselves to refuse the munificent cer
of Miss Burdett Coutts to supply Jerusalem -with
water: The passive resistance of these local Moslem
authorities is easily explained: the water supplied
to the city would come in at the higher level, and
POOL OF HEZEKIAH. 237
a
would supply the Christian and Jewish part of the.
population who inhabit the higher portions of the
city. ‘The richer Moslems, who live for the most
part around the Sanctuary, are able to obtain water
from its tanks when their own run dry, and can
‘command a further supply .from the Great Sea
at any time, by repairing the low level aqueduct;
they therefore would to a certain extent lose money
(the monopoly of the low level stream) by the
scheme, and they think they might run also the chance
of losing the supply altogether from the low level
aqueduct, ;
“The water from the Birket Mamilla appears, after
passing the citadel, to have flowed as at present into
the pool of the Bath, or, as it is called, of Hezekiah.
‘This pool, I am under the impression, was Gihon-in-
the-valley, where Solomon was anointed king. It is
to be noticed that the Gihon-in-the-valley is often
shown as the Birket-es-Sultan, but this is not in
accordance with 2 Chron. xxxiii. 14: ‘Now after
this he built a wall without the city of David, on
the west side of Gihon, in the valley,’ which shows
that the lower Gihon is to be looked for within the
city.
It has been suggested by some that the pool of
Silo: a is the lower Gihon, but this can hardly be
called the west side of Sion, peither is it apparent
how a wall would then have’ been built to its west.
By supposing Sion to be identical with Acra of the
Maccabees, the lower pool of Gihon at once falls into
its place on the site of the pool of the Bath, and the
wall of Manasseh would be the supposed wall to its
238 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
ieee, anoa as the ei wall by many reulhorticn
on Jerusalem.
“ After passing into the lower Gihon, or Gihon-in-
the-valley (the valley which runs down from the
Jaffa Gate to the Sanctuary), the overflow water
probably was conducted along this valley until when
near Wilson’s Arch it turned to south along the
rock-cut canals we have found under Robinson’s
Arch; from thence down the Tyropeeon Valley to
the pool of Siloam, where it would be met with the
‘waters from the Virgin’s Fount. :
“There are two pools of Siloam, a small one itp
which the waters from the Virgin’s Fount fall after
issuing from the tunnel, the other a larger pool now
nearly filled up. This latter I suppose to have been
the pool dug by King Hezekiah, and to be that going
under the name of Siloam in Josephus (War v. 10, 4)
and the ‘king’s pool’ in the first chapter of the
prophet Nehemiah.
“The question of the origin of the Virgin’s Fount
aqueduct is a very interesting one; it appcars to me
to have been constructed in the following manner :
“First, an intermittent fountain on the east side
of the Kedron issuing into the valley. When the
Assyrians were expected by King Hezekiah, the
fountains outside the city were stopped and the water
brought inside. This applies completely to this
fountain, for we find a canal cut in the rock leading
due wesé till it is well under the hill of Ophel, then
_ a shaft-down to this canal with a place scooped
out at bottom for water to lie in, and an iron ring at
top to tie the rope of the bucket to; leading from
VIRGIN'S FOUNT. 289
this shaft is a. great corridor cut in the rock, and
then also a staircase leading up until it is under a
vaulted roof, the exit being on the hill of Ophel, a
few feet from the ridge, and almost certainly within
the ancient walls, Below the vaulted roof is another
rock-cut shaft shown on the illustration, but. this
was only examined to.a depth of about 35 feet.
“ Apparently after this had been in use for some
time, it was considered insufficient for the supply of
the city, as the receiving hole at the bottom of the
shaft is so small and the corridor so confined for
a large number of people; and so a rock-cut channel
‘was cut through the hill, 1700 feet long, to carry
the water into the pool of Hezekiah, which already
received the overflow water from the Gihon Pools.
This pool was probably without the wall, but being
at the mouth of the valley it would be surrounded on
three sides by the outer wall, and would thus be as
secure for the people as though it were inside; at the
same time it would act as a wet ditch to protect a
very vulnerable part of the fortress. This passage
from the Virgin’s Fountain to Siloam has been
examined by several gentlemen, but to most of them
some accident happened, so that only measurements
were taken. Le Frére Liéven (author of the very
useful French -Guide to the Holy Land), apparently
took angles with an ordinary compass, and I found
his plan of the canal, which he lent me to compare
with mine, to be very correct.”
Extract ‘from Letter of December 12th, 1867.—*I have
240 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
from the Virgin’s Fount to Siloam. “We entered
from the Siloam end, so as to have as much clean
work as possible. or the first 350 feet. it was very
plain sailing; the height of passage sloping down
from 16 feet at entrance to 4 feet 4 inches; the
width 2 feet; the direction a wavy line to the east.
At 450 feet the height of passage was reduced to
3 feet 9 inches, and here we found a shaft leading
upwards apparently to the open air. This might be
made‘use of to great advantage by the owners of the .
soil overhead. From this shaftthe passage takes a —
north-casterly direction, and at 600 feet is only 2 feet
6 inches: high. Our difficulties now commenced.
Sergeant Birtles, with a fellah, went ahead, measuring
with tape, while I followed with compass and field
book.. The bottom is a soft silt, with a calcareous -
.erust at top, strong enough to bear the human
weight, except’ in a few places, where it lets one in
with a.flop. Our measurements of height were taken
from the*top of this crust, as it now forms the bottom
of the aqueduct; the mud silt is from 15 inches to
18 inches deep. We were now crawling all fours,
and thought we were getting on very pleasantly, the
- water being only 4 inches deep, and we were not wet,
higher than our hips. Presently bits of cabbage-
stalks came floating by, and we suddenly awoke to
the fact that the waters were rising: The Virgin’s
Fount is used as a sort of scullery to the Silwdn
village, the refuse thrown there being carried off
down the passage each time the water rises. “The.
rising of the waters had not been anticipated, as they
had risen only two hours previous to our entrance.
VIRGIN'’S FOUNT. 241
At 850 feet the height of the channel was reduced to
1 foot 10 inches, and here our ‘troubles began. The
water was running with great violence, 1 foot in
height; and we, crawling full length, were up to our
. necks in it. : :
“T was particularly embarrassed: one hand neces-
sarily wet and dirty,. the other holding a pencil, .
- compass, and field-book ; the candle for the most part
in my mouth. Another 50 feet brought us to a
place where we had regularly to run the gauntlet of
the waters. The passage being only 1 foot 4 inches
high, we had just 4 inches breathing space, and had
some difficulty in twisting our necks round. properly.
When observing, my mouth was under water. At
900 feet we came upon two false cuttings, one on
each side of the aqueduct. They goin for abdut
2 feet each. I could not discover any appearance of
their being passages: if they are, and are stopped up
for any distance, it will be next to impossible te clear
them out in such a place. Just here I involuntarily
swallowed a portion of my lead pencil, nearly choking
for a minute or two.” We were now going in a
zigzag direction towards the north-west, and the
height increased to 4 feet 6 inches, which gave us
a little breathing space ; but at_1050 feet we were
reduced to 2 feet 6 inches, and at 1100 fect we were
again crawling-with a height of ouly 1 foot 10 inches.
We should probably have suffered more from ‘the
cold than we did, had not our risible faculties been
excited by the sight of our fellah in front plunging
and puffing through the water like a young grampus.
> 2 us © Sa ae. ee as
Nee A> GPa Se inde tae Se & ek BY. he Se ewe
242 - RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
2 feet to 2 feet 6 inches; at 1400 we heard the
same sound of water dripping as described by
Captain Wilson, the Rev. Dr. Barclay, and others.
I carefully looked backwards and forwards, and at
last found a fault in the rock, where the water was
gurgling, but whether rushing in or out I could not
ascertain. At 1450 feet we commenced turning to
the east, and the passage attained'a height of 6 feet;
at 1658 feet we came upon our old friend, the
passage leading to the Ophel shaft (see next page),
and, after a further 50 feet, to the Virgin’s Fount.
Our candles were just becoming exhausted, and the ;
last three angles I could not take very exactly.
There were fifty-seven stations of the compass.
When we came out it was dark, and we had to stand
shivering for some minutes before our clothes were
brought us; we were nearly four hours in the water.
I find a difference of 42 feet between my measure-
ments and those of Dr. Robinson, but if he took
the length of the Virgin’s Fount into account, we
shall very nearly agree.”
The discovery of shaft down to the water of the
Virgin’s Fount threw considerable light upon the
object of the rock-cut canals about Jerusalem, as
proving they had been conjectured by some to have
been for conducting away the refuse and blood from
the temple.
Lextract from Letter of October 11th, 1867.— Virgin's
Fount or Ain Um-ed-Deraj —* This was an excavation
under the lowest step leading to the pool, in order to
examine the communication by which the water
VIRGIN’S FOUNT. 243
enters. As the pool is usually occupied by water-
carriers during the daylight, we went down about an
hour after sunset on Friday, the 4th instant, and with
three fellahin of Silwan, commenced removing the
pebbly deposit from under the steps. The Silwan
people, however, got wind of our proceedings, and
came trooping down in, a very excited state and
requested us to begone. By dint of chaffing they
eventually changed their tone and sent us coffee.
After, three hours’ work I found that there would be
more difficulty in opening the space under the steps
than I had anticipated, and hearing that during this
month there are few persons taking water from the
pool, I ordered the work to be resumed in the
morning.
“Tt appears that the village was divided on our
~ account, one cantankerous Sheikh taking it into his
head that we had no business out of our own country,
and in the ,;morning our men found that he had
effectually stopped our resuming the work by send-
ing a bevy of damsels there to wash, His scant
wardrobe, however, did not take long to beat up, and
sending down the men again in the afternoon, the
pool’ was found untenanted, and we resumed the
work and continued it on Saturday, the village
taking our working anywhere as a matter of course,
the Sheikh vowing vengeance on the men and
threatening to get them placed on “the Road,”
which is just being commenced from here to Jaffa
by forced labour. After removing the deposit under
the steps for 4 feet, a hard substance was reached,
either masonry or rock, and without the assistance of
Q44 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
divers or letting the water off, it would be very”:
difficult to continue the search in this direction any
farther. The other point of entrance of the water is’
a deep hole of 4 feet in the middle of the pool, at
which nothing can be done. Finding our attempts
thus abortive, I had part of the rock-eut passage to
the pool of Siloam examined, and Sergeant Birtles
found two passages leading into it from the north-
west, the farther one being the largest, and being
about 50 feet from the entrance to the pool. At this
we commenced to open. It was difficult work, full
of hard mud, which had to be carried for 50 feet
through the water of the passage, and then taken up
. the steps leading to the pool. The men seldom have—~
much more than their heads above water when
removing the soil, and sometimes the water suddenly
rises, and there is danger of their being choked, The
passage was cleared out 17 feet to-day, and a small
cave was arrived at, being the bottom of a deep shaft
eut in the solid rock. It is difficult at present to
form an opinion on the subject. We must erect a
scaffolding to get to the top of the shaft, which
appears at least 40 fect in height, and is cut in the
rock. The magnesium wire has come.at a very
pportune time.”
Extract from Leiter of October 28th, 1867,—* T6-
day, October 24th, having managed to obtain a small
quantity of wood after infinite trouble, we went
down to the Fountain shortly after sunrise; we had
some 12-feet battens 2 feet square, but were obliged
to cut them in half, as 6-fect lengths could only be
POOL ore SILOAM. 245
. got into the passage ; the water was unusually low,
- and we managed to crawl through on our bare knees
without wetting our upper clothing very much,
which was fortunate, as we had the whole day before
us. After passing through the pool we had to crawl
50 feet, and then came upon the new passage, which
is 17 feet long, opening into the shaft. The bottom
of this shaft is (now that the deposit is removed)
lower by about 3 feet than the bottom of the aqueduct,
and was evidently filled from the Virgin’s Fountain.
The length of the shaft averages 6 feet, and width
4 feet. ‘We had a carpenter with us, but he was
‘very slow, and. quite unused to rough-and-ready style
ef work, and the labour of getting up the scaffolding.
devolved on Sergeant Birtles and myself, the fellahin
bringing in the wood and handing it to us. Once,
while they were bringing in some frames, the spring
suddenly rose, and they were awkwardly placed for a
few minutes, being nearly suffocated. :
“By jamming the boards against the sides of the
shaft. -we suceeeded in getting up 20 feet, when we
commenced the first landing, cutting a check in the
rock for the frames to rest on, and made a good firm
job of it. Then, with four uprights resting on ‘this,
we commenced a sccond landing. On lighting a
piece of magnesium wire at this point, we could see,
20 feet above us, a piece of loose masonry impending
directly over our heads; and as several loose pieces
had been found at the bottom, it occurred to both of
us that our position was critical. Without speaking
of it, we eyed each other ominously, and wished we
246 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
us 27. feet above the bottom of the shaft. The for-
mation of the third was very difficult; and, on
getting nearly to the loose piece of masonry, we
found it more dangerously placed than we had
imagined, and weighing about 8 ewt. So we
arranged it that the third landing should be a few
inches under this loose mass, so as to break its fall
and give us a chance. This third landing was 38 feet
above the bottom of the shaft. We floored it with
triple boards. It was ticklish work, as an incautious
blow would have detached the mass; and I doubt if
our work would have stood the strain, About 6 feet
above landing No, 3 the shaft opened out to west
into a great cavern, there being a sloping ascent up
at an angle of 45°, covered with loose stones about a
foot cube. Having hastily made a little ladder, I
went up; and very cautious I had to be. The
stones seemed all longing to be off; and one starting
would have sent the mass rolling, and me with it, on
top of the Sergeant, all to form a mash at the bottom
of the shaft. After ascending about 30 feet, I got
on to a landing, and the Sergeant followed. We
found the cave at this point to be about 20 feet wide,
and to go south-west and north-west. The former
appeared inaccessible; the latter we followed, and at
15 feet higher came on a level plateau. From this
is a passage 8 feet wide and 3 feet to 4 feet high,
roof cut in form of a depressed arch, out of rock.
We followed it for 40 feet, and came to a rough
masonry wall across the passage, with hole just large
enough to creep through. On the other side the
passage rose at an angle of 45°, the roof being at the
POOL OF SILOAM. 247
same angle and still cut in the same manner as
-before. The space between the roof and the bank is
about 2 feet. There are toe-holes cut in the hard
soil, so that, by pressing the back against the roof,
it is easy to ascend. Fifty feet up this found us at the
top, where was another rough masonry wall to block
up the passage; and on. getting through we found
ourselves in a vaulted chamber 9 feet wide, running
about south for 20 feet; arch of well-cut squared
stone, semicircular ; crown about 20 feet above us;
below us was a deep pit. We had now to go to back
for ropes; but, on getting near the shaft, found it
impossible to. get down with safety. Luckily the
Sergeant had a faja on, which, torn up in four pieces
just reached down to the ladder; and we hauled up
' the rope and took it to the vaulted chamber and
descended into the pit about 20 feet deep, and then
into a smaller one about 8 feet deeper, where we
found the appearance of a passage blocked up.
Coming back we explored another little passage with
no results. :
“The sides of the horizontal portion of the passage
are lined with piles of loose stones, apparently ready
to be thrown down the shaft; on these we found
three glass lamps of curious construction, at intervals,
as if to light up the passage to the wall or shaft;
~ also in the vaulted chamber we found a little pile of
charcoal as if for cooking, one of these lamps, a
cooking dish glazed inside, for heating food, and ‘a
jar for water. Evidently this had been used as a
refuge. Two other jars (perfect), of red pottery,
we found in the passage; and also overhanging the
248 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
shaft an iron ring, by which a rope might have been
attached for hauling up water. Having now explored
this passage, there only remained that going south-
west. To get to it, it was necessary to go down half
way to the shaft and then up again for about 15 feet.
I had a rope slung round me and started off; the use
of the rope was questionable, as it nearly pulled me
back in climbing up. On getting into the passage
we found the roof (of rock) had given way, and
nothing definite could be seen but pieces of dry walls
built up here and there. In coming down, part of a
dry wall toppled over into my lap as I was sitting on
the edge of the drop. Sergeant Birtles was 6 feet
lower down, and narrowly escaped them ; they were
each about a foot cube; three of them came on me,
but I managed to hitch them back into the passage.
We now heard, to our surprise, that the sun had set,
so getting together our delf, we made all haste down.
' On coming out, great was the commotion among the
people of Siloam, who wanted to have a share in the
treasure, and would not believe we had only got
empty jars. We got into town some time after dark.”
October 28th—* On going up the scaffold next day
“a stone over 2 feet long was found lying on, the
top landing ; it had fallen during the night. “The
men are now Working at the blocked-up passage
in the vaulted chamber. Two more jars have been
found.”
Rock-ceut passage above Virgin's Fount.—( Extract
from Letter, October Ind, 1868.)—*'This has already
been described in letter of November ist, 1867;
perhaps another brief description may help to establish
ROCK-CUT PASSAGE ABOVE VIRGIN’S FOUNT-
VIRGIN'S FOUNT. 251
it in the minds ofthese who are interested in’ the
subject. (Plans 18 and 19.) - ‘ ‘
“The hill, which is generally called Ophel, extends .
ina southerly direction from Mount Moriah, gradually
sloping down through a horizontal distance. of 2000
feet until it becomes lost at’ the’ pool of Siloam. Its
highest point, near the Triple Gate, is 300 feet
above its foot at the Siloam Pool; it is bounded on
the. east by the Kedron, and on the west and south
by the Tyropwon Valley, these two valleys meeting
at the pool. The descent into the valley of the
Kedron is very steep (about 30°), and the natural
surface of the rock is covered up by débris from 10
to 50 feet in height.
“ About the centre of the Ophel hill, to the east, in
the Kedron, is the Fountain of the Virgin, an inter-
mittent spring whose waters communicate with the
Siloam Pool by means of a rock-cut canal running in
aserpentine course through the hill. About three-
quarters of the way up the hill, due west from the
’ Virgin’s Fount, is a vault running north and south,
the crown of which-is 22 feet below the present
surface of the slope. This vault spans a chasm or
cutting in the rock, and the springing is from the
~zock; the chasm, when discovered, was over 40 feet
deep, and beyond that depth was filled up with débris ;
it, and the vault also, is 8 feet wide; the arch was
originally semicircular, but is now very much dis-
torted. The length of the arch is about 11 feet, but
4 feet farther to the south the vault is open, the roof
being self-supporting, carth and stones, and isin a
very dangerous condition. It appears that the
s 2
252 RECO VERY OF JERUSALEM.
southern wall, on which the voussoirs overlapped, has -
given way and fallen into the chasm, taking with it
a quantity of rubbish from several feet above the
crown of the arch at the south end: the voussoirs'
here project irregularly, and a slight fall of rubbish
from above them would probably displace one of
them, and thus cause a further fall, and so the arch
would collapse. Some time in June, or July, or
August, a fall of stones took place, when the work
was not going on.
“Tt.is not apparent at present in what manner
the vault was reached from the outside, but it
is likely that there was an entrance through the
southern wall which has been described as having
fallen.
“About 17 feet 9 inches below the crown of the
arch at the north side is the commencement, of a
_ sloping rock-cut passage leading north-east by east.
The earth has been cleared out, and we find the
passage to be 8 feet wide and from 10 to 12 feet
high. There are several rock-cut steps for the first
part of the descent, then a landing and. a drop of
10 feet (see p. 249). The horizontal length of this
passage is 39 feet, the fall is 37 feet. At the bottom
is a passage whose roof slopes about 5 feet in its
length of 68 feet. This passage is on plan nearly
semicircular, bending round from north-east by east
to south-south-west. ‘Then there is a sloping passage
for about.18 feet, the fall bemg at an angle of 45°,
and we arrive at the top of the shaft, 44 feet deep.
All these passages, canals, shafts, &c., are cut in the
solid rock, the nature of which is a hard silicious
VIRGINS FOUNT. 258
chalk called mezzeh, except near the top of the shaft,
! where the rock is soft and decayed.
“As yet the rubbish has only been cleared out of
the staircase passage, so that we know nothing about
the bottom of the passage leading to the shaft, but
probably it is 10 feet high.
“Tt was very desirable to know how far the chasm
under the vault.extends, and for what purpose it was
cut out, and also what there is to the south of the
vault, The vault, however, was in too dangerous a
condition to work under, so I arranged to fill up the
chasm with the débris from the staircase passage.
This we have already partially done. On the soil
reaching the top of the staircase landing, gallery
frames were fixed up through the length of the vault,
and battened together, and soil filled in at the side
and top, so that the men can now work to south or
sink a shaft without danger from the arch giving
way. I hope the arch will be filled up to the top
and quite secure in a week.
“We have now commenced the prolongation of the
before-mentioned gallery to the south: if we find
nothing in particular, I shall make steps up to the
surface, so that any visitors this year to Jerusalem
may go and see these passages without descending a
vertical shaft.
* “T should have mentioned that the voussoirs of the
arch are of melekeh, very much decayed, and capable
of crumbling on the slightest extra pressure.
_ “Tt isa curious circumstance that the landing-at the
top of the staircase is unconnected with any doorway .
or other means of exit, so that it suggests itself
254 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
whether there has been a wooden bridge across’ oan
vault from the southern to the northern side, as it
appears as if this chasm is of great depth, and any”
very temporary means of getting across would have
been disagreeable with such a drop down below.
“ Should we find that our rock-cut canal below Bir
Eydb is unconnected. with that well, we may hope
that, it extends from and forms part of this system
~of, ‘passages at the Virgin’s Fount. It will be
‘observed: on the plan (No, 19) that the vault comes
quite to.the south-east of the canal from: Virgin’s
Fount to Siloam, and. may, therefore, very well be
connected with other passages.
” «The: work of excavation here has been Site on at
‘intervals. -In May, under Dr. Chaplin’s superintend- :
ence, the rock was bared for. 30 feet on the surface
down towards the Kedron, and ‘the rubbish in the
passages.was moved from side-to side in. search of
other, branches. .The gallery along the surface of the
rock -had eventually to be abandoned: on account-of
the treacherous nature of the soil. The work was
resumed about a fortnight ago.
“A shaft was sunk at 40 feet tosouth of vault, and
. at the same time the space under the vault was filled
‘up by the earth from the rock-cut passages, On
gettitig up to the level-of the entrance down by the’
staircase, a gallery was laid on the top of the soil ané
then laid over with earth until it was filled: in right.
under the arch. This was very dangerous work, as
the arch appears ready to fall at each concussion .of
the falling earth. The gallery was then driven to
south, when it was found we were in a rock-cut
Dr. BARCLAY'S ACCOUNT.» 255
passage without 4 roof, the original entrance to the
vault; after ascending rough steps we cut in upon
the shaft we had sunk south of the vault, joined
them, and then filled up the shaft, which was over
the vault, Having “now the arch made secure, we
commenced a shaft directly underneath it to examine
the rock-cut shaft, but the made earth was allowed to
fall in, and a slip took place throughout the whole.of
the gallery, so much so that the work had eventually.
to be abandoned.
““ A very great number of visitors went down to see
these rock-cut passages- ; ae 2
“T cannot take leave of the Virgin’s Fount without’
calling attention to a mistake in the standard work
on Jerusalem, which ‘thas led to theories upon the
position of the Temple, &c. °
“ There are threo ‘parallel paragraphs in the ‘ City,
of the Great King, bearing on the Virgin’s Fountain,
at pages 309, 518, and 523.
“ Page 309, Dr. Barclay states:—‘ In exploring the
subterranean channel conveying the water from the
. Virgin’s Fount to Siloam, I discovered a similar
“channel entering from the north a few yards from its
- commencement, and on tracing it up near the
Mugrabin Gate, where it became so choked,’ &e.
Again he states, with reference to the same channel,
page 518:—‘On closely examining a passage
‘turning north, at-a distance of 49 feet from the
_apper extremity, it was found to be the termination
of the channel leading across Ophel from Mount Sion, °
and ‘explored as far as a point near the present
Mugrabin Gate. -
256 "RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
“Tn both these instances he states that the passage
was traced from the Virgin’s Fount to Mugrabin
Gate. .
“Now turn to page 523, and read how he came
to this conclusion : ‘I then observed a large opening
entering the rock-hewn channel, just below the pool,
which, though. once supplying a tributary quite
copious—if we may judge from its size—is now dry.
Being found too much choked with tessera: and rubbish
to be penetrated far, I carefully noted its position and
bearing, and on searching for it above, soon identified
it on the eaterior, where it assumed an upward direction
toward the Temple, and entering through a breach,
traversed it for nearly a thousand feet.”
“From this it appears that finding a subterrancan
passage branching off from the main aqueduct about
40 feet below the surface of the rock, and not being
able to get into it, he went on the hill of Ophel
‘outside and identified as one and the same passage the
main drain of the town, which is built of masonry,
and generally only a few feet below the surface of
the made earth.
“ This aqueduct then, the mouth of which Dr. Bar-
clay discovered was filled with the deposit of years,
was opened up by our working party, and found not
to be a tributary to the fountain, but a conduit for
water from the Virgin’s Fount to the shaft, which
apparently was the ancient draw-well of Ophel.”
December 18th, 1869.— The Great Rock-cut Aqueduct
in the Kedron Valley.—“ A description of this was
given at the public meeting held at’ Willis’s Rooms,
June 11, 1868, An extract from it is given below :-—
JERUSALEM.
REMARKABLE Rock-Cut TomB. ON WesT SIDE.
OF THE KEDRON. ABOUT & MILE BeLow
Bir Evus. .-
\
—
\ |
wh
NW INT
\
= 2 5
a i " =
J UTI _ Ms FH noOhO™hWoO.U OOOO M_OM_
! Section on A.B
Seale 3729-26-66 Ft to an Inch
KEDRON AQUEDUCT. "O57
“6 Rock-cut Aqueduct.—Down the valley of the
Kedron, and south of Siloam, there is the Well of
Job, or Joab, about which ‘there are several curious
traditions which connect it in many ways with the
ancient Temple. It has been examined, but fo my
mind there is yet a mystery concealed there. It is a
well 100 feet deep, without appearance of connection,
with any surface drains, and yet after heavy rains it..
fills up.and overflows in a voluminous stream. ae
_“*South of this well, about. 500 yards, there
is a place called by the Arabs, “The Well’ of
the Steps,” about which they had a tradition that
" there were steps leading up to the Well of Joab. I
had the ground opened, and at 12 feet below the
surface came upon a large stone which suddenly *
rolled away, revealing a staircase cut in the solid’
rock leading to a -rock-cut chamber and aqueduct,
running north and south. It was filled up with silt
or fine clay. We cleared it out to the north for
about 100 feet, and found it to be a great aqueduct
6 feet high, and from 3 feet 6 inches to 4 feet broad.
When the winter rains came on, a stream burst -
through the silt, and, completely filling the passage,
found its way up the steps and rolled down the
valley in an abundant stream, joining that from the
Well of Joab. In April the stream abated, and in
May we were able to commence again; and, working
day and night, we may expect to reach the city in
six months, We are working with English barrows
in this aqueduct, much to the delight of the Arab
workmen, who take a childish pleasure in using these
new toys. We clean outat present about 15 cubic yards
258 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
in twenty-four hours. Looking at this aqueduct from a,
sanitary point of view, we might suppose it built for
carrying off the- sewage of the city, and, from a
military point of view, for carrying secretly off any
superabundant water to the nearest crevice in the
rocks; possibly it may have. been used for both
purposes. Looking into the Bible history, we find
in the Second Book of Chronicles that Hezekiah
_ stopped the brook that ran through the midst of the
land, saying, “ Why should the King of Assyria come
and find much water?’ Again, we find from the
other account that the refuse from the burnt-offerings:
was carried down to the Kedron by a subterranean
channel; and, as water would be wanted to run it
down, it may be supposed that the aqueduct in
question might have been used for some such purpose.
At any rate, it is highly important that we should
discover for what purpose; and we have the chance:
of its being a clue to the Altar of the Temple, and—
which is of more practical value to the inhabitants of
Jerusalem—to the hidden springs of Hezekiah,
which, if found, might again supply the city with
living water.’ ” :
A further account is given in Letter XXV.,
January Ist, 1869.
Rock-cut passage at ’Ain el Luz’h.—“The passage
was followed up until 170 feet from Bir Eytib, whe
another staircase was found, the steps of which are in
very good preservation: the passage was then con-
tinued .to north, for upwards of 100 feet, until 12th
December, 1868, when a heavy downpour of rain
stopped the work, Bir Eyib overflowed, and the
KEDRON AQUEDUCT. 259
rock-cut passage was filled up with a stream of water,
* which found vent by the two lower staircases.
“The rainfall in December of 1868 was much
greater than usual; up to 15th of the month 8-703
inches had fallen, and it. is interesting to find that
the overflowing of Bir Eytb is due, not so much to a
steady long continuous rain, as to a sudden heavy
fall.
“Tt is now nearly certain that the rock-cut passage
does not communicate with Bir Eyib, as we are only
10 feet to south of it, and at least 70 feet to west.
Since that time the work has not been resumed until
within the last few days, when I recommenced in
order to obtain a correct idea of the probable expen-
diture that would be incurred in continuing the
work. ‘
“Tt took a few days to get quit of the mud which
lay in the passage; for, all through the summer
there has been a little water trickling into the
tunnel: on going on to north we had not cleared
away 3 feet before a large grotto was discovered, out
of which the aqueduct opened.
“ Apparently this grotto was originally natural, but
afterwards cut out so as to form a receiving tank.
It is 35 feet from east to west, and 20 fect from north
to south, nearly oval on plan; it is about 45 feet
ss height, the roof being formed by the sides
gradually approaching cach other. At the highest
point there appears to be a shaft upwards, about
2 feet square, covered by a white stone. The bottom
of the passage by which we entered is about 9 (or
more) feet above the bottom of the cistern, so that
260 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
there would always be a depth ‘of 9 fect of water
retained in it. Atthe northern end are two aqueducts
running into the cistern : the upper and eastern one
has its bottom 12 feet above the bottom of the outlet
aqueduct ; below it (the upper) by 9 feet and 6 feet
to the west, is the lower aqueduct, which, after a few
feet, runs in under the upper one; they both come
from the same point (about 80 feet north-north-cast
of the cistern), where they are in one, forming a
passage 15 feet high, and nearly 6 feet wide. This
point is 90 feet due west of Eytb.
“The way in which these two aqueducts run together
is very curious ; at the point where it is one passage,
there is a little staircase cut in the rock going up
about 9 feet on to alanding where the upper aqueduct
begins; this is 3 feet 10 inches wide, and 5 feet
9 inches high; it is very well cut, the roof is curved a
little, and it runs nearly straight to the cistern,
falling about 2 (?) feet in its length; about midway
it is blocked up by a masonry wall 3 feet thick, and
composed of cut stones set in a hard black mortar,
apparently mixed with oil. The lower aqueduct
starts from the same level as the bottom of the high
passage. It is only about 34 feet high (apparently),
and the top is about 6 feet below the bottom of upper
-aqueduct; for some distance it runs immediately
under the upper one, and then, with some winding,
comes out to its west by 6 feet: just before it enters
the cistern, it opens into a natural cleft in the rock,
which appears to be part of the original cavern.
This cleft is nearly perpendicular, and is about 4 feet
Avide, and over 15 feet high. Corporal MacKenzie
KEDRON AQUEDUCT. 261
went. up it 48 feet to north-west; it then gets too
narrow to be followed up.
“The rock throughout is a hard mezzeh, and the
passages appear to have been cut out with the chisel.
’ The surface of the rock appears to be not less than
70 feet above the aqueduct.
““ This tunnel, as we have now examined it, extends
from near Bir Eyiib to a point 1800 feet down the
Kedron Valley : it has been judiciously cut under one
side (the west side) of the valley, so that, though it is
from 70 to 90 feet under the surface of the rock, yet
the staircases being commenced to the east (nearer
the bottom. of the valley), have not to descend by
more than 40 to 50 feet. In the 1800 feet we have
cleared out, seven staircases have been exposed : they
are about 3 fect wide, and descend at about an angle
of 35°. The steps are about 1 foot in height, and the
tread is about 15 inches: in some cases the steps are
much worn and broken. At the bottom of some of
the staircases the aqueduct is deepened a little, so as to
form a shallow pool.
“Tn one place, between the third and fourth stair-
case, there is a branch tunnel leading across towards
the east side of the valley in a south-east direction :
this was only followed for 30 feet.
“Tt is apparent that this aqueduct was of consider-
able importance, for the labour in cutting it so far
below the surface must have been enormous. Thatit
was for water I’ think there can be no doubt, and
probably for pure water. ;
“The cistern we have just found is similar in its con-
struction to those found under Robinson’s Arch, and 7
262° ' RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM..
the aqueduct altogether has the same appearance as
the rock-cut aqueduct found there. The staircases, too,
may have originally been used for bringing up the
chippings,. but they appeared to be very much worn,
as if they had been in constant use.
“We have not as yet found there is any connection
with Bir Eyib, and if we do find any, it will probably
be @ communication’ by which the water from the
aqueduct flows into it, and cut at a later period;
neither is there any appearance of its being connected
with the Virgin’s Fount Aqueduct, for they differ in
height and width, the tunnel we have found being
nearly twice as wide and very much higher; also
the Virgin’s Fount Aqueduct winds very much more
than this one, and there are shafts instead of stair-
cases, 7
“It would be a most important point to establish the
direction from whence this great aqueduct comes; at
present we do not know whether it comes down the
Kedron Valley, the Tyropeeon, or by the valley from
the Jaffa Gate. Ps
“Tt is currently reported in the city that a Jewish
blacksmith descended Bir Eydb a few years ago, whe~
it was dry, and found a passage at bottom from ,
whence a strong wind was blowing. However this_
‘may be, it is evident that the man has some curious"
tradition about the place, as he has been trying to
buy the land over where we have lately found the
grotto, and the fellahin of Siloam say they refused
twelve napoleons for it. This man sent a messenger
a short time ago to ask if we were going on with the
clearing: out of the creat aqueduct. and to sav that-
KEDRON AQUEDUCT. 263°
. if so he intended to raise the money to continue. our
work. He probably had been reading the accounts of
Jelal and Mejir ed Din.”
December 21st, 1869.—* In continuing our work a
staircase at an angle of about 45°, and 90 feet on slope,
has been found. The top is walled up with masonry :
near the top another staircase leads off towards Bir
Eytb, branching into two. The rains have suddenly
set in, and if Bir Eyfb overflows, this work will have
to be stopped for the present.
“ N.B.—It has been stated that the bottom of the
cistern or. grotto is 9 feet below bottom of outflow
aqueduct, but 9 feet is the depth to which we have
sunk. The water in the cistern prevents our sinking
deeper, and the jumper cannot be driven on account of
the large stones met with.”
The great Rock-cut Aqueduct south of Bir Hyah,—
“ Account of this was given up to December 21st, 1869,
when some rock-cut staircases were found 86 feet
oor of the cistern or grotto.
# A shaft was now sunk at 75 feet north of the pool
«t Bir Eyib, and at a depth of 22 feet came on head
of staircase. The soil sunk through was black earth
and stones, mixed with a great quantity of red pot-
sherds. The staircase was found to be closed at top
by a masonry wall, and on breaking through this, the
steps, after going 6 feet to west, branch off north and
south. That to the north has again a branch staircase
to east.
- “The northern staircase has sixty-seven steps. It
descends 39 feet vertical, in 56 feet horizontal, and
264 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
ends abruptly, having never been finished. At
16 feet 6 inches down this staircase the branch to easf
commences, and falls (with twenty-two steps) 19 feet
vertical in 27 fect horizontal ; it then turns to north,
and falls 5 fect 10 inches in 10 feet 6 inches, and ends
abruptly.
“The staircase. to south (with fifty-four steps) falls
41 feet 5 inches in 72 feet, and ends in the aqueduct,
where the upper and lower join together, at about
86 feet north of the grotto. These staircases were
only partially filled up with mud and broken jars and
pottery. :
“There only now remained the continuation of lower
aqueduct to north to examine, This’was continued
for 148 feet, where it was also found to end abruptly,
rock on all sides. It is generally about 3 feet
7 inches wide and 6 feet high. It appears, then, that
this great work has never been completed. It is to
be presumed that the great volume of water which
now issues from the aqueduct in the spring, enters
through the rifts in the rocky sides of the grotto.
The reasons for the wall stopping up the upper
aqueduct having been built are not apparent. This
aqueduct, leading into the grotto, is 86 feet long;
that is, 44 feet from grotto to first wall, 4 feet thick-
ness of wall, 32 feet to second wall, 3 fect thickness of
wall, and 8 feet to small steps.
“In the first wall at bottom a hole or duct was left
6% inches by 4 inches, and on the northern side a
stone plug to fit and 12 inches long was found in it.”
Letter of August, 186'7.— Chasm in rock.—* This was
CHASM AT LIFTA. 265
the continuation of an excavation commenced by
Captain Wilson, R.E., and followed up by Mr. Schick.
It is a natural perpendicular cleft in the rock, and was
filled with red earth, stones, and pottery. After
arriving at a depth of 135 feet a storm partially filled
the cleft with water, the clay swelling smashed in the
shoring, and the work was rendered too dangerous to
continue during the wet weather.
“There are several traditions with regard to this
shaft. It is supposed by some to be the site of a
sealed fountain. I consider the restilts that are likely
‘to accrue are too problematical to allow of my con-
' tinuing this work at present, while money can be spent
more profitably elsewhere.”
Letter of December, 1867.—* About a mile south of
the village of Lifta, on the crest of a hill, is a chasm
in the rocks, about which there are many traditions,
and which we failed to explore in the spring. We
went there last Monday, provided with three ladders,
reaching together 120 feet, and a dockyard rope
16% feet long. We had three men to assist in lower-
ing us on the rope. The entrance from the top just
allows of a man squeezing through, but as you descend
the chasm opens out until at 125 feet it is about
15 feet by 30 thches. At this point is a ledge, and
we rested there while we lowered the ladders another
30 feet, to enable us to descend to the bottom, which
is at the. great depth of 155 feet from the surface.
The chasm is exactly perpendicular, and the bottom is
‘horizontal. Water was dripping quickly from the
rocks, but ran out of sight at once. On the floor was
266 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
a rough stone pillar, and near it the skeleton of an
infant; close to the pillar is a cleft in the rock, very
narrow, into which the water was running. I got
down into this, but it is a crevice which gets narrower
and narrower, and there being no hold, I slipped
down tntil my head was about 4 feet below the
surface. -Here I stuck, every movement jamming me
tighter down the cleft. Ten minutes of desperate
DORIC CAPITAL, SILOAM,
struggling, and the help of a friendly grip, brought
me to the surface again, minus a considerable portion
of my skin and clothing. On ascending, we had some
little excitement—at one time the grass rope-ladder
caught fire; at another, the men suddenly let me
down nearly 3 feet, the jerk nearly wrenching the
rope out of their hands.
“T cannot help thinking that this cleft is partially
artificial. I have not yet ascertained its level with
reference to Jerusalem, but there is the possibility of
its being in connection with the cleft where we were
CHASM AT LIFTA. 267
excavating near the Russian buildings, which some
suppose to be the shaft of an aqueduct by which the
town used to be supplied with water.
“Some other clefts in the rock to the north of
Jerusalem have been found, and it appears probable
that they are natural.”
The capital on the opposite page appears to have
formed part of the building's about the pool of Siloam.
It was pointed out to me by Professor, Donaldson, and
was secured for the Palestine Exploration Fund.
Nore.—The conclusions at which I have arrived as to the topo-
graphy of the Holy City, especially with reference to the site and
identity of Zion and Acra, are given in detail in a paper entitled
“he Parallel Holiness of Mounts Zion and Moriah,” which was
firat published in the “ Atheneum,” and afterwards reprinted in
the Quarterly Statement No, III. of the Palestine Exploration
Fund.
268 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
- CHAPTER X.
“THE HOLY CITy.
Our excavations in the city have established the
certainty of a valley running down from the citadel
to the Sanctuary. It appears to commence a few
yards to the north of the citadel; it runs through the
pool of the Bath and the Muristan, and eventually
into the Tyropmon, near. Wilson’s Arch,
On the southern side of this valley rock was seen
_ in the lower chamber of a house in Harat ash Sharaf,
2450 feet, where there are some rock-cut chambers,
and a tradition of a passage passing under the
Tyropoeeon to the Sanctuary: it overlooks the
Wailing Place. Rock was found at the so-called
Gennath Gate 2449 feet; it was also seen under
the house of the Incumbent of the English church;
2510 feet, where it was traced by Captain Wilson
for about 300 feet east and west. :
On the northern side of the valley it was found
along the northern end of the Muristan 2430 feet at
east to 2450 feet at west. It is seen in the Church of
, the - Holy Sepulchre 2477 feet, and *was found by
* Captain Wilson in the Russian property marked 75
on Ordnance map, 2460 feet. It is also to be seen
" -MURISTAN. 269
on the surface at the top of the street at Takeych’
2474 feet, and also in several places at Takeyeh, the
present palace of the Pacha. It was found in the
street al Wad, in front of the Austrian Hospice.
In the valley itself rock was not found. On the
north side of David Street, immediately in front of
David’s Tower, there was no rock at 2510 feet; in
the pool of the Bath there is only the appearance of
rock at the northern-west angle, and its depth is
about 2480 feet. In the Greek convent of St. John
the Baptist the floor of the old church is 25 feet
below line of Christian Street; there is a tank in this
‘church, and, roughly speaking, there is no rock here
at 2455 feet. In the southern part of the Muristan
no rock was found at 2460 feet; there is therefore no
’ doubt of the existence of a considerable valley sepa-
rating the Upper City of Joseplius from the Acra.
Details of the principal excavations in these parts
are here given.
MURISTAN,
This piece of ground, now given up for the most
part to the plough, was once the site of the hospital
of St. John and the convent of St. Mary the Greater.
Local tradition says that it was cursed by the Moslems
after their capture of the city, and this may account
“for its not having been built over.
The ruins of the chapel, &., at the north-east
angle have lately been given over by the Turkish
” authorities to. the Grand Master of the modern
representatives of the order of St. John, under whose
happy auspices, and by aid of the Kaiserswerth
270 BECO VERY OF JERUSALEM.
deaconesses, so many ‘henohcial institutions bave
been established in Turkey—hospitals, schools,. &c.
The arable land is in the possession of the. Greek
Patriarch. On the west side it is ‘on a level with |
Christian Street, about 2500 feet : it slopes greatly to
the east, when it is raised about 20 feet above the
Street of the Bazaar.
The first excavation was made to the west of the
old arch discovered by Mr. Williams (“ Holy City,”
p- 56, vol. ii.j, alongside the more modern arch,
but we soon came to rough masonry, and a second
excavation was commenced still farther to the west,
and quite clear, as we thought, of the vaults. of the |
Bazaar below; but there happened to be an iuner
chamber just under us, and alongside of this we sank
one shaft, and it was only discovered when, on ”
breaking through the wall, Sergeant Birtles found
himself in a blacksmith’s smithy, and recognised the
workman as a man from whom he had been buying
some tools shortly before. The man was transfixed
with terror at the apparition of the Sergeant bursting
through the wall of his subterranean workshop, and
thought he was a gin come to torment him for having
driven too hard a bargain, and fell on his knees
before him. The affair had such an effect upon the
blacksmith that he was only too glad that the story,
should not get about ; otherwise, I suppose, we shou
have been sued for heavy damages. This was one of
our first experiences in Jerusalem, and I took care
afterwards always to make a careful search, lest after
going down several feet through débris we might
come in through the roof of an inhabited dwelling.
MURISTAN. Q71
For example, in a garden to the west of the French
@onsulate, when I was asked to dig, I found that
stables at a lower level run in from the street for
several yards under the soil.
We could do nothing at the Muristan until the
crop was off the ground, and then we had some little
difficulty in getting permission to dig in the arable
land. The Patriarch had no objection if the Pacha
had none, the Pacha had none if the Patriarch did
not object ; but neither would give leave. Eventually
deputies were sent from each side, who met together,
and would céme to no decision, but after some days
they pronounced there could be no danger for our
work, but: still I could get no formal permission until
24th September, 1867; not until the Govermnent
inspector had paid me a visit, and had been
convinced of the advantage of our work at what I
considered a very expensive rate.
Our object was now to cut from north to south
across the vacant space in search of any signs of the
second wall, and accordingly shafts were sunk in
line and afterwards joined by trenches. The trench
from north to south was 350 feet long, 25 feet deep
on an average, and at about 200 feet distance from
the Bazaar. At two points to the southern end
shafts 40 feet deep were sunk without finding rock ;
‘32-branch trench running east up towards the arch of
Mr. Williams was also cut.
_—=e—general result was unsatisfactory. There
appears t6-have been a great number of vaults
corresponding to those seen now forming the Bazaar;
the floor line about 28 feet to 30 feet below the
272 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
surface of the ground, the ‘piers of well-dressed ;
ashlar about 12 to 14 feet apart; the arches very
rough, of rag work grouted in.. At the north-east
angle a shaft was sunk to a depth of a little over 70
feet, where rock was found at 2430. feet; at the
north-west angle a shaft was sunk, and at 28 feet
below the. surface a manhole was found leading into
large tanks, the bottom at the level of 2440 feet,
The sides are partially cut in the rock, the highest
point of which is 2450, falling to south and east.
The first tank entered lies north and south, and is 40
feet by 17 feet, semicircular arch, and in the north-
west angle a flight of twenty-five steps. To the
north-east lies another tank east and west, 68 feet by
17, and north again another tank not cleared out:
to the south of the first tank is a smaller one 16 feet
6 inches by 6 feet 6 inches, I sent to tell the Greek
Patriarch of our finding what I considered to be so
valuable a treasure; but he replied that he had quite
enough tanks, and only wanted me to get out of his
ground as soon as I could, as the rains were expected.
At the end of November the rains came down so
heavily that they commenced ploughing in the
Muristan in spite of our trenches, and we were
obliged to fill up in hot haste. 7
We cannot be certain, on account of our trench not
reaching the rock, that the second wall does not cross .
some part of the Muristan. It. does not, however,
appear to me to be probable, as the rock is proved to
fall to south. The most probable site, as far as I can
Judge, for the position of the Second Wall is along the
northern wall of the Muristan, and in this case the
EFFENDIS ‘AND WORKMEN. as 278
architect building for the Knight of ‘the Order of.
St. John may find that the old chapel partially rests
upon it.
Extract of re October 2, 1867,—“T- now send.
you a progress report of the works, which “are
getting on well. I only want gallery-frames to
make great’ way: opposition has ceased for a season,
and we are prosecuting the work with all despatch.
T have now about twenty men turning up the ground
at the Muristan, which has assumed the appearance -
of Chatham Lines after the commencement of the
second parallel.
“T have foynd a eat change in the Effendis
lately: they seem to be fast losing the apprehensions
with which they were at first possessed, when they
thought we were here for political reasons. They
begin to appreciate our efforts now they seg we do
nothing to harm their religion; and the strict dis-
cipline to which the workmen. are subject, and the
prompt: payments that are made, have invested our —
employment with a mysterious novelty.
. “ We are getting really good work out of the men;
they are gradually adopting our European notions,
and a,spirit of emulation has sprung up among them ;
instead of all wishing to be paid at the same rate,
they now work hard to get on to the first class of
pay. On Monday the measured work for the day
showed 6 cubic yards per man dug up, and thrown
out from an average depth of 3 feet 6 inches.
During the whole summer we have worked English
hours. Sergeant Birtles is. indefatigable in his
274 RECOVERY OF P SBRUSALEM.
exertions ; ha fae an amount of tact and discernment —
of character seldom to be. met with, and-I have
always the satisfaction of knowing that what I leave
to him will be done well. The work throughout has
been of a dangerous nature, and we have hardly had
an accident.”
Letter of February 11th, 1869.—The Gate Gennath
(so-called). —“ H.R. H. the Archduke of Modena,
through the Austrian Consul, Count Caboga, ex-
pressed a wish that we should re-examine the Gate
Gennath (so-called), and he gave a donation in
furtherance of that object.
» “On Thursday week a shaft was synk down along-
side the northern end of the gateway, and the arch,
which is very much battered and weather-worn,
where exposed, was found to be in very fair con-
dition iymediately below the surface of the road,
and to spring from an impost or capital 2 feet 1 inch
in height; below this the doorpost is composed of
three stones, giving together a height of 7 feet
4 inches. The lower stone of the doorpost rests on a
stone forming a sill, which projects into the road-
way and under the arch about 12 inches. No pave-
ment has been found.
“The arch of the gate is composed of eleven stones,
2 feet 3 inches long, and also 2 feet 3 inches wide at 4
the extrados. The keystone is 2 feet 6 inches in
length, the extra 3 inches appearing to project
beyond the archivolt (as shown in elevation); but of
this I cannot be quite certain, as a settlement in the
arch might have. produced this effect. ‘The arch is
GATE OF GENNATH (so called)
; : Scale dp.five thet te ene inch
i 2:3
or Capulal on Scale }. is
"Ona tot fo one Inch are —_—
2478's"
OLD ROADWAY
‘Hb eM OF
GENNATH GATE. 275
semicircular, the span being 10 feet 8 inches. The
springing of the arch is flush with the doorpost, the
abacus and mouldings projecting 3 inches. The
impost is in good preservation; a sketch of it is
inclosed.
“The height of gateway from sill to top of impost
is 9 feet 5 inches; and adding to it the risc of the
arch, we have a total height from sill to crown of
14 feet 9 inches.
“On getting down to the sill of the gateway a
gallery was driven to south, when it was found that
there was a second doorpost of more modern con-
‘struction within the first. On getting under the
centre of the arch some earth fell in, and, on its
being cleared away, it was found that we were under
a pointed arch. On examination I found that the
gate Gennath (so-called) is cased inside with door-
posts and a pointed arch of comparatively modern
construction, as shown on plan, . This inner doorway
is recessed 4 inches; a simple moulding (astragal)
runs down the jamb, projecting 4 inches, so as.to be
flush with the front of the outer gateway. I cannot
see if the moulding runs round the arch, as there is
.ome masonry-in the way. This inner pointed arch
forms part of the roof of’ a dyer’s shop; and I under-
stand that it was under the arch inside that the first -
excavation two years ago was made. Except at the
point where our shaft is sunk, there is masonry
encasing the old gateway, and one might dig about
it for a long time without getting upon the old
gateway, as we have had the luck to do.
“The sill of the gateway (Gennath) is about on a
276 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
Tevel with the Sk al Biyar, and also of the floors of
the two towers to west of the gate, described in
Lewin’s ‘ Siege of Jerusalem by Titus,’ p. 216.
“This is not the only instance where I have found
old work smothered in on all sides by more. modern
masonry ; and it has sometimes oceurred to me that
the pointed arches at the Makhama conceal more
ancient arches above—certainly in two places this
can be observed.
“From the battered condition of the exposed portion
of the gate Gennath, it is evident that a vast number
of years must have elapsed since ‘the two gateways
were closed up; and as the inner gate was probably
built to be used when the outer gate became decayed
or distasteful in its architecture, we may safely
assume that the gateway is of early construction,
especially as its style is Roman,
“The jambs of the gate do not rest on the rock, but
on made earth mixed with pottery, similar to what
we found at lowest point south-east angle of Haram
Area. The rock we found at a level of 2449 feet,
the old roadway going under the gate being 24744
feet, and the surface of ground at mouth of shaft
. 2486 feet. .
' “No walls of any kind. werg found near the rock,
- and no signs of any wall older than the Gennath
Gate within 13 feet to the east and 20 feet to the
south, If the first wall of the city was built up from
the rock and was not totally destroyed, it was not
within the above-mentioned distance of this gate.”
DAMASCUS GATE. OTT
DAMASCUS GATE.
Letter of August, 1867, 1, 2, and 3,—Excavation
at Damaseus Gate—1 and 2. Eastern side of road;
3. On western side. They will be spoken of as one
‘excavation. .
“Tt appears that in the twelfth century the present
Damascus Gate went by the name of St. Stephen’s,
and the only large buildings near it that are spoken
of were the Church of St. Etienne and the Asnerie,
or Donkey House, which was used by the knights in .
the execution of one of their threefold duties, viz.,
that of conducting pilgrims between Jerusalem and
the sea-coast. It is also supposed that there was at
one time near this gate a tower called ‘ Maiden’s
Tower’ (Josephus), which may have been made
use of as the Asneric, As it is probable that the
church was at some distance from the Gate, any
massive walls found near to the latter would appear
to -belong either to the ancient tower or to the
Asnerie, always supposing that the present Damascus
Gate stands on its former site. This Gate is at present
built of two very different styles of masonry, the
older portion of which is probably of the same age
as portions of the Sanctuary Wall.
“ An excavation was commenced near the mouth of
the cistern close to the wall at point A, east of road,
where a solid wall was discovered with a relieving
_ arch, blocked up with masonry. A passage was
jumped 5 feet into this wall, nearly as far as the
fanndationsa af the nresent wall. with no results To
278 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM:
the north of this was found a flight of steps, leading
- down to the tank. When these steps were used the
tank was probably an open pool or sea. North of
these steps was found a very ancient wall running
east and west. The stones are drafted and similar
to those at the wailing-place, but appear not to be
in situ, there being other stones in the wall of more
recent date. Nearly opposite the Gate the wall
suddenly stopped, and on digging round was found
to be 10 feet 6 inches in thickness, the north side
being of a different style of masonry to the south,
but of similar age. The foundations of this wall are
3 feet below the roadway at the Damascus Gate, and
it is improbable that the ground line there was ever
lower than it is at present. Although a great part
of this wall is above the roadway leading through
the Gate, an immense quantity of rubbish had to be
cleared away, because it has been the custom to
‘throw refuse from the city outside the Gate on either
side, and consequently it has accumulated until it has
formed two little hills; the great North Road to
Damascus running between them. I should place
the date of the building of this wall at an intermediate
interval between those of the two styles of masonry
at the Damascus Gate. Taking everything into
consideration, I consider this wall was built by the
Crusaders, and was destroyed when they were
compelled to leave the Holy City. A stone with
a Templar’s Cross on it was found at the foot of the
wall-among the rubbish; it had formed part of the
wall. On the west side of the road the core of the
wall was traced, but the hill of rubbish rose so
ACCIDENTS on THE WORKS. - 279°
suddenly, ind the nathoetes we so nervous about
the city wall, that I considered it prudent to close
the eravaton:
“The only accident which occurred on our works
happened here. I had just come up from Gaza and
was measuring this wall, there being to our east a
portion of the bank cut through over 20 feet in
height. We had but just come out, and the fellahin
were getting down to their work, when the bank
gave way and fell in upon the wall, but providentiall
no one had got down to the bottom, and only about
six men were at all covered in. Ose man, the lowest
down, we saw swallowed up, his ghastly face remain-
ing for a second or two in view before. another slip
covered him up; the others we got out easily, but this
man was only rescued after some digging, and when
out had to be carried by his brother and friends to
Bethlehem. For two weeks we paid his wages to his
brothers, and then I sent Sergeant Birtles to see how
the poor man fared, having told them the day before
to be on the look out for him; but on arrival at
Bethlehem Sergeant Birtles found no trace either of
the gnan or his brother, and we heard of them no
_more: either the man had died immediately, and his
brother, having drawn two weeks’ pay, had fled for
fear of the consequences, or else the man had been
less hurt than we supposed; in either case we were
deceived in the matter, and I made some new rules
about accidents, as we found that the men, finding we
had paid.for a sick man, were getting reckless. The
“next affair, however, taped them. At one of the shafts,
our first deep one, we had not sufficient rope ladders,
280 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM,
and tig order. was. that the men were fo be hauled up
by a strong rope, but this they found too much
trouble, and whenever they. thought nobody was on,
the look out they came up the shaft by pressing
fingers and toes against the side. They were told
. that if any accident occurred that they only would be
Tesponsible, and they would be turned off the works
‘if found out; but it was of no use, and at last one
man fell the whole depth of shaft from tep to bottom
and broke his back. It was necessary to appear cruel
in this case f6 saxe the others, and so the man’s friends
had to find a donkey and carry him off at their own
Expense, and theirWwerking pay was stopped. This
“effectually c them, and w no more trouble
on that score; had we taken any care of the sick
man, we should probably ‘have had many accidents of
the same kind.”
* Excavation at British Cemetery.—“ This was the con-
tinuation of the laying bare of some steps cut in the
solid rock, discovered when the cemetery was levelled.
The rock here appears to have formed part of the
ancient wall of Zion. These steps are considered
by some to be those of the prophet Nehemiah, but
the Rev. J. Barclay h'; shown me steps at Siloam
which answer more nearly to the Biblical description. .
“The excavation reached a depth of 18 feet, and on
arriving at the thirty-sixth step a landing was found,
and a gallery was driven along it for 17 feet without
any results. This landing was probably the foot of.
the reck scarp, which must have presented to the
enemy a perpendicular face of 29 feet m height.”
VALLEY STREET SHAT. 281
_. Letter of 20th «December, 1869.—* Commenced a
shaft 19th May, 1869, at the side of the street ‘The
Valley,’ close to the ‘Bath of the Sultan’ (See
Ordnance Survey Plan 3'55, 27): level at’ surface
2418 feet.
“ Passed through black soil mixed with large rough
stones: came on rock at 173 feet: it shelves down
rapidly to west-south-west at about 45° by steps 2 feet
6 inches high, Drove a gallery in to west for the
purpose of discovering the lowest parts of the valley :
found the soil very hard and mixed with large stones.
At 5 feet 6; inches broke into a passage or old sewer
running north and south, apparently down the Valley
Street which runs from the Damascus Gate to the
Hall of Justice. This passage is of rough stones:
it is 4 feet 9 inches high and 2 feet wide, and has
a slope to south of about one in six; the bottom
is the natural rock; the roof is formed of stones,
about 14 inches in breadth, laid across from wall to
wall. :
“ Continued gallery to west ; rock still falling. At
17 feet broke into a masonry shaft (plastered), about
4 fect square, leading down towards the rock. On
climbing up this shaft 7 feet adrain was found opening
into it from north to south; ¢. ared the shaft out and
descended : found the rock scarped to south and east
of shaft, and found rock bottom at 15 feet below our
gallery: the rock bottom is cut level: level of rock
2378 feet. -
“Yt is probable that this place was an old cistern,
the scarps facing to the north and west being the
sides. The soil passed through here was wet mud
U
282 RECO VERY OF JERUSALEM.
mixed with stones. Shaft now tamped up; and the
first passage found was examined to south.
“This passage runs down under the Valley Street.
At first ‘the soil was like silt or clay; but, after
50 feet or 60 feet, it became like sand left by a
running stream: it was quite filled up. After con-
tinuing the passage for 130 feet to south under the
Valley Street, it was tamped up.
“ Three shafts leading down into this passage were
passed ; the first at 16 feet south of one shaft: it is
circular, 2 feet in diameter, and is closed by a flat
stone at 8 feet 3 inches from top of passage: the
second at 62 feet from entrance, is 1 foot 8 inches
square, and covered by flat stone at 5 feet 3 inches
from roof of passage: the third at 76 feet, and con-
necting a drain from the east with the main drain.
It does not seem certain whether this passage had
originally been for water or for a sewer. It does not
appear to have been used for many years.
“ Although we did not find the natural course of this
valley, yet Iam inclined to think that the passage
we first found runs nearly along it, and the Valley
Street defines it. The scarped rock we found may
have been for other purposes, but I think it probably
is the inside of a cistern cut in the rock. It was a
peculiar arrangement to,‘have had a sewer running
in from both north and south if this had not been a
tank. The gallery to west was not continued on
account of our having reached nearly to the west
side of the street.
“ We hada difficulty at this shaft, which might have
resulted fatally. There was a squabble just then
FIGHT IN THE STREET. 983
between the Turkish soldiers and the military police
of the city, and our government zapti was standing
near the mouth of the shaft, when a great stout soldier
of a north Syrian tribe came rushing by in a very
excited state, and seeing our zapti rushed upon him
‘like a wild beast, and in doing so knocked Corporal
Ellis,, who was just descending, down the shaft. -
Corporal Ellis had the presence of mind to hook out
his arm in falling, which luckily stuck in the rope
ladder before he had fallen more than a foot or two,
and thus saved himself a severe tumble.
“The zapti and soldier then grappled together and
were left to fight it out, but at last the former became
completely exhausted, and the soldier proceeded to
take out his bayonet with the intention apparently of
pinning the zapti through the middle; but then
Sergeant Birtles rushed forward and secured the
weapon, and with the assistance of Corporal Ellis
fastened on the soldier hand and foot : in a few seconds
a great crowd had gathered round, and a patrol of
soldiers came by, who were appealed to, to take their
comrade in charge, but they did not like the look of
him and went off. Then the interpreter was sent
up-to the military Pacha to ask him to send a file of
the guard down to take the soldier away, and he was
marched off to the Serai, and there formally accused
our corporals of having set upon and beaten him.
Knowing, however, from experience what would occur
we sent round and obtained the evidence of all the
respectable persons who were about, to the trans-
action, and I then preferred a complaint against the
soldier for assaulting our zapti. The case was heard
u 2
284 RECOVERY. OF JERUSALEM. |
-at the Serai, when the officer commanding the troops
insisted that the soldier was only just out. of hospital
and incapable of committing an ‘assault...
“By good fortune there had been ‘some Franks
belonging to the Austrian Hospice looking on at the
time, and I sent word to the Serai that their evidence
would be brought forward if some measures were not
- taken to settle the matter, for. our zapti had* been
removed and-imprisoned under the pretence of his
having been the cause of the disturbance. By dint
of the exertions of the Dragoman of the Consulate,
M. Jirius Salimé (who always did exert himself
when matters were put in his hands), this affair was
put straight, but it-was some time before I could get
back our zapti on the works, and not until I expressed
my intention of leaving Jerusalem if he were punished
any further.”
_ It may be necessary to mention that when the
questions of the excavation were transferred from the
Pacha’s secretary’s department to that of the Mejelis,
I applied for a government zapti to be employed
on the works, in order to prevent any of the offenders
belonging to that court interfering, and thus upset
again their arrangements for obtaining bakshish
from us.
It was significant that, although the Pacha had
insisted at one time upon my having zaptis on all the
works, yet when I applied for one I could not get
him sent to us for several weeks.
OPHEL. 285
CHAPTER XI.
OPHEL.
Tue term Ophel is used by Dr. Robinson as the name °
for the southern end of the’ hill Moriah between
the Temple and Siloam, bounded on the east by the
Kedron, and on the west by the Tyropmon Valley ;
and in tlris sense it has been used when referred to in
our excavations—the wall of Ophel, the shafts on
Ophel, &e. The term, however, appears to have origi-
nally been used in a more restricted sense, and I have
to suggest that it was the name by which the Palace
of Solomon was known, a building which, if I am
right in my location of it, would, in the age of the
later kings of Judah, have commanded the Kedron
Valley by a wall of at least 150 feet in height,
"increased subsequently by King Herod to 200 feet by.
the building of the Royal Cloisters,
; King Solomon’s Palace was evidently at a lower
‘level than the Temple (Lewin, p. 263), and therefore
(2 Chron. xxvii. 3) King Jotham may have still built
much upon the wall. (2 Chron. xxxiii. 14) King
Manasseh “ compassed about Ophel, and raised it up
a very great height ;” that is, I suppose, he built the
286 ” RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
wall which we have exposed in our excavations, at
the present day over 70 feet in height, and, in con-
junction with which, there is a great tower of drafted
stones, perhaps that “ which lieth out.”
In ‘confirmation of this idea in 2 Chron. xxvii. 8,
the Targum has for Ophel “ the wall of the Interior
Palace.” ;
Mr. Williams, in summing up on the subject (page
365,) considers the south-east angle to have been a
fragment of “ the great outlying tower,” which, says
he, “must have occupied a space not far from the
original Ophel ;” and, page 368, suggests that there
may have been “ruins of the original Ophel or
interior palace.’ And from his other remarks on
the subject, I gather that he is not averse to the idea
that.this may have been Solomon’s Palace, which also
appears to have been the opinion of Dr. Robinson.
T cannot help feeling that had Mr. Williams, at the
time he wrote his book, known of the existence of the
wall which we have lately discovered, it would in a
great measure have brought him to view this southern
wall as the southern wall of Herod’s Temple, for his
more serious objection to this is the absence in his
time of this very wall (page 364). Itis very gratifying
to find how the reasonings of Messrs. Robinson and
Williams, and also in many cases of Mr. Fergusson,
dovetail in together- by the new light thrown upon
the Temple Area, and appear to bring out a plan of
the holy mount and of the city, differing in part from
the plan of each, but yet embracing and combining so
many of their ideas,
EXCAVATIONS ON OPHEL. 287
EXCAVATIONS.
After wo were driven away from the Sanctuary
wall in March, 1867, I sunk a shaft 37 feet to south
of south-east angle, and to this no objection could be
made, as it was just without the line given to me.
My object was to sink down and then drive in to the
Sanctuary wall and run along it. At that time our
powers of mining were quite unknown, and the work-
men, having been told by the local authorities they
would h&ve three months’ imprisonment if they
touched the Sanctuary wall, were not much looked
after. This very threat just suited my arrangements,
as it secured the silence of the men; and as it was
only considered that we could touch the wall by
working along it from the surface, we proceeded
merrily. My object was to get up to the wall, have
published the results, get copies sent to the Porte,
then to come nearer to the wall and sink a shaft, and
when ordered away to resist passively, asserting that
we had already been working alongside the wall from
underneath, that the matter was published, known to
the world and to the Porte, and that it was now an
established custom ; for custom is almost a law in this
part of Turkey. And on one or two occasions, when
waiting to get leave to do a difficult job, I did an
easier one first without leave, and when given the
nasal answer that it was contrary to custom, I showed
that it had been done already, and so laid that objection
aside. :
This method succeeded admirably ; our next shaft
288 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
was 20 feet from thé wall, then 10 feet, then 3 feet, ~
and finally ‘at the wall itself.
On sinking the first shaft at 37 feet south of south-
east angle, we by good Inck at once struck upon the
yemains of an ancient wall (the Ophel Wall), and
went down along its eastern side for 53 feet until we
struck the rock; we then ran horizontally alongside
the wall to north, until, when 15 feet from the Sanctuary
wall, we came across a wall running east and west,
., 4 feet thick, of hard mezzeh. The stones in this were
of large size and thorough-bond, and as the fellahin
were only commencing their mining lessons, Sergeant
Birtles had infinite difficulty in preventing an accident,
The large stones had to be dragged along the gallery
and broken up at the bottom of the shaft, where there
was room for the hammer to- be used; when we did
arrive at the Sanctuary wall it was found similar to
what is found on the surface at south-east angle, and
at the Wailing Place.
Our men, on finding themselves actually at the wall,
were profoundly impressed, several of them refused
to work with us any longer, some for fear of present
punishment, others from superstitious motives, atid
there were left with us a lot of reckless men; who
stuck to us throughout our labours, and were ready to
do anything they were bid above ground, provided
they were paid, for they reasoned among themselves
that if I could act in defiance of the Pacha’s orders,
and that openly, I must have some secret “ firmaun”’ °
from the Sultan, which was not generally. known;
and this was the key to our success with these people.
T was not at all sorry that this idea should gain
OPHEL WALL. 289
ground until our influence with them might be fully
established, and on that account-I was niost careful
never to run any risk of being stopped by “the
Pacha.” And when extreme measures were adopted,
and our men were threatened individually by
one of the detective police, I found a man who had
been threatened, and asked his permission to dig in
his ground, where there could be no objection. He
refused, telliny me the reason why. I then went to
the Pacha, and represented to him that the firmaun
recommended him to persuade the men to let me work
in their grounds; and he, finding there was no possible
objection, said he would send a man. I asked if the
detective might go; the Pacha acquiesced at once, and
Thad the satisfaction of making this man, before several
witnesses among our qien, say that the Pacha ordered
the fellah to allow us to work in his grounds. After
this our influence was re-established, and the detective,
when he again threatened the men, was only, laughed
at by them. It must be recollected that it is only the
outside villages that the Pacha would venture to give
an order. of that sort to; the townspeople are w# sturdy.
lut, who have their own ideas about Turkish rule. °°”
The Ophel Wall was found to be 14 feet 6 inches
thick at bottotn; it is perpendicular. At the south-
east angle it is found at 4 feet from the surface (level
of top 2352 feet): the top course is drafted, and is
3 feet 9 inches in height,and serves as a coping, as the
stones below only average 1 foot 9 inches in height.
It was examined down to a depth of 30 feet on the
‘western side close to the south-east angle; below this’
‘point the stones are not squared, and as this is the
290 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
case all along, it is apparent that this wall was not
built until long after the building of the Sanctuary
wall at south-east angle. This wall is in some parts
of melekeh, and in others of mezzeh, at bottom it
appears to be of the latter; the 4-feet wall met with
is of the same age apparently ; it was supposed that
there might have been a roadway between it and the
Sanctuary, but no signs of any gate was found in the
Ophel Wall. The wall abuts on to the Sanctuary
Wall exactly at the south-east angle; at the top it is
1 foot 6 inches in advance of it, but as it is per-
pendicular, and the other has a batter, it gradually
becomes flush with it and then behind it, until at
70 feet it is a couple of feet in rear. It is to be noted
that it is not built on the rock as in the Sanctuary
wall, but on the hard layer of clay resting on the.
rock ; this is proof that this wall is more modern than
that of the Sanctuary. When we were digging at
’ the south-east angle our gallery round the corner to
west was driven just under the Ophel wall for its
whole breadth, until we came upon the remains of
the gallery we had driven months before along the
western side.
Extracts from Letter, October Ind, 1868.—“ Upwards
of fifty shafts were sunk about Ophel in search of
the wall, &c. To describe the result of each shaft
would only be to confuse the account; it will suffice
to say that eight of these shafts were in connection
with the line of wall which is now found to extend
as far as 700 feet from the first tower in a south-
easterly direction along the eastern ridge of Ophel.
Qn
Te
OPHEL WALL. 291
po
“The wall commencing at south-east angle extends
in prolongation of east wall of Sanctuary for 76 feet,
where there is a tower with a front of 23 feet
9 inches, and projections of 8 feet and 6 feet, the wall
then turns with the ridge in a straight line and south-
west direction for 700 feet, where it ends abruptly.
About 200 feet south-west, and in the same line, some
massive walls have been uncovered; they have been
built over subsequently, and it would be very difficult
to determine their original objects. At this point there’
isa rocky knoll, and the earth is only about 12 feet
indepth. Looking at the remains froma professional
point-of view, I am inclined to think that what we
call the Ophel Wall was here terminated by a tower,
placed on the rocky knoll, and that from thence the
wall ran up towards the Dung Gate. (Plan 30.)
“We have found, however, no trace of the wall
with 200 feet of the rocky knoll, but it is exceedingly
unlikely that the wall would terminate in a hollow
with rising ground a few feet in front of it; as the
earth about here only covers the rock to a depth of
from 12 to 15. feet, it is possible that the wanting
portion of the wall may have been taken up and sold -
for building stone by the fellahin, who at the present
day frequently go down to that depth in search of
cut stone. Cut stone in Jerusalem is much in demand,
and on the grounds of the fellahin all traces of walls
at or near the surface are fast disappearing. The rock-
cut steps and caves which existed along the slopes of
Ophel are also fast becoming obliterated: the farmers
find that these are the places where they have least
trouble in blasting and quarrying the rock, and within
292 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
the last few years many old features on the southern
side of the old city have vanished ; thus, year by year
the old Jerusalem will become more difficult to be
understood.
“Tt appears likely that the Ophel Wall was built in
two or more steps, with a road at the bottom of each
wall, as we find that in the first wall the stone is
roughly dressed to a certain height above the rock,
and that to this height there is an outer wall of cut
stone about 20 feet to the front of it.
“Projecting beyond the line of the wall in the 700
feet three small towers are found ; they project about
6 feet beyond the wall, and have fronts of about 22
to 28 feet: the first is 310 feet from the bend, the
second 425, and the third at 575,
“A peculiarity about this wall is that for 20 feet on
an average above the rock it is of rough rubble of
moderate dimensions, then there is a plinth of well-
‘cut stones. The plinth sets in about 6 inches, and
on it is the first well-dressed course of the wall.
(Plan No. 21.)
“ As the plinth is in many places only a few feet
below the surface of the ground, the wall above it is
naturally only a few courses in height. In some cases
there is only one course, in some four or five. These
vary from 1 foot 9 inches to 2 feet 6 inches in height,
the length of the stones averaging 2 feet to 4 feet.
Many of the stones are polished, and that generally
at the angles of the towers, reminding one of the
‘polished corners of the Temple.’ It is, however,
to be remarked that in the south wall of Jerusalem~-
polished stones are to be met with in a few places, and
EXTRA TOWER. 298
indeed the Ophel wall in many respects bears a
striking resemblance to the present south wall of
Jerusalem,
“The stones in the south wall are probably not in
situ; nor, I think, are those of the Ophel wall; that
‘is to say, they appear to be stones used in the building
of a previous wall.
“ There is a point to which I would draw attention.
The plinth is about 20 feet above the rock, and the
inference to be drawn is that up to the plinth the
wall was covered from view. Now, the wall stands
on the edge of the east ridge of Ophel, the rock
sloping down steeply to the Kedron, so that in order
‘that these 20 feet of foundations may have been
covered, it is necessary that there should have been an
’ outer wall which would retain the earth up to the
height of the plinth. _
“The method of exposing these walls is very slow
and tedious. We can only get at them by mining;
and to examine a wall 50 feet high by mining it is
necessary to have several shafts and galleries. We
can at best get but an outline of what there is, leaving
the parts of more exceeding interest to be examined
minutely subsequently. We are still at work at these
Ophel. walls and towers.” (1868.)
EXTRA TOWER.
Letter of October 2nd, 1868.—“ At 312 feet from the
bend we have found at the plinth level the top of a tower
‘projecting 16 feet beyond tower. The stones are of a
large description, having a marginal draft or bevel ;
294 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
the face within the draft being rough hewn, similar
to some in the Haram Wall. The’stones of this extra
tower are from 2 to 3 feet in height, and 4 to 8 feet
long; the face of the tower is 26 feet. It has been
examined to a depth of 25 feet, that is, 5 feet below
the rock foundation of the Ophel Wall, and it is of-
one description throughout. ,
“ At the south-east angle of this eatra tower we
have found another wall going down towards the
Kedron ; it is19 feet long, and then takes a turn to
the south-west. We have not yet followed it farther.
Tt has been examined to a depth of nearly 40 feet.
The stones are well-dressed ashlar; in size about
1 foot 6 inches to 2 feet high, and 2 feet to 3 feet
long. An isometric projection of the extra tower
and the projecting wall is inclosed. It can be seen
that, if the débris were to be shovelled into the valley,
there would still be a scarped wall for Ophel of from:
40 to 60 feet in height, which is only dwarfed by the
stupendous height of the Haram Wall alongside,”
Letter of January 16th, 1869.—* This tower was
found to rest upon rock, which is so scarped as to
overhang 18 incheg at top. There isa perpendicular
scarp of 143 feet,‘and then a small gutter for water ;
below this the rock is cut away so as to forma water
channel, 10 feet high, and about 18 inches wide,
open at the top. This channel was found to be too
narrow to follow up. The rock scarp was traced to
north-north-east for about 25 feet, when the rock was
found to be wanting, a rough wall talting its place.
. “With regard to the eatra wall beyond the tower,
tt is found to be at present 66 feet in height and
SHAFTS BEFORE THIPLE GATE, 295
80 feet in length. At: its southern end it nae to
west towards the Ophel Wall, and becomes so much
decayed that further excavations about it were con-
sidered undesirable. It is partially plastered on the
outside, and so hkewise are the large bevelled stones
-wof the extra tower.
“Thave to suggest that this may be the remains
of ‘the tower which lieth out.’”
IN FRONT OF TRIPLE GATE,
Letter of February, 1869.—* Two shafts were sunk
in search of any traces of a wall running south from
- the west side of the Triple Gate. The upper shaft,
No 34, was commenced 132 feet south of the Triple
Gate, and to the west of a cistern ; rock was found at
22 feet, and a drain at same level was broken into, in
-which were found a great number of glass bottles and
earthenware lamps, which are supposed to date from ”
about the third century of our era. A gallery was
thes. driven along the surface of the rock for 25 feet
to the west, but no wallwas found. Objections were
“made to our continuation of the work to the west
under the adjoining property.
“To the east of No. 34 shaft is a cistern in which
there is a large cross (of St. John) moulded on the
plaster, and also some hieroglyphs, a sketch of which
was forwarded home in the spring. The cross is
placed in a Jittle aleove in the cistern, so that it would
‘only be seen by persons looking for such marks. This
cistern would appear, then, to have been plastered in
the times of the Crusaders or of thé early Christians}
296 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
if of the time of: the Crusaders, the cross would
probably be that of the Templars, who were quartered
just above. It may perhaps be attributed to the early
Christians, as we find the drain with the Early
Christian pottery so near to it,
“The second shaft, No. 42, was sunk at a distance
of 260 feet from the Triple Gate, and in the production
of a line perpendicular to the eastern jamb of the
centre arch. As soon as the rock was reached a gallery
was then driven to the west, and at 10 feet a drain
was broken through, the same as that met with in
shaft No. 34; also a branch drain coming from north-
west; this was followed up until.at 30 feet fromthe
shaft a massive stone wall was met with, running
apparently in the direction of the. eastern jamb of
centre arch, Triple Gate; the wall was then followed
31 feet to south, where it becomes lost, and 35 feet
to north, where it is succeeded by a wall of rubble
masonry, and there lies on it (not in situ) a small
well-cut bevelled stone about 2 feet by 3 feet 6 inches,’
The wall was then followed 10 feet farther to north,
but apparently it still continues of rubble masonry ;
just at the point where is the bevelled stone the -
mouth of a shaft was found leading down to a rock-
eut eavern, which will be described.
. “The wall is not yet examined thoroughly ; one
stone appears to be 15 feet dong and 3 feet high
(without a bevel); but there is a good deal of cement
on the stones and the joints may be concealed ; the
wall appears to consist of one course of larger stone’
Lresting on a wall of rubble, and the impression it
gave me at first was that it might be the wall of a
EXTENT OF OPHEL WALL. 297
ramp baling from the wall of Opbel 1; up to the Triple
Gate. I shall perhaps be able to judge better ina few
days.
“ At point marked on trace No. 40, a shaft was sunk
for the purpose of examining the rock under the
hollowed piece of ground south of the Double Gate;
«rock was found at 27 feet 6 inches, and to the east
some rock-cut cisterns and a passage with steps
leading down into them. A gallery was then driven
to north, and another cistern, about 17 feet square,
met with ; the gallery was continued along the rock
for 60 feet in search of steps leading up to Double
Gate, but without result; the rock was found to have
a scarp or. steep down to east along the line of the
gallery; I have since found the rock cropping up to
the present surface about 100 feet higher up the hill,
so that there is no chance of steps from’ the Double
Gate having extended so far down.
“Ts there any chance of the theatre of Hadrian
having been located near this spot? It is the only,
place that I have observed near the walls of Jerusalem
where the ground takes the form of a theatre.
“At No. 38 a shaft was sunk and rock found at
12 feet, but we just lighted upon a place where it
is scarped down towards the west for 12 feet to
14 feet; this scarp was traced for about 15 feet tos
north-west and south-east.
- *T have elsewhere suggested that the Ophef Wall
may have terminated on a rocky knoll about 200 feet
south of the point to whieh we have fraced-it, and-
that then it may have taken a turn up towards the”
ou west ‘angle of Haram Area; it would in such a
x
298 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
case run very close to this scarp at 38 (see Contour
Plan), which might have been cut to give additional
height to the wall; the plan gives the contours as
obtained from the several points of rock we have at
present met with.
“ At shaft No. 31 rock was found at 33 feet and a
drain cut in the rock, in which some lamps were,
lying. (For direction of drain, see General Plan.)
The rock is stepped out in a puzzling manner, and to
west the jambs of a gateway were found ; width from
post to post 12 feet.
“ At the point where the rocky knoll is we have
found cisterns and strong walls, but they are built
over with more modern masonry, and the whole is so
blended together that I can make nothing of it; the
more modern building has a floor paved with tesserae.
“ At each shaft sunk south of the Haram Area we
have found the remains of buildings, drains, scarped
and cut rock, and we may draw the inference that
this portion was once covered with houses. We have,
however, found no architectural remains in situ, and
nothing that would repay the expense of keeping the
ground open. As the work is generally 20 feet to
40 feet below the surface, it can only be got at by
driving galleries at such depths, and as in this
country the wooden frames quickly decay, it becomes
a matter of necessity to tamp up the galleries soon’
after we have opened ghem. I am now tamping up
all the galleries south of the Sanctuary, except two,
where the wall of Ophel can be seen by any travellers
who come here during the ensuing spring months.”
To face 29K
Ritke
Uff MOUNT MORIAH
Scale 6006
CAVERN ON OPHEL.
299
CAVERN SOUTH OF THE TRIPLE GATE,
Letter of February, 1869,—“ The cavern previously
mentioned as having been met with in gallery from
shaft No. 42, is cut out of the rock. The roof is flat;
it consists of two chambers; the northern appears to
have been about 12 feet square, but a portion is taken
up to east by a masonry wall; on the sides of. the
rock are small holes punched as though for some
instrument to rest. ;
“The southern chamber is irregular.in shape, and a
portion of it is divided off by stone columns cut from
the rock. Mangers or shallow vats exist round the
chamber ; in some cases the rock is cut in under, and
in other cases the troughs are cut out of steps project-
ing from the face of the rock. They are from 18 inches
to 20 inches wide, and where unbroken are 6 inches
deep; in one I found a plug-hole, which shows that
the vat was intended for the reception of some liquid.
In the roof, on the walls, and at intervals under the
troughs are eyes cut in the stone through which a
11 inch rope may be drawn. These eyes are formed
by cutting two grovesin the rock about 2 inches
apart, and then connecting them by a small hole,
half an inch in diameter, about 1 inch below the rock
surface.
“ Ag we find the cave at present, it has the appear-
ance of having been last used as a stable, and the floor
is about 2 feet below the level of the mangers, but .it
x 2
*
300 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
cannot originally have been cut for such a purpose,
as we find that the true floor of the cavern is 11 feet
below the troughs; so that it is apparent that the
original object was not connected with housing and.
feeding cattle.
“On entering a dyer’s shop in Jerusalem you will
find vats ranged.round the room, and staples let into
the wall from which lines are stretched for hanging
up the cloth to dry. The difference is that at the
present day the vats are circular, and those of the
cavern are long and narrow. I have to suggest that
this cavern may have been a fuller’s shop, where
clothes were cleaned or made white. Tradition
relates that St. James was cast over the outer wall ot
the Temple inclosure, and that ‘a fuller took, the
club with which he pressed the clothes, and: brought
“it down on the head of the Just One.’
_ The eyes made in the walls are similar to tose
cut in the piers of the substructions at south-éast
angle of Haram, which are sometimes called Solomons
Stables, described in Captain Wilson’s notes.
“ At the south-castern side of the cavern there is a
masonry wall, perhaps to support the rock roof, which
here appears to have cracked. Attempts were made
to go through this wall, but it was not considered
safe to continue the work,
“About half the earth in this cavern has been turned
over and a considerable amount of pottery has been
found, but all in fragments. Also~the lower part of
a copper candlestick,* which was found in two pieces
that had originally been soldered together. The
: * See below, Mr. Greville Chester’s Paper.
SCULPTURED SLAB. 301
upper part has been turned in a lathe, the lower part
has been probably pressed on a block.
“The rock above this cave is 44 feet thick, and in
the earth above is a drain containing glass and
pottery, supposed to be early Christian; it must
.then have been some time back when this cave was
used as a stable, and farther back still when it was
used for its original purpose.
“In the roof is a peculiar cutting, as though for
a picce of metal; and I cannot at present ascer-
tain whether such a hole is made in oil-pressing
rooms, &¢.; but I have observed a similar cutting in
’ the lintel. of a doorway in Harat ad Dawayeh, and
perhaps some person may be able to explain it; but
the dyers, fellahin, and others about Jerusalem say
that they do not know -its object.”
Seulptured Slab—In 1868, a fellah, when digging
on the south-east side of Cocnaculum, found in a hewn
cave a slab of sculptured marble, in size and appear-
ance very similar to those found built into the walls
of the mosques in the Noble Sanctuary (see Plates
18 and 14, Ordnance Survey Plans).
‘Te#has a cross upon it; and also the ornament
inside the wreath appears to be a cross coupled with
a fleur-de-lis, similar to one of the ornamented sides
of the great red marble font which is now to be seen
at Tekoa. (See Illustration.)
December 22nd, 1869.—“ 1. Commenced 3rd July,
1869. A-trench was dug in front of the core of an
old wall appearing above the surface of ground just
outside the city wall, north of Kalat al Jalud. Rock
302 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
was found at 4 feet, and between it and the core of
the wall is a space of about 2 feet, probably where
the cut stone rested. The rock was examined for a
distance of 20 feet, but no appearance of any old
foundations.
MONUMENTAL SLAB.
“2, Commenced same day, in Greek garden out-
side city wall to north-west, a little north of Latin
Patriarch’s Palace, where a core of a wall crops up
on surface ; rock was found at 4 fect, the core resting
on it with a space in front where the cut stone had
been; rock scarped in front; followed it down and
found it bevelled at bottom at 12 feet below surface :
no signs of any old foundations.”
Yo face p. 303
JERUSALEM AT THE TIME OF KING HEROD.
SKETCH SHEWING APPROXIMATELY THE LIE OF ROCK.
Scale 2ap80.
REFERENCE.
1. Banple of Solomon 9 Bion &Acra.
2 Palace of — do, 's Tanple 10. Lower Pool. of Gikum. wv-Any gdalon:
3. Added on by Hero. W. RerodsPaluce
5. Antonie [The Castle}
7 Kystue
& dgrippa’s Palace
THE HOLY CITY. 303
THE HOLY Cry.
I have great diffidence in presenting this sketch of
Jerusalem in the time of King Herod, because I have
not had time to go thoroughly into the subject since
I came to a conclusion as to the position of the
Temple.
There are a few remarks necessary for explanation
of the sketch. One, two, and three together form
the temple courts of Herod, but there is also four
“which joined to the Temple but a secular portion of it;
this, I suppose, was the armoury of King David, the
Baris of: late days, perhaps the palace appertaining
to the Temple of Nehemiah, the tower of Antonia,
. which wag joined to the castle of Antonia by cloisters.
it is the northern portion of the platform of the
Sanctuary, and as it is for the most part rock, with a
scarp to north, I imagine it to have formed the line
of defence; it is, perhaps, the palace. of King
Hezekiah mentioned by the Bordeaux Pilgrim. I
only put this forward, however, as an idea, for [ am
very unwilling to ‘attempt to’ elaborate any plan of
‘this position of the Temple until I see how the
-general idea is received by the learned public, for
perhaps now that all the details of our work are
accessible in one volume, some other views and
arguments may be started which will capsize the
theory I have at last formed; and I must acknow-
ledge that I only put forward a theory which appears
_ to me to be less open to objection than any other,
and I ‘should be very willing. to see a more perfect
“ation of the question. The principal difficulty I
_ 864-: : RECOVERY OF JEBUSALEM.
ree this is common to all theories—is; that in
the Book of Nehemiah the city. of David, the house of
David, and the sepulchre of David all appear to. be
on the south-eastern side of the hill of Ophel, near
the Virgin’s Fount or En Rogel, and yet such a
position for Zion appears at first sight to be out of
the question.
The. contour lines are not put in very accurately,
but I think they give a truthful idea of thé position’
of rock in the city.
Tt will be seen that Zion and Acra stand upon a
slope .2400 to 2450 feet, thiis a little below the level
of the Sacred Rock on Moriah. It appears, however,
probable that this portion may have been a rocky
knoll overlooking the Temple by 50 feet before it
was cut down by the Maccabees.
I cannot yet make up my mind as to whether the
Acra of Josephus was in his time used to represent
the crescent-shaped hill, including Zion, Moriahsand
Ophel, but there seems much in favour of the idea.
Josephus tells us that the third wall, after turning
at the north-east angle, was joined on to the old wall
which I suppose to be the prolongation to north of
-the porch of Solomon, This old wall may have
existed in early times, and certainly must have
existed in the time of Pompey, B.c. 65, for he was.
within the walls of the city when he attacked the
Temple on its northern side, which Josephus tells us
was protected by towers.
The- third. wall I think to have been on the site of
the present northern wall of the city, but we have
no very decisive evidence on the subject.
SARCOPHAGUS. 805
- With regard to the other walls, I follow very
Glosely the outlines given by Mr. Lewin, (‘The Siege
of Jerusalem”). In his disposition of the gates and
pools, however, I cannot quite agree with him, but at
the same time I am not yet ‘sufficiently convinced on
.the subject to illustrate my present ideas,
January 20th, 1870.—* A sarcophagus* was pre-
sented to the Palestine Exploration Fund on January
19th, 1870, by Mr. Hay, acting consul for the
United States, and Captain Walker; they found it
near the Convent of the Cross, in a rock-cut tomb.
“This tomb is situated on the east side of the valley
running up from the convent to the third tower on
the Jaffa road; it is cut out of a soft rock like the
melekeh. ;
“The entrance is 1 foot 9 inches wide, and opens
into a chamber 8 feet 4 inches square, and 8 feet
10 inches high; on the south side are three loculi
7 feet 6 inches long, 1 foot 4 inches wide, and 2 feet
10 inches high; on the east side are two Joculi (see
plan) of about the same dimensions. _ The roof is
flat; the sarcophagus is only 2 feet 6°9 inches long,
. 1 foot 0:4 inches broad, and 1 foot 3°5 inches high,
and appears to be less ancient than the tomb.
“Nothing else was found inside but a lamp of
earthenware.
“The ground belongs to the Lifta men, and the
tomb appears to have been opened for some years ;
bué the .sarcophagus was not removed, as “they
‘thought it to be Moslem. If was amusing to find
* Seo below, Mr. Greville Chester’s Paper.
306 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
that the fellah Sergeant Birtles took with him to
remove it was the owner of it and the soil, and had
often wished to make a little money. out of his
property. The sarcophagus is of soft stone, similar
in general appearance to those found in great
numbers about Jerusalem, but more skilfully cut
than any I have seen. A squeeze has been taken
of it. . :
“It is noticeable that these sarcophagi are seldom
found close to Jerusalem, but generally at a distance
of about a mile, We have found them on the east
side of Olivet, north of Russian Building, near Mar
" Elias, and now at the Convent of the Cross. They
have generally been ascribed to the third or fourth
century of.our era. M. de Sauley found one very
similar to east of Dead Sea; at Kerak, I think.”
Mr, Greville Chester (Paper on Pottery, &c.)
assigns these sarcophagi found near Jerusalem simply
to the Christian period. A sketch of the sarcophagus
whose history is given above will be found in hig
Notes.
Some holes were opened in the marly rock on the .
east side of Olivet. They are simply egg-shaped
_ holes, about 8 feet high and 5 feet in diameter: in.
them we found a variety of pottery of several shapes
(see chapter on Pottery). Two of the pots are
similar to some I have seen in use at Mogador, north-
west coast of Africa. ,
A few words are perhaps necessary on my
impression concerning the boundary line of Judah
and Benjamin, running through Jerusalem.
In June, 1869, I came to the conclusion that the
BOUNDARY: OF JUDAH. 307 |
valleys of Redon aid Hinnom were identical, aa
made the suggestion in an unpublished letter. In
February, 1870, M. Ganneau also came to the same
conclusion from finding a rock (Zehwélé) close to the
Virgin’s Fount, thus identifying them respectively
with the rock Zoheleth and the fountain En Rogel.
M. Ganneav’s letter of 22nd February, 1870, is given
at length in “ Quarterly,” No. V., P. E. Fund.
The question is of too great a length to go into
here, but I may give the direction I suppose the line
of boundary to have taken, viz., across from the rock
Zoheleth in Siloam to (En Rogel) the Virgin’s Fount, |
‘thence up the (Valley of Hinnom) Kedron, until
nearly opposite the south-east angle of the Noble
Sanctuary, where it crossed over the hill of Moriah at
the southern side of the Temple, thence up the
Tyropeon Valley to the Jaffa Gate, and so on to
(Niphtoah) Lifta,
The Arabic accounts speak of the Kedron as the
Wady Gehinnom, and the prophet Jeremiah (xix. 11)
says: “Go forth into the valley of the Son of
Hinnom, which is by the entry of the East Gate ;”
which does not apply to the modern valley of
Hinnom.
The head of this valley of Hinnom or Kedron
commences up the Jaffa road, a mile and a half
north-west of Jerusalem, and runs along the northern
side by the Tombs of the Kings.
Mr. Lightfoot, quoting from the Talmud, tells us:
“ For most part of the courts was in the portion of
Judah, but the altar, porch, temple, and most holy place
were in the portion of Benjamin ;’ and further, that the
308 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
part which lay in the portion of Judah was made
hollow “ with arches upon arches underneath.”
This appears exactly to apply to the position I
have assigned to Herod’s and Solomon’s Temple
Inclosures, and to the boundary line between the
two tribes,
TEMPLE OF HEROD. 809
CHAPTER XI.
CONCLUSION.
Berore stating the impressions which the details of
' the excavations have made upon me, I think it right
briefly to relate what my views have been with
regard to the topography of the Holy City.
On landing in Palestine in 1867, I was impressed
with the work of Mr. Fergusson, “The Holy
Sepulchre ;” but after futther study, the historical
account of Mr. Williams, in “The Holy City,” and
the architectural reasoning of the Count de Vogiié, in
“Le Temple de Jérusalem,” appeared to me entirély
to refute the idea of the present Dome of the Rock
having been placed by Constantine over the supposed
‘site of the Holy Sepulchre.
T still, however, considered the Temple of Herod
to have been in a square of 600 feet at the south-west
angle of the present Sanctuary, and considered the
plan of Mr. Lewin, in “The Siege of Jerusalem,” to
give the nearest approach to an idea of how the
temples and walls once were placed. But each
result of our researches tended to prove that the
temple area of Herod was more than 600 feet square.
_ 810 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
In everything, except the Temple of Herod itself
and parts adjoining, I still think that Mr. Lewin’s
plan of the old walls is nearer correctness than any -
other ; but, with regard to the Temple of Herod, I
agree more with Robinson, Kraft, Barclay and Porter,
except that I do not think the Sacred Rock of the
Moslems to have been the site either of the altar or
of the Sanctum Sanctorum, but rather of the gate
Nitsots of the inner court opening into the northern
gate Tadi.
The change in my views, from supposing Herod's
Temple to have been on a square of 600 feet to that
of 900, and thus occupying the whole southern portion
of the prescnt Sanctuary, arose entirely from the
result of our excavations, for it appears. to me that, if
it were only 600 feet square, it would have had to be
in three or four places at once. For example, its
western wall must have been coincident with the
present west wall, because of Robinson’s Arch leading
over to the upper city, which appears undoubtedly to
be the bridge over which Titus parleyed with the
Jews after he had taken the Temple; its northern
wall must have been near the present northern edge
of the Dome of the Rock platform, for here only is
there a great valiey, as described in the attack on the
older Temple by Pompey. Its eastern wall mu.t have
coincided with the present east wall of the Sanctuary,
so as to have overlooked the Kedron ravine, and
because on that wall we find marks ascribed to times
earlier than Herod, and if this enormous wal’ had
only been the outer wall of the city, the Temple
cloisters could not have overlooked the Kedron:
SITE OF a TEMPLE. 3il
again, the southern Bis of the Temple must have
coincided with the present south wall of the Sanctuary,
because we find the wall of Ophel coming in at the
south-cast angle, and we find the south wall to have
been of one construction from the south-east angle to
the Double Gate.
With regard to the Antonia, I still feel in con-
siderable doubt whether it stood on the north-west
angle of the present Sanctuary or on the north-west
angle of the Dome of the Rock platform, and the only
solution I can see to the difficulties is by suppesing
that it did both: that the castle of the Antonia
stood at the north-west angle of the Sanctuary, and
that at the north-west angle of the platform was a
“fower. called Antonia, and joined to the castle .by
passages or cloisters.
As a proof of this, we have the account of Josephus
(Bel. vi. 3,7), where Titus, after he had possession of
the Antonia, erected banks against the onter court of
the Temple: one of which was “at that northern
edifice (2éépav) which was between the two gates.”
This evidently refers to some tower of the kind
suggested,
The account (Bel. v. 5, 8), would be incompre-
hensible without some explanation of this kind. We
are there told that Antonia is connected with the
Temple at the junction of the northern and western
cloisters by passages down to them both, and that the
south-east tower of the Antonia was built 70 cubits
high, s¢ as to overlook the Temple, and was evidently
not joined to the Temple; therefore the castle of
Antoni must have been only connected by cloisters,
312 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM, °
+
>
as shown in the plan @f Mr. Lewin. As @ farther
proof of this, we have (Bel. ii. 16, 6) an account of
the cloisters joining the Temple to Antonia being cut
off, by which Florus was unable to get into the
Antonia from them. Now if the Antonia had pro~
jected into the court of the Temple, as shown on the
plans of De Vogiié and Fergusson, it does not
‘appear that cutting off the cloister would have done
much harm; but if Antonia was separate from the
Temple by a ditch over which cloisters were built,
the eutting of them down would fulfil the require-
ments of the case,
THE VEMPLE OF SOLOMON.
The Noble Sanctuary of Jerusalem is a raised
plateau, measuring about 1500 feét from: north to
south, and about 900 feet from east to west, sustained
by a massive wall, rising on the exterior from 50 to
80 feet above the present level of the ygfound ; the
general level of this plateau is about 2420 feet, but
towards the east, at the Golden Gate, it is ot filled up
to this level by some 20 feet or so.
Almost in the centre of this plateau is an irregular
four-sided paved platform, rising some 16 feet above
the general level of the plateau; and above the centre
of this platform the Sacred Rock crops out, over which
is built the celebrated Dome of the Rock, generally
“ascribed to the Moslem chief Abd al Melek, byt
claimed by Mr. Fergusson as the church of Cor
' stantine, 7
: There is no question but that within the present
‘VARIOUS THEORIES. - 813
Noble Sanctuary the Temple of Herod once stood,
and that some part of the remaining wall is on the
site of, or actually is, a portion of the old wall of the
outer court; but, with regard to its position, there are.
“the most conflicting opinions.
Some authorities, as M. de Sauley, Sir Henry James,
the Count de Vogiié, Messrs, Menke, Sepp, and Kraft,
suppose the whole Sanctuary to have been occupied °
by the Temple courts, and that Antonia was joined
on at the north-west angle, or projected a isle into
the outer court.
Then Mr. Williams supposes the northern portion
of the Sanctuary, about 950 feet-square, to-have been
occupied by the Temple courts, while the remainder
was the work of Justinian, based upon the ruins of
Ophel.
"And Messrs. ‘Robinson, Kraft, Barclay, Kiepert,
and Porter, suppose the Temple courts to have oc-
cupied the southern portion of the Sanctuary on a
square ofalput’ 925 feet, or thereabout. ;
Agaiw, Messrs, Tobler, Rozen, &., suppose a Temple.
of about 600 feet a side, nearly coincident with the
present platform (where I suppose King Solomon’s ;
Temple to have been).
And Messrs. Fergusson, Thrupp, Lewin, &c., sup-
pose Herod’s Temple courts to have been about
600 feet a side, and situated at the south-west angle
of the Sanctuary ; but as to the position of Antonia
Al differ. i
Amid all these views, that of Dr. Robinson appears
to be most nearly correct, so far as Herod’s courts
are concerned, with the application to them of
Y
314 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
Mr. Lavine s plan of the Agitoniins changed i in pasion,
and somewhat modified in form.
It is necessary to state, before proceeding farther,
that the Holy City is built upon a. series of rocky
spurs close to the watershed or backbone of
Palestine; and it appears to be quite certain, from
the nature of the surrounding country, that in early
times the site of Jerusalem was a serieg of rocky
slopes, the ledges covered here and there. with a few
feet of red earth. When, therefore, we get dewn to
the surface of the rock at the present day (provided.
it has not been cut), we get down to that surface
which presented itself to view in olden times, before
the first inhabitants built their city.
Now this being the case, it is only necessary to
throw away all the débris forming the vast plateau of
the Sanctuary, and we get a view of the rock of
Moriah, as it would have appeared to the eyes of
King David ; although this is of course impracticable
on the ground itself, we have been able to do so on
paper, and on a model: for, having obtained the
height of the surface of rock in all the tanks of the
Sanctuary, where rock was to be found, and having
- obtained the height of the rock along the wall, we
have been able to produce. a very approximate
contoured plan of the rock over all this area ; and on
some part of this area the Temple of Solomon once
stood.
We find then that the ridge of the hill of Moriah
_ runs along from the north-west angle, nearly in a
straight line south-east by south, until it reaches the
Triple Gate in the south wall, and that it falls away
RIDGE OF MORIAH. 315
fron: this face very steeply, north-east and south-
west, so that a point of rock near north-east angle is
no less than 162 feet below the Sacred Rock ; a point
. of rock at the south-west angle is no less than 150
feet below the Sacred Rock ; and again, at south-east
angle, it is no less than 163 feet below this rock. I
have to submit, then, that ‘here the sides are as
much as one in two or three, where the ground slopes
very nearly in the same degree as does the rock of
Gibraltar to the west, it seems incredible that the
temple, a building which was so conspicuous, and
. which was to perform such an important part in the
. fortifications of the city, should have been placed
down in a hole, or even along the sides of the hill,
or anywhere except on the ridge, where there is just
enough room for it to have stood, for it is somewhat
flattened on the top.
It certainly may be said that the site was not
’ selected for a fortress, and that its position depended
on that of the threshing-floor of Araunah; but it
seems reasonable to suppose that Divine Providence
would have caused the threshing-floor to have been
placed in sucha position as would have been after-
- wards favourable to the dominance of the Temple :
and again, it is well known that threshing-floors in
Palestine are so placed on the ridges of hills or on
the highest points that, by exposure to every puff of
wind which may be straying about, the corn and chaff
may be separated ; for there being no machines, the
winnowing at the present day, as of old, is effected
by tossing up in the air the well-trodden corn and
chaff, when the latter is carried away. Dan. ii. 35 :
y 2
316 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
-. “And became like the chaff of the summer threshing-
floors; and the wind carried them away.”
Supposing the Temple, then, to have been built on
the ridge, we must give up all idea of its having
stood at the south-west or’north-cast angles, for
there are the beds of the Tyropaon and another
valley. It could not-have stood at the north-west
angle, because Josephus tells us that at the north of
the Temple was a valley which Pompey, in his attack
B.C. 65, was obliged to fill partially in (Bel. 1, 7, 3);
and the only valley which exists about there is that
which the northern end of the platform of the Dome
of the Rock overlooks. The position, therefore,
where the altar could have stood lies somewhere in
a line of about 300 feet, between the Sacred Rock
of the Moslems and a point 100 feet east of “ The
Cup.”
‘There are reasons for supposing that it stood some-
where on the northern portion of this line, for we
. know that the Temple of Herod stood on the site of
that of Solomon, and the Mishna also tells us that
the Temple, of Herod lay in the north-west angle of
its inclosure, and therefore, if the latter be a square
" of about 920 feet, forming the southern portion of the
Noble Sanctuary, then the Temple of Solomon would
fall somewhere very near the Sacred Rock.
The position which appears to me to fulfil most
nearly the several requirements is that by which the
Altar of Burnt-offering would have stood over tank
- No. 5 at cits western end—the Dome of the ii
{see page 207).
oc de, ‘ek — oe aad
DATE OF THE WALLS. 317
femned part of the Chel, through whisk the gate
Nitsots led under ground to the gate Tadi, over which, '
on the northern portion of the platform, were the
towers attacked by Pompey when he took the Temple,
and which afterwards became the citadel, until the
fortifications at this point were still further enlarged
and the castle of Antonia built.
The position, therefore, I suppose to have been
occupied by the courts of the Temple of Solomon is a
tectangle 900 feet odd from, east to west, and 600
foet from north to south, its southern end 300. feet
north of the south wall of the Noble Sanctuary.
This would suppose the wall at Wilson’s Arch and
the Wailing Place to be the work of Solomon, or of
the kings of Judah, and also the portion of the
Sanctuary on the eastern side and opposite.
It would perhaps have appeared more in keeping
with the account to suppose a square for Solomon’s
Temple; but there is this difficulty. -The present
east wall of the Sanctuary has Pheenician characters
on it, and has all the appearance of being a portion
of the oldest work, so that if it were not. Solomonic
it would have formed part of the old gl spoken of
hy Josephus, which I suppose to have been the work
of the kings of Judah. But Josephus tells us (Ant.
xv, 11.5) that the Porch of Solomon in the time of
Herod overlooked the Kedron, and therefore would
have to overlook this cast wall of the Sanctuary, if it
were not identical with it.
But a person standing to-day at. the south-east
“angle of the platform would have to be raised up
200 feet before he could see over the present east
318 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
wall into the Kedron; therefore it is apparent that, if
this east wall is as old as the time of King Herod,
then it must have formed the east wall of his temple
inclosure; and, if so, then it was the wall on which
the cloister called Solomon’s Porch rested, and is the
actual wall built by King Solomon himself. For this
we have a chain of evidence running throughout the
account of Josephus; and we have most clearly the
information that this porch, in the time of King Herod’
Agrippa (a.p. 63), rested on the wall of Solomon,
which was 600 feet long. (Ant. xx. 10. 7.) f
My impression is that this wall commences at 300
feet north of the south-east angle, and extends
up to the break in the east wall for 600 feet, and
that there the old wall of the kings of Judah com-
mences and runs up to the north-east angle,-and,
turning to west above the Birket Israil,tormed the
second wall up to the time of Herod, when the castle
of Antonia was built; and that it was within this
wall that the camp of Pompey was pitched when he
attacked the northern side of the Temple.
It is to be observed that at both the north-east and
south-east angle characters in paint have been found
at. the foot of the walls, which are pronounced by
savans to be Phoenician.
The evidence with regard to the temple inclosure
of Solomon having been 600 feet a side, and the
inclosure of Herod being enlarged, was originally
given here more fully, as I had never seen the subject
broached. previously; but just before sending this
to press, the supplement to No. 8, Vol. II., of the
a, ber er . +, 2 res aS ae . y
ines; glee ae at ms
SOLOMON'S PALACE. 319
my hands, and [ find it there brought out very
clearly, so that there is no occasion for me to do
more than allude to it. _
The next question which arises is as to the disposi-
tion of the portion of the Noble Sanctuary 900 feet
by 300 feet, lying between Solomon’s Temple Inclosure
and the south wall.
A square of 300 feet at the south-west angle
I suppose to have been built by King Herod, together
with the arch of Robinson and the passage to the
Xystus and the Upper City.
The remaining portion, 600 fect by 300 feet, ex-
tending from the Double or Huldah Gate to the
south-east angle, I suppose to have been the site of
SOLOMON’S PALACE.
It is very remarkable that there is a disposition
among many authorities, however much they may
differ in other respects, to place the palace somewhere
near this point.
Mr. Lewin, in his exhaustive argument, shows
that the palace evidently must have stood to the
south of and lower than the Temple; but placing
the Temple on his plan at the south-west angle, the
palace has to follow, and is outside the limit of the
Noble Sanctuary. Remove his temple to the position
T suppose it to have held, and the palace occupies the
south-east angle.
Mr. Williams also considers the palace to have
been very near this point; see supra, page 286
(Ophel). :
920 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
Dr. Robinson also appears to favour the same idea,
and alludes to the general name of “ Palatium sive
Templum Salomonis,” given to the Aksa by early
writers. :
It certainly does appeat that all tradition agrees in
placing the Palace of Solomon here; and we are
indebted to Mr. Fergusson for showing how carefully
we must distinguish between’ Templum Domini and
Templum Salomonis; but it is interesting to note: that
the inference he draws is that the one is the Church of
Our Lord, the other the Temple of Solomon, while it
appears to me that the real rendering should be the
Temple of the Lord (built by Solomon) and the
Palace of Solomon.
This difference is not a small matter; for if his
rendering should be right, then it would be evident ©
that the opinions of all travellers from A.. 333 till
the Middle Ages were in favour of the Holy Sepulehre
being on the Sacred Rock of the Moslems, and the
Temple of Solomon at the south-west angle, according
to his disposition.
It appears to me, however, that all early writers
support each other in placing the Holy Sepulchre °
where it is at present, making the site of the Temple
of Solomon identical with that of the Dome of the
Rock, and the Palace of Solomon with the portion of
, thd Noble Sanctuary reaching from the Aksa Mosque
‘te south-east angle.
Care must be taken to distinguish between Porticus
Salomonis and Palatium Salomonis ; the first, evidently
referring, to the Porch of Solomon on the east wall of
Herod’s Temple Inclosure, the other, to the portion
BORDEAUX PILGRIM. 821
of the inclosure where Solomon’s Palace once
stood,
From the anonymous description of the Holy
Places, published by Dr. Lisad Tobler, we extract the
following :—
~ “Ab hoe loco (the ome Sepulchre), Rapti
potest arcus bis mittere sagittam, in orientali parte
est Templum Domini a Salomone factum, in quo a
justo Simeone presentatus est Christus. In dextra
parte hujus templi Salomon templum suum zedificavit
et inter utrumque templum porticum speciosam
struxit ‘columnis narmoreis. In-sinistra parte est
probatica piscina.” °
This portion Mr. Fergusson appears to think may
have been written in the fourth century. The
account, however, closely resembles those of the time
of the Crusades, and it draws a distinction between
the Temple of the Lord built by Solomon, and
Solomon’s Temple or Palace. This distinction will
be marked throughout the following quotations, and
shows that the Templum Domini had no reference
whatever to the Church of Our- Lord, the Church ‘of .
* the Resurrection, or Holy Sepulchre.
The Bordeaux Pilgrim, about a.p. 333, speaks of
the site of the temple built by Solomon, but before
this he describes the south-east angle (Lewin, p. 490),
and says: “Ibi est angulus turris excelsissimae ubi ..
Dominus ascendit ;” and then further tells us : “ Item
ad caput anguli et sub pinnd turri8 ipsius sunt cubiewa
plurima ubi Solomon palatium habebat.” Here we
have the palace again placed at south-east angle, and
distinct from the temple built by Solomon.:
322 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
A.D. 700. Bishop Arculf evidently describes the
present Church of the Holy Sepulchre, but his
reference to the Temple is obscure.
A.D. 1102. Sxwulf describes the present Dome of the
Rock as the Temple of the Lord, and places the Temple
of Solomon to the south, near the south-east angle.
M. de Vogiié, in “ Les Kglises de la Terre Sainte,”
gives us two accounts; the first a.p. 1157, where
after speaking of Templum Domini, it relates, page
413, from an account of date 1157: “A parte
quoque meridiand est palatium Salomonis ;” the second,
“La Citez de Jherusalem,” (4.p. 1187), tells us the
same: “ Entre le mur de la cité et le mur des Portes
Oires si estoit les Temples, et si y avoit une grant
place qui plus estoit d’une traictie de lone et le giet
d'une pierre de 1é, ainz que on veigne au Temple.
‘Cele place si estoit pavée, dont on apeloit cele place
le Pavement. A mein destre, si come on issoit de
ces portes, estoit li Temples Salemon, 14 ot li Frere
du Temple manoient. A la droiture des Portes
Specieuses et des Portes Oires estoit li moustiers du
Temple Domini, et si estoit en haut, si que on i
montoit a degrez.”
William of Tyre also carefully distinguishes
between the Temple of the Lord and the Palace of
Solomon ; and Brocardus (4.p. 1283) tells us : “ Mons
Moriah in quo Templum Domini et Palatium Regis
zdificata erant.” i
A.D. 1163. Benjamin of Tudela (a Jew) tells us
that the Templum Domini (Dome of the Rock) is
the site of the Holy Temple, and that the hospital of
Solomon (the Aksa), occupied by the. Knichts
OTHER AUTHORITIES. 323
Templars, is the palace originally built by King
Solomon.
A.D. 1521. Mejir ed Din (xxiv.), describes the sub-
structions at south-east angle under the name of
Solomon’s Stable, and says : “It is probably Solomon’s
building.” He also tells us that “Remains of the
work of Solomon may still be seen on the inside of
the inclosure (the Golden Gate), the only remains
that are found within the Mcsjid.” He also supposes
that the stonework in the Double Passage may be
the remains of Solomon’s buildings.
We have also at the present day. the name of
~ “Solomon’s Stables” attached to the vaults at south-
east angle, and the Double Passage is still shown by
the Moslem guides as part of Solomon’s work.
It is also to be noted that the southern cloisters
of Herod’s Temple Inclosure were called the Royal
Jloisters. This name, I presume, was obtained from
their being built over the remains of the Royal Palace.
Herod’s ‘emple Inclosure appears then to have
consisted of the old inclosure of King Solomon’s
Temple, the old palace, and a piece built in at the
south-west angle to make the whole a square of
about 900 feet a-side. And, besides this, there was
the portion on which the towers protecting the side
of the Temple rested, called by Josephus the Exhedra,
and connected with the main castle of Autonia by a
double set of cloisters.
Tt has. already been shown (p. 311) that this
position exactly meets the requirements of the account
of of Josephus ; it now only remains to compare the
Fi Ae | Pe | Me ee Ce: hoy De eee ce Sree ee
324 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
The wall from Wilson’s Arch to the. Prophet's
: Gate is of one construction, and is built up from the
rock of smooth-faced drafted stones. The wall is
continued in the same straight line to the south-west
angle, and along that portion, and round to the
Double Gate, it is built up as far as the pavement
under Robinson’s Arch with rough-faced drafted
stones, and above that they closely resemble those at
the Wailing Place.
From the Double Gate to the south-east angle, and
about 105 feet round the corner to north, the stones
are built up smooth-faced from the rock ; and beyond
the point as far as we examined, they are built up
from the rock to the present surface with slightly
projecting faces (of 2 to 3 inches).
At the north-east angle the stones of the tower
have projecting faces up, to a certain level (see
p. 167), and after that they resemble those at, the
“Wailing Place; but in the wall south of the tower
the stones have projecting faces (of 12 to 24 inches),
from the rock up to the present surface, a height of
more than 125 feet. :
The inference I draw from these walls is that the __
. portion from Wilson’s Arch to the Prophet's Gate ie |
of the time of Solomon, being the west wall of his
temple inclosure, and that the portion-from the
Double Gate round by the south-east angle is,also
Solomonic, having formed the wall of his palace.
The wall at the north-east angle I suppose to have
been the work of the kings of Judah, the old wail to
which Josephus (#el. v. 4, 2) tells us the wall of
Agrippa was joined.
CONCLUSION. 325
It is to be remarked that, though. there are pro-
jecting faces to the stones both near the south-east.
and. north-west angles, yet they differ very much in
appearance, for the former only project 2 to 3 inches,
the latter from 12 to 24 inches: the fact of the north-
east angle tower being built up from the rock with
stones whose faces project also implies that it is a
later construction than that of the south-east angle,
where the stones are as well dressed at bottom as at
any other point.
With regard to the rough-faced stones at the
south-west angle, they differ entirely from any in the
‘east wall,.and I suppose them, for reasons already
given, to be Herodian:
Levels were taken all round the wall of the
Sanctuary, and the relative heights of the several
courses are given in the abstract which will be found
in the Appendix. .
In conclusion, I may observe that my endeavour
has been to give the details of the excavations only,
together with any new combination of old facts
which may have happened to strike me. I have
Avoided, as much as possible, repeating anything that
‘has appeared previously in the standard works on
Jerusalem, because the account here given cannot
pretend to do more than act as an Addendum to those
works ; my references have therefore generally been
‘made to them when I considered it necessary to
correct some error into which the writers have fallen
from their want of knowledge of facts, which the
excavations have. opened up; and, in consequence, a
casual reader may be led to think that I do not
326 BEOOL ERK OF JER USALEM:
thoroughly appreciate ent To put ins Sasa
however, beyond a doubt, I beg to express my
gratitude to those whose former labours in the same
field in history, architecture, topography, archeology,
criticism, and controversy have so ripened the several
questions as to render the excavations of some
service ; and not least to the lady by whose munificent
gift the Ordnance Survey under Captain Wilson was
enabled to be carried out, for without that survey
nothing satisfactory in excavating could have been
undertaken.
It may appear to some who have already formed
their ideas on the topography of the Holy City that
it was unnecessary for me to give more than the
details of our work. I have, however, given the few
opinions I possess for the information of those who
have not been yet convinced either way; and I may
conscientiously say that I have carried on the work
entirely without any strong bias towards any par-
ticular theory, for my opinions have changed when-
ever our researches, throwing new light upon the
several questions, have shown that I was in error,
and I have not hesitated to say so in my letters.
APPENDICES.
APPENDIX I,
Antusion has been made, p. 50, to the vizierial letter which pro-
fo
ploration of Jerusalem, Au cxamination of its terms will serve
to bring into yet stvonger light the difficulties interposed by the
Government, which cramped our operations at every turn.
ed to give us the necessary authority to earry out our ¢x-
Copy of Vinersal Letter received in February, 1867.
' Translation. | -j
“ JUXORLLENCY,
“Tho British Embassy has informed us that Licutenant
Charles Warren, an English Offiecr of Engineers (with a few
employés and workmen), has been appointed to make certain
scientific rescarches in Jerusalem and its neighbourhood, and
requests that the needful assistance may be given them; and that
as they will require, in order to vomplete their investigation, only
to excavate and examine certain localities from which no objec-
tionable consequences would result, the Embassy like:vise requests
that the necessary permission may be given for that purpose. As
the object of the mission of these persons is to make nseful
scientific inquivies, it is needful that facilitics and support should
be afforded thom. You will accordingly extend to these persons
consideration and regard, and the necessary facilities in regard of *
, the, Sbject of the mission, and, as above stated, permission and
“every possible facility to dig and inspect places, after satisfying the
owners, with the exception of the Noble Sanctuary and the various
Moslem and Christian shrine’.
; “ (Signed) Manomep Russap.
“27 Ramazan, 1283.”
330 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM
A letter accompanied the vizierial letter, stating that an order
could not be given for us to excavate in the Noble Sanctuary of
Jerusalem, because the Prince of Wales was the only Frank who
had visited it; thus confusing the Sanctuary of Jerusalem with
the more jealously-guarded one at Hebron. A Ictter was written
to the: Porte explaining the mistake, but no satisfactory answer
was obtained. As long as this lasted I thought I was justified in
endeavouring to examine the hidden portion of the Sanctuary. In
1869, however, a firmaun arrived forbidding excavations there,
signed with the Sultan’s own hand. I at once wrote home to state
that after this T could not undertake any more work there beyond
a survey. The following is the substance of this document. It
ix dated the 19th Muharrem, 1283, or May Ist, 1869.
© Lieutenant Warren proceeds to Syria for the purpose of carry-
ing out archeological researches, and excavating for antiquitics
The authoritics in Syria are conjoined to give an officer to ac-
company him on his mission. He should be allowed to make
excavations, uuder certain conditions, at localitics where antiquities
ure likely to be found; but he should on no account be permitted
to make excavations at the Haram-esh-Shereef, at the Musjod-el-
Aksa, the Kubbei-es-Sakhra, or any othor places in the immediate
vicinity of the said Haram-csh-Shercef. Lieutenant Warren is
‘empowered to carry on such archwological rescarchos as are
mentioned above during the period of one year from the date of
this firmaun.”
Cc. W.
APPENDIX II. 331
APPENDIX IT.
Letter of December 4th, 1868.—Eatract from Athenceum.—* We are
told that the meaning of the word Tadi is ‘obscurity.” he
Jerusalem translation of the Mishna says: ‘adi served for no
(ordinary) purpose,’ and further, ‘that it was used by the priests
to retire by, should they have become defiled during their service
in the Templo.’ We read further on: ‘ All the gates there had
lintels, oxcept Tadi; there two stones inclined one upon another.’
There we read again that the gate Nitsots ‘had a door into the Chel,
and that to the house Mokad, were two doors, open to the Chel,
Again, with regard to the house Mokad: ‘In the north-east
(chamber) they descended to the House of Baptism; and again,
the priest ‘rogo and went out in the gallery that ran under the
arch, and candles flamed on either side until he came to the House
of Baptism” Rabbi Eleazer, the son of Jacob, says: ‘In the
gallery that wont under the Chel he passed out through Tadi.’
Dr. Lightfoot, in his Commentaries, says that the priests after
suffering defilement ‘were to bathe as was said before, and the way
to the bathing-place is expressed in these words : “He gocth down
a turning staircaso that went under the Temple.” ‘Therefore it is
hard to say which way this passage to the bathing-place lay, since
the word will enlarge it to any part of the Temple. It appeareth
it was somo vault underground through which they passed; into
which vault they went down by a turning pair of stairs, out of the
north-west room of Beth Mokad. And from thence whither they
went, whether under the Chel, as Rabbi Eleazer conceiveth, or
under some part of the court or mountain of the house, it is but in
vain to search; it scemeth the bath was underground, and a room
by it with o fire in it to warm themselves at when they had done
bathing.” We have then the certainty that the passage from
Mokad to the House of Baptism was underground, and the in-
ference that Tadi was on the same level and underground also.
Now, looking at Dr. Lightfoot’s plan, placed over the Sanctuary,
we sce that Nitsots is over the passage down into the Sakhra, and
that thore is ‘a passage running in the direction of Mokad, and
which appears to unite with Tadi above the northern edge of the
Mosque Platform, at a point where there is a hollow sound as of
vaults underneath.”
332 APPENDIX
-Beturn showing the height of courses in the Sanctuary.
Isr Evocit, 2xp Epoci, | meme Ter EPOOE.
Ton z “3
' | eae
- * gift. Gin.
+ Wilson's | Prophet's |South-west east of
Arch. : Gateway. | Angle. SW,
Angie. °
ast | uistt, cast | West of +
j ofS of SW. | Triple
Angle. Angle. | Gate.
Single
Gate,
each course.
fo
Es
=.
=
No, or let-
ter given to
4 5 6: 7 9
Ft. tn, Ft. in. Ft in. Ft. in. Ft. in.
Ee
<a
wos
a
=
IO OOP Ne
'
Appenpix IY. , :
Return showing the height, &., of Courses of Stone at Barclay’s Gateway, exposed by. an excavation commenced 17th March, 1868, and
* vomplefed. The stones 1 to 8 are above ground, and were observed abu:it 40 feet from Barciay’s Gate to north; the remainder, fron:
B to V. are beneath the surface of the ground.
i Depth of ;
Rock to Lintel i a!
a oe Oe ene Ed ee
fom fe in fim fe im et in [em [te im mm Rm i
; 8 B85 ; ! | j0 -0 |
Squared stones...... z : é 10 $85 oe No bevels. H wt des 7 j
5/3 6 i ‘to 1 | i
fi 4°3 47/0 64 0 6.0 2 0 22°0 2/0 28) 0 1 | 0 Of Wom.
| $13 6 10 4 0 33 0 2 0 thjo 0 2 0 02 ' 0 02 Ditto,
; 2-43 8 | O4hi .. 0 2). 6 10 high | 0 03 | 0 og | Ditto,
u | Lintel course. en
vis 2)o a: io gi fou | ue | JO oF Dita
‘A IB 5 See fl ea | Pal ier eee, aoe 0 1°) 0 0 | Very much worn,
B 88/0 8 ony 0 3 |0 1 |0 0 — In good preservation.
|} 0:38 7 |0 3h we | vee [oe | 0 1 ' 0 04 Wornat bottom .
D : 8 i # ioe ee sed oe | 0 oj 0 ‘ Poke ot bation:
aoe oes we oa reservation.
| F38 8$/0 2. oO we ee | 0 OF] 0 OF Stonsiworie
! ¢ a H : ri IP vices! /° 24 eae aoe: og 0 02 wl preserved,
: Bf 0 a to oe we 0} 0 03° Topin good pres, bottom worn.
Bevelled stones ... < x 3 44 ;0 4 | 0 24.0 2% | ace sos. [0 Of 0 0 Broken sill, course of gate.
é 7 8h) 0 SB)... ef #3 Aas bog ws | Not sven,
: x} ; |
j LB lon} 0 5h (0 4g aa ws | 0 OF 19 0} ; Well preserved.
;M 8 9'O 43: 2. 03 /9 2%) 0 3/0 1k o oO! Ditto.
‘| N 3113)0 34,0 3 0 8 | 0 28/0 23/0 OF 0 03 Ditto.
!O 8 6/0 5 |0 1300 «33 O 22/0 2 0 OF 0 03 | Ditto.
“P18 6/0 44:0 48 0 43) 0 210 2/0 of 0 01 Ditto,
°Q 38 5 0 4 be 0 4! eros s+ 10 14 0 0} Top well pres. bottom broken.
R38 6$/0 44° 0/33 0 3 j (0 3 |0 2);0 1 Oo OL Ditto, ditto.
-8 36/0 - 08 | es ws |O 1b 0 OF Ditto. ditto.
. T B 5E/O0 3h. 0 3g 0 2 10 24/0 23/0 of 0 Of Ditto. ditto.
| U.8 ie ees eS nO en vs, 0 Ok 0 OL © Ditto. ditto.
UVi2 Pow. Lo. see sue aed - |0 0 «+; No bevel, stone embed. in rock.
Total distance from) 78 64 | Total set out 0 12 1 5
ease SA me '
788
‘KY TVSQUML AO KUTAOORE
PART II. —
THE HOLY LAND.
337
THE SEA OF GALILEE.
BY CAPTAIN WILSON, R.E,
Wirn the exception of Jerusalem, there is no place
in Palestine which excites deeper interest’ than that
lake district in which our Lord passed so large a
portion of the last. three years of His life, and in
which He performed so many of His mighty. works.
“What is the -Sea-of Galilee like?” is one of the
first questions a, traveller is asked on his return from
the Holy Land; and a question which he finds it
extremely difficult to answer satisfactorily, Some
authors ‘describe its beauties in glowing terms,
whilst others assert that the scenery is tanie and
uninteresting ; neither perhaps quite correct, though
representing the impressions produced at the time on
the writer’s mind. - .
There are, it is true, no pine-clad hills rising from Genoral de-
the very edge of the lake; no bold headlands break #yF4".
the ‘outline. of its shores, and lofty precipices*
throw their shadow over its waters; ‘but it has,
nevertheless, a beauty of its own wlth would always
make it remarkable. The hills, except at Khan
) ,
338 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
Minyeh, where there is a small cliff, are recessed
from the shore of the lake, or rise gradually from it ;
they are of no great elevation, and their outline,
especially on the eastern side, is not broken by any
prominent peak; but everywhere from the southern
end the snow-capped peak of Hermon is visible,
standing out so sharp and clear in the bright sky
that it appears almost within reach, and, towards the
north, the western ridge is cut through by a wild
gorge, “the Valley of Doves,” over which rise the
twin peaks or horns of Hattin. The shore-line, for
the most part regular, is broken on the north into a
series of little bays of exquisite beauty ; nowhere
more beautiful than at Gennesareth, where the
beaches, pearly white with myriads of minute shells,
are on one side washed by the limpid waters of the
lake, and on the other shut in by a fringe of
oleanders, rich in May with their “blossoms red and |
bright.”
The surrounding hills are of a uniform brown
colour, and would be monotonous if it were not for
the ever-changing lights and the brilliant tints at
sunrise and sunset. It is, however, under the pale
light of a full moon that the lake is seen to the.
greatest advantage, for there is then a softness in the
outlines, a calm on the water in which the stars are
so brightly mirrored, and a perfect quiet in all
around which harmonise well with the feelings that
cannot fail to arise on its shores. It is perhaps’
difficult to realise’ that the borders of this lake, now
so silent and desolate, were once enlivened by the:
busy hum of towns and villages; and that on its
THE SEA OF GALILEE. ee 989
Gaiaie toehilecn navies a. boritatided for. supremacy. But
there is one feature which must strike every visitor;
and that is the harmony of the Gospel narrative
with the places which it describes; giving us,
as M. Renan happily expresses it, ‘un cinquiéme
évangile, lacéré, mais lisible encore.”
The lake is pear-shaped, the broad end being
towards the north; the greatest width is six and
three quarter miles, from Mejdel, “Magdala,” to
Khersa, “ Gergesa,” about one-third of the way
down, and the extreme length is twelve and a
quarter miles. The Jordan enters at the north, a
' swift muddy stream, colouring the lake a good mile
from its mouth, and passes out pure and bright at
the south. On the north-western shore of the lake
is a plain, two anda half miles long and one mile
broad, called by the Bedawin El Ghuweir, but
better known by its familiar Bible name of Genne-
sareth; and on the north-east, near Jordan’s mouth,
ig a swampy plain, El Batthah, now much frequented
by wild boar, formerly the scene of a skirmish
between the Jews and Romans, in which Josephus
met with an accident that necessitated his removal
to Capernaum. On the west there is a reccss in the
hills, containing the town of Tiberias; and on the
east, at the mouths of Wadys Semakh and Fik, are
small tracts of level ground. Ou the south the fine
open valley of the Jordan stretches away towards
the Dead Sea, and is covered in the neighbourhood of
the Jake with luxuriant-grass, ~
The water of the lake is bright, clear, and sweet to
the taste, except in the neighbourhood of the salt-
2a 2
Climate of
lake district.
340 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
springs, and where it is defiled by the drainage of.
Tiberias. Its level, which varies considerably at dif-
ferent times of year, is between 600 feet and 700 feet
below that of the Mediterranean—a peculiarity to
which the district owes its genial winter climate. In
summer the heat is great, but never excessive, as
there is usually a morning and evening breeze.
Sudden storms, such as those mentioned in the New
Testament, are by no means uncommon; and I had
a good opportunity of watching one of them from
the ruins of Gamala on the eastern hills, The
morning was delightful; a gentle easterly breeze,
and not a cloud in the sky to give warning of what
was coming, Suddenly, about midday, there was a
sound of distant thunder, and a smal] cloud, “ no
bigger than a man’s hand,” was seen rising over the
heights of Lubieh to the west. In a few moments
the cloud appeared to spread, and heavy black
masses came rolling down the hills towards the lake,
completely obscuring Tabor and Hattin. At this
moment the breeze died away, there were a few
minutes of perfect calm, during which the sun shone
out with intense power, and the surface of the Jake
was smooth and even asa mirror; Tiberias, Mejdel,
and other buildings stood out in sharp relief from
the gloom behind; but they were soon lost sight of
as the thunder gust swept past them, and rapidly
advancing across the lake lifted the placid water
into a bright sheet of foam: in another moment it
reached the ruins, driving myself and companion to
take refuge in a cistern, where, for nearly an hour,
we were confined, listening to the rattling peals of
FORMATION OF THE BASIN. 341
thunder and torrents of rain. The effect of half the
lake in perfect rest, whilst the other half was in wild
wonfusion, was extremely grand: it would have
fared badly with any light craft caught in mid-lake
by the storm; and. we could not help thinking of
that memorable occasion on which the storm is so
graphically described as “coming down” upon the
lake. |
The Sea of Galilee now, as in the days of our
Saviour, is well stocked with various species of fish,
some of excellent flavour. One species often appears
in dense masses which blacken the surface of the
water, the individual fish being packed so closely
together that on one occasion a single shot from a
revolver killed three. These shoals were most
frequently seen near the shore of Gennesareth ;
perhaps not far from that place where the disciples
Jet down their net into the sea, and “inclosed a
" great multitude of fishes; and their net brake.”
There does not appear to be anything volcanic in Geological
the origin of the lake, which is simply part of the pasa
great Jordan depression. The hills on either side
are limestone, capped in places with basalt, which
has three distinct sources: one at Kurn Hattin, or in
its neighbourhood; another near Khan Jubb Yusuf,
north of the lake; and a third in the Jaulan district.
Earthquakes are frequent, and sometimes extremely
violent; as, for example, that of 1837, which laid
Tiberias in rains, and caused the death of seven
hundred persotis; and the scarcely less terrible one
which occurred in 1759. There are in the basin of
the lake a number of warm springs, which are said
Mouth of
lordan,
Bethsaida-
‘ulias,
Tel Hum.
Capernaum.
342 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
to have increased both in volume and temperature
after the earthquake of 1837.
The above description will, it is hoped, give the
reader some idea of the general character of the lake
district, and enable him, with the assistance of the
map, to realise the position of the places in the
following narrative. I have.at the end added a few
notes on the sites of the three cities, and the pro-
bability of the identification of Capernaum with Tel
Hum, and Chorazin with Kerdzeh. :
see
WEST SIDE OF LAKE FROM JORDAN’S ENTRANCE TO
ITS EXIT.
At the mouth of the Jordan, on its western bank,
are a few small mounds and heaps of stones called
Abu Zany, the site, according to Dr, Thomson, of
the Galilean Bethsaida; and not far from the eastern
bank, shaded by palm trees, are traces of an ancient
village, and foundations of old walls, amongst which
are scattered a few Arab tombs, and fragments of.
basaltic columns. This, place the same author
identifies, and with great probability, with Bethsaida-
Julias, the burial-place of Philip the Tetrarch, who
had rebuilt. the town and called it Julias, after the
emperor's daughter.. From the Jordan to Tel Hum,
a distance of two miles, there is little of interest, no
ruins, and but scant vegetation, except where two
small springs, Ain Zany and Ain Aysheh, run down
through the basaltic rocks to the lake. Tel Hum
was the first of our many pleasant camps on. the
shores of the Sea of Galilee. We had left Safed, on
TEL HUM. 348
the heights above, in a keen easterly wind, chilled
by the snow which still lay on the Jaulan plateau,.
and were delighted with the genial climate which we
found at the lake when we had descended to its
level, We were soon amongst those ruins which, if
they are, as we believe them to be, those of Caper-
naum, must always have such a lasting interest. The
season was favourable for an examination, the tall
thistles which hide the ruins in early summer not
having yet reared their heads; and we readily made
our way to the “ White Synagogue” and the more
conspicuous building at the water's edge. It needed
but a glance to show that the latter had been almost
entirely built with limestone blocks taken from the
Synagogue, and to this therefore we principally turned
our attention. A party of Arabs, brought down
from Safed, were set to work, and cleared out a large
portion of the interior, sufficient to enable.a plan to
be made, Excavation with no means but those the
country could provide was no easy matter ; no picks
or shovels, not even a crowbar or a piece of: wood
large enough to be of any use could be procured ; the
ec: “i was laboriously scraped into baskets and carried
away, whilst the heavy stones were turned over by
our living crowbar, a man of great strength, with a
short neck, who appeared to have been born for the
purpose. He would dig a hole at the foot of the
great limestone blocks to receive his head and
shoulders, and then raising his feet against the face
of the stones, exert all his power to move them,
rarely failing to do what he attempted.
The Synagogue, built entirely of white limestone,
844 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
Sam
must once have been a conspicuous object, standing
out from the dark basaltic background ; it is “now
nearly level with. the surface,:and its capitals and
columns have been for the most part carried away or
turned intolime. The original building is 74 feet
9 inches long, by 56 feet 9 inches wide; it is built
north and south, and at the southern end has three
entrances. In the interior we found many of the
pedestals of the columns in their original positions,
and several capitals of the Corinthian order buried
in the rubbish; there were also blocks of stone which
had evidently rested on the columns and supported
wooden rafters. Outside the Synagogue proper, but
connected with it, we uncovered the remains of a later
building, which may be those of the church which
Epiphanius says was built at Capernaum, and was
described by Antoninus, 4.p. 600; as a Basilica
inclosing the house of Peter. It may be asked what
reason there is for believing the original building to
have been a Jewish synagogue, and not a temple ‘or
church. Seen alone there might have been some
doubt as to its character, but compared with the
number of ruins of the same character which have
lately been brought to notice in Galilee, there cdit be
none. ‘Two of these buildings have inscriptions in
Hebrew over their main entrances ; one in connection
with a seven-branched candlestick, the other with
figures of the paschal lamb, and all without exception
are constructed after a fixed plan, which is totally
different from that of any church, temple, or mosque
in Palestine. For a description of the very marked
Ee ee hTERT Fey SS TORT AC A: SRS, Deen y Meee eee eee ae
THE WHITE SYNAGOGUE. 345
~#-
other-buildiigs I.would refer the reader to an article
on the subject in the Second Quarterly Statement of
the Palestine Exploration Fund. If Tel Hum be
Capernaum, this is without a doubt the synagogue
built by the Roman centurion (Luke vii. 4, 5), and
one of the most sacred places. on earth. It was in
this building that our Lord gave the well-known
discourse in John vi., and it was not without a
certain strange feeling that on turning over a large
block we found the pot of manna engraved on. its
face, and remembered the words, “I am that bread of
_life. Your fathers did eat manna in the wilderness,
and are dead.”
Round the Synagogue, and stretching up the
gentle slope ‘behind, are the ruins of the ancient
town, covering a larger extent of ground than we
had been led to expect. The whole area, half a mile
in length by’ a quarter in breadth, was thickly
covered with the ruined walls of private houses,
amongst which we thought we could trace a main
street, leading in the direction of Chorazin. At
the northern extremity of the town two remarkable
tombs were found, one constructed with limestone
bl-cks below the surface of the ground, which must
have been a work of great labour, as the hard basalt
on the surface had first to be cut away; the other,
a rectangular building capable of holding a large
number of bodies, which is above ground, and appears
to have been whitewashed within and without. It
is possibly this description of tomb to which our
Lord refers in Matt. xxiii. 27, where He compares the
Scribes and Pharisees to “whited sepulchres,” beauti-
Kerazeh,
Chorazin.
346 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM. —
ful in outward appearance, but within “full of dead
men’s bones:” a similar building may also have
been the home of the demoniac at Gergesa.
The shore was eagerly searched, but without
success, for traces of an artificial harbour. The boats
which formerly belonged to the town must always
have taken shelter at Et Tabigah, or, as is just as
probable, have been drawn up on the bank when
not in use. There are, however, along the shore
several fish-traps made by the Bedawin, which some
travellers have taken for the remains of piers; they
consist of inclosures, made with large stones, in the
shallow water, an opening being left for the fish to
enter by; in this manner a few fish are caught each
night. .
Before leaving Capernaum we cannot help drawing
attention to the additional force and beauty which our
Lord’s words in Matt. xi. 23 derive by adopting the
' reading of the two oldest known MSS. of the New
Testament (the Sinaitic and Vatican): “And thou,
Capharnaum! shalt thou be exalted unto heaven?
thou shalt be brought down to hell,” There is a
reproach conveyed in this question to “ His own city”
which is lost in the rendering of the authorized
version; and it is impossible to draw from it the
fanciful conglusion that Capernaum was on a hill,
as a late writer has done from the words, “And
thou, Capernaum, which art exalted unto heaven.”
An hour’s journey (24 miles) north of Tel Hum,
and on the left bank of the valley which falls int
the lake near it, are the ruins of Kerazeh, Chorazin.
As early as 1740 Pococke heard the name of Gerasi, —
EKERAZEH. 347
and identified it with Chorazin; and since his time
the place has been mentioned and visited by more
than one traveller; but perhaps owing to the peculiar
character of the masonry, barely to be distinguished
at one hundred yards distance from the rocks which
surround it, and the shortness of their visits, they
have failed to appreciate the extent and significance
of the ruins. They cover an area as large, if not
larger, than the ruins of Capernaum, and are situated
partly in a shallow valley, partly on a rocky spur
formed by a sharp bend in Wady Kerazeh, or, as it
is called lower down, Wady Tel Hum, here a wild
gorge eighty feet deep. From this last place there
is a beautiful view of the lake to its southern end;
and here too are gathered the most interesting ruins
—a synagogue, with Corinthian capitals, niche heads
and other ornaments cut, not as at Tel Hum, in
limestone, but in the hard black basalt. Many of
the dwelling-houses are in a tolerably perfect state,
the walls being in some cases six feet high; and as
they are probably the same class of houses as that in
which our Saviour dwelt, a description of them may
be interesting. They are generally square, of diffe-
rent. sizes—the largest measured was nearly 30 feet-—
and have one or two columns down the centre to
support the roof, which appears to have been flat, as
in the modern Arab houses. The walls are about
two feet thick, built of masonry or of loose blocks of
basalt; there is a low doorway in the centre of one
of the walls, and each house has windows 12 inches
nigh and 63 inches wide. In one or two cases the
houses were divided into four chambers.
Kt 'Tabigah,
Fountain of
Caphurnaun,
348 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
Almost in the centre of the ancient town is a fine
tree with spreading branches, beneath which a
spring rises up and flows down the valley ; by its
side are the tombs of two Bedawi sheikhs, over
which passing travellers have hung. shreds from
their many-coloured garments, and a few yards to
the south a large building with remnants of Ionic
capitals. On the north we found traces of the paved
road which connected Chorazin with the great
caravan road to Damascus,
Westward along the shore of the lake, a mile and
a half from Tel Hum, is the charming little bay of
Kt Tabigah, and the great spring which is without F
a doubt the fountain of Capharnaum, mentioned by
Josephus as watering the plain of Gennesareth. The
bay is about half a mile across, and on its western °
side is shut in by the cliff of Khan Minyeh, the
only place at which the shore of the lake cannot be
‘followed. There is a small tract of fertile land, but
we could find no ruins except those connected with
the mills or waterworks. There are five fountains,
all more or less brackish, and varying in temperature
from 733° to 863°; four are small, but the one
mentioned above is by far the largest spring in
Galilee, and was estimated to be more than ha
the size of the celebrated source of the Jordan at
Banias. It rises to the surface with great force, -
at a temperature of 863°, which can hardly be
considered warm in such a climate as that of the
lake district. Most of the water now runs to waste,
producing a quantity of rank luxuriant vegetation ;
but some of it is collected in a small reservoir, and is
AQUEDUCT. 349
thence carried off by an aqueduct to a mill owned by
a man of Safed, the only one in working order of
five that were built by the great chieftain Dhaher
el ’Amr. The mills are small towers with two
circular shafts, to the top of which the water is
brought by aqueducts, and then, falling down, turns
the machinery at the bottom. Connected with this
fountain are the remains of some remarkable works
which at one time raised its waters to a higher level,
and conveyed them bodily into the plain of Genne-
sarcth for the purposes of irrigation. The source
is inclosed in an octagonal reservoir of great
strength, by means of which the water was raised
about twenty feet to the level of an aqueduct that
ran along the side of the hill, Strong as the
reservoir was, the water has at last broken through
it, and there is now little more than two feet left at
the bottom, in which a number of small fish may be
seen playing about. After leaving the reservoir the
aqueduct can be traced at intervals following the
contour of the ground to the point where it crossed
the beds of two water-courses on arches, of which
th piers may still be seen; it then turns down
__pewards the lake, and runs along the hillside on the
top of. a massive retaining wall, of which fifty or
sixty yards remain, and lastly passes round the Khan
Minyeh cliff by a remarkable excavation in the solid
’ yock, which has been noticed by all travellers. The
elevation of the aqueduct at this point is sufficient to
have enabled the water brought by it to irrigate the
_ whole plain of Gennesareth; and though we could
only trace it for a few hundred yards inland, it was
350 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
not improbably carried right round the head of the
plain: the same causes which have almost obliterated
it in the small plain of Tabigah would fully account
for its disappearance in Gennesareth.
Ain et Tin, On passing round the cliff mentioned above, the
first object which strikes the eye is the rich green of
the turf which borders the fountain of the Fig-tree,
“ Ain et Tin,” a fitting commencement to the rich
plain of Gennesareth which stretches out beyond it.
The spring is small, and although there are two
heads it is not more than one-fourth the size of the
fountain of Et Tabigah. It is very little above the
level of the lake, which at times, judging from old
water-marks, rises into it, and it is slightly brackish,
and considered unhealthy by the Bedawin, who
invariably use the water of the lake in preference.
Khan Minyoh. A short distance north of the spring is Khan Minyeh,
almost a ruin, though inhabited by a few Arabs,
The Khan was doubtless built for the convenience
of travellers to Damascus, and is at least as old as
the twelfth century, being mentioned by Bohaeddin
in his “ Life of Saladiv.” West of the spring are the
ruins which Dr. Robinson, the learned American
traveller, identifies wit. Capernaum. They: * is
a series of mounds, covering an extent of grow
small in comparison with either those of Tel Hum
or Kerazeh. We made some smal] excavations in
these, but did not succeed in finding the remains
of any building of great size. The walls were rude’ ~
built, and the fragments of pottery dug up appearecis
to be modern. There were traces of a thick wall
surrounding the site. No fragments of columns,
KHAN MINYEH. 851
capitals, or carved stones were found in the ruins,
nor could any be seen in the walls of the Khan, or
round the tombs close by—-a fact which seems to
indicate that the ruins are of modern date, or at any
rate never contained any building such as the syna-
gogues or churches found elsewhere, as in all other
places old material is invariably found built into the
walis of later buildings where they are near old sites.
On the hill above Khan Minych are a few unim-
portant ruins, with a small platform, to which there
is an ascent by rude steps, called Tel Lareyné. About
a mile north of this, on the hills above Et Tabigah,
are other ruins, Khurbet Khureibeh, remnants of
walls, with a few door-posts and lintels, and frag-
ments of columns of basalt. Not far from this are
several tombs cut, like modern graves, in the rock,
and ‘covered with stone lids after the manner of ”
sarcophagi.
Southward from Khan Minyeh stretches the plain x1 Guaweir.
of Gennesareth, with its charming bays and its fertile Gounesareth,
soil, rich with the scourings of the basaltic hills; the
plain is now thickly covered with brushwood, and a
few isolated patches of corn are cultivated by the
Be}. ia, who depend on the-Winter rains for success
’. + gising it; but formerly-it was watered by irriga-
tion, and must’ have been extremely productive,
equalling, if not exceeding, in this respect the larger
plain of Damascus. Josephus describes the district
in glowing terms, and in this case at any rate he
Ajes not appear to have exaggerated. The hills,
vhich rise rather abruptly from the plain, are broken
by three valleys or wadys, down which in winter
Round
Fountain.
852 - RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
small streams of water flow to the lake. The first
of these from. Khan Minyeh is the “ Valley of the
Column,” Wady Amtd, which rises in the recesses
of Jurmuk, the highest mountain of Galilee, and
forces its way down through a deep cleft in. the
limestone. Next in order comes Wady Rubudiyeh,
which drains ‘a large district to the west, and runs
through an open valley with thickets of wild olive
‘near its head, strikingly in contrast with the wild
gorge, through which the waters of the third, Wady
Hamam, pass. From the mouths of each of these
valleys aqueduets are carried to the right and left,
for the irrigation of the plain. Some appear to be
very old, and may formerly have been connected
with the aqueduct from the Tabigah spring, which
would supply water when the streams were dry.
Between Wady Rubudiyeh and Wady Hamam is the
“Round Fountain,’ Ain Mudawarah, which is: held
‘by some travellers to be the fountain of Capernaum.
There are, however, no ruins of consequence in the
vicinity, and the wall whic surrounds the spring is
not sufficiently strong to raise the water to a higher
level; there are no traces of aqueducts, and it seems
never to have been used much for irrigation, as the
water from the two streams on either side was
brought almost up to it. The fountain is about one-
third the size of that of Et Tabigah; the water is
sweet, and rises ata temperature of 73°: anumber of
small fish were seen, and Mr. Tristram tells us, in his
“Land of Israel,” that he found several specimens of
the Coracinus—a fish common also to the waters of
the Nile.
WADY- HAMAM. 353.
At the. southern ‘extremity of the plain is 4 heap of Mejdst
ruins, now called: Méjdel, the site of Magdala, once the ™istale.
home of that Maty whose history is. so: touchingly .
recorded in the New Testament. There are several
mounds of rubbish along the shore of the lake towards
Khan Minyeh, perhaps marking the sites of ‘those’
towns and villages in which our Lord taught; and on
the hills close to Wady Rubudiyeh is a village,
Shusheh, inhabited by a band of Algerines who
followed the fortunes of their Emir when he took up
his home in the east, but evidently built on the débris
of an aricient village or town. On the level ground |
below are five deserted mills, built like those at
Tabigah by Dhaher el Amr. ;
' From Mejdel, we made an expedition to the caves Wady Hamam.
in Wady Hamam, once inhabited by robbers, but Difet oe
afterwards the resort of hermits and monks. The
cliffs on either side of the little stream rise almost
perpendicularly to a height of about 1200 feet, and
in their faces are the curious system of caverns some-
times called Kalat ibn Ma’an. Our visit was paid to
those on the right or southern bank, a short distance
below the ruins of Arbela (Irbid). After climbing
up. the steep side of the valley we reached a flight of
steps which led to the first tier of caverns; from this
there was a circular staircase to a second row, and
higher still were two other sets of chambers inaccessible
‘from below-: we were for some time ata loss to find out
how the inhabitants reached their homes, but after a
good search found the remains of some rock-hewn
steps, Which came down through a narrow cleft from
‘the ground above. The caverns are of considerable
28
354 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
_ extent, and those on the same level are connected, by
narrow passages cut in the face of the rock, the sides
next the valley being protected by walls, The
mouths of the caverns are closed with masonry, in
which a number of basaltic stones brought. from the
plain below are used ; the interiors appear to have been
plastered, and there are recesses in their sides which
may have been. sleeping-places. The appearance of
the masonry and other details gave us the impression
that the caverns had been used by Christian commu-
nities after the robbers had disappeared, and reminded |
us strongly of the similar establishment in thé Mount
of Temptation near Jericho. As a robbers’ den the
place is perfect; a sheer precipice, with only a few
steps to give access to the caves, inaccessible and
perfectly safe from all attacks, except that one which
Herod. the Great so successfully employel, The
robbers were strong enough to meet Herod in open
hattle, but after a sharp encounter they were defeated,
and retired to the caves, in which they were besieged.
Herod, finding all approach from the valley impracti-
cable, had a number of large boxes prepared, and in
these he let down his soldiers, by means of a strong
chain, from the top of the cliff, Then ensued one of
the most extraordinary fights which perhaps ever
took place : the soldiers swinging in mid-air attacked-
the robbers with fire and sword, or with long hooks
tried to pull them out over the precipices ; the latter
tried in turn to break the chains which connected
the boxes with mother earth, but all to no purposé—
they were completely subdued. T owards the end of the
felt ane of those strange scenes ocenrred which are
IRBID. 355
almost without parallel in the history of othercountries :
a father stands at the mouth of his rock-cut home,
and orders his seven children to come out one by one;
as each appears a sword is thrust into his side, and
he falls headlong over the precipice; then follows
the wife, and last the stern parent, after upbraiding
Herod with his low origin, springs forward, and is
dashed to pieces, sooner than surrender to the victor.
; The series of caverns on the north or left bank of
phe valley we did not visit, but we made an examina-
tion of the ruins on the height above which were
first described by Irby and Mangles. They consist
of a thick wall with flanking towers, designed
‘apparently to prevent an enemy from approaching
the caverns from above, and inclose a triangular
‘piece of ground bounded on two sides by inaccessible
precipices. These may perhaps be the fortifications
which Josephus says he built to protect the caves,
Opposite on the southern heights lie the ruins of mia,
Irbid, the ancient Arbela, a place once of some im- Atel.
portance; part of the surrounding wall is standing,
and there are two small pools, several cisterns, and
the remains of numerous houses belonging to the old
town, amongst which, easily discernible, are those of
a later Arab village. Close to the edge of the steep
descent to Wady Hamdm is an old synagogue,
similar to those found in other places, except that the
door is on the eastern side instead of the southern,
an arrangement necessitated by the rapid rise of the
ground. to the south. The building was at one time
used as a mosque, and many changes appear to have
been made in it at that time, as we found both
2B 2
Kurn Hattin.
» Horns of
Hattin,
Mount of
Leatitudes.
356 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
Corinthian and Ionie capitals in the rubbish ;, there
were too the same semi-barbarous mouldings, and
peculiar arrangement of columns, which are: dis-
tinctive marks of the Galilean synagogues. :
From Irbid a fine rich plain stretches westward to
the village of Hattin and the foot of the steep asverit
which is crowned by the “Horns of Hattin.” This
curious peak with its twin horns is, according to
tradition, the mount on which our Lord delivered
the beautiful discourse in Matt. v. 7, and is alsd
remembered as the scene of the last expiring struggfe
of the Christians at the fatal battle of Hattin. Ap
parently an ancient crater, and one of the centres\
from which the lava flowed down towards Tiberias,’
“the Horns” with the hollow between them form a
sort of natural fortress; and there is no doubt it was
formerly used .as one, for in the interior is a
cistern, and round the edge of the depression are the
remains of walls.’ On the south the peak rises not
more than 40 or 50 feet above the great plain on”
which the battle was fought, but on the north there
is a sharp descent to the plain of Hattin and “ Valley
of Doves ;” from the summit there is a commanding
view, on one side over the rich plains towards Tabor,
and on the other over the ruins of Arbela, the plain
of Gennesareth, and the northern coast of the
lake. : ,
The tradition which makes Kurn Hattin the
Mount of Beatitudes is of Latin origin, and not older
than the twelfth or thirteenth century; but the place
is so well adapted for the delivery of a discourse to a
large multitude, that in this case we may well
BATTLE OF HATTIN. 357
believe it was correctly chosen by those who first
selected it. , :
The battle of Hattin, which was fought under the patito of
fierce heat of a July sun (5th July, 1187), and re- 2a
sulted in the loss of the cross, the capture of the
King of Jerusalem, and the almost total destruction
of the Christian host, is one of those curious en-.
counters in which the fate of one side seems ordained
from the. commencement. Never perhaps could the
old saying “ Quos Deus vult perdere, prius dementat”
"be applied with more justice than to the leaders of
the Christian “army : encamped round the springs of
Sefuriyeh, the ancient Sepphoris, they learned that
Saladin had taken Tiberias; ‘a council of war was at
once called, and Count Raymond’s advice to remain
near water and fortify their camp adopted: it was
now midnight, the knights and barons had retired
to rest, when suddenly a trumpet sounded through the
camp, and the heralds gave the word to arm. The
King, influenced by the Grand Master of the Templars,
had changed his fickle mind and determined to .
march at once to Tiberias, and would not even give
an audience to the knights who wished to warn him
against. the danger of such an advance. It must
have been daybreak before the army was in readiness
to march,’ and at that time of year the sun soon
makes its power felt. The road from Sefuriyeh to
Tiberias passes up a long open valley till it reaches
Lubieh, whence it commences its. descent to the lake,
‘at first gradually over the plain in front of Kurn
Hattin, then rapidly to the town of Tiberias. Up
Mis road, where there is no water, no shade, and
where the glare of the limestone rocks adds to the
358 : RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
intense heat of ‘tie sun, the Christians advanced,
harassed on all sides by the light horse of the
Saracens. In the afternoon they reached Lubieh,
exhausted by the heat and want of water, and found
the army of Saladin drawn up on the heights above
Tiberias : then again evil counsel prevailed ; instead
of at once attacking, wearied though they were, and
forcing their way to the lake, the soldiers lay down
for the night on ‘the bare, waterless heights; those
who, tormented with thirst, tried to search for water,
were cut off by their active enemies, and, to add to
the horrors of the night, the dry grass and shrubs to
windward were fired by the Saracens. The result of
the next day could not be doubtful; the Christians
fought with their usual valour, but two days’ exertion
undera Syrian sun was, without water, too much for
the bravest: the footmen and archers failed first. and
threw aside their arms, then the knights retired to the
- height.of Kurn Hattin, where prodigies of valour were
performed; thrice the attacks of the Saracens were
driven back; then, the cross lost, the Bishop of
Ptolemais who bore it dead, and Count Raymond
with his followers fled, the King, with the few
knights who remained, surrendered to Saladin, The
black basaltic rocks which surround the summit seem _
in keeping with the last scene of the sad drama—the
death of two hundred Templars and Hospitallers who
were executed after the battle. Dean Stanley, in his
notice of the battle, has drawn attention to the
touching circumstance that the last struggle of the
Crusaders occurred “in. the presence of the poles
scenes of Christianity.”
FEEDING OF THE FIVE THOUSAND. 359
journey southwards along the lake. About half way
between Mejdel and Tiberias, a distance of three
miles, a small ravine comes down frem the hills, and
opens out on to a small triangular plain covered with
the richest verdure; it is now studded with nebek
trees, but wanting these would be a “level grassy
spot,” such as it was when pointed out to Arculf as
the scene of the miraculous feeding of the five
thousand. Within a few ‘yards of the lake, and
surrounded by thick brushwood, are three springs ;
the centre onc, called Ain Barideh, the “Cold
Spring,” has a temperature of 803°. Two of
the springs are surrounded by walls, apparently to
raise the water for mill purposes, as there are circular
shafts similar to those seen at Tabigah. The water
is sweet and pleasant to the taste. Tradition at
present points out a spot on the brow of the hill Feeding of tho
between Kurn Hattin and Tiberias as that where the *°™""*
multitude “sat down in ranks, by hundreds and by
fifties,” apparently following the reading of John vi. 3,
where it is said, “Jesus went up into a mountain.”
The earlier tradition of the end of the seventh century,
as given by Arculf, was that the scene of the miracle
was at Ain Barideh, where the five thousand “drank
after they had eaten their fill.” All late writers on
Palestine ‘have agreed that the site should rather be
looked for on the eastern side of the lake, but. the
Sinaitic version of Luke ix, 10, and John vi. 22; 23,
places the old tradition in a different light, for in the
former there is no mention of Bethsaida, and in the
latter it is said that the place was close to Tiberias,
We aa nebt ae weal banter Sih nik Lintare, 116 sehen
Tabariyeh.
Tiberias.
360 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
discussing the site of Capernaum, on which it has an
important bearing.
Following th8 road from Ain Baridek to Tiberias,
three small springs on the side of the hill are passed,
and to each is attached a fragment of an old duct:
for irrigation purposes, 4
The modern ‘town of Tiberias, or Pehaiyah: as
the Arabs: call it, occupies only a- small portion of:
the ground covered by be ancient city, the- remains:
of which may be seen stretching southwards fowards
the hot springs. The houses are surrounded on the -
land side by a wall with flanking towers, towards:
the water they are open: the strong wall is now of.
little use, as it has never been repaired since ‘the
great earthquake of 1837 shook it to its foundations,
and the usual-road by which visitors enter passes
through one of the rents. At the time of’ thé earth:
~ quake the bed.of the lake appears to have sanlt.in-
front of the town : we noticed that one of the towers
at the south-east corner had been thrown violently
forward; and Mr. Macgregor, at a lower stage ofthe
water, was able to distinguish from his canoé the
remains of a mole or sea-wall which had quite dis-
appeared. ‘Tiberias, founded by Herod Ar\iparu,
played a conspicuous part in the war with - the
Romans, and was fortified at that time by. Josepl 33,
on:the approach of Vespasian, however, it surrendered
without a blow. It afterwards became, and remained
for several centuries, the chief seat of Jewish learning
in Palestine; and has remained to this day one of
the favourite places of residence of those Jews who.
return to the land of their fathers. The town is
TIBERIAS. 361
now chiefly retjarkable for the filth. of: its streets
and the activity of its vermin, who are in such
numbers and so rapacious that. even the Arabs notice
them, and have a saying that “the. king ‘of fleas
holds his court at Tiberias.”" A small church, said
to stand on the site of St. Peter’s house, and a mosque
half in ruins, with its courtyard and fountain, are the
only buildings which attract attention; but lying
about may still be seen some traces of the grandeur
of:the ancient city—here a magnificent block of
polished granite from Upper Egypt, cut into a
‘basin 6 feet 4 inches in diameter, there a hunting
scene carved.on the surface ofa, hard black lintel of
bagalt..- ‘To the south the ruins cover some extent
of ground ; there are the remains of a sea-wall, and
of some portions of: a city wall, 12 feet thick; many
traces of old buildings, broken shafts and columns,
half buried in rubbish ; and at one place, foundations
which appear to belong to a church, perhaps to. that
which was built during the reign of Constantine on
_ the ‘site of Adrian’s unfinished temple. The present
:water supply,of Tiberias is derived from the lake,
but ‘uring the Roman occupation the inhabitants
Yc. far. more particular in the quality of what they
drank; and we find extensive remains of a fine
2g. ‘duct which brought the sparkling waters of
some fountains at the foot of the Ard el Hamma,
below the southern end of the lake, into the ancient
city, The length of this aqueduct is about nine
miles, and: in places it is‘cut with great labour in the
rock; running ‘along the side of the hills which
border the lake.
362 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
Hot spring, § A mile and a quarter south of modern Tiberias
are the well-known hot springs; we counted and
took the temperature of seven distinct springs,
ranging from 132°2° to 142°2° Fahrenheit. A
strong smell of sulphur rises with the water, and, as
it flows down to the lake a green deposit is formed ;
the springs rise from the limestone formation. Three
of the fountaizis have been inclosed, but only one of
the buildings, that erected by Ibrahim Pacha, is in
a decent state of repair; in this the water is received
into a circular basin about three feet deep, round
which there are marble columns and a paved marble .
floor; the temperature is 136°7°, and the steam
given off is so dense that it was difficult to read our
thermometer with the aid of a candle. This bath is
* much frequented by the poor Jews of Tiberias, and
is said to give great relief in cases of rheumatism. .
A short distance south of the springs are the
remains of a wall, 11 feet 6 inches thick, running from
the lake to the mountain, and to the north of it above
the springs are extensive ruins, which may have,,
been suburbs of old Tiberias. The wall has been
considered part of the camp which Vespasian esta- ,
blished in this neighbourhood ; but it seems to have a
more permanent character than a camp wall would
have had.
Krak. Between the baths and Kerak, at the point where |
Tarichew. Jordan leaves the lake, there are two places with |
some inconsiderable ruins. Kerak, or Tariche,
commanding as it did the southern end of the road ;
which ran along the western shore of the lake, and
also the three bridges over Jordan in its immediate |
KERAK. 363
vicinity, was formerly of great importance, and we
find it repeatedly mentioned in the account which
Josephus gives of his campaign in Galilee. The
position of the place’ is naturally strong; a mound
about 30 feet high, surrounded on three sides by
water, and on the fourth by a broad ditch, through
which a branch of Jordan appears to have passed :
this-feature is produced by the eccentric course of the
Jordan, which soon after leaving the lake takes a
sharp turn and flows nearly north-east. The land
approach was by a causeway, well provided with
culverts, across the ditch, and this was defended by
a small fort or tower on the land side. There are
also the remains of a bridge connecting the town
' with. the eastern side of Jordan. Of the town
absolutely nothing remains but a heap of rubbish
covered with broken pottery and fragments of
sculpture, offering probably a rich field for ex-
cavation,
Tarichese was taken by Titus after a sharp fight
.. with the Jews on the plain outside (B, J. iii. 10, 1—6),
and a day or two afterwards there was a sea-fight
near the same place,'which is graphically described
by Josephus (B. J. iti. 10, 9); 6,500 men are said to
*have been killed in the two engagements; the lake
was coloured with blood for some distance round,
and the air tainted with the number of bodies on the
shore.
.
364 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
EAST SIDE OF LAKE FROM JORDAN’S ENTRANCE TO
ITS EXIT. | :
Whilst staying at Tiberias we had endeavoured to
obtain from the Modir of the town an escort sufficient
to enable us to examine the eastern shore of the laké—
at our leisure, -but that: worthy geitleman, who
seemed: to have a horror of the dwellers.in black
tents, threatened us with a guard of 100 sabres, an
honour which we politely declined. Whether: it was
that our present was not large enough, or that it had
diminished in passing through the hands of our
dragoman, we could not find out; but our. relations
came to a close by the Governor’s refusing to have
anything to do with two Englishmen who were
imsane enough to venture amongst. Bedawin at.open
war with the Turkish Government. . We. were,
however, determined to proceed; and after some
trouble succeeded in hiring a boat to take us to the
mouth of the Jordan, and meet us each night. at
certain fixed points with blankets and a tent; we
were thus enabled to examine on foot and in comfort
a large portion of the eastern shore, and our excursion
turned out to be a remarkably pleasant one, thougfi
brought to a rather abrupt conclusion. Our friend
the Modir we afterwards came across when visiting
a Bedawin camp in the Jordan valley: much against
his will he had been ordered out to fight the Adwan ;
an order he successfully obeyed by making his
horsemen empty their muskets every morning across
the Jordan.
MOUTH OF THE JORDAN. 365
Leaving our heavy baggage at Tiberias in charge
of Corporal Phillips, whose name is well known from
the beautiful series of photographs which he has
taken for the Fund, we (Lieutenant Anderson and
self) embarked in one of the three boats ‘which
represent the fleets: which at one time passed to and
fro-over the waters of the Jake. Our crew consisted
of two: Jews and an Arab boy, who was: shortly
afterwards accidentally shot by an English traveller ;
our outfit, the clothes on our back, a tent, a couple of
blankets, and three days’ provisions. A pleasant
breeze was blowing as we started, and all sail set, we
soon made our way to the mouth of Jordan, and
landed on its eastern bank. Here we made an
examination of the ruins which have been described
above, page 342, but soon found that our farther
progress was stopped by marshy ground and creeks
with deep water which ran in from the lake, We
had, therefore, to re-embark and ascend the Jordan
in the boat to a point near Et Tel. At the mouth of
Jordan we found a large number of Bedawin trying
to escape from a body of Turkish horsemen who
were beating up the neighbourhood for conscripts,
and were able to help them across by lending our
at after we had. landed, the water being too deep
‘to ford in consequence of a sudden freshet. This
lucky accident placed us at once on the most friendly
terms with the Bedawin, and enabled us to make ~
our friend the Modir some return for his want of
civility.
Ei Tel lies on the slope of the hills at the point mt Tel.
where they break down to the plain of Butiha;
366 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
there are here a modern Bedawi village and a
number of rude remains; no shafts of columns; or
fragments of sculpture, and with the exception of a
few door lintels no dressed stone ; all is of basalt, and
there is no appearance of its ever having been a
place of any importance. | At the foot of the hill are
two springs, and round these a large number of the
Tel Hum Bedawin who had already escaped across
the river were encamped. We were received with
much kindness, and allowed to go anywhere without
being troubled with even a cry for ‘bakhshish.’ Et
Tel has been identified with Bethsaida Julias, but it:
appears to be too far from the mouth of the Jordan,
and there is no trace of that magnificence with which,
according to Josephus, Julias was built.
eae The plain of Batihah, which lies on the eas’ side
of Jordan, is about two and a half miles:long Ly one
and a half wide. Near the lake it is extremely
swampy, but at the upper end it is like all basaltic
soils, rich and productive. Several streams cross it
on their way to the lake; one, that which comes
down Wady Hajaj, larger than either of ‘those of
Gennesareth. The coast-line is not nearly ‘xo beaw
tiful as that of the western plain, the ba;s being .
larger and not so deep; and there is an absencé*
of that pearly white beach and fringe of oleanders
which gives such » charm to the latter.
Our route from Et Tel lay along the base -of the
hills to the stream of Wady Hajaj, which -e forded,
and shortly afterwards we crossed a smaller stream
issuing from Wady Daly. On the left bank of this
are the ruins of an old town; part of the wall which
PLAIN OF BUTIHA. 367
surrounded it remains, and there are also fragments
of columns, capitals, and some blocks of stone with a
variety of mouldings and ornament—one with a well-
cut scroll of vine-leaves with bunches of grapes; the
material is basalt, and mortar has been used in
building the walls. From this point we pushed on
over the beds of several small wadys to a fine tere-
binth-tree, which is a conspicuous object from the
western shore of the lake, and had been one of our
landmarks for the last three weeks. Under its shade
are several Arab tombs. We remained some time
making observations, and before reaching our tent
on the margin of the lake darkness had set in; the
ground was excessively swampy, and we had con-
stantly to wade up to our knees in water. Next
ig we visited a small grove of palm-trees, and
" ging near it called Kefr Argib, consisting of a
“ide foundations, fragments of columns, and
a broken olive-press. From this point there is a fine
view northward of the Jordan valley and the snow-
capped peak of Hermon. A couple of hundred yards
to the south is a curious oval mound, partly artificial,
ond built in two terraces supported by loose stone
walls; iz the centre is a large tree, and the tomb
of some Jedawi sheikh. Here we turned up the side
of the eaitern hills, and after passing a broad level
terrace will covered with grass, reached the summit
near a dgerted Arab village called Sebba, A short waay
distance Inyond the gorge of Wady. Semakh was os
reached, aid we had to descend its almost precipitous
side by aough goat-track. A very good geological
“jon is exposed at this place, showing the basalt
Khersa,
Gergesa.
868 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
2 . ipl ay Bp
overlying the whitg dimestone, through which run
bends of flint cenglomerate; it appears to contain
no fossils, At. the point.at which we. struck it the
valley is“almost half a mile wide, with a stream
running down the centre; there was good pasturage
_on-each bank, which was covered with the flocks of
a Bedawi camp close by.’ The astonishment of these
people at seeing two Franks appear in the middle of
their tents. without any warning was most amusing ;
but here, as elsewhere amongst the dwellers .in tents,
we experienced nothing but kindness,
On the left hank of Wady Semakh, and at the
point where the hills end and the plain stretches out
towards. the lake, are the ruins of Khersa (Gergesa)}.
The site is enclosed by a wall three feet thick. Tha.
remains are not of much importance, with the excep-_
tion of those of a large rectangular building i,
east and west. On the shore. of the lake are a~
ruined buildings, te which the same name was given
by the Bedawin.. About a mile south of this, the
hills, which everywhere else on the eastern side are
recessed from a half to three quarters of a mile from
the water's edge, approach within forty feet of it:.
they do not terminate abruptly, but there is Pa steep
even slope, which we would identify with the “steep
place ” down which the herd of swine ran tviolently
into the sea, and so were choked, A few, yards off
is a small intermittent hot spring, ;
‘That the meeting of our Lord with «the t yo
demoniacs took place on the eastern shore of che
lake is plain from. Matt. ix. 1, and it i uélly
evident, on an examination of the oround. that th= ~
- KHERSA. Sho
is only one place on that side where the herd of swine
could have run down a steep place into the lake, the
place mentioned above. .The eastern coast has since
been carefully examined by Mr. Macgregor’ in his
- canoe, and he has come to exactly the same conelu-_
sion. A difficulty has arisen with regard to this
locality in -consequence of th@ different readings in
the three Gospels. In Matthew our Saviour is said
to have come into the. country of the Gergesenes ;
in Luke and John into that of the Gadarenes. The
old MSS. do not give any assistance here; but the
similarity of the name Khersa to that of Gergesa
is, as Dr. Thomson points out in the “Land and
the Book,” a strong reason for believing that the
reading of Matthew is correct; and we have also the
testimony of Eusebius and Origen that a village
called Gergesa once existed on the borders of the
lake. Perhaps the discrepancy may be explained by
supposing that Gergesa was under the jurisdiction of
Gadara. ‘There do not appear: to be any rock-liewn
tombs near Khersa; but the demoniacs may possibly
have lived in one of those tombs built above ground
which have been noticed under the héad of Tel Hum,
a form of tomb much more common in Galilee than
has been supposed. I have entered into this question
rather fully, as travellers have alternately asserted
atid denied the existence of a suitable locality on the
eastern shore; and cven such a carefully compiled
k as the “ Dictionary of the Bible” has made the
aordinary blunder of placing the scene of the
icle at Gadara, now Umm Keis, a place from which
swine would have had a hard gallop of two
before reaching the Jake.
2¢
Kalat el Husn.
Gamala.
370 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
After passing the night at the water's edge nearly
opposite Tiberias, we crossed the low ground at the
mouth of Wady Fik, and commenced the ascent to
Kalat el Husn, Gamala. Our way lay up a small
valley on its southern side, and we soon came upon
fragments of the old walls which had rolled down
from above. ‘The position is one of great strength,
the only approach being over a narrow neck of land,
which connects the town with the plateau on the
east; on all other sides there is a rough, almost
precipitous descent to the valleys below, and the rock
has in places been scarped or cut away to give
additional security. Josephus (B. J. iv. 1, 1) com-
pares the shape to that of a camel’s back, the hump
representing the hill on which the town stood ; and
he gives a vivid description of its capture by the
Romans, who, repulsed on one occasion with great
loss, eventually took the place by assault, and put all
the inhabitants to the sword. The space on the
summit was larger than’ we had expected to find it,
and was inclosed by a strong wall, of which there are
many portions left. The town itself is a confused
mass of ruins; at one point there are a few prostrate
columns and capitals which appear to mark the site of
_ a synagogue, at another a large building which may
have been a church, for there are remains which
leave no doubt that the place was occupied after its
destruction by the Romans. The direction of a
main street running from the neck down the centre
of “the hump” can be easily traced. On the neck:
are several broken sarcophagi, and in the cliff on the,
left bank of the valley to the south are a number.
rock-hewn tombs. :
UMM KEIS. 371
It had been our intention from this point to
continue our journey round the lake to Tarichex,
but the sudden storm which I have previously
described (page 340) completely drenched and chilled
us, and we were glad, as evening drew in, to return
to our camp at Tiberias. Lieutenant Anderson,
before the commencement of the storm, had gone off
towards a village, Kefr Harib, on the heights to the
south, and when it broke had been obliged to seck
shelter amongst the fellahin. Whilst in the village
he was well treated, but on leaving he was followed
by several of the men, who attempted to throw him
down and rob him; forfpnately, however, he was
able to draw his revolver; and taking advantage of
the momentary pause which the sight of it caused, he
succeeded in getting over the edge of the hill and
making his way to the boat. From Wady Fik the
distance between the base of the hills and the lake
continually increases till it widens out into the broad
plain of the Jordan Valley.
We were anxious before leaving Tiberias to pay a
visit to the ruins of Umm Keis (Gadara), and finding
it impossible to obtain assistance from the Modir, we
determined to go without escort, and started off one
morning at daylight, followed at a respectful distance
‘by our dragoman and muleteer, who had been
pressed into the service, and looked anything but
happy. We crossed the Jordan at Kerak, having to
swim our horses in consequence of the depth of water
in. the river, and then followed the shore of the lake
to Semakh, a large village of mud huts. Here we
met with fresh difficulties, our two attendants refused
9FvnA YD
372 RECO VERY OF JERUSALEM.
to proceed, and the sheikh of the village wished to
inflict a large escort on us, which we politely
declined. Our only chance was to push on by our-
selves, and trust to finding Gadara from our know-
ledge of its general direction. We had. hardly,
however, gone one hundred yards when our trusty
Nijim rode up to say that a boy would act as guide
if he could get a horse; this was all we wanted, and
dismounting Nijim, we started across the plain
with oar new companion ata hand gallop, which soon
brought us to the mouth of the Jarmuk gorge.
Immediately on entering the valley we were struck
by: the appearance of the stream, which had all the
character of a mountain torrent, rushing in places
through deep chasms in the chalk, and flowing lazily
along in others through small plains, where the
contrast between the bright green of the spring
verdure, the brilliant white of the chalk, and the
sombre hue of the basalt above it was very pleasing.
Hot springs of After travelling some distance we reached the hot
Gadara. . . + a
springs of Gadara, prettily situated on a small open
space on the left bank of the river. The main spring,
which gives off a body of water larger than that of
Tiberias, rises in a basin, partly natural, partly
artificial, whence it flows down to the river. The
temperature is 110°,.and the water being strongly
impregnated with sulphur is extremely unpleasant to
the taste and smell. The medicinal properties of the
spring are highly valued by the Bedawin, who have
made the place a sort of neutral ground, to which
any one can resort when ill without fear of molesta-
tion; we found several men taking a course of hot
UMM KEIS. 373
baths. Close to the spring are the remains of baths,
and all around are the ruins of houses, covering so
large an extent of ground that we were led to believe
this must have been a favourite watering-place, to
which the inhabitants of Gadara resorted when the
driving wind and rain of winter made the plateau
above uncomfortable.
“We now forded the Jarmuk, the water running Umm Keis.
strong over a rough slippery bottom and rising.up © eet
to the horses’ bellies, and ascended the steep face of
the hill by a Bedawi track which led directly: to
Umm Keis. On reaching the summit we found
ourselves in front of the eastern theatre, the form of
which is perfect, though the upper part has fallen
down and covered the seats with stones. A few
yards to the east of this is the large cemetery, which
forms one of the most peculiar features of the place ;
there are both rock-hewn tombs and sarcophagi; the
former are cut in the limestone, without any attempt
at concealment. A flight of steps leads down to a
small court, from which two or three doors give
access to the tomb chambers; the doors are of stone,
and many of them are still almost perfect. These
tombs are now occupied by fellahin, who bear rather
a bad character, but we seemed to attract little
attention. There are a large number of sarcophagi,
ranged in two rows, one on either side of the great
military road, which after passing through the city
went eastwards. The sarcophagi are all of basalt,
and the universal use of this material, which though
more enduring does not take such a fine polish as the
limestone on which they rest, can only be accounted
374 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
for by a caprice of fashion. The best general view of
the ruins is from the eastern theatre, from which the
western and larger theatre is about three hundred yards
distant. This building is inan almost perfect state of
preservation, and were it not for a little rubbish on
the floor we might imagine that the earthquake,
which appears to have ruined the city, was an affair
of yesterday. The seats, which are very comfortable,
appear to have left the mason’s hands but a few
hours, so fresh and sharp are the mouldings. In the
vaults of the passages and vomitories hardly a stone
is out of place, and they are so wide and lofty that
we rode through them with ease. ‘Ihe approach to
the theatre must have been extremely grazid, passing
from the main street over a grand platform, on each
side of which were columns with Corinthian capitals.
The main street running east. and west through
the city’can be easily followed. The basalt pavement
is in places quite perfect, and retains traces of the
marks of chariot wheels; along each side of the road
lie a row of columns just as they fell. There are
many other buildings towards the west, and a modern
cemetery, said to be the favourite burying-place of
the Beni Sakr Bedawin. A short ride westwards
from the city brought us to the brow of the hill over
the Jordan Valley, from whence there is a magnificent
view of the lake district, and also over the eastern
plateau, seamed with the deep gorges of the Jarmuk
and its tributaries. We were particularly struck
with the appearance of the Jordan Valley, over which
far and wide was spread a bright green carpet of turf,
a sight we had not seen before in Palestine. On
SITE OF CAPERNAUM. 875
our way down we came several times upon the old
Roman road to Beisan (Scythopolis), and after
crossing the Jarmuk by a deep ford reached Semakh
as the sun was going down. We found our two
men anxiously looking out for us, and were much
“amused at the change in their manner on the way
home; there was no hanging back now, they pushed
on in front, and as we approached Tiberias Nijim
became greatly excited, firing off his gun, and telling
every one he met how bravely he had taken his
“ Hawdjahs” to Umm Keis, and how, after innume-
rable perils, he had brought them back again in
“safety.
CAPERNAUM, BETHSAJDA, CHORAZIN.
I now pass to an examination of the sites of the
three cities, Capernaum, Bethsaida, Chorazin, and
may at once state that no inscription has yet been
found which enables us to say with certainty where
any of them stood. Many facts have, however,
been lately discovered, or more prominently brought
forward, which seem to throw some gleams of kght
on what has hitherto been involved in such darkness
I allude especially to the identification of the spring
at Et Tabigah with the fountain of Capharnaum,
mentioned by Josephus; the extent and importance
of the ruins at Kerazeb, and the different aspect which
our Lord’s journey across the lake, after feeding the
five thousand, assumes in the Sinaitic version of the
Gospels. For this last information, and much more, I
am indebted -to the Tauchnita edition of the New
376 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
Testament, a2 book which should be in the hands of -
all who study their Bible.
The sources from which it is possible to obtain any
clue to the sites of the cities are—I. Josephus ;
II. The Bible; aud III. Tradition, as represented by
writers before the commencement of the Crusades.
I place Josephus first, as his description of Caper-
naum is fuller than that contained in the Bible.
{. Josephus states (Vit. 71) that, hurt by a fall
from his horse in a skirmish near Julias, on the
banks of the Jordan, he was carried to a village
called Capharnome; that he remained there that
day, and was removed during the night to Tarichex.
There may have been many reasons why he should
not have been taken to Julias, then in his possession,
but rather carried to the next nearest town on the
shore of the lake, whence he could take ship to
Tarichee; for it can hardly be supposed that
having the command of the lake Josephus would
make the journey by land. Travelling westwards from
the Jordan the first place one comes to is Tel Hum.
With this must be compared the account which
Josephus gives of the plain or district of Genne-
sareth. After describing its wOnderful fertility -he
goes on to say that it was watered thoroughout—!
such seems to be the force of taptera—by a fertis
lizing fountain called Capharnaum, which some held
to be a vein of the-Nile, as it contained the fish
called -Coracinus, also found.in the lake near
Alexandria. He gives the extent of this district
along the border of the lake as thirty furlongs, a
distance which agrees almost exactly with that from
SITE OF CAPERNAUM. 877
Et Tabigah to Mejdel; and I take it for granted
that this district, or at any rate the plain of
Ghuweir from Khan Minyeh to Mejdel, is Genne-
sareth.* It seems to me that there must have been
something remarkable about this fountain of Caphar-
naum which called for notice; and on comparing
the description of Josephus with what is known of
the ground, we find that there is nothing peculiar
about the Round Fountain, or Ain et ‘Tin, whilst
there is at Et Tabigah a large spring, the water of
which was raised by artificial means, and carried
across the low ground and round the cliff of Khan
Minyeh by a striking piece of engineering at a
sufficient altitude to irrigate the whole plain of
Ghuweir from end to end. Had the Round Fountain
ever watered the plain there must have been some
‘traces left of the aqueducts which conveyed the
water; nothing of this kind could, however, be seen.
The supply of water from this spring is now not
sufficient for irrigation, and the land close to it is
irrigated by water brought from the streams which
run down Wadys Hamam and Rubudiyeh. It may
be said that the volume of water was formerly
greater ; but it is hardly probable that, if such had
been the case, the labour and expense of making the
aqueduct from Et Tabigah would have been incurred.
As to Ain et Tin it is a small weak spring, and
could never have irrigated anything. The next
* IT am aware of the view put forward by Dr. Tregelles and
Mr. Thrupp that the Batihah is Gennesareth, but I think their
arguments are not.sufficiontly forcible to disturb the claims of the
plain of El Ghuweir.
378 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
question is that of the presence of ihe Coracinus, on
which Dr, Tristram lays so much stress in his
endeavour to fix the site of Capernaum. He
obtained several specimens from the Round Fountain,
and one from the lake near Tiberias. That the fish
lives in the lake there can be little doubt; and there
is no reason why it should not have lived at one
time in the spring at Et Tabigah ; the water is not
too hot, for the temperature is only 863°; not greater
than the shade temperature of the lake district in
summer, or than that of the Round Fountain would
be at that time of year. Dr. Tristram found none of
the fish at Et Tabigah ; but his search does not seem
to have been exhaustive, and the disappearance of
the fish might easily be accounted for by the mills
and the aqueducts and dams connected with them,
which now all but close any direct passage from the’
lake to the spring. Under these circumstances, I
think that wherever the town of Capernaum may
have been, the fountain of Capharnaum must be
identified with the spying at Et Tabigah.
Josephus also gives some valuable indications as to
the site of Bethsaida. He tells us Bethsaida was a
village, raised to the dignity of a town by Philip,
who changed its name to Julias, and built himself a
tomb there, in which he was afterwards buried with
great pomp. We also gather that it was a town of
Lower Gaulonitis (B. J. ii. 9, 1), that the Jordan
passed by it (B. J. iii, 10, 7), and that it was
situate at the Lake of Gennesareth (Anti. xviii.
2, 1). With this also agrees the account of the
battle with the Romans under Sylla (Vit. 70—72),
SITE OF CAPERNAUM. 879
which requires that Julias should be close to the
Jordan, and not far from its mouth.
II. The Bible does not give much assistance in the
identification of the sites of the three cities. In
Matthew iv. 13, Capernaum is said to be “on the
sea-coast, in the borders of Zabulon and Nepthalim.”
The word used for borders (ra dpa) does not mean
the line of division between the two tribes, but
rather the district occupied by them; and it is used
in this sense in other passages, as “the coasts of
Tyre and Sidon,” “the coasts of Decapolis,” &e.
In addition it is not known where the boundary of
the tribes was; so that this passage only helps us in
so far as it makes Capernaum on the shore of the
Jake. So, also, “the way of the sea” in Isaiah’s
prophecy, quoted in Matthew iv. 15, can only mean
generally the districts in which our Lord passed the
greater portion of the three years of His ministry.
From other passages we gather that Capernaum was
in or near the district of Gennesareth on the west
side of the lake; that it had a synagogue built by a
Roman centurion, which indicates that a detachment
of troops was quartered there ; and that there was a
customs’ station, where dues were gathered ; but this
there may have been, and probably was at all towns
of any size under the Roman occupation. All this
seems to show that Capernaum was of more
importance than either Bethsaida or Chorazin, which
were probably not far distant, from the manner
in. which they are mentioned in connection with it.
We have seen before (page 346) that with the new
and beautiful reading which the Sinaitic and Vatican
380 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
versions give to Matthew. xi. 23 it is hardly possible
to suppose any allusion was made on that occasion to
height of position in the town itself; and here I
may state that the same two versions enable us to
settle a point which has been doubted by some
writers, that the Capernaum of the Bible and
Capharnaum of Josephus are the same. In every
passage in which the word occurs these give it,
without exception, in the form Capharnaum. I now
come to the details contained in the accounts given
in the three Gospels of the feeding of the five
thousand, and our Lord’s journey across the lake
afterwards, and propose examining them with the
new light which the Sinaitic version throws on them.
The first point to decide is where the miracle took .
place. Matthew states that our Lord departed by
ship to a desert (that is unfrequented) place ; so also
Mark: John adds that He went up a mountain;
and Luke says that the place belonged to the city
called Bethsaida. This: last allusion has induced all
writers, up to the present day, to place the scene of
the miracle on the eastern side of the lake, not far
from the supposed site of Bethsaida Julias. On
turning, however, to the Sinaitic version we find that
the words “belonging éo a city called Bethsaida”
are omitted; and in the same version we havi
remarkable reading of John vi. 23. Instead of
“Howbeit there came other boats from Tiberias
nigh unto the place where they did eat bread,” as in
the Authorized Version, we read, “ When therefore
the boats came from Tiberias, which was nigh unto
where they did also eat bread.” Adopting these
FEEDING OF THE FIVE THOUSAND. 381
readings we arrive at the conclusion that the place
was near Tiberias, and had no connection with
Bethsaida; a result which is in striking accordance
with the tradition of -Arculf that it was on the
grassy plain behind Ain Barideh, It has unfor-
tunately happened that the sites of many Biblical
events have for convenience been transferred to
other places where the events could not possibly
have taken place, as the scene of the destruction of
the swine from the eastern shore of the lake to Khan
Minyeh, the Cliff of the Precipitation from Nazareth
to a hill over the plain of Esdraelon, and many other
_ cases which are familiar to all who have travelled in
Palestine. Was this the case with the scene of the
feeding of the five thousand? When we consider
that Arculf visited the country at the end of the
seventh century, little morc than fifty years after the
Muhammedan invasion; that shortly before that
invasion, and possibly after it—for the first con-
querors do not seem to have persecuted the Christians
to any great extent—not only was Gadara a large
and flourishing city (a bishop of Gadara is men-
tioned in 536), but the Hauran was inhabited by the
remarkable race of Christians (Japanides) who built
the stone houses, we cannot help coming to the
penclusion that a place of such interest must have
been well known at that time; and that there could
then have been no motive, such as arose afterwards,
for transferring the tradition from the eastern to the
western shore of the lake had the miracle been
performed on the former.
With regard io the voyage home, Matthew says
Capernnum
and Beth-
aaida,
382 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
the disciples were directed to go before to “the other
side,” and that they came “into the land of Genne-
sareth ;” Mark, “to go to the other side before unto
Bethsaida,” and that they came “into the land of
Gennesareth ;” and John informs us that they “ went
over the sea toward Capernaum,” and that after the
storm “ immediately the ship was at the land whither
they went.” It is perhaps impossible to reconcile
these passages exactly; Lut a glance at the map will
show that, taking Ain Barideh as the starting-point,
Tel Hum and the mouth of the Jordan are much in
the same direction. The expression, going over “to
the other side” might be very well used for a passage
across the water in front of Gennesareth, and the
force of the storm may have obliged them to land at
Et Tabigah or Khan Minyeh; it would not in this
case be necessary to suppose that there were two
Bethsaidas.
In John it is said the storm overtook the boat
after they had rowed twenty-five or thirty furlongs ;
in the other Gospels it is said to have been in the
midst of the sea: this certainly shows that it was
some distance from land, for the expression “imme-
diately ” in John appears only to mean that, when
the storm ceased the rowers had no further difficulty,
not that the boat was by a miracle brought instan-
taneously to shore. Taking a mean of the distance
given by John, we get about three and a half miles;
and if this is measured from Ain Baridgh towards
Tel Hum, it would leave the boat still some distance
from the land.
There may be many objections to this view, which
SITE OF THE THREE CITIES. 383
is put forward for the sake of drawing attention to
the great difficulty experienced in fixing the point
from which the boat started, and this being uncertain,
it is of course impossible to draw any correct conclu-
sion as to the site of Capernaum from the narrative.
TI{. The notices contained in the works of the
oldest writers appear to place Capernaum at Tel
Hum, Bethsaida at the mouth of Jordan, and Cho-
razin at Kerazeh. Eusebius and Jerome merely
mention that the three cities were on the shore of the
lake, which need not imply that they were at the
water’s edge; Jerome adds that Chorazin was two
miles from Capernaum, which agrees with the dis-
‘tance of Kerazeh from Tel Hum. Epiphanius
mentions that in the reign of Constantine a Jewish
‘Christian obtained permission to build a church at
Capernaum, then inhabited by Jews; and Antoninus
in the sixth century says that he visited Capernaum
and found there a Basilica, including the house of
Peter. {tis hardly probable that this building can
have entirely disappeared; and as only one im-
portant ruin, that at Tel Hum, has yet been found
north of the lake, we must hold it to be the church
mentioned by Antoninus and Epiphanius: till another
is discovered.
The next account is that of Arculf, a French
bishop, who visited Palestine towards the close of
the seventh century. He says that “those who
wish to go from Jerusalem to Capernaum take the
direct way by Tiberias, and from thénce, along the
Sea of Gennesareth, to the place where the loaves
were blessed, from which Capernaum is at no great
384 “ RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
distance.” Arculf saw this place from a neighbour-
‘ing hill, and observed that “it has no walls, but lies
on a narrow piece of ground between the mountain
and the lake. .On the shore towards the’ cast, ‘it
extends a long way, having the mountain on the
north arid. the water on the south.” As we have
seen above, the place where the loaves were blessed
is Ain Barideh, and the “neighbouting hill” is pro-
bably one of the hills above it. °
As we looked down from these heights on the
northern shore of the lake, the hills appeared to rise
uniformly and rapidly from the water’s edge; the
little cliff at Khan Minyeh stood out prominently,
but a-town at this point could not have been
described. as lying east. and west along a narrow-
piece of ground between.the mountain and the lake.
The description would apply better to a, town at
Kt Tabigah or Tel Hum. Arculf says that Caper-
naunr had no walls; whilst the ruins at Khan Min-
yeh appear to have been surrounded by one, and
they are moreover confined to a limited area instead
of stretching along the oe of the lake as those at
Tel Hum do.
The only other traveller who visited the country
before the Crusades and has left an account of his
journey is Willibald (a.p. 722). He says: “And
thence (from Tiberias) they went round the sea, and
by the village of Magdalum to the village of Caper-
naum, where our Lord raised the prince’s daughter.
‘Here was a house and a great wall, which the people
of the place told them was the residence of Zebedeus
and his sons John and James. And thence they
SITE OF {HE THREE CITIES. BRB
went to : Bethmida: the festdaiien of Patch and
Andrew, where.there is now a church on the site of
their house. They remained there that night, and
next morning ‘went, to Choraziu, where our Lord
healed the demoniac, and sent the devil into a herd
of. swine. Here was a church of the Christians.’
They afterwards went on to the sources of the Jordan’
tat Banias. Here we at onee-sec. that Willibald,
whose account was written after his return home,
has confuged Chorazin with Gergesa; and we may
suppose either that he visited Capernaum. Bethsaida,
and Gergesa, or Capernaum, Bethsaida, and Chorazin.
In the’ latter case, if the towns were respectively at
Tel Hum, the mouth of Jordan, and Kerazeh, he -
would naturally. visit them in the order in which,
they are mentioned, and then strike the Roman road
to the north above Kerazeh ; for if he had gone from
Tel Hum to Kerazch, and then to the mouth of the
Jordan, he would have had to retrace his steps, there
being no regular road up the Valley of the Jordan.
Tn conclusion, I would briefly call attention to the-,
three ancient sites still existing on the northern
shore of the lake, which undoubtedly represent
Capernaum, Chorazin, and the Galilean: Bethsaida—
if there were two places of that name, for Bethsaida
Julias must have been close to the Jordan, At
Kerazeh, a name strikingly similar to Chorazin,
‘ there are extensive ruins, including those of a Jewish
synagogue. At Tel Hum there are also extensive
ruins, a regular cemetery, and a remarkable Jewish
synagogue, built of limestone brought from a distance,
and pagtly inclosed by a later building of the same
.2D
386 “RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM:
material. The name Tel Hum has also been con-
sidered a relic-of the original Hebrew, Tel taking the
place of Caphar, or Kefr.* At Khan Minyeh there
are certainly the ruins of a town, but; as far as we
could judge, they appeared to be comparatively
modern, and not to contain the remains of any im-
portant building. In addition, they cover a much
smaller extent of ground than those of Tel. Hum or
Kerazeh.
I have omitted touching on three points which
may be considered of some importance. The Roman
road from Tiberias to Damascus certainly left the
lake at Khan Minyeh, and struck up over the hills
to Khan Jubb Yusuf; and if Capernaum was situated
on this it would at once decide the question in favour
of Klian Minyeh; but there is no direct evidence
that the road ran through the town. An objection
urged against ‘l'el Hum is that it has no harbours or
places.where boats could lie, and that there must
have been something of the sort at Capernaum : the
simple answer to this is that there are the ruins of a
town nearly as large as Tiberias on the shore of the
lake, without any harbours, and if they are not those
of: Capernaum it is difficult to say what they are.
Those who maintain that Et Tabigah or Khan Min-
yeh were the sites of important towns explain the
absence of dressed stone, columns, capitals, carved
* A deserted site or mound marking ruins is generally called
“Tel,” whilst the Arabs apply the term “Kefr” to an inhabited
village ; it also often happens that the final syllable in old names
‘is alone preserved, as, for example, Achzib becomes Zib. Kefr or
_Caphar-na-hum would by a change of this kind naturally become
Tel Him.
CLEE. OF THE THREE crrtEs. 387.
stone, &e., by saying that it ‘haa all been: carried
away to build Tiberias. They forget, however, that
the people of Tiberias have within easy ‘Teach
amongst the ruins of the old town enough material
to build their houses twice over, without crossing
the lake for it, -A similar report was current ~
with regard to the synagogue at Tel Hum; but
we could not find any trace of the blocks in the
houses at Tiberias. We afterwards heard that some
“df them had been burnt for lime at Tel Hum, and
conveyed-in that state to Tiberias.
It is very desirable that extensive excavations
should be made both at Khan Minyeh and Tel Hum,
as, until this is done, it is impossible to say with
certainty which is Capernaum. I think, however,
in the present ‘state of our knowledge, the evidence
is in favour of the latter place, and I would place
Chorazin at Kerazeh, Bethsaida Julias at the mouth
of the Jordan, Capernaum at Tel Hum, and the
Galilean Bethsaida, if there were one distinct from
Julias, at Khan Minyeh.
388 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
THE ARCHITECTURAL REMAINS OF
PALESTINE.
BY 8, PHENE SPIERS, A.PLB.
Trrrn is no phase of the results obtained in the
exploration of Palestine likely to prove of more value
than that which tends to elucidate the history of
architecture in that country. The great difficulties
attending all travelling in the East have hitherto
caused the notes and records on the monuments which
abound there, to be of too slight a nature to enable
us to determine with any degree of accuracy either
their date or their style; and although the works of
‘Dawkins and Wood, published in 1753, and of Cassas,
in 1799, on the ruins of Palmyra and Baalbec, ought,
by the great beauty and richness of the monuments
therein delineated, to have encouraged others to follow
in the same path, till within the last few years the
field has been entirely neglected. We hail therefore
with pleasure the drawings and photographs published
by the Palestine Exploration Fund, under the direc-
tion of Captain Warren, of the Ordnance Survey,
under Captain Wilson, and, among other works, those
by M. De Vogiié on Jerusalem and Central Syria.
ARCHITECTURE OF PALESTINE. 389
To the ‘photographs eapocully: which now tome a
very valuable series, we are indebted for the most faith-
ful record hitherto obtained of the masonry and
sculpturesque decorations of Syrian architecture ; and
we cannot but feel that, in conjunction with historical
records and inscriptions, they will prove to be of the
greatest assistance in fixing a date and an origin to
all the architectural remains in Palestine.
The chief works of interest which have been under-
taken, and on which we propose now to make a few
remarks are, Ist, the careful examination down to
the foundation of the enclosing walls. of Haram-esh-
Shereef, the site of the ancient Temple of Jerusalem ;
2nd, the small temples in Ceele-Syria and other
Roman buildings at Baalbeec, Damascus, and Jerash ;
and, bee the Jewish synagogues and tombs in
The results of the excavations down to the founda-
tions of the Haram wall—in some cases 80 feet below
the present surface of the ground—although astound-
ing us by the stupendous nature and extent of the
masonry, do not lead'to any more definite conclusions,
as regards the architectural style of the Jewish nation,
than can be learnt by those portions hitherto exposed
to view. It is scarcely necessary to point out that
constructive masonry alone, without any architectural
features, is not sufficient to constitute a style, and
that its nature can only assist us to form conclusions
as to the race of people by whom it was worked.
Mr. Deutsch’s* discovery of Phoenician characters,
similar to those on the walls of ancient Sidon, enables
* Quarterly Statement. No. If., p. 35. Palestine Exploration
y P ) om
Fund.
390° : RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
us to ascribe the execution of the Haram wall to that
- race; but for whom they worked, or at what period,
remains still an open question.
The peculiarity of the masonry of the enclosing
wall of the Haram-esh-Shereef is the sunken face or
groove, varying in width and depth, forming a border
worked round the face of each stone. The earliest
dated example of such work is found in the walls
of Passargade, erécted by Cyrus in the sixth century
B.0.; @ similar sunken face is found in the best
Greek work, and in Rome and Pompeii; in later
days it seems to have been very constantly introduced
by the Arabs ‘in the walls of their towns and citadels.
It is not found in Egypt, and was rarely employed
by the Goths,
A clear distinction should here be drawn between
this sunken face and the ordinary bevel, which exists
more particularly in masonry of the Florentine and
Italian Renaissance periods. Other instances of this
sunken face of early date in Palestine are found in
the mosque at Hebron, the Propylea at Baalbec,
the palace at Arak-el-Emir, and other places. The
sunken face of the stone varies in width from 2 to 5
inches, and is always finely chiselled. The central face
of the stone varies considerably in finish ; sometimes
being left in “ Jossage,” or, as we call it, “ rusticated,”
sometimes axed or roughly chiselled, and sometimes
hammer-dressed. At Hebron and Arak-el-Emir it is
hammer-dressed or finely chiselled all over, at
Baalbec roughly chiselled, and in the Haram wall
all three kinds of work are found.*
* Quarterly Statement. No. V., p. 193. Palestine Exploration
Fand. -
THE JEWISH BEVEL: 391
The object of this sunken face was probably either
to assist the workmen in obtaining a finer joint, or
else to run lesg risk of chipping of the arrises of the
stone when finishing the work. It is customary now
to work round the face of a stone with a chisel first,
leaving the centre to be hammer-dressed or finished
afterwards; and that would seem to have been the
original object in view with this Jewish masonry.
The central face, however, never seems to have been
worked down to the same plane as the sunken face,
but left as an ornamental feature.
Captain Warren has noticed in one of the temples
of Cole-Syriaa small bevelled edge at 45° in addition
to the sunken face; this bevelled groove, however,
we believe to be an exception to the general rule,
and, although an additional precaution against the
chipping of the arris, would destroy the breadth of
the masonry, and Jook like a coarse joint. The
masonry of the Haram wall is laid in courses of
various heights, with a precision and fineness of joint
surpassed only by the early Egyptian work of the
Pyramids, or by Greek work. In his description of
the methods employed to obtain this fine joint in the
latter, Mr. Penrose* informs us that the stones, before
being fixed, were rubbed backwards and forwards on
the course immediately beneath, and that the ancones,
or projecting bosses on the face of the stone, gave the
masons a hold on them. In many cases these bosses
are still left on unfinished Greek work ; and we find
similar features on the Haram wall, though the
immense size of some of the blocks would in the latter
* Penrose’s “Principles of Athenian Architceture.”
392 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
case cause us to doubt whether such a working of
them were possible.
The temples of Coele-Syria delineated and described
by Captain Warren* form a valuable addition to our
store of knowledge, because, although they are men-
tioned and described by Burckhardt and other tra-
vellers, no series of drawings has before been published
‘of them. These temples are found in the country
which lies between Baalbec, Tyre, and Damascus; they
all date from the period of the Roman domination, and
although more debased in style than the remains of
Baalbec and Palmyra, have several peculiarities of
interest about them, The greater number are Ionic ;
and this is curious, because, with the exception of
four semi-detached columns at Palmyra, neither this
town nor Baalbec possesses any temple of this order,
It is possible that the absence of sculpture and the
greater simplicity of the Ionic order may have led to
its adoption, for the carved work in the capitals is poor
in the extreme, and the mouldings, though profuse in
number, have no carved ornament on them.
All the temples of Cale-Syria face the east. This
was the universal custom in Greece, though in Rome
it.was frequently departed from. The chief reason
for this. orientation would seem to have been, that
the rising sun should cast its first rays on the statue
of the god inside the Sanctuary. Professor Cockerell,
in his work on the temples of Jupiter at Adgina, and
of Apollo at Basse,} explains that “the orientation
of this latter temple north and south instead of the
* Quarterly Statement, No. V., pp. 183-210.
+ “Temples of Aigina and Basse.” By the late Prof. Cockerell. :
ORIENTATION OF TEMPLES. 393
usual direction of the fronts to the east and west, was
probably due to its position on a narrow ridge, and
to insure its better appearance when seen from the
plains of Messina and the Mediterranean,” and
notices, further, that “it is remarkable (as if in con-
formity with the usual practice in Greece of entering
the temple from the east).that a doorway of scarcely
secondary importance both in magnitude and decora-
tion is placed in the eastern peristyle ; forming an im-
portant entrance into the sacrarium, and receiving the
first’ rays of early dawn upon the image of the deity
within: thus fulfilling, as respects its entrance from
the east, the usual condition of the Grecian temple.”
He remarks also in a note that “the Temple of the
Sun at Palmyra stands north and south, with four
entrances from the east, the principal 32 feet high by
15 wide.”
Whilst in Greece the temples were always placed
away from the crowded thoroughfares of the city,
in Rome we find them in the busiest parts; and hence
their orientation was made subservient to the monu-
mental decoration of the public places in which they
were erected. The Roman being essentially practical
in all-he undertook, was more likely to make as great
display ay he could by turning the entrance portico
where it would best be seen, and where it would
better add to the magnificence of his city, than
sacrifice its effect to a religious. tradition. No rule
of orientation therefore is to be fouud in Rome: - in
Ceele-Syria the ancient tradition seems to have been
kept up, and the temples always built facing the
east.
394 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
Of the twelve temples measured by Captain Warren,
seven are of the Ionic order, two Corinthian, and the
others doubtful. Five of the Ionic order have all
porticoes “ in antis ;” that is, the north and south walls
of the cella are continued beyond the east wall, and
form ante, which, with two columns between; carry
the cornice and pediment, and constitute the éastern
facade. Four other temples, two. Ionie and two Corin-
thian, are prostyle; that is, have porticoes of four
columns in front. All these temples are raised on a
stylobate or podium, varying in height from 5 feet
6 inches to 11 feet. One of the chief. ‘peculiarities in
these. temples, excepting that of Husn Niha, is, that
the mouldings of this stylobate are continued. close
round in front of the portico. Now in all Roma’
temples elsewhere, the stylobate is carried on in front
of the main facade, and forms pedestals as it. were. on
either side, between which are flights of steps leading
to the interior; but here there was apparently no
means of ascent, and we are bound to suppose, either
that the faithful were not admitted into the cella, or
that temporary wooden stairs were provided. as a
means of access.
_ The entrance for the priest was on the south side,
at the western end of the temple, through a door in
the stylobate, which led into the chambers under a
raised dais or platform at the west end, and from.
thence through doors into the cella. Similar raised
platforms are still to be seen at Pompeii, in the
temples of Jupiter and of Isis.
The chambers at the west end of these ierapled are
specially interesting. Some of them are described as .
CHARACTER OF MOULDINGS. 395
vaulted or arched over,* but no sections are given, to
show the nature of the arch or vault. In the Temple
of Thelthatha these chambers are about 7 feet in height,
and are covered with stone landings similar to those
in the: stone houses of Central Syria. In order to
diminish the bearing of these landings, a series of
corbels carry a projecting cornice, on which they rest ;
so that whilst the chamber measures 9 feet in width,
the corbelling out reduces the bearing of each landing
to 4 feet 7 inches. The size of these landings, 9 feet
by 4 feet, and 2 feet 6 inches thick, corresponds to those
_in Central Syria.
* In comparing the’ niouldings of cornices, &., of
these. temples in Coele-Syria with those of Baalbec
‘and Palmyra, we are struck by the total absence of
‘Yarved ornament in the former; whilst, too, the
capitals and cornices show sousiderable ignorance of
Roman work, the mouldings of the bases and of the
stylobate are remarkable for their good contour, which
is almost Greek in feeling.
In the Temple of Ain Hershah, for instance, the
corona of the cornice is carried up the pediment only,
and the first horizontal member of the cornice is
what would be (if so carved) the dentil fascia. In
the Temple of Thelthatha, the cornice is unusually
heavy ; the dentil fascia is not carved, its lower edge
projecting outwards; and in the place of the small
fillet and cyma reversa, usual in the Ionic entablature,
is a huge bead, resembling the bowtell of English
mouldings; the crowning mouldings of the archi-
trave also are clumsy and ineffective, When, how-
* Quarterly Statement. No. V. Palestine Exploration Fund.
396 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
ever, we examine the base or stylobate mouldings of
these two temples, they are not only refined in con-
tour, but good copies of the best type of Roman ex-
amples. There is one peculiarity in three of the tem-
‘ples, viz., Hibbariyeh, Aiha, and Deir-el-Ashayir—
and there is a similar example at Baalbec—in the
stylobate cornice; instead of there being a horizontal
plane above the upper projecting fillet, we find an
ogee or ovolo moulding reversed, carrying back
the projecting mouldings to the face of the pilaster or
wall-base by a raised curve instead of a horizontal.
plane; this is often found in Renaissance, and in-
variably in Gothic work, but never, we believe, in
Greek or Roman. The cushion frieze, rarely if ever
used with the Ionic order, here exists in all the
examples; but it is not carved, as in the Corinthian
examples at Baalbec, Palmyra, and elsewhere; tho
carved ornament, in fact,seems to be confined to the
heads of the doorways, the niches, and capitals of the
columns, and is extremely poor, showing an attempt
to copy Roman work, without sufficient knowledge of
it, or talent to invent anything new. The Corinthian
capitals have only the outline of the leaves (they are
not simply blocked out), and the abacus has no
moulding. The Ionic capitals are just sufficiently
detailed to show they were intended for that order.
In the Temple of Husn Niha, about 5 or 6 feet.
above the base, are two projecting courses of
masonry, the lower one moulded and_ bevelled,
running along the north and south walls, round the
ante, but not continued across the east end. A
similar feature is found in the Temple of Jupiter as
Puan OF Tae TemPtc OF HIBBARIYEH.
Seate. 20 Feet To Owe IncH.zto
= ‘Skercn Or Sanpte OF
Beveiteo Stones.
Restorco Evevation Or Tue Easy Front of THe TEMPLE.co
398 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
Baalbec: it would seem to have been .a “motif”
derived from the customary dado-mouldings in Pom-
peiian interiors, and sometimes round their temples.
As regards the inierior of these temples of Ccele-
Syria, there are no sections which would enable us to
judge of their architecture. From the plans we are
able to ascertain that in Deir-el-Ashayir the walls
were decorated with flat pilasters similar t6 those in
a building, south of Forum, Jerash,* and in Husn
Niha, and Niha with semi-detached columns. The
purpose of the double-engaged columns in the four
corners of these temples was to give a better bearing
to the two ends of the architraves, than is usually
the case when a single column has to receive them ;
this object must not be confounded with that of the
clustered column in English Gothic architecture,
where two or more orders of arches calle to be
carried in parallel planes. —
' In the drawings and photographs of the syna-
gogues of Galilee, described by Captain Wilson,
one cannot fail being ‘struck by their resemblance
in plan, accidental or otherwise, to the palaces of
Persepolis, and to the House of the Forest of
- Lebanon, built by King Solomon—“ rectangular
buildings,” as Captain Wilson describes them: “the
interior divided into five aisles by. four rows of
columns,” recalls precisely similar dispositions to
the two examples above named; the columns, .
however, are of far more sturdy proportions, ayer-
= Photograph. No, 333. Palestine Exploration Fund.
+ Quarterly Statement. No. IL, pp. 37-41. Palestine Explors-
tion Fund.
TeMPLE OF THELTHATHA (Gé&) CALLED ALSO Nesy Sia. Scaue doo
Soutn
I
nage Portion iFom.
ALTAR with
Vayers Bacbw
seem. &
Easr .
aoe
a
NorrHeRN Sipe
I iE |
God
Lever oslinremidn at] East Evo
West Front
PLAN Western Eno
8
Fic.2.
Conpeis In Vautr.
Sy NY Scaue tho
Fie. 3. ELevation.
400 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
”
aging. from 44 to 6 diameters in height. ‘They
carried apparently stone architraves, some of which
we found among the ruins, and the roof was
constructed of wooden beams with rafters and planks
covered with earth, probably similar to the roofs
of modern Arab houses in Syria and Egypt, and
ancient ones also, to judge from the carved imitations
in stone in some of the tombs near the Great
Pyramids. The proximity vf the columns to one
another, and their proportion, are explained by
their having to carry stone architraves; the inter-
columniation, centre to centre of columns, varies
from 3} to 5 diameters: in the Egyptian temples at
Karnak and elsewhere, where the roofs are entirely
in stone, the intercolumniation varies from 24 to 3
diameters; the relative proportion of height to
diameter in both cases being about the.same. The
proportion of the height of these columns to their
‘ diameter is the same as in the examples of Tourmanin,
Serdjilla, and Babouda, of the fifth and sixth
centuries, 4.D., shown in De Vogiié’s work on
Central Syria; and there is a marked resemblante
between all these examples in the capitals and the
mouldings of the bases.
These synagogues are paved with limestone flags;
they cover areas of from 4800 to 2200 square feet,
rather larger than the temples of Ceele-Syria; and
we may suppose that at the time they were built...
they constituted buildings of considerable importance. -
The richness and beauty of their mouldings and of
their carved ornament place them among the finest
examples of Syrian architecture. The two internal
TOMBS. 401
supports at the northern extremity of these syna-
gogues, instead of being simple columns, consist each
of a square pier with semi-engaged columns on two
faces; and this, Captain Wilson remarks, “is invariably
the case in these synagogues.” The object for this
additional strength is not apparent, except that some
special arrangement of the roof for light or ventilation
at this end of the synagogue might have been
required; in the south facades of these synagogues
are small windows. :
The tombs of Galilee have no special architectural
value except so far as regards the decoration of their
external elevations; for here alone are we able to
trace those features which constitute architectural
atyle. As these bear the strongest resemblance in
detail to the decorative features of the Jewish
synagogues, we propose to treat of them together.
Looking through the whole series of photographs
taken for the Palestine Exploration Fund, and
confining our attention to those in which architectural
ornament is detailed, we seem to recognise two
distinct styles of work: the one, rich but debased
Roman work, the other Greek of the bas-empire, or
Byzantine. Examples of the former will be found
in photographs Nos. 5, 12, 24, 44, 45, 263, 322, 326,
327, and 334; of the latter in Nos. 13, 39, 51, 53,
54, 56, 57, 60, 63, 68, 69, 71, 97, 110, 141, 143,
149, 151, 297, 298, and 320.
All those in the first class belong to the large
Roman cities of Baalbec, Damascus, Jerash, and
Amman, where, from the extent and importance of
these places, we may suppose Roman architects and
25
402 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
sculptors of ornament to have been employed. To
this class belongs also the work of the temples
of Coele-Syria, though executed by inferior workmen.
To the second class belongs the architectural orna-
ment of the buildings of the Jewish (?) or Byzantine
style. ;
Except noticing that, in many cases, the “ motifs
de décoration,” such as bunches. of grapes, vine-
leaves, the pot of manna, and one or two other
emblems, have been borrowed from Jewish work, and
treated in the Roman manner, the first class (Roman
work) does not call for any special attention here.
In the second, however, we find the germs of a style
which, whether Jewish or Greek in its origin, ulti-
mately led to the development of the Byzantine
style, as found in the Mosque of St. Sophia, and other
buildings of the same date at Constantinople, in. the
buildings of Central Syria published by De Vogiié
and in the Golden Gateway of the Haram-esh-Shereef
at Jerusalem—the latter a little less pure in -style
than the first, because away from the architectural
centre at Constantinople.
The earliest examples, to judge from their purity
and simplicity of mouldings, would be those of Arak-
el-Emir (297), the date of which we believe is known
—176 3.c.; and the oldest portion of the Mosque
of Damascus (13). Next to these (though from 50
to 100 years later, perhaps) would come the rock-cut
tomb near Shafat (143), the Tombs of the Kings
(illustrated in De Vogiié), the Tombs of the Judges
(141), Tomb of Jehoshaphat (149), and the Tomb of
Ananias (151). This series would bring us down te
BYZANTINE STYLE. 403
the time of Herod, or up to and including the half of
the first century of our era. The synagogues would
all appear to be of a later period, and date from the
third to. the sixth centuries inclusive.
The reason we have for this order is shown in the
gradual gevelopment of the style known as Byzantine,
which can be traced step by step through all these
examples. The archaic and debased periods of any
style are easily distinguished in the treatment of the
architectural ornaments and mouldings. Take, for
instance, the two first-named examples (297 and 13);
no one can fail to see the resemblance between them
and the early Greek work at Pompeii (which, it must
be remembered, is late and slightly debased Greek) ;
the mouldings are similar, and there is the same
crisp character in the carving of the dentils, In the
tomb near Shafat, again, the whole entablature, and
notably the triglyphs and the shallow architrave, is
almost a copy of one at Pompeii (Triangular Forum).
_ Following out the development of this Byzantine
style, however, we recognise the introduction of
features which are not Greek in origin ; such as the
constant representation of the grape and vine-leaves,
of the olive, of a vase, supposed to be the pot of
manna, and of other emblems which may safely be
said to be Jewish. We notice also a change in the
ancient Greek mouldings, which become vigorous
and bold, and a modification of the constructive
features of the classic entablature.
x The sculptured ornament in the tympana of the
‘Tombs of Jehoshaphat (149) and of the Judges (141),
with the acroteria in the latter, is not Jewish, but
252
404 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
debased Greek. The ornament on the architrave
of the Tombs of the Kings is Jewish, but executed
probably by Greek artists, if we may judge from
similarity in the carving to those above mentioned.
There is no reason why Jewish artists should not
have possessed similar powers; but we sheuld not
then have found copies of Greek ornament; for that
the examples in the Tombs of Jehoshaphat and of the
Kings are copied from the foliage in the Greek steles
and elsewhere cannot be denied. M. De Sauley we
believe reverses the order, and holds that the Greeks
copied from the Jews; but no one who has had any
practical acquaintance with the design of architectural
ornament could possibly agree with him in his con-
clusions; the archaic period and decadence of every
style being totally distinct in character. Let us take
an instance: the tombs of Beni Hassan in Egypt and
the tombs of Lydia show the wooden origin of the
dentil moulding, afterwards employed decoratively
by the Greeks; we trace it again in the examples
before mentioned of Arak-el-Emir and Mosque of
Damascus with almost the same purity as in Greek
work. Compare these examples with those in the
Tombs of the Judges (141), or in the head of a niche
of the ruined synagogue at Kerazeh (50), where it is
mixed with a variety of mouldings and ornament
belonging to other orders. It has there become
thoroughly debased, with no trace of its wooden
origin ; or look again at the Tomb of Ananias (151),
‘how the triglyphs and cornice have been changed
from their original type, and have lost all trace of
the distinctive character which they possess when
SYNAGOGUE AT KEFR BIRIM. 405
employed in the Parthenon or other Greek temples.
The continual copying of a conventional feature like
the triglyph is sure, in debased architecture, to lead to
its being employed with quite a different feeliag and.
object from its original type. To reverse the order,
and to agree with M. De Sauley that the Greeks
obtained the triglyph and other conventional orna-
ments from those debased specimens of Jewish art,
could only lead to a complete chaos in the history of
architectural art.
The drawings and photographs of Palestine archi-
tecture are specially interesting, as enabling us to
trace the changes and modifications of the’ original
Greek mouldings—changes which took place prior to
the Roman domination in Syria, and, when cotem-
poraneous, apparently in spite of it, One of the
eurliest examples is found in the doorway of the
Triple Gate in the Haram wall, and others are found
in the tombs before mentioned. As these changes
are gradual, and would take long to detail, we will
proceed at once to the examination of: the ruins of
the synagogue at Kefr Birim, dating probably from
the fifth or sixth century of our era, and which are
specially noted by Captain Wilson as worthy of
remark, They are shown in the photographs
- Nos. 67, 68, and 69.
We find here in the doorway (68) the three
divisions of a classic entablature, viz., architrave,
frieze, and cornice. The architrave (er lintel in
this case, being a doorway) has here acquired a
totally different proportion from a classic example ;
being the main support, it is three times as decp as
106 RECO VERY OF JERUSALEM.
enhae fridas or cornice ; ‘the two latter, in fact, have:
become mere decorative features. The relieving
arch above, always masked and hidden in classic
work, if possible, bas hese “Lecume avorpicd as a
necessary element.of construction, and is accentuated
accordingly by a bold circular arch. The mouldings
of this arch, as well as of the doorway, are vigorous
and effective, showing a remarkable contrast to the
flat planes and reliefs of any Greek example.
There is in this central doorway a noticeable
feature not found in Centrai Syria or Constantinople,
and that is the wide projection of the lintel on either
side of the doorposts, and the extension of the
mouldings on either side. The doorway of the -
Propylea at Athens has the same projection of
lintel and moulding, though not so accentuated as in
this example. The carving on the lintel of the
animals (Paschal lambs?) on each side of a central
flower is also peculiar, and probably Jewish in idea.
The column still standing in front.of this synagogue,
and which formed part of a portico similar to that at
Mezrah (110), shows a great change from classic
work in the sturdy proportions and simplicity of its
capital; the depth of the architrave also shows the
importance given to that constructive feature. As.
similar mouldings of capitals are found in Central
Syria, we should be inclined to class them as: Christian
Greek, and not Jewish, as Captain Wilson would
seem to infer in his description of them.*
Our chief reason for attributing these and other
* Quarterly Statement. No. IL, p. 39. Palestine Exploration
Fund.
CONFUSION ‘OF STYLES. 407
features to the Christian Greeks (Byzantine) rather —
than to the Jews rests on the unmistakable proofs
that the former people developed in Central Syria
and elsewhere a perfectly distinct and homogeneous
style, in which, although we are able to point out the
source of many of: its decorative features, these are
so altered and modified as to have changed their
original character, and assumed a new one. In
Jewish work such is not the case; we find in all
those buildings, such as tombs and synagogues, in
which it may be assumed that the Jew was the pay-
master and. directed the work, a heterogeneous
mixture of all styles without any study in design.
Thus, for instance, in the so-called Tomb of Absalom,
we find an Egyptian cavetto cornice mounted on a
Dorie. entablature, carried by Ionic semi-detached
columns, with corner pilasters of the Graeco-Syrian
type. Inthe Tomb of Zacharias we have an Egyptian
entablature on similar Ionic columns and Greco-
Syrian pilasters. In the Tombs of the Kings we
find three acanthus leaves* performing the duty. of
triglyphs. These and many other.instances, in
which thie original features have been copied in each
case as far as possible, and not worked up and modi-
fied, as in Byzantine work, show clearly that the
Jews had no style of their own, but borrowed on
every side, and made such compositions as we see
often at the present day, when in one single building
the details of many different styles or periods of a.
style are. found jumbled up together without rhyme
"or reason.
* Not palm leaves, as usually described: tho original copy is
found in the centre of the tympanum of the Tomb of Jehoshaphat.
408 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
In any comparison which might be made between
the development of -the Byzantine style in Syria and
of the Romanesque and Gothic styles in Western
Europe, it is curious to notice how, working on the
same principles, though at different periods—the
first arriving at such perfection as was possible
before the Arab invasion ; the second, in consequence
of the civil wars and troubles in Western Europe,
delayed until the eleventh to the fifteenth centuries
—in both styles somewhat similar results were’
arrived at. :
The ‘strong accentuation of all constructive features,
as the architrave, lintel, and arch, and their appro-
priate mouldings—the selection of doorways and
windows as special objects for architectural decora-
tion, no longer to be rendered subordinate or second
in importance to purely ornamental features, such
as columns or pilasters decorating a fagade—and the
dévelopment of a stone vaulted roofof the same
material as the walls, and forming-therefore a cover-
ing in keeping with the latter—in all these elements~
of architectural style, based on the same principles,
though differing in detail and form, we recognise
similar results; both were Christian, and both pro-
gressed hand in hand with the advance of science.
Had the further development of the Byzantine
style, with its magnificent crowning feature, the
dome, been left in Christian instead of Moslem hands,
and allowed the same time and opportunity as we
have witnessed with the Gothic style, there ca
scarcely be any doubt that its results would have, in
grandeur and magnificence, at least equalled, if not
surpassed, the cathedrals of Europe.
IMPORTANCE OF FURTHER RESEARCH. 409
It would scarcely be possible to overrate, therefore,
the value of the publication of all Byzantine archi-
tecture in Syria and elsewhere. There is now, in
this archeological age, when all tradition of style is
gone, a tendency to study the best examples of
ancient art, to learn the principles on which they
were designed, and thus to recover if possible the
lost thread of architectural style. We know of no
field more likely to afford satisfactory results as
regards its exploration than that which is offered
to us in Palestine, where so many relics abound of
what we believe to be a partially developed style.
410 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
THE HAURAN.
BY THE COUNT MELCHIOR DE vodUE*
Amone the lands which are more or less directly
connected with the events recorded in the Scriptures,
there is not one more interesting or less known than
the Hauran. Its riches, both natural and arche-
ological, its retired position, and the manners of its
inhabitants, all combine to render it, above all other
places, worthy of exciting the curiosity of the
traveller; who, when once he has made up his mind
to get over the first difficulty, and_to give up those
comforts which surround the nineteenth - century
pilgrim, is quite sure to be rewarded for his trouble-—
Not only will he find there volcanic features of the —
most singular interest, ruins in the best preservation,
and inscriptions in great numbers, but also scenes of
life and manners which will enable him to penetrate,
more perfectly than in any other part of Palestine,
into the details of pure oriental life. Here there
are no pachas and no consuls: neither passports nor
* The names of places in this “paper are spelt as in Count
de Vogiié’s manuscript. The paper itself is unfinished, wanting
the concluding paragraphs, which were to have been supplied by
‘the author when revising the proofs. Recent events in France have,
as is well known, called for Count do Vogiié’s serviccs with the army,
and his Essay has therefore not received his final revision.
POPULATION. 411
firmans are demanded; and, above all, no theatrical
displays, got up by interested dragomans, for the
amusement of travellers, to create an imaginary Hast
on the beaten roads of Jerusalem and Nazareth.
In these’ regions is found a population which
depends entirely on itself; Druses or Arabs;
nomadic Bedouins or stationary agriculturists ;
brigands or farmers—all, in point of fact, are inde-
pendent; they have their own chiefs, and their
relations are regulated by their reciprocal wants,
their ability, or their vigour. The feudal life, with
its display of individual energy; the pastoral life,
with its adventures; the life of brigandage, with its
dangers, all have their representatives here. In
the absence of any. central government, and of any
regular police, each chief has, individually, to pro-
vide for everything—the administration of the land,
the security of his vassals and himself, the defence
of the country, and the duties of hospitality. These
last are, indeed, largely exercised, though one can
“hardly say that they are entirely disinterested as
regards the European traveller; but I can affirm,
from my own personal experience, that they are
practised with sincerity; when once the symbol
of friendship—the Khoué—has passed between the
sheikh who gives his protection and the Frank who
brings his presents, the latter may sleep at ease; he
has nothing more to fear, even in the midst of
tribes who live by pillage, if he will but agree to .
the conditions of living with his host, and as his
host; of keeping out of local quarrels, and of making
an aceurate acquaintance with the statistics of the
412 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
alliances and enmities of each family. By following
this line of conduct, Mr. Waddington and myself were
enabled to explore the country in every sense; to
visit regions previously unvisited, and reputed in-
accessible, such as the Ledja and the farther voleanoes
of the Safa, and to remain there during the time
necessary for scientific observations; to make
sketches; to copy inscriptions, and even to make
excavations at several important points.*
But before giving the principal results of our
visit, it will be well to define. with some accuracy
the limits of the country over which our journey
extended, and the points at which these regions
touch on the history of the Bible.
The massive block of mountains designated by
European travellers as the Hauran, rises to the
south and south-east of Damascus, out of the great
plain which lies between the desert on the east, and
the mountains of the Jordan on the-west. This mass is
composed of three distinct groups, which we-may
as well call by their native names.
The centre of the whole system is the Jebel Hauran.
This is volcanic in its origin, though without apparent
craters, and is composed of mountains of moderate
elevation and easy gradients, the slopes of which are
covered with wood and cultivation. Tt is the district
of the Druses, whose chief towns are Qennaw..,
Soueida, Schehbah, and Schagga. To the north of
* “Syrie Centrale.” Par le Comte de Vogiié. Paris. DBaudry.
I. Architecture Civile et Religicusc. II. Inscriptions Semitiques.
“Inscriptions Grecques de la Syrie.” Par W. Waddington.
Paris, Firmin Didot. :
THE SAFA. 413
these mountains, and at the foot of the farthest
slopes, close to the city of Schehbah, is a group of
extinct volcanoes, the still open craters of which
have thrown up, at an epoch geologically recent, an
enormous stream of lava, which, in process of cooling,
has: formed the plateau of the Ledja. This latter
is a vast triangle, 22 miles broad by 25 long, entirely
composed of basaltic rocks, which have hardened into
the most picturesque forms; their height is hardly
forty or fifty feet above the level of the plain; but
the thousand clefts which furrow them, the rents of
their lace-like edges, and the broken character’ of
their elevations, render them a natural labyrinth, and
an inextricable haunt for brigands. The Druses,
and, above all, the Soulout Arabs, inhabit this
retreat, which they call Qalat Allah—the Fortress of
God.
To the east of this group is situated another, called
the Safa, the product of a series of formidable
eraters; extending over a length of more than
thirty miles. Here are found the same plateaux of
lava, with its cleft elevations, as in the Ledja; but
the volcanoes are more numerous, and of larger
size. ‘The Safa is occupied by tribes of Bedouins,
among whom it is sufficient to name the Shtayeh
: -dthe Rhey&t. Beyond the Safa begins an immense
‘steppe, called the Hamfd, which stretches as far as
the Euphrates, and forms the Desert of Syria.
The great fertile plain which extends to the east
and the south of the Jebel Hauran is called the
Nougra Hauran.. Its principal town is Bostra ; it is
inhabited by stationary Arabs, and cultivated by the
“414 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
Bedouin. It is bounded on the west by the chain
of mountains which forms the basin of the Jordan.
This chain bears different names: the Djaulan, which
commences on the east slopes of the Anti-Lebanon,
and borders the left bank of the Sea of Galilee, as
far as the river Yarmouk (the Hieromax of the
ancients); the Jebel Ajloun, from the Yarmouk to
the Jabbok ; and lastly the Belg to the south.
The plain situated to the extreme north, between
the point of the Ledja and the Anti-Lebanon, bears
the name of Djeddour. .
The greater part of these names preserve traces of
their ancient appellations; and by the aid of these indi-
cations and of historical information, we can arrive at a
determination of the site of each province. The country
appears in the Bible, at the two extremities of the
Hebrew history—at its début, in connection with the
conquests of Moses and Joshua, and at its close, with
the ambitions and disasters of the Idumazn dynasty.
Of the sovereignties destroyed by Moses, the king-
dom of Bashan was the most important: King Og,
the Amorite, ruled from the Land of Moab te Mount
Hermon. By comparing Deut. iii. 10, Josh. xii. 5,
xili, 11, and. 1 Chron. v. 11—23, it is found that the
northern limit of Bashan, properly so called, was a
line running from east to west, and passing by Edrei
and Salchah. The place of these two cities is perfectly
determined. Mr. Waddington has proved from the
inscriptions that Edrei was the modern Derat, an
important town on the Yarmouk, which commands
the entrance of the mountains of the Ajloun, and of
the Djaulin. Salchah is the modern Salchad, an
KINGDOM OF OG. 415
isolated fortress at the entrance of Jebel Hauran,
and on a winter affluent of the Yarmouk: it is
evident that this line of rivers, formerly much
more. abundant, formed the frontier of Bashan, just
as the Jabbok formed that of the ancient territory
of Moab, and the Arnon that of the later territory
of Moab. These parallel affuents of the Jordan form
natural limits for the local subdivisions. Og pos-
sessed also the mountains of the Jaulin, which were
beyond the limits of Bashan to the north (1 Chron.
v. 23). The half tribe of Manasseh had, in the
division, a part of the land of King Og, that is to
say, the portion of the Nougra which surrounds Bosra,
as far as the Sheriat el Menadire, the beautiful plain
conquered by Moses, and the mountains of the
Djaulin, which enclose the city of refuge; it had
also the half of Jebel Ajloun, the ancient Gilead,
whose fair pasturage and oak forests still justify the
ancient reputation of Bashan.
I do not think that the Hebrews ever passed across
this line, or occupied the Jebel Hauran. No remains
exist in the country to indicate their rule; for
there is no monument to be found there anterior to
the Idumzan dynasty. It was under the reigns of
the Herods and the Agrippas that the Hauran began
an era Gf prosperity which was further developed’
under the Roman empire, and only stopped by the
Mahometan invasion. The geographical divisions of
this epoch are found under the modern nomenclature.
.The Auranitis, properly so called, is the plain of
the Nougra. Batanza is the Jebel Hauran, whose
north-east slopes have preserved the name of
416. RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
Bathaniyeh, The researches of Herr Weitzstein
(“ Hauran und Trachonen,” p. 85) justify this identi-
fication, and prove that the name formerly extended
over the whole Jebel. Trachonitis is the Ledja,
‘and the modern Soulouts are the worthy descendants
of the brigands of Zenodorus. Iturea is Djedour,
augmented by a part of Anti-Lebanon. Gaulanitis
is identical with Jaulin, and its name has never
varied from the most remote times.
It is not my business here to give the history of
these regions during the agitated government of the
little Greco-Oriental dynasties which disputed their
possession. Idumzan princes, Nabathean kings,
Arab chiefs, each ruled in their turn. Monumental
proofs of their reigns are preserved in the inscrip-
tions, King Herod is mentioned on one at Siah.
The two Agrippas, his successors after Philip, are
found cited in at least ten inscriptions; the most
interesting is the fragment of a decree discovered at
Qanatha by Mr. Waddington, and running as
follows :
“King Agrippa, friend of Cesar, and friend of
the Romans, says: ... . of a life like that of the
wild beasts ....I am ignorant how up to the
present time, in many parts of the country, dwelling
in caves. .... nor altogether. ... . 4
It is very much to be regretted that this document
should be so mutilated; it would have given curious:
information on the social state ofthe country ; even
as it is, it confirms the description given by Josephus
of the savage manners of the inhabitants of Tra-—
chonitis, and confirms at the same time the opinion
THE NABATHAIAN PRINCES. 417
that I have put forth, namely, that before the advent
of the Idumzans no monuments at all were erected in
the country. At the. most, they may be looked for
only at the south of the Hauran, towards the frontiers
of the Nabathwan States. That the Nabathxan princes,
from the first century before Christ, hada certain cul-
ture, is proved by their medals, and their monuments
-at Petra. They reigned at Bosra, without doubt,
from 100 B.c. to the Roman conquest in 109 a.p.,
and often pushed their arms as far as Damascus.
The coins and medals which I have collected estab-
lish, during these two hundred years, the succession
of six kings: Harethath (Aretas), Malikou, Obodas,
Harethath-Philodemus (Aretas Gineas), Malkou (Mal-
chus), Dabel (Zabelus). Four of these sovereigns are
mentioned in the inscriptions found at and around
Bostra and Salchad; Malikou, the adversary of
Herod the Great, appears on an altar consecrated
in the eleventh year of his reign. Harethath-Philo-
demus and Malkou are on the gate of an edifice
constructed in the seventeenth year of the reign of
the latter, Dabel on a tomb dated the twenty-
fifth year of his reign. Harethath Philodemus is a
Biblical personage. He it was who held Damascus,
and governed it by an ethnarch at the time of
St. Paul’s escape (4.p. 39); his son Malkou brought
reinforcements to Vespasian during the war against
the Jews ; an assistance which by no means prevented
Dabel from ‘being dethroned by Cornelius Palma,
legate of Trajan, and from seeing his states annexed
to the Roman empire.
The Roman , conquest gave these lands three
2F
“418 RECOVERY. OF JERUSALEM.
centaries of tranquillity, during which a kind of
architectural fever traversed the country from end to
end. The triumph of Christianity added still more
to this ardour for building, and it stopped only with
the approach of Islamism.
This period exhibits the phases of the remarkable
architectural movement which I have studied in its
monuments, and which IT propose here rapidly to
describe.
The most ancient monument of the Hauran isa
great tomb, situated at Soueidah. It is a massive
cube of masonry, decorated with Doric columns, and
formerly surmounted by a pyramid, of which nothing
now remains but the lowest course. A’ bilingual
inscription in Greek and Aramaic teaches us that’ it
was built by a certain Odeynath for his wife, named
Hamrath. The form of the letters and the style of
the architecture announce an epoch near the Christian
era. This Odeynath was, without doubt, a chief of
the Arab tribe of the Beni-Samaideh, which estab-
lished itself in these countries about the same time.
Greek inscriptions, which announce the existence at
Soueidah of a @éAy Lopaéyvay under the Antonines,
authorise this inference. The monument was built
on the unit of the Greek foot; it measures 33 feet at
the base, the half-columns are 15 feet in height, the
entablature 4 feet. The pyramid was originally 14 feet
high, so that the total height, with the two steps,
was 39 feet. The use of unequal numbers will
be remarked, and the predominance of the number 3.
This remark, indeed, is general. In reducing to
Greek measures the dimensions of all the monuments
TEMPLE OF STAR. 419
of Central Syria, we are led to recognise the use of
mystical and conventional numbers; and in tracing
the principal lines of the monuments, it is very
seldom that we cannot establish the employment of
certain geometrical figures, to which the whole of
antiquity has attributed a special virtue; such, for
instance, as the square, the right-angled triangle,
whose sides satisfy the formula 3? + 42 = 5% and
the Egyptian isosceles triangle, whose height is equal
to 4 of the base.
The tomb of Hamrath proves that at the epoch
of the Herods Greek art had taken possession of the
country. But while applying Hellenic methods and
forms, the Syrian artists preserved in certain details
the remembrance of former traditions. This is
proved by the curious temple of Siah.
The temple of Siah is situated near Qennawit, the
ancient. Kanatha, in a picturesque country, at the
summit of a hillock. It is perhaps the most in-
teresting monument of this region. In order, there-
fore, to understand it better, we caused it to be almost
entirely cleared of rubbish. Our researches were
actively conducted during a week by a squad of
Druse labourers, and resulted in the complete exposure
of the fagade, and of the undisturbed approaches to an
ancient temple, a spectacle hitherto new to modern
eyes.
A monumental gate, preceded by steps, opened
upon a large court surrounded by porticoes (dvdn,
atrium), and paved with regular slabs. At the end
rose the temple on a basement of two steps. On the
top of the steps wasa deep xpordos, sustained by two
2 2
420 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
columns, and included between two broad pavilions
of peculiar arrangement. In the centre was the
door of the Sanctuary. The interior of the. temple
was transformed in the middle ages into a fortified
post, and was therefore past examination. The stones
obtained by the demolition of the edifice had been
blocked one beside the other, so as to form a compact
mass, which even our mechanical means would not
enable us to attack. But from the study of the
surrounding débris, and the text of the inscriptions,
we have been able to deduce with certainty the
principal features of the construction.
It is certain that the Sanctuary was of two stories :
if not over the whole surface, at least over the
fagade. .A construction decorated with pilasters
crowned the two pavilions and covered the apovaos.
This disposition is peculiar, and does not exist, to my
knowledge, in any ancient monument. The only
one which offers any resemblance to it is the Temple
of Jerusalem, It is clear ‘from Josephus’s descrip-
tion that the pronaos of the temple built by Herod—
doubtless in remembrance of the Oulam of Solomon,
—was higher than the Sanctuary. For myself, I
cannot but think that there is an evident connection
between these two buildings, constructed at the same
time, and under the influence of the same dynasty (as’
the inscriptions prove). The resemblance is not.
confined to the simultaneous existence of the second
stage, but extends to other essential points—the
monumental gate, recalling “the gate of Nicanor,”
the cloisters of the court, and a well-sculptured vine
branch, which adorns the gate of the Sanctuary,
TEMPLE OF STAH. 421
just. as dhe golden 3 vine did “that of the Temple ‘of
Jerusalem.
The identity of dates is established, as I have
already explained, by inscriptions found during our
. researches, I have already published the texts, and
. have no occasion to reproduce them here: they are
engraved in Aramaic and in Greek, on the bases of
the statues which we discovered ranged under the
mpovaos. They testify that the edifice was built by
two Arabs, namted Maleikath, of whom one was the
grandson of the other, in honour of the god Baal
Samin. Besides this, a statue had been raised to
King Herod; the pedestal which bore if was over-
turned ; the statue broken in pieces; there remained
nothing but the right foot, still adhering to the base, _
on which was engraved the inscription. The image
was evidently overthrown by the early Christians.
Other inscriptions cut upon accessory parts of the
monument mentioned the two kings Agrippa. :
- At the foot of the staps, the altar was found still
existing in its original place: it is a block of stone
decorated on its two faces with two wild goats—an
animal sacred to the Asiatic Venus. The style of the
construction is as strange as its general disposition ;
although built under Greek influence, it has nothing
of the Greek sobriety and good taste, but displays an
accumulation of ornaments, leaves, and fruit, mixed
up with figures of every kind; birds, lizards, locusts,
winged genii, human busts, heads with solar rays,
eagles, and lions, being scattered in profusion over all
the architectural lines. The capitals of the columns
are a very distant imitation of the Corinthian, but
422 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
the elegant Corinthian volute is replaced by a corde
‘tressée, the central flower by a human bust, and the
acanthus leaf by large and coarse foliage. The
bases are yet more singular, being surrounded by
a cincture of foliage, which gives them the appear-
ance of a capital upside down.
All this sculpture is executed in the hard black basalt
of the country, which makes its want of delicacy
still more apparent: the English reader may form
an idea of the style, since one of the heads obtained
in our researches is at present placed in the British
Museum. At Soueideh, a short distance from Siah,
there still exist the remains of a temple of the same
period and the same style: the capitals exhibit the
same winged bust, and the same corde tressée; the
architrave offers the same overcharged lines, and
in examining the bases we found the same foliage.
Here, however, the resemblance stops; the plan of
the temple is that of a Greek peripteral temple,
thereby establishing the trnsition from the strange
style of the Herodian epoch to the more regular
style of the Imperial. In order to seize these differ-
ences and appreciate the progress of style, a few
steps only are necessary. Qennawit is only half
an hour distant from Siah, and this city contains
one of the most complete collections of ruins
conceivable. Here are found two temples of the
Antonines, an Odeum, a Nymphzum, a large basilica
of the fourth century, tombs, cisterns, churches,
private houses, nameless and numberless ruins, all
grouped among the rocks on the two sides of an em-
banked stream. A little farthor. on, at Shahbeh, the
ARCHL TEOTURAL HEATURES. : 423
present fasidende of the pawerfal Sheikh Fares ‘Amer;
and formerly Philippopolis of Arabia—the native
place, as Mr. Waddington has shown, of the Emperor
Philip, and embellished by him—are baths,.a theatre,
temples, and monumental streets, Farther on still, at
Shagga, basilicas, houses, a Roman pretorium, and
sanctuaries of various forms, attest the fertile activity :
of the architects of the Imperial epoch. Everywhere,
in short, in every village, ruins and inscriptions
testify to the same labour, and when, leaving the
mountain, the traveller goes on to Bostra, he may
there contemplate Imperial monuments, amongst them -
an immense theatre, in almost complete preservation,
the imposing effect of which is doubled by the noble
girdle of towers with which the Ayabite Sultans
have surrounded it.
In a rapid sketch like the present, it is of course
impossible for me to describe these interesting
monuments in detail ; I reserve this for the wohinies
on which I am engaged; and to which I beg to
refer the reader. All I can do here is to indicate
rapidly the special characteristics which distinguish
these constructions from those erected in other parts
of the Roman empire. The style of the ornamenta-
tion is nearly the same: the Ionic and Corinthian
orders, the latter especially, with their ordinary
accessories, are nearly exclusively employed ; here,
therefore, there is little to detain us.
The striking feature in the architecture pf the
Hauran is the exclusive use of stone. The country
‘produces no wood, and the only rock which can be ob-
tained is a basalt, very hard and very difficult to work ;
424 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
reduced to this single material, the builders were .
obliged to resort to combinations of arches as a means
ofcovering great spaces. The elementary combina-
tion is the following.
Parallel arches are constructed at a distance
varying from 6 to 10 feet; on these arches are
built walls which are levelled to the same height ;
then from wall to wall are laid slabs, fitting perfectly
and forming the ceiling. When the bearing is
great, or the building more‘ careful than usual,
each levelled arcade is surmounted by a line of
moulded corbels, forming a cornice ; they then sup-
port the slabs on the extremity of the corbels, taking
care to load the centre-so. as to counteract the
leverage. Sometimes the line of the corbels is double,
an upper layer projecting over the lower, so as to
give greater breadth to the cornice. The inscrip-
tions designate this fundamental arcade by the name .
of dys, and the joist, or slab of stone, by that of
otpwryp. It is by the aid of *hese two elements,
the arcade and the slab, that the architects were
ARCHITECTURAL FEATURES. 425
enabled to carry out all their designs, varying
the distance of the arches, their radius, and their
superposition, according to the plan and the resources
at hand. By way of roof they placed a layer of
earth on the slabs which formed the ceiling of the
top story.
The doors are also of stone, with either one or
two. leaves; each leaf is formed of a single slab,
bearing two projections cut from the solid, and
fitting into two sockets, one in the lintel and the other
in the sill, so as to permit the whole to turn easily,
as ona hinge: a great number of these doors exist
still, in situ; the: inscriptions call them évpa, and
often speak of their construction, which was one of
the most difficult operations in their style of archi-
tecture, and one on which the builders were most
disposed to pride themselves. The closets formed in
the inncr walls ‘of the chambers were closed by
similar, smaller, doors. I brought away a specimen,
finely sculptured, of this kind of cabinet work in
stone. The windows were closed either by shutters
of the same kind, or more generally by fixed slabs,
pierced with holes, after some sort of design, more
or less elegant ; and in these openings panes of glass
were doubtless adjusted.
Such are the methods of procedure in the buildings
of the Hauran.. We find them applied to the most
diverse monuments, the basilica, with three naves
and higher galleries, the private house, with re-
ception and residence chambers, stables, outhouses,
public and religious ~‘ifices. For these last, in order
to conform to the traditional Greek temple, certain
426 RECO VER ¥ oF JER USALEM.
modifications in the general plan were necessary.
The fundamental arch, instead of being levelled
horizontally, received on its extrados a pointed pedi-
ment, forming almost a gable, the space between the
gables being occupied by a roof of sloping slabs. As
for the facade, the central intercolumniation being
larger than the others, and exceeding the length of -
‘the architrave, the latter was replaced by an arch,
giving the temple that curious appearance so often
seen’ on Syrian coins.
Lastly, in cases where the architects had to. cover
square or circular spaces, or halls, the purpose or
interior effect of which would have been spoiled by
the multiplication of parallel arcades, - : they had -
recourse to the cupola.
It is well known that the cupola + ‘or. cap -in
masonry is of very ancicnt usage. Under the hemi--
spherical or conoidal form, it is found on the Ninevitish
‘THE KALYBEH OF UMM-EZ-ZEITON. 427
bas-reliefs, From the east it passed over to the west,
and was variously employed by Roman architects
up to the day when, under the Byzantine revival, it —
became the principal element in modern Oriental art.
The radical difference which distinguishes the ancient:
cupola from the Byzantine one is that the former rests
upon a circular drum, while the latter is supported
on a square by means of pendentives, or spherical
triangles. We know that this feature of architecture
was invented in 548 by the architects of St. Sophia,
Anthemius of Tralles and Isidore of Miletus; but
we do not know clearly by what series of tentative
efforts the solution was discovered. The Hauran
gives us several illustrations of these rudimentary
essays. es
The most interesting is that furnished by the
“Kalybeh” of Umm-Ez-Zeittin.
The’ inscriptions designate, under the name iepa
kadbBy, & sort of sanctuary, composed of a cubical
chamber covered by a cupola, open on one side by
a great arcade, and flanked by two wings pierced
with niches; the central arcade is gained by steps ;
brackets fitted in the wall formerly bore statues. It
is difficult to pronounce on the liturgic use of these
chapels; but it is probable that they served to pre-
rve the mystic symbols of the divinity, whether
images or conical stones, avd also to give oracles,
for they generally have a subterranean floor, in
which the interpreter of the divine will could place
himself.
However this may be, the Kalybeh in question,
dated by two inscriptions engraved on the fagade, is
428 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
‘of the seventh year of the Emperor Probus, 282 a.p.
Its cupola is in part preserved, and the system of
construction is perfectly visible. First, the angles of
the square were covered by means of slabs of stone,
so that the space inside was brought to an octagonal
form; then on this octagon a first layer was made by
placing a stone across each of the angles : two layers
laid in the same manner transformed the original
square into a polygon of thirty-two sides, near,
enough, in practice, toa circle to serve as a base for a
hemispherical cupola, constructed of blocks of concrete,
and forming a structure which was supported at all the
points of its lower perimeter, and consequently com-
plied with the ordinary conditions of domed cupolas.
The largest cupola constructed according to this
system is that of the Palace of Shagga, called by °
the Arabs Kaisarieh; it dates, like that of Umm-
Ez-Zeitin, from the third century, but is also in
“ruins,
It is in the Hauran that the most ancient cupolas
applied to the architecture of the Christian churches
are found. St. George of Ezra “ of the year 515,’
the Cathedral of Bosra of the y:ar 512 Pina
in date to those of St. Vitale of Ravenna, anc
St. Sergius of Constantinople, with which, however,
they have some points in common.
The Christian period appears to have been the most
fertile in buildings of every kind—at least, it has
left the greatest number of monuments, The larger
number of the private houses and tombs still standing
date from this period, as the inscriptions testify.
Another argument in favour of this opinion is, that
THE CHRISTIAN PERIOD. 429
the greater part of the pagan inscriptions are not
in situ, but are generally found in later buildings.
Christianity penetrated very early into these
regions, and it counted numerous adepts, organised
in hierarchic order, when Constantine gave it peace ;
and accordingly from the second half of the fourth
century inscriptions are found pointing out the exist-
ence of a strong and active Christian society, build-
ing houses, porticoes, cisterns, hostelries, basilicas,
churches, tombs, &¢., in honour of the Holy Trinity,
and of the saints who were most widely worshipped
—St. George, the Martyrs Sergius and Bacchus,
St. Elias, St. Theodore, and, lastly, the Virgin
Theotokos. The hierarchy which conducted the
building and governed the faithful is also complete.
We find in a text of the year 354, the names of
an archimandrite, a priest, a deacon, a steward; and
at Shagga, about the same period, is a bishop
named Tiberinus, who transformed a pagan kalybeh
into a church, and dedicated it to St. George and
his companion martyrs—dywv deOAopspwv papripwy
; peseiev kal tov oP GUT@ ayo.
me of the causes which most favoured this
_ Shristian de~ “pment was the conversion of the prin-
cipal tribes which had migrated from Arabia. We
know that from the first century of our era a current
of migration set in steadily towards the north from
the most retired parts of the Arabian peninsula. It
was the precursor of the great Mahomedan in-
vasion; but, far from having the disastrous effects
of the latter, it was, on the contrary, very salutary ;
and it shows what might have been the destiny of
430 RECO VERY OF JERUSALEM.
the country but for the fatal division created by the
preachers of Mahomet. : ,
The most important of these was the great Sabxan
migration, which left the Yemen after the rupture
of the dykes at Mareb, towards the year 104 of the
Christian era. The tribe of the Jifnides established
itself in Central Syria, on the confines of the
Roman territories, and introduced into these regions
its own habits of civilisation. The tribe lived on
friendly terms with the empire, and founded the
kingdom of Ghassan, After becoming Christian,
the kings of Ghassan extended their influence as far
as the Hauran. Mr. Waddington found at El Hit an
inscription of the King Al-Moundhir, dated in the
year 578. He bears the Greek title of patrician,
testifying to his alliance with the court of Byzantium.
Everything leads us to believe that this dynasty
would have been the instrument of the gradual
evangelisation of the Arabs, had it not been rudely
destroyed by the Mussulman invasion,
But it is in the Safa that we find the most
numerous traces of the Sabean tribes,
T have already explained thaf"{le Safa a
voleanic spot situated in the Ded “Stwo days’
journey east of the Jebel Hauran. I visited it
with Mr. Waddington; and the semembrance of
the excursion remains with me as perhaps the most
curious of all my travelling recollections, Escorted
by a troop of fifty Druses on horseback, in all their
military splendour, we went from tent to tent,
leading the life of the Desert, without the ad-
mixture of a single European element; we pene-
ER ROHEBEI. 431
trated farther east than any previous traveller, and
were fortunate enough to combine the interest of our
archeological researches with the most picturesque
scenery, and the most novel details of manners and
customs. ;
. The very centre of the Safa is oceupied by a low
plain, about twelve .miles long by three broad,
named Er Rohebeh. The water of the winter rains
has deposited a layer of tolerably fertile soil; and
in the spring the whole plain is covered with a
vigorous vegetation, the verdure of which presents‘a
striking contrast with the naked and desolate aspect
of the rocky mountains round it. We reached this
plain after a difficult journey of four days, under
a burning sun, across rugged rocks and lava slopes.
It was an April evening. As far as the eye could
reach extended a carpet of verdure, framed, as it
were, in the black irregular lines of the lava; great
pools of water, not yet absorbed by the sun, spread
freshness and life around; the tents of the Arabs
speckled the plain with brown spots; we rode through
grass which reached to the horses’ bellies; and by
degrees, as we approached, scenes of pastoral life
displayed tkyeélelves to our eyes; the sheep came
home bleating} the camels disported themselves
clumsily round: the tents; bands of plunderers
returned from a distant ghazzou, while long flights
of desert partridges filled the air with their shrill
cries as they joyfully sought their evening shelter.
The calm of nature and the serenity of these pictures,
might almost have persuaded us of the pacific occu-
pations of our hosts, had not the sight of arms and
432 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM
military preparations reminded us tha, the strubgle
for water has been, since the days of Abraham and
Lot, the. fatal condition of desert life. But we had
not conie so far simply to contemplate scenes of
nature; and the next day we set to work at the
archeological monuments in the place. The most
interesting is a ruin which the Arabs call Kharbet-el-
beida, or; The White Ruin—though it is entirely con- -
structed of black lava. It is situated on the lowest
slopes of a lava torrent from a neighbouring crater,
and overlooks the whole plain. It is an old castle, -
surrounded by a square enclosure, with turrets at the
angles. Its construction shows that it never had
any military importance, and it was probably nothing
more than the spring retreat of some prince of”
Ghassan. “The style of the ornamentation, quite
different to what we have seen in the Hauran, and
marked by a much more oriental stamp, goes. to
strengthen this impression. The castle, properly
so called, is overthrown ; but among the débris there
are a certain number of sculptured stones; the
entrance door was richly ornamented; scrolls of flat
foliage and flowers in a very peculiar style, encom-
. passing a frieze of animals, among which may be
distinguished lions, gazelles, an elephant—all pgove
the southern origin of the sculptor. Other fragments
show details borrowed from the Byzantine—geo-
metrical combinations and original designs all leading
to a similar conclusion.
_ Opposite the castle, on the other side of the Ruhbeh,
are the ruins ofa little church, built in the style of the
Hauran; the Arabs still call it E] Knése (Ecclesia),
* TUMULL 438
Aik ~-
Everything leads ‘to the belief that we are here
face to face with an example of that Sabwan art, the
. magnificence of which ancient authors have vaunted.
‘Strabo and Pliny describe the temples of stone and’
brick, ornamented with precious stone, and inlaid
‘with gold and silver, the luxurious palaces of the
indolent inhabitants of Mareb, Saba, Nedjrin. Their
accounts are anterior to the migrations of the Djifnide
Arabs, and ‘several’ centuries earlier than the con-
struction of the castle of Safa; nevertheless we may
see in, this monument a production of Saban
traditions, modified by the succession of years, and
the employment, of different materials. One proof
in support of this opinion is drawn from the curious
inscriptions which are found, not on the monument
itself, but in all the surrounding country. It is one
‘of the most curious .traits of the physiognomy of these
regions. On certain determined points, as at Sinai,
the rocks are covered with inscriptions, rudely traced
on the black surface of-the lava. These texts are
especially found on kinds of tumuli, in part natural, in
part artificial, formed of.an accumulation of rough
stones, called Rejm. The use of these tumuli to com-
memorate- an event in nomadic life is as old as
history itself: the adventures of Jacob, of Joseph,
of Absalom, furnish well-known examples, The
“Hebrews called these mute witnesses of a treaty, a
victory, or a murder, Gal; but the word Ridjmah
also existed in their language, where it meant a
pile of stones, and belonged more say to the
punishment’ of lapidation.
I do not know whether the gis of the Safa
26
434 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
have any traditional connection with unknown
history of these far-back times, but certainly the
inscriptions which they bear do not go back beyond
our own era. Although we have only as yet
arrived at the making out of a few words, we believe
that we may be assured that they belong to the
family of Himyaritic inscriptions. The alphabet
presents a strong analogy with that of the monuments
discovered in the Yemen, of which the British
Museum possesses such beautiful examples; but the
difficulties of reading are augmented by the coarseness
of the execution. Like the inscriptions of Sinai,
those of Safa appear to contain nothing but proper
names, accompanied by formule of souvenirs, or
prayers, gross representations of nomadic life,
combats, lion hunts, figures of camels, goats,and
women. It is more than probable that these
_ mysterious documents have been traced by Sabwan
immigrants, grouped around the chief who built
Kharbet el Beida, and before they had lost, by their
close neighbourhood to Syria, the use of the dialect
and the writing of their mother country. The
principal of these Rejm are the Rejm Marra, R.
Kakhotl, and others whose names have escaped me.
We copied more than five hundred texts, but thou-
sands more remain. It is at Rejm Marra that the
Safa terminates northwards; it marks the limit of-
the territory occupied by the tribes of Bedouin who
inhabit this rocky district. On this account they
have on the summit of the hill a kind of observatory,
from the top of which they watch the atrival of the
bands of the great tribes of the plain, with whom
JEBEL SES. 435
they are in open war. It was in order to pass this
point that we were obliged to provide ourselves
with an escort capable of resisting one of these
unexpected attacks. We wished to reach the Jebel
Sés, an isolated mountain, which can be seen on the
horizon, and where the traditions of the Arabs an-
nounced the existence of important and unexplored
ruins.
We set off in the morning, with our little troop
well armed, without baggage, and after five hours of
rapid travelling reached the end of our expedition.
The Anezch showed themselves nowhere, and we had
half a day’s leisure to examine this interesting spot,
hitherto untrodden by the foot of any European.
The Jebel Sés is an extinct volcano; it has exter-
nally the form of a cone, which may be 150 to 200
feet in height, and half a mile in diameter. In
the interior lies an enormous crater, with a breach
to the north, from which an immense jet of lava
and ashes has issued, and stretched away as far
as the horizon. At the bottom of the crater
rise. five small secondary cones, uplifted by later
eruptions. At the foot of the great cone, and on
the eastern side, a great depression in the plain
receives the winter rains, and forms a temporary
lake, On its banks is excavated a well of permanent
water, close to which we were nota little surprised
to find the well-preserved ruins of a Roman military
establishment.
It is composed of an entrenched camp, a square
enclosure, of 100 feet on the side, in good masonry,
and with a tower at each angle. In the centre of
2a 2
436 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
one of the faces is the entrance gate, in a semi-
circular tower of great beauty and well disposed
for defence. Under the protection of this fortress
were built several houses, at present destroyed ; and,
a little further, a bath, properly arranged according
to Roman tradition, and affording the soldiers of the
garrison the means of continuing their home habits
in the midst of the desert. The baths are in Roman
bricks, on a sub-basement of cut stone; all the
chambers were wagon-vaulted; the great hall is
terminated by an oven-like apse; and several stoves
are perfectly preserved,
Strangely enough, we found no inscriptions: to
preserve the memory either of the builders or the
temporary inhabitants of this abandoned post.
The camp at Ses formed part of a line of fortified
posts, which defended the Hauran against incursions
of the Bedouin. It is probable that it was joined at
the north with Palmyra, and that it continued to the
south in the direction of the strongholds of Moab
and Ammon. These posts were placed beside
permanent wells, not only on account of the wants
of the garrison, but also because the occupation of
the wells is the only way to command the respect of
the nomadic tribes.
We visited another of these posts, situated at
Nemara, at the southern extremity of the Safa,
exactly on the other side of Sés, It is much less
important than this last; but on account of this it is
perhaps still more interesting, since it offers a rare
example of a frontier post under the Roman empire.
A small mamelon, commanding the well situated
OUTPOSTS. 437
in the valley, and a kind of high road (perhaps
a direct route from Palmyra to Bosra), is crowned
by a wall of stone. In the centre. of this enclosure
is a small house, closed by a single stone door,
and serving as a lodging for the soldiers; an in-
scription on the lintel bears the name of Marcus
Aurelius; a great number of soldiers have written
‘their names on the walls or on the surrounding
rocks, accompanying them by their rank or their
native place. We gather from these that the post
was commanded by a decurion. It was composed
of a certain number of soldiers, chiefly taken from
the 38rd Oyrenaic Legion, stationed at Bosra; and
to these were joined the inhabitants of the neigh-
bouring villages, Hgla, Sodala, Tharba, who doubtless
came in turn to mount guard—in fact, a sort of local
militia, which assisted the regular army in its work
of protection. We meet here, too, a dromedarius,
_ that is to say, a soldier belonging to one of the ala
dromedariorum, or squadrons of auxiliaries mounted
on dromedaries, which were attached to the armies
of Syria and Egypt.
438 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
THE SURVEY OF PALESTINE.
BY LIEUTENANT S. ANDERSON, R,E.
“So Joshua sent men to measure the country, and sent with
them some geometricians, who could uot easily fail of knowing
the truth.”—Josernus, Antig. v. 1, § 21.
Tur Ordnance Survey of Jerusalem having been
successfully accomplished by Captain Wilson, R.E.,
and a party of the Royal Eugineers in the season of
1864-65, the Palestine Exploration Fund deter-
mined upon sending out an expedition to make such
a general survey of the country as would enable the
Society to fix on particular spots for further investiga-
tion, Captain Wilson was appointed to take charge
of the party, and he was accompanied by myself and
a photographer, Corporal Phillips, of the Royal
Engineers. The party left England on the 8th of
November, 1865, and arrived at Beyrout on the
22nd of the same month; there, with the assistance
of Mr. Eldridge, the Consul-General, the requisite
number of muleteers and mules were engaged, as
well as a dragoman or interpreter, who provided
tents and complete camp equipment. ~
Space will not admit in the present article of
describing the proceedings of the expedition on the
METHOD OF SURVEY. 439
journey between Beyrout and Banias (Cesarea
Philippi), the northern limit of Palestine ; but it may
“be interesting to describe, as briefly as possible, the
method of conducting the Reconnaissance Survey of
the Holy Land which commenced at this point. The
-instruments employed were, an eight-inch sextant,
the size generally used on board ship, an artificial
horizon, a small theodolite for measuring angles, two :
measuring chains, a pockét prismatic compass,
four pocket chronometers or watches, one mercurial
and one aneroid barometer. The latitudes and
longitudes of the halting-places between Beyrout and
Banias were taken, and thus the position of Banias
was definitely fixed with reference to Beyrout on the
sea coast.
The first operation in every survey is the measure-
ment of a base line. ‘The country round Banias was.
not favourable for the ground measurement of a base
line, nor was it possible for an officer single-handed
to accomplish this satisfactorily, hence it was deter-
mined to measure one in the Jordan Valley by means
‘of the stars. It is most fortunate that the general
direction of the survey of the country is north and
south, since by selecting two prominent points lying
nearly north and south, and also visible from each
other, the latitude can be accurately observed at each
place. The difference of latitude in miles is the
distance between the stations, a small correction for
difference of longitude being applied where the points
do not lie exactly north and south of each other.
For example, if two pairs of north and south stars are ,
observed with a sextant, the latitude of a place on the
“440 RECOVERY OF JHRUSALEM.
earth’s surfacé may be telied upon to be-within 100
yards of the truth. In a similar manner ‘the latitude
of the next station would bé found within.100 yards,
and the average error in the distanee between the two
points would be within that amount, Such an
_ amount of error would not be appreciable gn a recon-
naissance survey where a base line can generally be
chosen of at least six miles in length. It was con-
sidered sufficient for this purpose that the map should
be prepared on the scale of one inch toe mile, this
being the scale of the Ordnance Map that ig found
invaluable in every tountry house.
The base being decided on, excursions are made to
the most prominent points and hill-tops, from which
angles are taken by @ prismatic compass to’ the ends
of the base tiie, In this manner all prominent points
aie visited, and are referrtd either directly to the
terminals of the original base or to points that
have been already so referred, .and thusg the more
distant points at first, and the nearer points after-
wards, are all linked together by tHe method
~technically called triangulation.
In riding from point to point, gare is taken to
‘ travel as much as possible at a uniform pace, and the
time at which any important point is passed, such as
a village or crossing of a stream, is hoted, and angles.
or bearings are taken to any previously fixed points,
by which the position of the new site can then be
definitely determined. This is all entered at the time
in the sketch sheet, the angles being laid down on the
paper by means of a protractor, and the actual topo-
graphical features of the ground marked gs they
:
i
THE “ TRIANGULAR” HILL. 443
occur. At the same time the reading of a pocket
aneroid barometer is noted, and thus a fair approxi-
mation is arrived at of the altitude of the different
points. _ By this method contour lines at any required.
intervals (such as 25 feet) are obtained, and by in-
serting them in the reconnaissance sketch, the eye
can recognise at once the prominent features and the
varied slopes of the ground.
Peculiar facilities exist for making a survey of
Palestine: the country is studded with prominent
hill tops, ‘‘the highlands,” from which the adjoining
country can be seen for long distances. One instance
may be quoted. From the top of Safed Hill a round
of angles was taken, and all referred to the sun ata
known time; one hill to the southward was very
distinct, and for want of a name it was entered in
the note book as the “triangular hill.” For many
weeks, as the expedition moved southwards, no trace
could be found of this unknown hill, till at last, when
examining the Jordan ravines 20 miles to the north
of Jerusalem, the triangular hill rising out of the
plain of the a ordan Valley burst into view, and was
at once*fecognised. This hill was found to be 32
miles from Safed, where angles were first taken to it,
and even at that distance it was perfectly distinct.
The, atmosphere is very clear, and there are many
"pojnts from which Mount Hermon at one extremity
of the Holy Land and the Dead Sea at the other can
be distinctly. seén, the view thus extending over a
distance of 150 miles. The hill-tops also are all bare,
_and large trees are so rarely seen that, if a prominent
one can be distinguished, it is noted on the sketch.
442 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
Thus any separate sections of surveying work under-
taken in different parts of the country can be readily
and accurately bound together by reference to well-
known and prominent points that have been previously
fixed,
The great object in the first surveying expedition
was to lay down accurately the position of the high
lands or western watershed of the whole country.
This being accomplished, the survey could then be
extended on the same scale to the seaboard on the
west to the plain of Bashan on the east, and the work
ought not to cease till this is accomplished. The
Biblical student, with his map before him, can trace
out at his leisure the great highroads of old; with
the aid of any local description or perhaps traditionary
legends he can identify many ruined and nameless
sites of the old fenced cities, for the map will show
what are the sites pointed out by nature for fortresses,
arid search may successfully be made for the principal
cities of old among the ruined heaps near the precious
water springs of the country.
Nestling under the south-western spurs of Mount
Hermon is a triangular terrace, which rises 500 feet
above the plain beneath. At its innermost angle there
issues forth from the rock a spring which rises a full-
grown stream. From the earliest times settlers must
have been attracted to this highly-favoured spot, but
its history can only be traced with certainty to the
first century, when we read that Herod the Great
built a temple at the fountain in honour of Augustys
Cesar, and round this spot the town of Casared
Philippi sprung into existence. ;
LAISH. ~ 443
Starting from a Mussulman tomb in the mountain-
side overlooking the spring a reconnaissance of the
valley commenced, with the assistance of an Arab
from the village. Our camp is pitched in an olive
grove, between two torrent beds that are dry at this
winter season: on the little plateau between the
streams is the modern village of Banias, with the
remains of a modern fortification still encircling it,
and on the whole of the terrace to the west and south-
west of the village are the ruins of the once famed
frontier city Caesarea Philippi. Here were the villas
of the Roman settlers, and in their midst stood the
public theatre, where Titus, on his return from the
capture of Jerusalem, held a great festival, and com-
pelled the captive Jews to act as gladiators and fight
with wild beasts in the public arena.
Three quarters of an hour's ride from Banias
westwards, by a path winding through oleanders
and shrub oak, brings us to a curious grassy mound,
rising to a height of 25 feet, and overlooking the
whole of the plain to the southward. This is Tel el-
Kadi, and here was Laish, the site of Dan, the
frontier town of the Holy Land. The hill is 300
yards long from north to south, 250 yards from east
to west. The eastern and western slopes are very
irregular, and towards the north-west it falls away
and assumes a bowl-like form. Ascending the hill, -
" and passing along its summit, we see an old tomb in
honour of a Mussulman saint, under the shade of a
magnificent oak-tree. Standing on the west side
of the hill, we hear the sound of a great body of
rushing water, and on penetrating through the thick
444 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
oleander bushes, and traversing a most rocky slope,
we discover a large pool 50 or 60 yards wide, and
the water, bubbling out of the ground, rushes away
another full-grown stream. The pool is partially
filled “up, and entirely surrounded by shapeless
basaltic stones, and it is evident that all with any
architectural detail or with well-dressed faces have
‘been removed long ago for building in other parts
of the plain. At the south-west corner of the Tel
rises another smaller fountain. The two streams
join, and form a large pool 150 yards wide, delta-
shaped, and covered with bushes. From the apex
of this delta the stream flows away in a south-west
course across the plain. This tributary of the Jordan,
called by Josephus the Lesser Jordan, is twice as
large as the fountain at Banias, and three times as
large as the main stream of the Jordan coming from
the north. The southern ridge has still traces of the
wall which was built there to command the plain
towards the south; and a position so well chosen,
when fortified, might well be considered secure.
Such was the impression of the five Danite spies
who came to seek for.an inheritance for their tribe ;
and even now the park-like beauty of the plain, and
the surpassing luxuriance of the soil, confirm their
report: “ We have seen the land, and heye is no
want of anything that is in the earth.”
Our reconnaissance was extended down the valley
to ascertain the exact spot where the principal tribu-
taries unite. The great feature in this part of the
valley is the succession of terraces through which the
streams pass before reaching the plain. Five of
MONSOURAH. 446
these may be distinctly counted from Tel el-Kadi,
forming natural contours at about 25 feet intervals,
Following the stream on its right bank, some curious
openings are observed in the hillside, which is com-
posed of a soft limestone ; and on closer examination
three caverns are discovered, extending 30 feet
under the hill, and with a natural roof 10 feet high.
The largest cave was tenanted by cattle, and in two
or three corners human beings were sharing it with
them. Farther on we come to the village of Mon-
sourah, where there is an encampment of Arabs.
They live in huts composed of the long babeer canes
that abound in the swamps of the valley, and which
grow to a height of 15 feet. The people farm on
a small scale, and possess herds of black buffalo
cattle. These animals, with their large backward
turned horns and very short hair, are usually seen
contentedly standing in the swamps of the Hileh,
with their heads only out of water, to escape the
torments of flies and mosquitoes.
The people of the village were very friendly, arfd
the lazy ploughmen, only too glad for an excuse to
stop work, left their ploughs.to see the “ Frank”
taking his observations and making his sketches.
The women were all busy, some weaving camel's
hair, to form one of the most admirable materials for
clothing (it keeps out the heat, cold, and rain), others
weaving mats, others grinding corn between two
stones, others rocking and kneading a goatskin full
of milk, the Arab process of butter-making, others
minding the babies. Here we come upon the Banias
waters, which sweepround so close to the village,
446 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
ant 80 ewiftly, that the prauad: ‘anier the huts is
rapidly being washed away. Half an hour's journey
down the valley brings us to the junction of the
Banias and Tel el-Kadi streams; the latter scarcely
recognisable as it flows in a sluggish stream, having
parted with nearly all its waters in supplying the
artificial rivulets that irrigate the upper part of the
plain. A quarter of an hour's walk brings us to the
junction with the main stream; and on a hillock
overlooking the spot observations were taken for
latitude at midday. This point is now geographically
determined. The Jordan here is 45 feet wide, of a
dirty yellow colour, and flowing between Banks
25 feet below the general level of the plain, whilst
the united streams flow in a channel 90 feet wide.
From this point southwards for seven miles to Lake
Hileh (the waters of Merom) the whole of the plain
is marshy, and the lower part covered with babeer
canes.
From Tel el-Kadi we take the path westerly over
stony ground, and cross many artificial rivulets for
irrigating the land. ‘One mile and a half from the
Tel brings us to the Jordan gorge runfing north
and south, and 60 feet below is the stream itself.
There is a very stony descent to its bed, and the
river itself is crossed at this place by a bridge of
modern construction, with three pointed arches, the
water, which was only 30 feet wide at this time
of the year, flowing through the western arch only.
The -gorge continues for a mile to the southward,
and then abruptly terminates, the river issuing on
the plain. Continuing our journey to the north-
a
HUNIN. 447
west, we pass the sites of the old town of Tor, with
its little plain, now called Merj Aydin, and the site
of Beth Abel, now called Abil; and, on the rising
ground farther on, we come to the line of watershed,
the great geographical line separating the waters of
the Mediterranean from those of the Jordan. It is
our special object to trace this western backbone
continuously, and with that view we follow the
dividing ridge, which is extremely narrow and well
defined, to the southward, and at the end of the day’s
journey come to Hunin, on the summit of the western
hills,
Here is the site of a very old and important fort-
ress, which bears the stamp of several successive
occupants, Roman, Saracen, Crusader, Turk, and
Arab.
It must have been the site of a fenced city even
when the tribe of Naphtali occupied this region ;
for Nature has made the site a fortress, and it
commands the mountain pass through which is the
high road from Acre to Damascus. <A part of the
ditch of the fortress has been excavated out of the
solid rock, and in one place a beautiful geological
section has been disclosed. From this place we look
down upon the plain of the Jordan, and the un-
dulating hilly ground sloping towards the Medi-
terranean, and here the depression of the Jordan is
very striking, the whole valley looking like a vast
fissure with elevated plateau on each side. The
Jordan is some 2000 feet below, and its very waters
seem to flow suspiciously, as if they were going on a
frititless journey, never to reach the sea. It seems
448 RECOVERY OF JER USALEM.
to linger on its ceurse, and winds about and across
the valley, and. just below Hunin it. overflows
nearly the entire valley, converting it into a vast
swamp; and again, a few miles below, it resolves
itself into a triangular lake, 3 miles broad and
4 miles long, known as Lake Haleh. Here, having
formed a lake walled in on both sides by’-hills,
it seems to make another effort ¥o reach. the ‘sea,
‘and we can see it flowing in a narrow channel with
precipitous banks; unconscious of the fact that its
waters are. now at the sea-level, for 9 miles-more
it rushes onwards, till it is again arrested in itg on-
ward course by the formation of a large lake of great
beauty, 14 miles long and 6 miles wide—the Sea of
Galilee. Then it leaves the lake so stéaltbily, and
by so obscure an outlet, that it can only be detected
on visiting the exact spot. Another effort, ig, made
to reach the sea; the river rusheg on beisterously ;
but it is too late to acfomplish the great,object of all
other rivers, for its waters are now 600 feet below
the level of the ocean.
Our reconnaissance along the watershed from Hunin
embraces a succession of mountain peaks forming the
great western wall of the Jordan. These hills of
Naphtali are still well wooded, but the oaks are being
rapidly thinned out to supply the Damascus market
with charcoal. The great feature of these highlands
is the succession of valleys with which the country is
intersected, the ridges between them being somewhat
of the character of open glades gently sloping towards
the sea. ; ae
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RKEDESH. 3 449
where the marshland of the valley commences, the hill
slopes to the southward and overlooks a little plain,
1 mile wide and 2 miles long, lying sheltered and com-
pletely inclosed by the hills. This is the plain of
Zaanain ; and in the middle of its western side is the
undoubted site of Kedesh, the northern city of refuge.
It is situated on a little tongue of land, projecting into _
the .plain, and from the rising ground that incloses
.the plain on the east we overlook the Valley of the ,
Jordan, but from a much less elevation than from -
Hunin, The tongue of land on which this border city
stood was regularly fortified with a wall and towers
at intervals, as the heaps of rubbish show ; but below:
the town is another tongue of land stretching out into
‘the plain a quarter of a mile, lower than the first and
rocky. Here are situated some remains of undoubted
antiquity, Ona large massive platform of masonry ~
stand two or three magnificent sarcophagi, and
curiously enough, one of them is a double one, and ~
made to contain two people under one lid; the stone
pillows in each loculus being at alternate ends. On
an adjoining hill, Tel Kureibeh, a sarcophagus was
discovered with three loculi. A eonspicuous hill, Tel
Hara; is in full view to the south-east, and on its
summit, which had not been previously visited, are °
the remains of a very old fortress, surrounded by. a
strong wall, with towers at intervals, and the remains
of building could be traced over the whole of the hill.
It is thought that this may be the long lost Hazor, for
it answers exactly ‘thg description’ of the *Jewish
historian, and it overlooks immediately the waters of
Merom, and the plain adjoining, where a thousand *
.24
450 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
chariots could be marshalled. There can be no doubt, ©
however, that this plain was the scene of the great
battle, when Jabin, King of Hazor, collected the vast
host to fight Joshua ; and the track of the fugitives is
in fall view, up the valley, past our first camp at
Banias, and into the ravines of the Lebanon, “till
none remained.” .
From Kedesh we continued our journey through
very steep and rugged ravines, and after being
engulfed in these for several hours we come out
upon a plateau and again reach the watershed at
Kefer Birim. The recess in the hills caused by the
little plain of Zaanaim pushes the line of watershed
farther west, and we find it gradually extending west-
wards, and leaving larger areas of country to be
drained into the Jordan basin. On the highlands are
the modern villages of Maroon and Yaroon; the first
on a solitary -hill-top, without wood or water, the
latter on lower ground, and chiefly interesting on
account of its ruins of an early Christian church.
The similarity of the name has led to this-place being
recognised as the “Iron” of old, one of Naphtali’s
fenced cities. Half a mile to the eastward there is a
clump of trees and brushwood, where some men were
cutting firewood, and on inquiring they said there
was nothing to be seen there, but the place looked 86
like the site of an old town that we went on in spite
” of them, and found a heap of ruins; and among them,
“and. nearly overgrown with brushwood, a temple
built of hard white limestone, almost like marble.
These ruins would probably repay closer examination.
“ Rarther on to the northward is the modern village of
SARCOPHAGUS. 451
Ainata, supposed to be the Bethanath of Scripture.
This was the very centre of the wooded hills of Naph-
tali, and from the summit ofa prominent hill near the
village of Khunin the Mediterranean was in full view,
the ridge of Cape Carmel extending to the shore line,
and the town of Acre lying in the plain on the sea-
shore, a little fortress completely inclosed in its walls. ”
To the north, across some gently undulating ground,
could be distinctly seen the crusading castles of Tibneh
and Belfort. :
At the neighbouring village of Shalaboon, on the
hill-top, is an immense sarcophagus large enough to
contain one of the giants of old. This massive block
of limestone was deliberately removed from its bed and
turned over. Lower down the hill were two other
stone coffins, both partially overturned. The designs
sculptured on the sides are very perfect. In the centre
is a grotesque figure, supporting on his shoulders a
massive wreath, which hung down in a festoon on
both sides of him, and the ends are gathered up in a
masonry knot at each angle of the sarcophagus,
From the centre of each festoon is suspended a bunch
of grapes. At the end are a shield and a pair of
short javelins, which marked the rank or dignity of
the deceased warrior. This would bea great curiosity
to send to England if the roads would admit of
its being transported to the sea-coast.
The reconnaissance was continued along the water-
shed from -Kefer Birim to the southward. On the
hillside, near the village of Sasa, isan old Jewish tomb
cutin the rock. A small entrance leads into a chamber
12 feet square, and around this space are the coffin-
2n2
452 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
shaped recesses or loculi, in which the bodies were
placed.
Some of the recesses were very small, as if for
infants; the mouth of each loculus had at one time
been sealed with a stone. The principal entrance of
the tomb is so low that it is necessary to stoop in order
to get in. The scene described in St. John (xi. 38) is
most vividly realised, after seeing the style and
arrangement of these old Jewish tombs.*
Following the line of watershed we reach the
summit of Jebel Jermuk, the culminating summit of
Galilee, 4000 feet above the sea, hitherto an unex-
plored region, The summit was reached by a wood-
man’s path, which was so overgrown that it was im-
possible to ride along it without frequently leaning
forward on one’s horse while he forced his way under
the branches, ‘The woodman’s path soon came to an
end, and there was great difficulty in reaching the
‘summit. Clambering up the wooded ravine, the in-
habited village of Jermuk was found on the summit,
and the people of the village declined to give any
information. In such a remote spot they might well
. consider themselves secure. Following towards the
south the narrow mountain ridge, the land falls on
each side, and the water parting is here defined
exactly, and at last it reaches the southern peak of the
Jermuk mass, and descends precipitously 2000 feet
into the plain of Rameh; and 1 mile east of the
village Rameh, possibly the site of Ramah, one of
Naphtali’s fenced cities, one small precious spring
* Sce Quarterly Statement II. Captain Wilson’s Notes on the
Rock-cut Tombs of Palestine.
ENHAZOR. 458
supplies the village with water, and close to the spring
vegetation is most luxuriant, and in marked contrast
with the parched land adjoining. Here the people
had erected summer-houses of branches on the flat
roofs of their mud houses. The mud houses of the
village seem to possess so little attraction even to their
owners, that they never sit in them in the daytime,
but assemble in groups in the different sunny corners
of the village, and idle there the whole day.
And now we have reached the southern limit of
Naphtali. Its boundary is most difficult to trace, as
many of the border towns detailed by Joshua as de-
fining the boundary are not yet identified; but the
modern Tel Hazor is probably the site of Enhazor,
and the village of Yagoog, in the plain below to the
eastward, may possibly be the site of the border town
Hukkok. The tribe of Naphtali possessed as much
of the north-eastern country as they could conquer,
- and it is probable that their possessions extended as
far as Damascus. ‘The peculiarities of their country
must have made them a hardy race of mountaineers,
and an agricultural people, compelled to -clear, the
land before they could cultivate it, and possessing vast.
pasture lands in the Jordan Valley.
Our reconnaissance has now laid down definitely
the natural features of this northern region, and I am
obliged reluctantly to leave the valleys of Galilee
and the shores of its lake, which were all embraced
in the survey, and resume the geographical line of
travel dividing the eastern and western system of
valleys. Here, on entering Zebulon’s territory, we ©
find its characteristic features are low ridges of hills
454 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
inclosing most fertile strips of plain; and at last, as
the ridges become less elevated, the plain is still more
raised, and we find plain and ridge blended together
into a vast plateau ending abruptly near Nazareth,
where a range of hills forms the great natural step
leading to the great plain. There is something very
striking in the position of Nazareth. It is completely
shut in by hills, which cluster round it on all sides,
and shelter it from the bleak winds. The town is
built principally on the slope of the western hills ;
the houses, constructed of the white limestone of the
neighbourhood, are of dazzling brightness in the sun-
light. Ata distance they have a remarkably clear
appearance, and it must not be forgotten that this
effect is very much increased by the absence of smoke,
from which all eastern towns are free. The streets
are very narrow, and the bazaars or shops are quite
of a miniature character, mere cupboards or recesses
in each side of the street. The largest and most
important building is the Latin convent, surrounded
by substantial walls, a most hospitable establishment,
whose doors are always open to travellers. On
Sunday morning the great bell of the convent com-
menced ringing before the dawn of day, and if this
is the réveille of the monks, they might have made a
little less nbise, for they must have roused the whole
town long before any one thought of getting up.
There is one other place of great interest for us to
visit, and that is the well of the town, and the whole
. water supply is drawn from this one source. There
seems to be a large tank constructed in the hillside,
and from a slab of masonry forming one of the sides
NAZARETH. 455
the water issues through several taps, and collects in
a trough below, for horses to drink. When we
reached the well we found a great cluster of women,
with their pitchers, waiting for their turn to draw
water, and not appearing to hurry themselves when
it did come. Our horses, being very thirsty, made a
rush at the fountain where the women were all
collected, and commenced to dance and jump about in
a playful way, sending women and pitchers flying in
all directions. We suddenly found ourselves left
alone at the’ spring, the frightened crowd having
formed a large circle round us. The young drawers
of water thought it great fun, the more aged dames
scowled at us, and seemed to regard us as wanton
intruders. They soon collected their courage again
when the horses were quiet, and while our horses
were drinking the women came close up to them
to draw the water to wash clothes, to wash their
hands and feet, all these operations going on simul-
‘taneously around us. Just behind us a string of
camels had appeared to take their turn at the
watering trough, and these docile animals seemed to
have patience enough to wait till dark; indeed there
was such a crowd of women waiting with their
pitchers, that the sun must have set before they
could all have had their turn at the spring.
The Nazareth hills have for the most part become
rocky and barren, and the effect is to make the little
town and. basin of Nazareth appear more beautiful—a
_ lovely little spot, shut in on all sides by dreary and
. unprofitable hills. And yet, in spite of the beauty of
the place, it had a very mean reputation nineteen
456 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
hundred years ago. We hear the question put, “Can
any good thing come out of Nazareth ?” and the very
villagers spoke with a rude and uncouth provincialism
that marked them at once as Nazarenes. The hills of
Nazareth, although at one time under cultivation, are
for the most part neglected now. The plan by which the
people make the slopes fit for cultivation, is to collect
all the loose stones and build rough walls, supporting
terraces along the face of the hills, giving the latter the
appearance of a series of steps. These little terraces
are levelled, and thus strips of land of great fertility
are gained, producing grapes and all kinds of fruit.
The supporting walls, if neglected, tumble down; the
earth on the terraces is then soon washed away by
the heavy rains, and the slopes of the hills in time
present nothing but barren rocks, a feature now only
too common throughout the country.
It is two hours’ journey from Nazareth due east to
the foot of Mount Tabor, and half an hour’s journey
to the summit, 800 feet above the plain. Mount.
Tabor is a very remarkable feature. It has a flat
summit, a little less than a quarter of a mile long, and
an eighth of a mile wide, and it stands not quite
isolated, though on its north-western side it is joined
to the Nazareth hills by a low ridge. There are the
remains of a fortress on the summit, and in the midst
is a capital piece of pasture, where there is a herd of
goats grazing tended by onc of the monks. The
Greek church have obtained possession of this
mountain, and have built a church there, and there
' .are one or two small dwellings close to the church.
There are now no remains characteristic of great
ESDRAELON. 457
antiquity on the mountain top, though it must
always have been an important site, and probably
fortified. The present Saracenic ruins appear to be
composed of the old materials.
Our reconnaissance is. continued southwards from
. Nazareth, and an hour after leaving the town we
descend from the Nazareth hills by a deep gorge
without a path, and come at once on the great plain
of Esdraelon, apportioned to Issachar, and the scene
of most of the great battles in Palestine. The line
of watershed is found enteringsthe plain close to the
village of Iksal, the site of the ancient town Chesulloth,
one of Issachar’s cities. This great plain of Esdraelon,
the péya wéS.ov, extends from the base of the Nazareth
hills for about 12 miles to the south, and from
east to west nearly double that distance. A con-
siderable portion of it is under cultivation, ploughing
going on vigorously, even at the end of February,
some using a yoke of oxen, some a single horse, and
one man had a donkey and an ox yoked together.
The plain is not quite a dead level. It is more un-
dulating than level, but we can trace the extent of
the plain very clearly, for the mountain range of
Carmel bounds it on the west, the hills of Samaria
on the south, Mounts Gilboa and Tabor on the
west, and the hills of Nazareth, which we have just
descended, on the north,
We have left the mountainous country behind us,
and now we see to the southward long monotonous
ranges of hills in the distance, withouta peak or pro-
‘ minent mark to attract the eye. The small amount
of wood that we saw on the hills of Galilee has now
458 - RECOVERY. OF JERUSALEM.
dimppeared: and in the plain, as well’ as on the hills to
the south, there is not.a tree to be seen. :
On the first day’s journey from Nazareth I came to
a village called Fuleh, in the plain, celebrated as the
site of Napoleon’s battle of Mount*Tabor in 1799.
General Kleber; with a few thousand men, held his
own for. several hours against an overwhelming
number of Turks till Napoleon himself canie to the
‘rescue. An old Arab told me tliat the French buried
the bodies of the Turks by throwing them all into
one large tank, which was completely filled with the
dead. We reached Zerin, the site of Jezreel, in
about half an hour, and were disappointed at finding
the old site ‘of the royal city.not only an immense
heap of rubbish, but covered with modern hovels.
The search for Ahab’s Palace was quite hopeless above
ground, for there was not a vestige of any old building:
to be seen. The sité of the town is Well chosen ; it
commands a view of nearly the whole of the plain of
Esdraelon, and overlooks immediately to the northward
a beautiful valley, the vale of Jezreel. Mount Gilboa
rises from the plain close to the old city, overlooks’
the vale, and, in fact, forms its southern boundary.
‘In this valley, and in full view of our tents, was
encamped the vast host of the Amalekites and
Midianites, that.had formed an alliance to invade the
land of Israel. Gideon was divinely ordered to repel
the invasion, and he assembled 32,000 men of the
neighbouring tribes just below the village of Jezreel,
and at the foot of Mount Gilboa. Here is a beautiful
spring, which must have been the scene of the selection
of the 300 who proved their courage and calmness by
(GIDEON'S SPRING. 459
hapa the water an their hands. The attack was
made at night; the invaders, in their alarm, fell upon
each other “and routed themselves. Gideon, it is
said, returned from the pursuit with his 300 men, so
- that not a man of his heroic company perished.
The next invading host we find here was that of the
Philistines, who came from the sea-coast, when Saul was
king. We can trace exactly the adventurous journey
he had the night before his death; from Jezreel, across
the vale, in the greatest peril of capture by the Philis-
tines, whose camp he was stealthily avoiding, and
round the shoulder of the opposite hill to the-village of
Endor, at the back of the hill, 64 miles distant from
his palace. Here, in one of the numerous caves which
are still inhabited, the witch of Endor lived. Thenext
day, on Gideon’s old camping-ground, the Israclites
_ suffered a grievous defeat, and in the battle Saul and
his three sons perished. The lamentation of David
on this defeat is most touchingly recorded, and refers
minutely to the character and scene of the action.
he vanquished threw away their shields, leaving
themselves utterly defenceless, and proving how
closely they were pursued. They fled to the ravines
and up the mountain slopes of Mount Gilboa, south-"
east of our camp, and there miserably perished.
Here, in the vale and in the immediate neighbour-
hood of Gideon’s spring, must have been the site of
Naboth’s vineyard; and at this spot we read with
deepest interest the account of the murder of Naboth,
the seizure of his vineyard through the instrumentality
of Ahab’s queen, and how rapidly the murder was
avenged by Jehu, who seized the government, killed
460 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
Jehoram on the very site of the vineyard at Gideon’s
spring, and advancing to Jezreel, caused Jehoram’s
mother to be thrown out of window. There are now,
as at all other villages, crowds of starving dogs ready
to devour every particle of refuse, and we vividly
realised how, when the men went out in the evening
to bury Jezebel, they found no more than the skull,
the feet, and the palms of the hands. :
While we were encamped at Jezreel, the sheikh of
the village complained that a tax-gatherer from the
neighbouring town of Jenin had just paid them a
visit, and had flogged our water-carrier because the
latter would not wait upon him, The chief desired
Captain Wilson to make a report to the governor at
Jenin, and our dragoman was accordingly directed to
write a letter in Arabic and submit it for signature.
The dragoman’s interpretation of his own letter was
as follows :—* To the Governor of Jenin. The chief
of the village of Jezreel, what you send one policeman
he come speak bad words and beat near to kill him
one man what fetch de water for one English colonel
I come for see you presently.” This was duly signed
by Captain Wilson, and as the chief insisted on a seal
‘being appended to the signature, an old monogram
was cut off a sheet of note paper and affixed to the
letter. This was supposed to prove the genuineness
of the document, as a man’s seal cannot be forged.
From Jezreel an excursion was made to El Lejjun,
on the western side of the plain, and we pitched our
camps by the waters of the ancient Megiddo, The
encampment of the invading host, under Sisera,
extended from this point along the edge of the hills
DEFEAT OF SISERA. 461
south-eastwards as far as Taanach, which can still be
identified. Barak’s army, was collected on Mount
Tabor, 14 miles distant, but in full view of the
invader’s camp. . The advance of the Israelites was at
once discovered, and Sisera pushed forward his army
till the engaging armies met in the midst of the
swamps of the plain. A gale from the north-east
blowing over Hermon’s snowy peaks drove a blinding
hailstorm direct in the faces of Sisera’s army. The
swamps of the Kishon soon became rushing torrents ;
the 3000 chariots, once so formidable, now sank to the
axle-trees in’ the mire. The principal bed of the
Kishon, which the Canaanites had at first crossed, is
now a foaming torrent in their rear, and on attempt-
ing to retreat from the first onslaught of the Israelites
they were utterly routed. Sisera fled on foot from the
plain, over the Nazareth hills, across Zebulun’s territory,
and after travelling 40 miles from the battlefield,
reached ‘Heber’s encampment at Kadesh, where he
was treacherously murdered by Jael, who had for her
murderous deed the implements always at hand in a
tent, a tent-nail and a tent-mallet.
The whole of the south-western portion of the plain
having now been added to our map, the work was
continued eastwards down the valley of Jezreel, past
the hill of Moreh at the modern village of Kumieh,
-and to the confluence of the vale with the valley and
plain of the Jordan. At this point are the remains of
the ancient Bethshan or Scythopolis, one of the cities
of the Decapolis. On reaching Beisan, the first thing
we remark is a prominent mound, partly natural and
partly artificial, the site of the Acropolis. The ruins
462 : RECO VERY OF JERUSALEM.
of the place were hopelessly covered with weeds, in
most places 4 feet high. This increased the difficulty
of making a survey of the ruins. The remains of two
theatres can still be traced, the columns of two temples,
two colonnaded streets running through the city, and
one half of the city wall; also the great gateway at
the north-west corner of the city, whence the high-
road to Gadara started. The plain of the Jordan
stretches away to the southward almost in an un-
broken view to Jericho, and the hills to the eastward
rise in a long and steep ascent to the elevated plateau,
the land of Bashan, 2000 feet above the valley. At
this time the Bedawin Arabs below Beisan were at
war with a neighbouring tribe. The two hostile
tribes had assembled on opposite sides of the Jordan,
and had been firing across the river at* each other.
They were only waiting for the fords to be passable
to cross over and have a pitched battle. A fortnight
later, on our way to examine the celebrated crossing-
place over the Jordan, where Abraham and Jacob
passed on their way from the east country to the land
of Canaan, we fortunately missed by two hoursa band
of five hundred horsemen, who had crossed the river,
and were robbing all the villages on their march.
The tribe that attacked Dr. Beke was very friendly to
us, and escorted us to the river and back again to the
more frequented line of travel. i
The unsettled state of this neighbourhood caused a
break in our reconnaissance survey, for the line of
watershed, which was traced through the plain of
Esdraelon to a minimum elevation of only 400 feet
above the sea was lost after passing the summit of
DOTHAN. 463
Mount Gilboa, a district which has never been ex-
plored by any traveller. Our reconnaissance was con-
tinued southwards from the plain of Esdraelon,
following the great highroad to Jerusalem. The
path leaves the plain at the modern village of Jenin
(the Engannim, of Issachar), and follows the course of
a little valley thickly planted with olive trees. After
. a gentle ascent of 2 miles the valley ends in a little
plain, having the village of Kubatiyeh at its south-
western corner, built upon the slope of the hill. The
locusts were very thick in this plain, and were settling
upon the blades of corn, now 6 or 8 inches high.
The women and children of the village were distri-
buted over the plain trying to drive away the locusts
with sticks and branches. In the course of a month
the young locusts would be hatched, and while they
‘are in the crawling stage they devour every trace of
vegetation that comes in their way.
Tn the continuation of this plain, and a little to the
_ westward, is a hill called Dotan, which has been re-
cognised as the site of Dothan, where Joseph’s
brethren were feeding their flocks when he came from
his father’s settlement at Hebron to visit them. ‘The
numerous rock-hewn cisterns that are found every-"
where would furnish ,a suitable pit, in which they
might have thrust him; and as these cisterns are
shaped like a bottle, with a narrow mouth, it would
be impossible for any one imprisoned within to extri-
. cate himself without assistance. These cisterns are all
.eracked now and useless. They are, however, the
most undoubted evidences that exist of the handiwork
of the inhabitants in ancient times.
In the course of our day’s journey from Esdraelon
464 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
we passed through a succession of narrow valleys,
occasionally relieved by strips of plain, and these are
the chief characteristics of the central portion of
Manasseh’s territory. After seven hours’ travelling
the path skirts the western shoulder of a very pro-
minent hill, and then descends into the vale of
Nablas.
This spot, the site se the ancient Shechem, the Gity
of Refuge, is unrivalled in Palestine for beauty and
luxuriance. There are two mountains parallel to
each other, almost meeting at their bases, but one mile
and a half apart at their summits. They inclose a
beautiful little valley between them, not more than
100 yards wide at the narrowest part, and widening
out in both directions. The town of Nablisis situated
at the narrowest part of the vale. The mountain on
the north is Ebal, that on the south Gerizim, and the”
vale lies east and west. The site of the town és
admirably chosen, on the watershed, in. the middle of
the pass, easy of access to the Jordan cov itry eagt-
wards, and to the sea-coast on the west. ‘he whole
of Mount Gerizim was thoroughly examineu, and the
plan of Justinian’s church disclosed by excavation.
' It had been built upon older foundations, probably
those of the old Samaritan temple. An excursion was
made to the summit of Mount Ebal, 1200 feet above
the vale. The summit is rocky and bare, and there
are no ruins on the mountain top, except a curious
square inclosure, with very thick rude walls. Jusf
below the summit there is a break in the regular slope-
of the hill, and a small but steep valley comes up from’
the vale below almost to the summit, forming a vas,
natural amphitheatre, in height equal to thet of th.
EBAL AND GERIZIM. 465
mountain. Immediately opposite to this the steep
slope of Mount Gerizim is similarly broken by a
valley forming a second natural amphitheatre of equal
beauty and grandeur. In these two lateral valleys -
were assembled the twelve tribes of Israel under
Joshua, six tribes on Gerizim, and six on Ebal. The
Levites and the ark were in the strip of the vale, and
the blessings and cursings were read before the whole
congregation (Josh. viii. 32 to 35, and compare
Deut. xxvii. 11). Nothing is wanting in the natural.
beauty of the site to add to the solemnity and im-
pressiveness of such a scene. The best view of the
town of Nablis is from Ebal. It seems to repose so
snugly in the little vale, and while the houses seem’ to
shrink from the base of the Ebal slope, they cling to
and attempt to climb the slope of Gerizim, the moun-
tain of blessings. At the edge of the plain of Mukna
(Moreh), a mile and a half east of the town, is Jacob’s
Well, on the picce of ground he purchased from the
Shech mites. Not far from the well is the site of
J osepil’s Tomb. The identity of the well has never
been’ disputed. Christians, Jews, Moslems, and
Samaritans all acknowledge it, and the existence of a
well in a place where water-springs are abundant is
sufficiently remarkable to give this well a peculiar
history.
Some men were set to work to clear out the mouth
pf the well, which was being rapidly covered up. A
chamber had been excavated to the depth of 10 feet,
and in the floor of the chamber was the mouth of the
well, like the mouth of a bottle, and just wide
enough to admit a man’s body. We lowered a
21
466 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
candle down the well and found the air perfectly
good, and after the usual amount of noise and talking
among the workmen and idlers, I was lashed with a
good rope round the waist and a loop for my feet,
and lowered through the mouth of the well by some
trusty Arabs directed by my friend Mr. Falcher, the
Protestant missionary. The sensation was novel and
disagreeable. The numerous knots in the rope
continued to tighten and. creak, and after having
passed through the narrow mouth I found myself
. suspended in a cylindrical chamber, in shape and
proportion not unlike that of the barrel of a gun.
The twisting of the rope caused me to revolve as I
was being lowered, which produced giddiness, and
there was the additional unpleasantness of vibrating
from side to side, and touching the sides of the well.
I suddenly heard the people from the top shouting to
tell me that I had reached the bottom, so wher I
began to move I found myself lying on my back at
the bottom of the well; looking up at the mouth the
opening seemed like a star. It was fortunate that I -
had been securely lashed to the rope, as I had
fainted during the operation of lowering. The well
is 75 feet deep, 7 feet 6 inches diameter, and is lined
throughout with rough masonry, as it is dug in
alluvial soil. The bottom of the well was perfectly
dry at this time of thé year (the month of May), and
covered with loose stones. - There was a little pitcher
lying at the bottom unbroken, and this was an
_ evidence of there being water_in the’well at some
seasons, as the pitcher would have been broken had
it fallen upon the stones, It is probable that the
JACOB'S WELL. 467
well was very much deeper in ancient times, for in
ten years it had decreased 10 feet in depth. Every
one visiting the wel throws stones down for the
satisfaction of hearing them strike the bottom, and in
this way, as well as from the débris of the ruined
chureh built over the well during the fourth century,
it has become filled up to probably more than a half
of its original depth. I was drawn up without
mishap, but was bumped about sadly from side to”
side in consequence of the Arabs pulling me up by
jerks, and at the same time the rope and its burden
revolved, My kind friend and host the German
missionary was glad to see me up again, and re-
marked, “ Now I had fear for you, lest the rope did
break.” The mouth of the well.is close to the
highroad from Jerusalem to Galilee.
The gardens in the Vale of Shechem were looking
very beautiful at this time (May 1). The fig-trees,
the latest of all, were in full leaf, and the people
commenced to reap in the plain on this day. It was
- high time too, for the young locusts were commencing
their ravages, and the people seemed really roused. to
exertion at this critical time.
While we were breaking up our camp and pre-
paring to start, the lepers of the town gathered
round the camp, making their piteous appeals for
money. These unfortunate people, both men and
woinen, were ordinarily found sitting on the heaps
outside the town wall, close to the wayside. They
were most distressing specimens of humanity. Most
of them without hands, some no teeth or hair, and
shunned by every one.
252
468 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
After leaving Nablis, the reconnaissance survey
was continued to the Jordan Valley, to fix the con-
fluence of the Zerka, the gr@t highway from the
east, and it was then necessary to return westwards
to trace the line of watershed that we found crossing
the vale of Sheechem between the town and Jacob’s
Well. On reaching the western ridge, the country
is very broken, and intersected by numberles ravines,
so narrow and tortuous that it is not safe to trust the
eye to mark out their courses, without traversing
their entire length. The nature of this part of the
country was consequently most unfavourable for
rapid: reconnaissance, and it was only found practi-
cable to fix the position of the prominent hills near
the dividing ridge. On the journey southwards
several points of great interest were visited and
surveyed, and among others the sites of Shiloh
and Ai.
The ruined village Seilain is the site of Shiloh,
where the Ark first rested after the capture of Ai
and Jericho, and where Joshua divided the newly-
conquered land of Canaan among the twelve tribes.
The position of Shiloh is accurately defined in the
Book of Judges to be on the north of Bethel, on the
south of Lebonah, and on the east of the highway
that goeth up from Bethel to Shechem. Thtre is
very little to mark the site now, but there are ruins
and a curious excavation in the rock in the side of
the hill which might have been the actual spot.where
the ark rested, for its custodians would na‘urally
select a place sheltered from the bleak winds that
prevail in these highlands. In a little valley about
BETHEL. 469
half a mile from the ruins are the spring and well of
Shiloh, and this must have been the spot where the
daughters of Shiloh, came out to dance at their
periodical festival. On one of these occasions the
survivors of the tribe of Benjamin carried off two
. hundred of them. There are many rock-hewn tombs
in this neighbourhood, but they have all been broken
into and ransacked. There is a pretty piece of plain
adjoining the ruins of Seiliin, which are otherwise
shut in by stony and deep valleys, torrent beds in .
the winter, and dry during the rest of the year.
Nine miles south of Shiloh is the modern village
of Beitin, the site of Bethel. Here there is nothing
but a heap of ruins, but on the bill adjoining and
east of Bethel are the remains of a fortified Christian
church, which was probably built by the early
Christians to consecrate the spot where Abraham
built his second altar after entering the Promised
Land, and where he separated from Lot. The latter,
attracted by the apparent fertility of the Jordan
Valley lying beneath him, contrasted with the barren-
ness of the stony ravines and ridges on the west-
ward, chose the country of the Jordan, and journeyed
eastwards to the shores of the Dead Sea. -The site of
Ai may be confidently assigned to a ruined hill-top
east of the church, called by the Arabs Et Tel, “the
heap.” This corresponds exactly to the description,
when we know the site of Bethel and the site of
Abraham’s encampment, where he built an altar; for
we read that he pitched his camp having Bethel on
' the west and Hai on the east. ‘There is a valley
behind the ruined heap where Joshua placed his
470 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
ambush. ‘There is the spot opposite, across the
intervening valley, where Joshua stood to give the
preconcerted signal; and there is the plain or ridge
down which the men of Ai hurried in pursuit of the
retreating Israelites, so that the men in ambush rose
and captured the city, and made it a “heap” (or a
“'Tel”) for ever. Mr. George Williams has pointed
out that the word which is translated “heap” in our
version exactly corresponds to the Arab rendering
“ Tel.”*
In passing through the highlands of the district
allotted to Ephraim, the rocky valleys and ridges
‘became more numerous and more sterile. Then, after
passing Bethel, we enter upon the land of Benjamin,
and find nothing but rocks and stones and ruined
heaps; and low ranges of hills without a prominent
peak or feature to vary the scene. From Bethel to
Jerusalem the great high road follows the line of
watershed; and, on both sides, valleys take their
rise, and become at once rocky ravines, descending
precipitously on the left hand to the Jordan, and on
the right hand more gradually to the Mediterranean.
After three and a half hours’ weary travelling from
Bethel, the last ridge is crowned, and the city of
Jerusalem, not half a mile distant, bursts into view.
Our “reconnaissance survey has embraced the
western highlands down to this point; and the
amount of work accomplished compared with what
remains to be done is as the seam of a coat to the
whole garment. The vast system of valleys east and
* See Quarterly Statement IV. Captain Wilson on the Site of
Ai.
URGENCY OF THE WORK. 471
west of the line we have followed has still to be
examined. There is not a hill-top on the ridges
between them that does not contain the ruins of
some ancient city; and the work that has been com-
menced should not cease till the topography of the
whole of Palestine has been carefully worked out.
The length of the Holy Land, from Dan to Beer-
_ sheba, is only 140 miles, and its breadth 60 miles ;
and yet this small area, the theatre of the most
engrossing portion of the world’s history from the
earliest times, still remains only partially explored.
A knowledge of its topography is indispensable for
an accurate comprehension of the varied scenes |
which are described, and without which the signifi-
cance of the records must remain more or less
obscure. We are unable as yet to trace with preci-
sion the course of any one of the boundaries of the
twelve tribes as described in the Book of Joshua; and
all subsequent topographical accounts will be intel-
ligible if the localities could be accurately determined.
The success which has hitherto crowned the efforts
of Dr. Robingon and other explorers in identifying
the old sites is sufficient to insure still further
‘discoveries following upon more extended examina-
tion. The land is now undergoing changes; the
people are dying out or migrating, the old habits
and customs are disappearing, and no time should be
lost in completing the work before the levelling hand
of civilization shall have effaced the relics of the
past.
472 RECOVERY. OF JERUSALEM, ~
ON THE POTTERY AND GLASS FOUND
IN THE EXCAVATIONS.
AurnoucH large quantities of pottery have been
found in the various excavations carried ‘on by the
Palestine Exploration Fund, few objects of very high
antiquity, and scarcely any of fine art, have been
discovered. The shafts and galleries having been
‘mostly sunk in masses of débris and in “ made
ground,” the fictile objects are generally in a frag-
mentary state; the few exceptions to this rule being
those disinterred from passages and tombs. Many of
the fragments, moreover, are of such a rude and
common description, that it is difficult to fix correctly
the date of their manufacture; and this the more so,.
since the commonest ware of different nations is pre-
cisely that which possesses the least distinctive charac-
teristics. It is the object of this Paper to describe
some of the more interesting specimens, and to assign
them, as nearly as may be, to the period and country
to which they belong.
And here, at starting, it must be confessed that no
specimen found as yet can be pronounced to be from
the workshop of a Jewish handicraftsman. Most of
.
PHGNICIAN POTTERY. 478
the earlier specimens were probably imported from
the opposite shores of the Greek islands, and in some
few instances from Italy; a few Pheenician vase-
handles and the Christian objects alone possessing
sufficient individaality to justify their assignment to
manufacturers within the limits of the Holy Land.
The pottery found in the excavations may con-
veniently be considered in the following order :
I. Pheenician Pottery.
II. Graco-Pheenician Pottery, i.e, Pottery made
in Cyprus and elsewhere, where there were
Pheenician colonies influenced by Greek
Culture. .
LI. Pottery of Roman manufacture.
IV. Christian Pottery.
V. Arabic Pottery.
I. Phenician Poitery.—The very interesting speci-
inens which may safely be referred to this head are
six vase-handles, found by Captain Warren on bead
of rich earth, from eight to ten feet in thickness,
lying on the rock at the south-eastern angle of the
Haram Enclosure, at the depth of sixty-three feet
from the present surface. ach of these handles
bears impressed upon it a more or less well-defined
figure, resembling in some degree a Bird, but believed
to represent a Winged Sun or Disc, probably the
emblem of the Sun-God, and possibly of royal power.
On each handle Phoenician letters appear above and
below the wings; and these, in two instances, have
been -interpreted by Dr. S. Birch, of the British
Museum, and imply that the vessels were made for
*
474 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
the aid use, or at all, events in a noid addins c
manufactury.
A. [See Figure.] LeMeLeK | ZePHa.—To . or
of King Zepha.
B. —— — LeK SHaT.—kKing Shat.
0. ————— _ LeK.—The letters which fol-
low are uncertain,
D, E, F. The letters are nearly obliterated on
these examples.
ANCIENT MARKS ON HANDLES OF VASES,
Another vase-handle, found in the same place, and
apparently of the same ware, bears as a potter's mark
a cross within a semicircular mark. This cross, it is
needless to remark, has no relation to the sign of
salvation.
When the rarity of Pheenician inscriptions of any
kind is taken into consideration, the importance of
these fragments, which are probably as old as the
Moabite Stone, will become apparent, and the prac-
tical importance of collecting and preserving even
the smallest pieces of pottery is proved, The letters
were not discovered until the handles were cleaned,
.
GRECO-PH@NICIAN POTTERY. 475
after their transmission to England. It may be
hoped that future discoveries may add to our know-
ledge of the royal personages now for the first time
indicated, and that the researches of the Association
may be hereafter rewarded by the finding of a frag-
ment of the work of the royal establishment of potters
mentioned in 1 Chron. iv. 28, as existing at Jeru-
salem.
II. Greco-Pheenician Pottery.—In the bed of solid
earth upon which the Pheenician vase-handles were
found, several broken lamps occurred. These are of
red or brownish ware, with one, two, or three lips,
and. seem adapted for the burning of fat rather than
oil, A specimen of the same period, remarkable as
having four lips, and in perfect preservation, was
found in a cave upon Olivet. Lamps of the same
design with the former of these have been found in
considerable numbers in the Island of Cyprus ( Chittim),
and also in the semi-Pheenician tombs in the rocks
of. Ben Gemmi, in Ma'ta. They are considered by
Mr. A. W. Franks to be of late date,—not earlier,
476 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
ie., than the second century before the Christian
- era. The position of the broken lamps and other
- pottery found with them may be accounted for by
the supposition that they were thrown down upon the
surface of the solid earth, and afterwards trodden in
before the accumulation of the superincumbent mass
of débris, or they may have been deposited with the
earth itself. Underneath this earth, and at the depth
of sixty-three feet from the surface, Captain Warren
discovered a small vase [see Figure], placed in a
ANCIENT JAB,
cavity scooped out of the rock, at three feet from the
angle of the Haram Wall. This-vase is of pale red
ware, and of a common Greco-Phenician type.*
The fact that the inscribed Phcenician’ vase-handles
were found above the last-named lamps and pottery
does not militate against the period to which the
latter have been attributed, for they may have’ been °
* See Quarterly Statement, 1869, No. I., p. 85.
GRHOO-PH@NICIAN POTTERY. 417
found in some ancient ctaelian- within the al,
and thrown over it after the deposition of the solid
earth, and before that of the looser soil which lies
above it. A considerable number of vases, dishes,
and pateras have also been found in various other
excavations, and notably in caves about Olivet.
Many of these vessels are of exactly the same type
as those found in the tombs of Ben Gemmi. They
had all, probably, a common place of manufacture in
Cyprus or some other of the Greek islands, which, as
especially Rhodes, are known to have imported
largely to Alexandria. In this last city vase-handles
are constantly found bearing the Rose of Rhodes and
the names of the Greek potter who made them. One
fragment alone bearing a pure Greek inscription was
found on Ophel. A dish of brown ware, measuring
ten inches in diameter, and found in a cave near
Olivet, is remarkable for having its feet perforated
like handles, as if for the purpose of suspension when
the utensil is not in use.
ANCIENT DISH.
Two circular discs, each pierced with two holes,
and an oblong object, resembling an unengraved
stamp, found at Saida, probably belong to this period.
478 RECOVERY OF ee
Satie suppose “SEN Bigatti were aided as = ene *
looms.
Of a different character from the above are a few
specimens, less than a score in number, which may
be safely asserted to be of the Graco-Phoenician fabric
of Cyprus. These are of yellowish colour, profusely
ornamented with barred and interlaced patterns of
dark red. The designs strongly resemble those seen
on the pottery of the aboriginal Kabyle Mountaineers
of Algeria, and on that of the almost unknown Riff
People of the Empire of Marocco. The largest speci-
men is‘a portion of a large single-handled jar, and,
from the perforated stoppage in the interior of the
neck, like that of an Egyptian “ Gulleh,” was probably
used for water. It was found at the depth of nineteen
feet in the Muristan, and is here figured in conjunction
3
wre =
“oy
GRACO-PHGINICIAN POTTERY. 479
with a smaller fragment from the same spot. (ae
Figure.] Large quantities of precisely similar pottery
have been found from time to time in Cyprus, and a
fine collection has recently been added to the Royal
=e
Museum at Turin. , Specimens also exist in the
British Museum and in the Louvre.
Excavations at the Birket Israil, the Muristan, and
on Ophel have produced six fragments of vases,
which, with a perfect specimen obtained by Captain
Warren from the French Consul at Saida (Sidon),
are among the most curious objects in the possession
of the Association. They are here described with very
great hesitation as belonging to this division, and
considerable doubt exists as to their proper appro-
Ppriation. Several precisely similar vases exist in the
_ Egyptian Collection in the British Museum, one of
which. was presented by Sir Gardner Wilkinson ; but
in no instance is the locality of their discovery stated
in the Register. Two are figured in the “ Antiquités
dRegypte,” Vol. V., Plate 76, Nos. 8 and 16; but
480 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
here, again, strangely enough, though engraved along
with specimens of vases from Thebes -and Sakkara,
they are simply described as “other vases.” These
curious vessels are all of an extremely hard, massive,
black ware, coated in three instances with a dark
crimson glaze, perhaps produced by cinnabar. Five
‘out of the seven specimens, including the perfect one,
are in the shape of the Thyrsus, or pine-cone, so often
represented on ancient monuments and gems as the
symbol of Dionysus.* The neck, in the two instances
where it is preserved, is short, and the orifice ex-
tremely small. The apex of the cone being down-
wards, it is evident that these vases were not intended
to stand upright. [See Figure.] It was difficult to
we
VASE FOUND AT BIRKET ISRAIL.
ee
assign a use to these singular vessels; but the problem
has apparently been solved in the following manner:
* The cone, if such it be, is in each case fluted, and may, there-_
fore, represent some other seed or fruit. Three of the British
Museum specimens are likewise fluted.
_ ROMAN POTTERY. 481
The w writer passed a tet quill ee then narrow w neck,
and scraped the inner surfage of the perfect vase.
By this means pieces were détached apf a grey sub-
stance; which, on being analysed by Professor N.
Maskelyn, proved to be small flakes of decomposed
bees’-wax, and amongst these appeared several small
globules of quicksilyer in its usual state. It there-
fore seems almost: certain that these vases were designed
for the importation or preservation of quicksilver, a use
to which their massiveness, weight, and the narrow-
ness of the neck, which would insure easy stopping,
would render them peculiarly appropriate. The bees’-
wax was doubtless used for closing the orifice.
III. Roman Pottery.—Considering the great abun-
dance of Roman ware which is commonly found in
places of Roman occupation, it is singular that very
* few specimens have been found in the excavations.
A fragment of the so-called “Samian” ware was
discovered near Wilson’s Arch, in a passage leading
south ; another came from Ophel, at the distance of
fifty-two feet from the surface, and a third was found
elsewhere. This last piece has an interesting potter's
mark :mpressed upon the bottom inside: it is in the
shape of a foot, with distinctly-marked and elongated
toes, .and the letters CANRI.* [See Figure.]_ To
* Mr. W. “Chatters, in his “Marks and Monograms on Dotbiey
and Porcelain,” p. 13, figures a very similar mark, and ascribes
this waro to Aretium (Arezzo). F
ae
482 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
the Roman period, also, belong three or four Jamps of
late date and poor design ; a jar covered with circular
horizontal flutings of a type common in Egypt, —
where it was perhaps nade; some earthenware
water-pipes from the so-called “ Bath of Helena,”
east of Olivet; and the fragments of a large amphora
of pale red ware, stamped with a curious potter’s
mark, This reads BARNAE, and implies that it
was the work or from the shop of Barna or Barnas,
a very peculiar and unusual name, and one probably
of Jewish origin. The two syllables of the name
are arranged above and below a monogram. [See
Figure.] This amphora seems to be of late work;
~~
it was found by Captain Warren eight feet deep in
the mound at Wady Kelt, near Jericho. A small
vase with a single handle covered with a shining
brown glaze is also probably Roman; it was found
near Saida.
Il. Christian Pottery—Of pottery which can un-
hesitatingly be assigned to the Christian period the
Association possesses a large series of lamps. Some
of these are distinguished by extremely curious
CHRISTIAN POTTERY. 483
inscriptions, and most of them possess a local
character which is extremely interesting. Many
lamp-types of more Western Christendom, from the
Catacombs of Rome, Syracuse, and Carthage, such as
the Good Shepherd, the Sacred Monogram BP, the
Dove, the Cock of St. Peter, and the Chalice, are
entirely absent; and the same may be said of the
disgusting and probably Gnostic device of the Toad -
associated with the Cross, so often found in the
Catacombs of Alexandria and elsewhere in Egypt.
The earthenware bottles with the effigy of St. Menas,
an Hgyptian Saint who flourished in the fourth
century, and whose name recalls the first Egyptian
king, so commonly found with Christian lamps in
Egypt, are also absent. The usual symbols of the
Jerusalem lamps, which are all of a rude and cheap
description, and which give an affecting indication
of the poverty of the “Saints” of the carly Church
of Jerusalem, are the Cross, the very Sign of their
Salvation ; the Seven-branched Candlestick, which
reminded them not only of the dimmed glories
of Zion, but of Him who is the Light of the World;
and the Palm Branch, which was dear to them not
merely for its own exquisite grace and beauty, but
by its association with Psalm xcii., with the Gospel
narrative, John xti, 13, and with the Apocalyptic
Vision, wherein the glorified saints are described as
“¢lothed with white robes and palm branches in
their hands,” Rev. vii. 9. These emblems, which
the Christians of the “Mother of Churches” used
and rejoiced in, in common with their brethren in
more Western lands. are all more or lese eonvan.
484 RECO VERY OF JERUSALEM.
tionalized in dies tr sete: ‘hid are represented in in
a distinctive and different manner, occurring in every
instance, not as is usual in the West and even in
Egypt, in the centre, but along the edge and near the
outer lips of the lamps, which are pear-shaped, and
in no instance round. Uninscribed round lamps of a
different description have, nevertheless, been disco-
vered, and probably belong to this period, [See
Figure. }
The following inscriptions occur ; they are written
in barbarous Greek, the words being often misspelt,
CHRISTIAN ‘POTTERY. 485.
as the lettets frequently feaca topatinan: or igs
upside down. It is noticeable that one form of the
A which is used, is that whichis constantly found
upon contemporary work in Egypt, and indeed is
frequently employed as a potter’s mark for ware
made at Alexandria, which seems to have been to
Hgypt what Stoke and Worcester are to England,
and Dresden to Germany.
1. LVXNVRIA KALV A Seven-branched Candle-
stick, conventionalized. The first word is not classical
Greek, but the inser iption seems to signify ‘* Good,”
or “ Beautiful ul Lamps.”
2. O>WC XV %ENINACIN, A Cross, This mis-
spelt inscription -may be translated, “The Light of
Christ shines forth,” or “gives light to all.” [See
Figure. |}* ,
LAMP WITH CHRISTIAN INSCRIPTION.
3. 6WC XV %ENNACIN, followed by two letters
“whose meaning has not been explained. A ‘con-
* Compare a lamp in the Museum at Leyden, which bears the
inscription 9™WC E= OWTOS, Light of Light.
» 486 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
ventionalized Seven-branched Candlestick. There are
several specimens of this type.
4. The inscription on this lamp appears to begin
with the letters 1X@, which may stand for Incous
Xpioros Ocos, or it may possibly allude to our Lord
under the well-known symbol of the Fish, 1X@VS, the
letters of which form the initials of the Greek
-equivalent of “Jesus Christ, the Son of God, the
Saviour.”
Some other lamps have a running pattern of the
conventionalized tendrils, leaves, and fruit of the
vine, executed. with considerable freedom and
LAMP,—POOL OF BETHESDA,
elegance; but although they exhibit something of
Greek freedom of treatment, they may probably be
assigned to the Christian period, and the design may
have reference to the mystery of the Holy Eucharist.
[See Figure.] One of the Jerusalem lamps bears the
ARABIC POTTERY. 487
letters I+ I, probably for Jesus; and another of
somewhat different fabric, besides two palm branches,
exhibits a tree within a circular fence. It may be
conjectured that this is intended to represent . the
Tree of Life. The writer has seen. a somewhat
similar tree in a mediwval Hebrew map of the Holy
Land. The Christian Jamps have been found not
only in tombs but in numerous other excavations in
and about Jerusalem. It is remarkable that none of
them bear potters’ marks on the under side.
V. Arabic Pottery—Of Arabic pottery scarcely
anything of importance has been discovered, Among
the specimens are two or three pots covered with a
green glaze, and numerous fragments of domestic
use. Perhaps the most interesting object under this
head is a small lamp found in an excavation at the
Muristan, at a depth of twelve feet. It is coloured
white, barred with blue and black lines. Though the
ancient classical form—which indeed still lingers in
the South of Europe, in, the East, and, it is said,
even in Germany—has to.some extent been preserved
in this specimen, it may nevertheless be considered a
work of Arab art, as the texture, glaze, and patterns
are precisely like those on pieces of undoubted Arabic
pottery found by the writer upon the mounds of
Musr Ateekeh, or Old Cairo, the ancient Fostat of
the Arabian conquerors of Egypt. A few morsels
of Cufic inscriptions on green and yellow ware, have
been found at Birket Israil and at Ain-es Sultan,
from which also was obtained a fragment of a blue
and white dish representing “two birds amongst
488 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
foliage.* It should be mentioned here that: the
Society possesses a few specimens of Arabic wall-
tiles, one of which, with a characteristic blue pattern
on ‘a pale green ground, is from the Great Mosque
at Damascus, formerly the Church of St. John
Baptist. ; :
Glass.—Besides pottery great quantities of frag-
ments of ancient glass have turned up in the various
excavations. Most of these, although extremely
beautiful from their iridescent colours—the result of
decomposition—are of little or no importance. Not
even a single portion of such beautiful bottles of
opaque and wavy glass as those yielded by the tombs
of Saida and its neighbourhood, and only two
variegated beads, such as those which may still be
obtained from the peasant-lads of Tyre,.have as yet
‘been discovered: One vase, however, found with
Gresco-Phoenician pottery in a sepulchral ‘cave on
Olivet, merits attention from its rare and peculiar
form. It is double, with two handles, and a third, now
unfortunately broken, originally arched over the top.
The colour is a pale green, with circular and zig-zag
lines running over it in rélief, of a much darker tint,
approaching to blue, [See Figure.] To the Roman
period belong several fragments of glass mosaic of
the ordinary type, which have been found in various
parts of the excavations. Of Arabic glass three
lamps are worthy of especial notice. Two of these
* This is but one out of many proofs that Mahommedans are by
“no means so consistent in rejecting forms of animal life as is
vulgarly supposed.
GLASS. 489
are of a pale green colour, with three dark blue
rings or handles, by which they were formerly sus-
pended by means. of chains, and contain perforated
stems designed apparently to hold a wick. [See
Figure. ]
490 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
These lamps may be advantageously compared
with the more magnificent and inscribed specimens
brought from Cairo, and now in the Slade Collection
in the British Museum, and with those purchased
by the nation from Dr. Meymar and now at South
Kensington. A very few of like form may yet be
seen in some of the oldest Coptic Dayrs, or Con-
vents, and in the Mosques in the neighbourhood
and city of Cairo. The present specimens were
found by Captain Warren in a rock-cut and vaulted”
chamber in a passage leading down to the Fountain .
of the Virgin. The third specimen is of smaller
size; it is likewise of a pale green tint, the three
handles being of the same colour, and, like the other
examples, contains a central stem for the wick.*
GreviLie J, Curster, B.A., M.R.A.L
- * Tt is right to state thet this paper was written under pressure
of other work, as the contributor originally appointed was pre-
vented by sudden illness from undertaking it.
491
NOTES ON MISCELLANEOUS OBJECTS
FOUND IN THE EXCAVATIONS.
BY GREVILLE 3, CHESTER.
Tur following brief notes have been drawn up in the hope that they
may aid porsons wishing to have their attention drawn to the most
interesting objects in the collection of the Palestine Exploration
Fund. These, 2s will be seen, are but few in number, a fact to be
accounted for by the narrowness, and by the small area occupied
by the shafts and excavations as compared with the vast mass of
débris in which they have been sunk. The objects have been
arranged for the sake of convenience, according to the material of
which they are formed.
Objects made of Stone.
1. A shallow trough, 18 inches in diameter, made of lime-
stone. It was found at a depth of 27 feet on Ophel. Another and
smaller specimen, 64 inches in diameter, and formed of hard
stone, probably from the Hauran,* was discovered by E. H. Rogers,
Esq., late Her Britannic Majesty’s Consul at Damascus, in the Mound
of Tell Salahiyeh, near that city. These troughs were probably
used for pounding grain, and preparing it for food. They are not
unfroquontly found with Roman remains, but may possibly belong
to an earlier period.
2, Balls of flint and other stone. Several balls of flint wero
* The voleanic stone of the Hauran is to this day used for mill-stones,
which are brought down on the backs of camels to Tyre and other plaecs on
the cuast fur exportation,
492 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
found by Captain Warren, near the Pool of ‘Siloam, i in n tie “Valley
of the Kedron. Another ball of like size is formed of some hard
volcanic rock. Similar balls have been found in this and other
countries of Europe. Their use is still a problem to antiquaries.
Certain American tribes use stone balls in the preparation of food,
heating them red hot and then throwing them into skins filled with
water, in which flesh has been placed in order to be cooked. The
balls have thence been named “pot-boilers.” It is possible that
some of the present specimens may have been intended to serve
this use, although flint, from its liability to crack when heated,
would not be the best stone for the purpose. Some of the balls
which have been partially worked into facets were probably used as
mullers fox pounding grain. Somo larger balls, formed of lime-
stone, and found at Jorusalom, are supposed by some to have been
used as missiles to be hurled from a Balista, This is possible, as
Vitruvius mentions one so small as to throw a stone of only two
pounds weight.*
3. Stone weights. A number of these were found in shafts at
Ophel, Robinson’s Arch, and elsewhere. Their approximate mie
has been given by Captain Warren in “Quarterly
Statement” No. VI, p. 330. One, with supposed
Hebrew characters, found at Robinson’s Arch, is here
figured. [See Figure.] Another weight has upon
cither side the following mark. It was found in a pas-
sage above the Virgin’s Fount, and weighs 2301-8 grains troy.
* Dict. Greck and Roman Antiquities. Art. © Tormentum2*
MISCELLANEOUS OBJECTS. 493
4. In the samo passage was found a round object of soft stone,
bosring in its centre a circular mark, surrounded by a much
obliterated inscription in Greek letters. It seems to be a stamp of
the’ Christian period. Somewhat similar stamps were used in
making the Eucharistic Bread.
&. Small seal of hard close-grained black stone. This is one of
the few Jewish objocts discovered by the Society. It was found at
the south-west angle of the Haram Area. The inscription is in old
Hobrew charactors arranged in two lines. [Sco Figure.] It records
the name of the ownor, Haggai, son of Shebniah. Its discovery is
narrated above, p. 132.
BEAL OF HAGGAI (FULL SIZE).
6. Head of limestone; Late Roman Period, found in the English
eometory west of the Holy City.
7. Three sepulchral chests of the Christian Period found in the
neighbourhood of Jerusalem, These ero among the most interesting
objects found. They are all formed of white or pale-red limestone,
aud tho style of their oxecution is of considerable clegance. When
discovered, they contained human bones and skulls, and it is much
to be regretted that the latter were not preserved. Captain Warren
states that the skulls and other bones found in these chests are
“gonorally adult.” They must therefore have been disinterred for
some particular reason and placed in the chests after the détom-
position of the bodies. Is it possible that the individuals thus
interred were martyrs ignominiously buried at first, and afterwards
exhumed and honoured with more carefal interment ?*
Chest No. 1. This is formed of reddish limestone, and measures
$2 inches in length, by 194 inches in height, to the top of the rounded
lid.) It was found in a cave in the Valley of the Convent of the
Cross, and contained a skull and a few bones. The front is orna~
mentéd by three roundels, containing © kind of star ornament, the
contral one having a pillar with a large capital upon either side.
* In some places at the present time, as in certain Italian convents and at
Stanz, Canton Unterwalden, it is customary to dig up the bones or skulls of
the dead after they have been buried a certain time, and then to arrange them
fantastically or with the names attached in churchcs or erypts.
ta
494 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
The whole design is surrounded by well-executed wreaths of leaves,
resembling those of the bay or laurel. The front of the lid bears
in low relief a series of eight arches upon pillars, with small
roundel in the midst of each arch. [Sce p. 805, and Figure.]
Chest No, 2. This oxample, which also covtained bones, was found
in a cave north of the English sanatorium, about a mile from
Jerusalem. It measures 20 inches in length, by 19} inches in
height, and stands upon four fect or pedestals at the angles. The
matcrial is white limestone. The ornaments are roundels enclosing
stars and other designs, with a kind of chevron moulding between ;
roundels are also found on the lid.
Chest No. 3. This chost is 27 inches long by 13 inches high, and,
unlike the other examples, has a perfectly flat and unadorticd top.
The ornaments on the front are two roundcls. Jt was found ina
cave near Bethany, and contained a human skull and bones.
Numerous examples of these mortuary chests have been found
near Jcrusalom.
Objects made of Metal. :
1. Dagger of bronze, found with pottery (probably Greeo-
Pheenician), in a sepulchral cave, cast of Olivet. A portion of the
- wooden handle still adheres to the base. ;
2. Bronze boss of a shield found at Robinson’s Arch at the sonth
ond of the Bridge, at a depth of 85 feet. Roman.
MISCELLANEOUS OBJECTS. 495
8. Copper lamp-stand. Apparently of the Byzantine period.
Found in a cavern 160 feet south of the Haram Area.
COPPER LAMI-STAND.
4, Small head of bronze, apparently a portion of a larger object.
Probably Phoenician, or Greco-Phonician from Cyprus.
6. Small Christian ring of bronze, found outside St. Stephen’s
Gate, ina cave lined with Joculi, or shelves for the dead, along with
a sepulchral chest. Christian lamps were found in the same
cave.
7. Bronze head of the cobra serpent; the breast was formerly
enamelled. Pure Egyptian; from the head of a god.
Objects of shell, ivory, and wood.
1. Five objects from the Mound of Tell Salahiyeh, near
Damascus. Three are round and one square. They are formed by
cutting sections from the shell of a conus, or some other species of
shell, and were probably part of a rude necklace.
2. Three pieces made of ivory, and belonging to some game,
Found at Ophel.
4, Fragments of carved cedar wood, found with pieces of white
marble lattice-work, in a Christian church, discovered about three-
quarters of a mile north of Ain es Sultan. (Jericho.)
496 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
THE MOABITE STONE.
Harp.y any discovery has ever been made which
has’ excited so widely extended an interest as the
*Moabite Stone. Other graffiti, such as those of
Assyria, are found year by year, which bear more or —
less directly upon Jewish history, and are published
in journals without producing an interest at all
proportionate to their real value. The great and
immediate excitement produced by this record of
' King Mesha is due chiefly, of course, to the utterly
unexpected nature of the discovery afid the publicity
given to it. The Assyrian inscriptions have to find
their way slowly into public notice. Those few
scholars who are interested in them get their informa-
tion bit by bit as it comes out; and there is no volume
‘generally known, or easily accessible to those who
do not follow the discoyeries, which gives the
results of the deciphering of these monuments. The
Moabite Stone, however, has another and a deeper
claim upon our interest. It does not merely confirm
or illustrate the narrative of the Second Book of
Kings; it adds to our knowledge. It appears to be
the contemporancous record, from the Moabite point
HISTORICAL, ASPECT. 497
of view, gf the rebellion: of that King Mestia who,
after a serugele whose duration is uncertain, and which
is first noticed in a single verse (2 Kings i. 1) by the
sacred historian, was finally overcome by the com-
bined armies of Judah and Israel. It commemorates
his successes and triumphs; it explains how he
wrested towns from his old enemies, and rebuilt the
ruined cities of his own country; it shows that
his wars were, to a certain extent, religious, that the
King believed himself to be undef the Divine
guidance; and that no expedition was made unless #
by express direction of the god Chemosh or Chamos,
This unexpected record of a nation entirely perished*
and passed away could not fail to be of the greatest
possible interest, Slight as may appear its con-
tributions to history, it has a very real value, if it.
were only for the human interest it gives to that
shadowy king who, brought to bay at last, when all
his new-built towns were destroyed, all his cisterns
and wells filled up, and all his good land marred,
slew his eldest son upon the wall as a burnt-offering
to the god Chemosh, by whose advice he was ruled;
and, with that supreme act of despair, vanishes for
ever out of history.
To the unscholarly world, then—that majority of
mankind who are unacquainted with Assyrian and
Pheenician literature, and care little about the
history of alphabets—the historical interest of the
stone is its chief interest. It will be shown directly.
that this is not-its only, or, indeed, its most con-_
siderable element of importance. Let us first
‘ narrate bristly the story of its discovery, and
2.
498 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
the eiesaneisnoes Shia led to its eatucnone=h
which, although the fullest accounts have been pub-
lished in the Quarterly Statements of the Palestine
Exploration Fund, almost all writers have made
mistakes.
The circumstances were these :
In August, 1868, the Rev. F. A. Klein, an
Anglican clergyman, attached to the Jerusalem
Mission Society, was travelling to Jebel Ajloon and
the Belka. On the 19th of that month, he arrived at
Dibin, the ancient, Dibon. Here he was received
with friendliness by a tribe of the Beni-Hamideh,
encamped near the ruins, and was informed by
Zattam, scheikh of the Beni-Sades, who accompanied
him, and by the friendly scheikh of the Beni-Hamidch,
of the existence of an inscribed stone, which had
been seen by no European whatever. It must be
remembered that the situation of Diban, east of the
Dead Sea, and a few miles north of the Wady
Mojeb (Arnon), renders it peculiarly inaccessible.
Very fow travellers have ever visited the place, and
the ruins in the country of Moab have never been
thoroughly examined. The sun was setting as Mr.
Klein arrived at the spot where this relic of anti-
quity was lying. He had no time to do more than
take a sketch, with measurements of the stone, and
copy a few of the words. He found the stone one
métre thirteen centimétres in height, seventy centi-
métres in breadth, and thirty-five in thickness. “It
was,” he says, “in a perfect state of preservation, not
one single piece being broken off; and it was only
from great age and exposure to the rain and sun that
«
DISCOVERY. 499
certain parts, especially the upper and lower lines,
had somewhat suffered.”
It is greatly to be regretted that Mr. Klein did
not take a squeeze, rubbing, or some kind of copy: of
the inscription. He formed, instead, the idea of
getting the stone to the Museum of Berlin; and
communicated, in -secret, his discovery to Dr. Peter-
mann, the Prussian Consul, who took measures,
through -his own Government, to get possession of
the stone. The negotiations were entrusted first to
one, and then to a second Arab, but without. any
success—the greediness of the Arabs being an insu-
perable obstacle, It was at this point that Captain
Warren first heard of it, nothing having been told
him either by Mr. Klein or Dr. Petermann. Captain
Warren, however, hearing from Mr. Klein at. the
same time that the Prussians were moving in the
matter, thought it best, on all accounts, to abstain
from any action which might rouse the cupidity and
jealousy of the Arabs. Nor was it till the spring of
1869 that he felt himself at liberty to mention the
subject ; when, on hearing an account of it from
the ‘Rev. Dr. Barclay, who told him and M.
Clermont Ganneau what was being done, he wrote to
Hingland on the matter. By the néxt mail, however,
he wrote again, stating that the Prussian Consul
had obtained a firman for the stone; and that, con-
sequently, information on the subject must be got
from Berlin before anything more could be done.
All this time, it must be remembered, no squeeze or
‘copy of the inscription had been taken; its real
value was quite unknown, and, in consequence of the
> 2142
500 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
protracted negotiations, the jealousy and greed of the
Arabs were being roused thereby more and more.
In July, 1869, Captain Warren left Jerusalem for-
the Lebanon, and did not return till November. On
the road, half way up from Jaffa, on his return, an
‘Adwin met him, with the story of the destruction
of the stone. Captain Warren instantly sent him off
with squeeze paper to take an impression of what
was left; for M. Ganneau had, early in November,
sent down an Arab with instructions to obtain, if
possible, authority to take a squeeze of the inscription.
This was granted after some difficulty; but while
the squeeze was still wet, a quarrel arose among
the Beni-Hamideh, blows were exchanged, and
M. Ganneau’s messenger, tearing off the wet impres-
sion, had only time to spring upon his horse and
escape by flight, bringing with him the squeeze in
rags, and receiving a spear wound in the leg. After
this, the Arabs lit a fire under the stone, and throwing
cold water upon it, broke it into fragments. Little
could be done with the impression—the only one, such
as it is, that remains of the complete stone.
Captain Warren’s Arab, however, returning with
good squeezes. of the two large fragments yet
remaining, M. Gahneau at the same time succeeding
in getting two squeezes of the same, and certain
smaller fragments of the stone finding their way to
Jerusalem, a first attempt was made by M. Ganneau
at deciphering the > inscription.
By the same mail there arrived in Europe
M. Ganneau’s first translation and Captain Warren’s
tracings of bis squeezes. The former.was published
DISCOVERY. 501
referred by the Committee of the Palestine Ex-
ploration Fund to Mr. Deutsch.
The history of the stone is nearly ended at this
point. Another and a more perfect squeeze was
got by Captain Warren; further emendations were
furnished by M. Ganneau. The tracings sent home
by Captain Warren were photographed and published.
The large fragments were bought up by M. Ganneau,
and small fragments by Captain Warren; and, as the
matter at present stands, out of one thousand letters,
which at first were cut upon the stone, the number
actually preserved amounts to six hundred and sixty-
nine,* or nearly. seven-tenths of the whole. There
is reason to hope that by degrees every fragment of
the stone will find its way to Europe, and this
invaluable - inscription wholly put together again.
Until this is either done, or till it becomes quite clear
that it cannot be done, all attempts at translation
must be premature, and can only lead to controversy
and dispute. On this point, viz. the expediency
of waiting till the materials for as complete a
translation as possible should arrive in England,
Mr. Deutsch, in three separate letters to the “'Times,”
dwelt with great emphasis, And while he pointed
out the gains to: paleography and Semitic science,
he abstained from enlarging on its historical im-
«portance. “It will be well,” he urged, “if both the
learned and the public at large hold their hand for
a brief space yet. At this moment there-fs but one
thing certain: that, whether we _éyver_ recover the
* of these letters M. Ganneau obtained 613, and Captain
Warren 56,
502 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
whole of the stone—the fate of which is still uncertain
‘—~or must remain satisfied with but half-intelligible
fragments, the gain to palzography and Semitic
science is already enormous. It is, unquestionably,
whatever the precise date of this King Mesha, the
very oldest Semitic lapidary record of importance as
yet discovered. And, apart from certain geo-
graphical and otlier data given in it which are
already incontestable, it illustrates to a hitherto
unheard-of degree the history of our own writing—
I mean that which we all use at this hour, Nearly
the wholewf the Greek alphabet is found here; not
merely ‘similar to the ‘Phonician’ shape, but as
identical with it as can well be. Not merely such
letters as the A, P, M, N, 2, E, O, Q (Koppa), &e., but
even the H—one of the letters supposed to have been
added during the Trojan War by Palamedes, because
not extant in the original ‘ Cadmean’ alphabet—is of
constant occurrence here (as Samech). Further, will
the knotty digamma question receive a new con-
tribution, by the shape of the vau in this monument,
which is distinetly the Greek Y—another letter of
supposed recent origin. . . . And another thing will
become clear, viz., that the more primitive the
characters, the simpler they become; notyas often
supposed, the more complicated, as more in accordance
with some pictorial prototype.”
The advice of Mr. Deutsch has not been followed.
Treatise after treatise has been issued from the
English, German, and French press. These are
necessarily all based on the imperfect materials at
present in Europe, and all, consequently, obliged .to
resort to conjecture. ‘To show the judicious nature
of
FIRST TRANSLATION. 503
Mr. Deutsch’s aopemnenlaaon: the first aud last
translations, between which is an interval of five
months, by M. Clermont Ganneau are subjoined ;
and, to illustrate the discrepancies caused by con-
jecture, the translation of Professor Schlottmann,
dated March 15, 1870, is printed side by side with
the latest rendering of M. Ganneau.
ew
10.
1
12
13.
14.
I.
(Date, January 16th, 1870.)
. Tam Mesa, son of Chamos (nadab ?] King .
« || My father reigned over Moab .. . and I hive...
: reigned after my father. || And I have ‘construcd” this high
place (sanctuary) with its platform (?) for Chamos .
. [I call myself] Mesa, because he (Chamos) has saved me from
all the... . . to both tho (?)
. .. » of the King of Isracl . . . and he oppressed Moab . .
Chamos was angry .
a cba oe wale || and he changed it. . I will oppress (I have
oppressed?) Moab. || In my days I have (he has?) said...
. and I saw him, hin and his house (his temple ?). {| And
Israel was dispersed, dispersed for ever, and Omri gained
possession of . . .
. Mecdeba (?) and remained there . . . he constructed forty...
. When Chamos is (reigning) in my days (to-day). || And I
built Baal Moon, and I sacrificed there || dnd I built . . . .
Qiriathaim || And... tooktheland ..... formerly ; and
built
the King of Israel the (city of) .... || And I fought at
Qir gor, I made the siege) and I took it || and I killed all
the...
paces (sacrifice ?) for Chamos and for Moab |] . .
Sree me before the face of Chamos, at Qerioth || and I there
made prisoners the (old?) men and the...
of the youth (morning). || And Chamos said to me . . Go!
have dominion over Isracl. {j
. I went by night, and I fought with him from the .. . of the
dawn to midday, || aundI....
De Manan entirely .. .
“7
504 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM:
Iv... . who is for Astar Chamos.... 0 | ;
18... Jahveh (Jehovah?) . ... before’the face of Chanios.
|| And the King of Israel [came to] re
19. Yahas, and dwelt there (until?) my combat with him. || And
Chamos drove him from . . .
20. I took of Moab two hundred men in all, |j and I made them.
go up to Yahaz,andI... ‘
21... . on Dibon. || It is I who built the esplanade (?), the walls
of Yearim (?), and the walls of... . ;
py ree And itis I who have built its gates, and it is I who
have built its fortress, |] and it is :
23, I who have built Bet-Moloch, |! and it is I who have made
the two...
24... . Qir || and there were no wells in the interior of Qir on
its esplanade. And I said to all the people,
26. “Make every man a well in his house.” || It is I who have
offered the holocaust on the esplanade (?) in
26... . Israel. || Is is 1 who have built Aroér (?) and it is T
who have made the road of Arnon.
27. It is I who have built Bet-Bamoth, which was destroyed (?) ||
* It is I who have built Bosor, which . . .
+ 28. .... Dibon, of the military chiefs, because all Dibon was
«* Subject, || and I have 7
. 29... . with the cities: which I have added to the earth, || and
it ia I who have built...
30..... Bet Diblathaim || and Bet Baal Meon, and I have
erected there the . . —~
31... . the land. || And Horonaim, where resided . .
32. . . . Chamos said to me . . “Fight at Horonaim.” , And I
33... Chamos ... on. . —
Bee th oe eae
Subjoined are, side by side, the version of Professor
Schlottmann, and the latest (June 15), published by
the Count de Vogiié, received from M. Clermont
Ganneau.
M. Clermont Ganneau. Professor Schlotimann:
T am Mesa, son of Chamos- I Mesa, son of Chamos-
_ gad, King of Moab, the Dibo- nadab, the King of Moab [son of]
nite, | My father reigned over Yabni. My father ruled over
LAST TRA
NSLATIONS. ~ 505
‘Moab thirty years, and I have
xeigned after my father. | And
I have built this sanctuary for
Chamos in Qarha [sanctuary of
salvation}, for he hag saved me
from all aggressors, and has
made me look upon all my
enemies with contempt. |
Omri was King of Israel, and
oppressed Moab during many
days, and Chamos was irritated
. st his aggressions. | And his
son succecded him, and he said,
he also, “ L will oppress Moab.” |
In my days, I said “I will. .
him. .... and I will visit
him and his house.” | And Israel
was ruined, ruined for ever.
Omri gained possession of the
land of Me-doba. | And he dwelt
there... . [Abab] his son lived
forty yous: and Chamos made
him [perish] in my time. |
Then I built Baal Meon and
constructed Qiriathaim |
And the men of Gad dwelt
in the country of [Atarojth
from ancient times, and the King
of Isracl had built the city of
Ataroth. | I attacked the city
and I took it,| and I killed
all the people of the city, a
spectacle to Chamos and to
. Moab, | and I carried away from
there the . . . and I dragged it
on the ground before the face of
Moab [se gage and I ruled
after my father, And I made
this high place of sacrifice
to Chamos in Korcha, a high
place of deliverance, for ho
saved me from ail [who fought
against Moab.] -
Omri, King of Isracl, allied
himself with all his (Moab’s)
haters, and they oppressed Moab
{many days]: then Chamos was
irritated fageinst him and
against] his land, and let it go
over [into the hand of his
haters], and they oppressed Moab
very sore.
In my days spoke Ch(amos),
I will therefore look upon him
and his house, and Israel shall
perish in eternal ruin, And Omri
took possession of the town of
Medeba, and sat therein (and
they oppressed Moab, he and] his
son, forty years. [Then] Chamos
looked upon Moab in my days.
And I built Baal Meon, and
made therein walls and mounds.
And I went to take the town of
Kirjathaim, and the men of Gad
[lived] in the district [of Kirja-
thaim] from days of their grand-
fathers, and the King of Israel
built Kirjathaim. And I fought
against the town, and took it,
and I strangled all the people
that were in the city fas a
sacrifice] to Chamos, the God
of Moab, ;
506
RECO VERY OF JERUSALEM.
Chamos at Qerioth, | and I
brought there the men of Saron
(or of Chofen) and the men of
Maharouth (?).
And Chamos said to mo,
“Go; take Nebah from Israel.”
| L went by night, and I fought
against the city from the dawn
to midday, | and I took it: and
I killed all, seven thousand [men,
and I. carried away with me]
the women and the young girls;
for to Astar Chamos belongs
the consecration of women ; | and
I brought from there the vessels
of Jehovah, and I dragged them
on the ground before the face of
Chamos, |
And the King of Isracl had
built Yahas, and resided there
during his war with me. | And
Chamos drove him from before
my face: I took from Moab two
hundred men in all; I made
them go up to Yehas, and I
took if to annex it to Dibon. |
(Here follows a lacuna: at the end
of it the words “before the face of
Chamos in Kirjathaim.” Probably
stood here, just as in lines 17-18, a
notice of the change of an Israclitish
to a Moabite sanctuary.)
- And I destroyed the High
Placo of Jehovah, and dedicated
it before the face of Chamos in
Kirjathaim. And I allowed to
dwell therein the men of ... .
and the men of ....
And Chamos said to me,
“Go up. Take [the town of}
Nebo against Israel . . .” and I
went up during the night, and
fought against it from the dawn
to midday, and I took it...
and I saw it quite...
(in the rest of this part—more
than two lines—there are, besides
isolated letters, only legible through
the gaps the names of God separated
from cach other),
to AstarChamos . . . Jehovah .
. . . before the face of Chamos.
(it may safely be presumed, that
mention was made here of the
restoration of [eathen in the room
of the Israelitish worship.
And the King of Israel built
Jahaz, and sat therein, while he
fought against me, and Chamos
drove him before my sight.
And I took from Moab two
hundred men, fully told. And
I beleaguered Jahaz and tovk it,
in addition to Dibon.
lt is T who have built Qarha,
the Wall of the Forests and the
Wall of the Hill. | I have built
its gates, und I have built its
towors. | I have built the palace
of the king, and have constructed
the prisons of the ... in the
midst of the city. |
And there were no wells in
the interior of tho city in Qarha:
and I said to all the people,
“ Mako you every man a well in
his house,” | and I dug cisterns
for Qarha for . . . of Israel. |
It is [ who have built Aroer,
and made the road of Arnon. |
It is I who have built Beth
Bamoth, which was destroyed. |
It is I who have built Bosor
which (is powerful) . . . Dibon
of tho military chiefs, for all
Dibon was submissive, | And I
have filled . . . with the cities
which I have added to the land
(of Moab, |
And it is I who have built .
Beth Diblathain, and Beth Baal
Meon, and I have raised there
the .. . theland. | And Horo-
naim, he resided there with...
| And Chamos said to me,
LAST TRANSLATIONS.
507
I built Korcha, the wall to-
wards the forest, and tho
wall . . . and I built her gates,
and I built her towers, and I
built the king's house: and I
made storcplaces for the moun-
tain water in the midst of the
town, And there were no
cisterus within the town, in
Korcha, and I said to all the
people, “ Make [you] every man
a cistern in his house.”
(Here follows a sentence with
difficult expressions at the beginning,
anda gap in the middle, The fol-
lowing is conjectural :)
And I lung up tho pro-
hibition for Korcha [against
association with the] people of
Isracl.
I built Aroér, and I made the
streets in Arnon, I built Beth
Bamoth, for [it was destroyed].
I built Bezer, for men of Dibon
compelled it, fifty of them, for
all Dibon was subject; and
I filled (with inhabitants]
Bikran, which I added to the
land. And I built... the
Temple of Diblathaim, and the
Tomple of Baal Meon, and
brought thither Ch'amos].
(Alter a hiatus are the words :)
. . the land . . And Horonaim
. » Awelt therein. .
(Probaby there followed the name
of an Edomile parent tribe, or clan.
Then again after a gap:)
508 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
“Go down and fight against Chamos said to me, “Come.
’ Horonaim.” |... Chamos, in Fight against Horonaim and
my day... the year .... [take it].”
In the last gap, out of more than
two lines it is only possible, besides
separated letters, to read the word
of Chamos. Without doubt it
was here related how the king, by
the help of Chemosh, took the town.
Professor Schlottmann divides
the inscription into three parts; the
first to the sixth section, inclusive,
of the victories of Mesa over Israel;
the second, sections seven and eight,
of the buildings and erections of
the king; and the third, of a battle
in the south, towards Edom. :
It will be seen that there is no doubt at all as to
the general tenour of the translation; and the dis-
crepancies may appear such as mainly: to interest
‘scholars. _ But, when all that M. Ganneau has is
safe in Paris; when the fragments obtained “by
Captain Warren are fitted in their places by means
of M. Ganneau’s imperfect sqtieeze, and the monu-
ment restored as nearly as can be hoped, a good
many of these lacuna, these conjectural readings, will,
it may be confidently expected, disappear. We can
_ never hope to have’ a complete restoration ; but for
what we have, we may be thankful to M. Ganneau’s
energy in recovering the fragments, and Captain
Warren’s forbearance and prompt.action at the right.
moments. To use the words of Captain Warren
himself, “ Whether the stone gets to Berlin, London,
or Paris, appears to me to be a small matter, com-
pared with the rescuing of the inscription from
oblivion.” And it must be remembered that the
PROFESSOR SCHLOTTMANN. 509.
Committee of the Fund carefully abstained from
entering into any competition for the stone or its
fragments, either with the Prussians or with M: Cler-
mont Ganneau. It is not intended here to give more
than the mere story of the stone. The learned writer”
who was to have enriched this volume with a treatise
worthy of the subject hasbeen prevented by sickness
from fulfilling his intention. What has to be said,
therefore, in place of what would have been said, is
necessarily brief and incomplete. But a few words
“may be added in illustration of the interest of the
stone, apart from its purely scriptural bearing. In
‘the seventeenth line occur the words “ Astar Chamos.”
Professor ‘Schlottmann, in his learned treatise, calls
attention to this name. ' It is found, he’explains, here
for the first time on Canaanitish soil. It is the male |
name, corresponding to the female form Astarté; it
is identical with the Athtar, or Athtér, found on a
well-known Himyaritic inscription, and probably
also with the Estar of the Ninevitish cuneiform
writings. The etymology of the word is stated by
the learned Professor to have nothing whatever to
do with the Hebrew name Esther, which is borrowed
from-an Indo-Germanic source (aornp), but. must be
referred to a’ root signifying “to close together: to
form an alliance’ with one another ;” the significance
of which appears ‘from the fact that in Astar and
Astarté was placed the power which binds creatures
to one another, and-the world to the Godhead ; and, -
in alliance with this, the productive strength of
Nature. He endeavours to establish a connection be-.
tween Ares and Astar, Aphrodité and Astarté, Baal
510 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
and Chamos. “It is strange,’ says Professor
Schlottmanh, “ that this bare name on the monument
of a small nation of herdsfolk long forgotten, should
have even. for classical archeology a many-sided in-
terest. It is the Canaanitish original, now first found,
of the Aphroditos mentioned in Aristophanes, of the
name for Venus Amathusia, represented as bearded,
‘eadem mas et foemina.’ . . . The name Chamos has
reference to his taming, compelling power. He is
the fearful god who is appeased by human sacrifice,
especially the sacrifice of children, ... Any one not
otherwise acquainted with the characteristics of
Chamos,. might suppose from our inscription that
he was only nominally different from Jehovah. ... .
Chamos is angry with his people; he delivers them
into the hands of their enemies; he again looks
mercifully on them: he drives Mesa’s enemies from
before his face: he speaks in the same manner as
Jehovah. But the wrath of Chamos was lke his
merey, blind and fitful; not like the wrath of Je-
hovah, a symbol of that true Divine energy by which
an eternal moral order is preserved.” To conclude:
the nature of this monument was summed up by
Mr. Deutsch in a recentspeech at Oxford. “It was,”
he said, “the monument of a Moabite king—Mesha—
who, after a -brief record of himself and his father,
tells of certain deeds of war, from which he. issued
victorious. Further, the names of Israel, Omri,
Chamos, and a number of well-known Moabite cities, ©
occurred up and down: . . . but so long as there was
any hope of the recovery of one single scrap of material,
so long must the final investigations remain in abeyance.”
Ali
Nore I.—-Fixtract from Report of Mr. Deutsch’s Speech. at Oaford
on the Moabite Stone.
Mr. Deutsch next alluded to the number of decipherments and
translations, hypotheses and suggestions, to which this stone had
already given rise, and dwelt upon the fact that, apart from the
precise date of this King Mesha, which indeed was still a moot
point, very little was doubtful of that which really existed on or
of the stone. The chicf difficulty and the variance of opinion
arose from the questionable letters, the gaps and lacune, though
ovon these could scarcely affect the general gist of the monument.
“ Tts language was easy and translucent even to a beginner, though,
will-o’-the-wisp-like, words suddenly appeared which, either from
false transcription or some other cause, not merely interrupted, but
seemed to subvert the whole meaning and structure. He had from -
the very outsct, and for very good reasons, ventured to beg the
world at large, as well as the learned, not to be hasty. The great
fact of this intensely important find was clear at first sight; also
that the monument was that of 2 Moabite king—Mesha—who,
after a brief record of himself and his fathcr, tells of certain deeds
of war from which he issued victorious; further, that the names
Isracl, Omri, Chemosh, and a number of well-known Moabite
cities occurred up and down; and that indeed the greater part of
the last lalf of the stone was a record of the king's [re]buildings
of and improvements in these cities, while the very defective end
seomod once more to speak of war. If he had lifted up his warning 7
voice then, he, notwithstanding ull that had come between—emen-
dations, chips, squeezes, dissertations, pamphlets, &c,—would still
beg for a little patience before a final and definitive conclusion could
be arrived at on all points—if ever that could be the case, inasmuch
as thoro were some more materials extant, which had not as yet
beon taken into consideration. There was, e.g. (besides M. Gan-
neau’s not yet published cotrections), a certain chip acquired by
Captain’ Warren some timo before lis “squeezes,” which did not
figure in any of the known texts, and which seemed to belong to
the right-hand corner—a matter on which a decision could only be
arrived at when the ether pieces have been brought home. Besides
this, he would draw the attention of his hearers to certain fragment-
ary lines of Mr. Klein, which also appear in none of the materials
extant, and which, ifacenrately copied, would be of some considerable
-
518
-EXPLORATIONS IN THE PENINSULA OF
SINAI
BY THK REV. Fz W. HOLLAND,
Ar :last, the obscurity: which-has so long. hung over
‘the Peninsula of Sinai, with regard to the possible
determination. of the route of the Israelites through
the desert,:-has’been removed.: Almost the whole of
the country has now been explored; and that: portion:
- of it which ‘possesses the greatest interest’ for us has
been most carefully mapped, by an expedition ‘sent
out- tinder the auspices. of the: Director-General of
our Ordnance Survey.’ : Until lately no. one traveller:
had ‘traversed more: than two of. the routes of the
desert. Hence, no just comparison could be insti-~
tuted between the facilitiés, or“the difficulties, which
attended them all. Each .traveller also had yielded
more or, less’ to the temptation.to. make the Israelites .
follow. his own track.;.and. critics at home have:
consequently striven in vain to. reconcile conflicting
déscriptions. of. the. country, ‘and to. find in them
some definite traces ef -those: sacred events which
have tendered the Peninsula ‘of: Sinai a. land of such
intense interest to ‘us.
2M
514 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
Now, however, we have had gathered up by
professional men, the well-known accuracy of whose
work places their report and maps beyond suspicion,
all the materials that the desert affords for setting at
rest the important topographical questions which
have been at issue.
It was my privilege to form one of the exploring
party; having been requested, in consequence of
my knowledge of the country, and personal acquaint-
ance with the Arabs, gained during three previous
visits in 1861,-1865, and 1867, to accompany the
expedition in the capacity of guide. In the follow-
ing pages I shall endeavour to give an account of
the results which have been obtained, rather than a
history of the proceedings of the expedition itself ;
and I shall only add such details of our work as
seem to illustrate those results, and explain the
manner by which they were arrived at. I may state,
however, that the opinions. here expressed with
regard to the position of the true Mount Sinai, and
the route followed by the children of Israel, are
those held unanimously by all the members of the
expedition,
Our exploring party consisted of Captains Wilson
and. Palmer, of the Royal Engineers (the former ot
whom is so well known for his admirable survey of
Jerusalem) ; Mr. E. H. Palmer, Fellow of St. John’s
College, Cambridge, whose knowledge of Arabic, and
rare power of distinguishing between those letters in
_ the language which are so puzzling’ to European
ears, rendered his services of infinite value in many
ways, and especially in collecting the traditions and
EXPEDITION TO SINAI. 515
ascertaining the correct nomenclature of the country;
Mr. Wyatt, whose occupation was the collection of
specimens of natural history ; myself; and four non-
commissioned officers of the Royal Engineers, all of
whom were specially selected for the work from the
staff of the Ordnance Survey, one of them, Ser-
geant-Major MacDonald,. being an’ experienced
photographer.
Our mode of travelling, after Mount Sinai had
once been reached, was generally on foot; our bag-
gage, tents, and other necessaries being -farried’ on
camels, For ordinary purposes of trave}ling the
camel is invaluable in a desert country; but ‘he un-
fortunately possesses‘so strong a will of his own, and.
his swinging gait is so prejudicial to. the-taking of
notes or compass-bearings, that he is by nd means a
satisfactory animal to ride, when accurate observa-
tions are required; and for this reason I*regard it
as a matter of no small moment that we were enabled
~to perform the greater part of the work on foot.
We started from Suez on November 11th, 1868,
with a caravan of forty-four camels, attended “by
nearly forty Arab drivers from different parts of the
Peninsula, Having to carry with us all the neces-
saries of life, including even water, we were unable
at first to travel with a smaller number; but there
was one advantage in this, viz., that we secured .
additione!l evidence respecting the names of the
various localities which we passed on our journey to.
Jebel Misa, ‘and by questioning independently one
Arab after another as we went along, Mr. Palmer
succeeded in obtaining the correct name of every
. 2m 2
516 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
spot, and the history of whatever traditions were
connected with it.
Those only who have made the experiment know
how difficult it is to obtain reliable information from
a Bedouin Arab, - Suspicious by nature of all
strangers, and unable to estimate the real objects
which a traveller has in view in making inquiries
respecting his country, a Bedouin systematically
endeavours to deceive the inquirer; and fearing lest
he may entertain some sinister designs upon his
territory, he invents false names, and frequently
raises difficulties where none really exist. It is only
by patient examination, and comparison of names,
that the truth can be arrived at.
It was arranged that we should make our way at
once to Jebel Misa, and establish under the care of the
monks in the eonvent of St. Catharine, which stands
at the foot of that mountain, a depdt for our stores,
' Jebel Misa is situated almost in the centre of the
Peninsula, and being easily accessible from all points,
forms an admirable position for the head-quarters of
an exploring expedition. There was some little
discussiori as to the route which we should take to
this point, but we finally settled to follow the
northern’ route by Serabit-el-Khddim and Wady
Berah, as being not only the most direct, but also the
. best adapied for a continuous line of observations to
connect Jebel Misa with Suez.
We arrived at the convent after a journey of ten
days, having made, as we went along, a rough sketch
of our route, and taken a chain of bearings from
point to point, in addition to laying down by astro-
PENINSULA or SINAL.
Palace p56
Seale 25 Miles
‘asad ierdtoteat
J Catherme 8537 FE ot Serbal 6735
Thon Shaamer 8450 F* j wt Fitmunane 1567 FE
nS Misa: 7373 Fe |
COMMENCEMENT OF SURVEY. 517
nomical observations the exact position” of each of
- our camping places.
My old friends, the monks, with whom J had lived
for some weeks during the previous winter, gladly
reccived us, and at once placed a room at our disposal
for keeping our stores. They pressed us much to
take up our abode under their roof, but we preferred
. the freedom of tent life, and pitched our camp at the
bottom of the valley in which the convent stands.
A special survey of Jebel Misa, and the surround-
ing mountains and valleys, on a scale of six inches to
the mile, was to form a portion of our work, and this
“we immediately commenced. A base was chosen in
the plain of Er Rahah; every prominent peak was
scaled, with no little risk sometimes to limbs and in-
struments, and their relative positions and altitudes
were determined by triangulation.
This special survey contained an area of upwards
of seventeen square miles, and included the mountains
of Jebel Mtisa and Jebel ed Deir, the Ras Sufsafeh, the
plain of er Rahah, Jebel Sona, the convent valley,
Wady Leja, and the lower portion of Wady
Sebaiyeh. When the triangulation was completed,
while the non-commissioned officers were engaged
in the levelling and hill-sketching, excursions were
made to different places of interest in the neighbour- .
hood, and the general reconnaissance survey was
extended, ;
Towards the end of December it grew so cold, and
occasional snow-storms interfered so much with the
progress of the survey, that we moved to the lower
ground of Wady Feiran, and pitching our tents near
a
§18 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM. —
the mouth of Wady Aleyat, which runs down from
the central peak of Jebel Serbal, we commenced:
the special survey of that mountain and its northern
valleys. This survey took in an area ofnearly the
same extent as that of Jebel Misa, and was also
made on a scale of six inches to the mile. Here,
again, as soon as the ground for the special survey
was triangulated, the general survey was continued
in the surrounding districts, and excursions were
made to Wady Mokatteb, the mines and ruins of
Wady Mugharah, Serabit-el-Khadim, and other places.
When the weather became less severe, the camp
was again removed to Jebel Miisa, and the survey
there completed. Other expeditions were also made,
and before the exploring party finally withdrew from
the Peninsula at the beginning of April, the special
surveys of Jebel Miisa and Jebel Serbal were com-
pleted, and seven hundred miles of route survey had
been made, laying down accurately the course of the
principal valleys, and giving with the reconnaissance
a survey of about 4,000 square miles of country,
including almost the whole of the region bounded on
the north by the ranges of Jebel er Rihah and Jebel
et Tih; on the south by a line drawn from the sea-
port of Tor to Jebel Abou Masjid ; on the east by a
line drawn northward from the latter mountain to
Jebel Ojmeh, and on the west by the Gulf of Suez.
That being the portion of the- Peninsula through
which the Israelites must have marched on their way
from Egypt to Mount Sinai, if either Jebel Misa, or
Jebel Serbal, or indeed any mountain to the south of
the Tih range, be the true Mount Sinai.
THE EXODUS. 519
But it may be asked, Is there any proof that the
true Mount Sinai was situated here, or that the
country which we now call the Peninsula of Sinai is
that through which the children of Israel marched ?
More than one author has attempted to prove that
Mount Sinai was far away eastwards in the Penin-
sula of Arabia, and that the Gulf of Akaba was the
_ Red Sea of the Bible. What is there to prove that
they are not right?
A careful comparison of the geographical features
of the Peninsula of Sinai with the history of the
Exodus appears to afford abundant evidence, that
whatever may be the general value of the traditions
attaching to that region, they are at least right in
pointing it out as the scene of that history. It
is now pretty generally agreed that the portion
of the land &f Egypt occupied by the children of
Isracl_ must have lain to the north-east of that
counti'y, and that.the land of Goshen probably com-
prised the district called El Wady, the fertile. valley
on the edge of the desert, through which now flows
the fresh-water canal leading from the Nile to
Ismailia, The starting-point of the Israelites cannot
have been very far from the latter place.
It appears from the history of the Exodus that
the Red Sea was only three days’ journey from that
point, a distance which exactly agrees with that to
the head of the Gulf of Suez, but which does not
agree at all with the distance to the head of the
Gulf of Akaba, which lies more than 150 miles
castwards. This seems to prove that the Gulf of
‘ Sucz alone can possibly be the Red Sea of the Bible.
a
520 _ RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
Again, we know that when the children of Israel
had crossed the Red Sea they kept down its shore, for
in Numbers xxxiii. 10, we read of their “ encamping
hy the Red Sea” after five days’ journey ; far too
short a time for them to have reached the Gulf of
Akaba, if, after“ crossing the Gulf of, Suez, they had
marched in that-direction. A glance at the map
shows that, if this point be once: established, Mount
Sinai must have been situated to the south of the
long range of Jebel et Tih, which forms a barrier,
stretching across the whole breadth of the Peninsula
from the head of one gulf to thaf of the other. °
Having thus fixed the situation of Mount Sinai
within certain limits, our next business is to decide
which of the mountains within that area best answers
to the Mount of the Law as described in the book of
Exodus, - It is true that the account which we have
of it is but scanty, Yet still there are certain points
in connection with it which appear to be indisput-
able, First, It must have been a mountain easy of
approach, and having before it an open space suffi-
ciently large for the whole congregation of the
children of Israel to have been assembled there to
receive the Law. Although it is not necessary to sup-
pose that the whole host pitched their tents before the
mount; their camp being probably spread over an area
of many miles; still they were all at certain times as-
sembled before the mount at the command of Moses,
Secondly. Mount Sinai was evidently a prominent
mountain, rising up abruptly from the plain before it;
for in Deut. iv. 11, the people are said to have come
near, and “stood under the mountain,” and it is
MOUNT SINAL-~ * Bal
described in Exodus xix. 12, 17, as a mountain that
.could be touched, and “at the nether part” of which
the people stood. It seemsalso to have been separated
by valleys from. the surrounding mountains, since
* bounds were ordered to be placed around it. .
_ Thirdly, lts immediate neighbou*hood must have
afforded a plentiful supply of water and pasturage.
Of all the mountains within the area designated,
two only, -viz., Jebel. Serbal and Jebel Masa, have -
been generally considered to ‘satisfy these” requir’:
ments, And now that the neighbourhood of Jebel
Serbal has been carefully surveyed, it will be seen at
once from the maps, or, still better, from the excellent ~
model which was made of the..ground on the spot,
that that mountain neither has before it any open -
space for a large assembly to gather in, nor is any
one peak of it separated from the rest,so that it could
be inclosed by bounds. In massive ruggedness, and
in boldness of feature and outline, Jebel Serbal un-
questionably presents an aspect unequalled by any
other mountain in the Peninsula; “and though far
from being the highest above the level of the sea,
* being only about 6,300 feet in height, rising as it
does from a lower level, it has a greater command
than almost any other mountain over the surrounding
country, and looks more imposing from the valleys
beneath. But unfortunately there is not a single
point in the valleys near its base which affords a com-
prehensive view of it; and it is only by ascending
some of the uéighbooriis hills that the whole range
‘of its magnificent peaks canbe seen at once.
Two valleys, Wadys Aleyat and Ajelah, each
522 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
from three to four miles in length, run from its base
to Wady Feiran ; but each is a wilderness of boulders
and torrent beds, which render it most unsuitable for
a large encampment. From certain points in these
two valleys, and from a few spots also in Wady ©
Feiran, imperfect views of Serbal may be had; but
from Wady Ajelab the highest peak is never seen.
One of the chief advocates in favour of Serbal being
the true Mount Sinai has placed the camp of the
Israelites between these two valleys, having been led
to suppose that there was a plain there; such, how-
ever, is not the case: the space between the two
valleys is a chaos of rugged mountains, rising to as
many as 2,500 feet above Wady Feiran, and inter-
sceted by deep ravines. In fact, when engaged in
fixing the trigonometrical stations for this portion of
the survey, we found that the mountain-climbing
here was almost more severe than at any other spot.
The members of the Survey Expedition, after 4 care-
ful examination of the ground during a stay of several
weeks, came to the unanimous conclusion that Jebel
Serbal could not possibly be the mountain from
which the Law was given.
. Let us now see how far Jebel Misa meets the
necessary requirements. Under this name I include
also the peaks of Ras Sufsffeh, which have been
wrongly described by some travellers as an indepen-
dent mountain. The Ras Sufsifeh does, in fact,
form the northern portion of Jebel Misa. Its two
peaks rise up precipitously from the bottom of the
plain of er Rahah to a height of about 2,000 feet,
being distinctly visible from every part of that plain,
DESCRIPTION OF JEBEL MUSA. 523
and they are well described by the Dean of West-
minster as “standing out in lonely grandeur against
the sky like a huge altar.” A central elevated basin,
encircled by a ring of higher peaks, is a common
feature of the granitic mountains in the Peninsula of
Sinai, and such, more or less, is the character of.
Jebel Masa, which is about two miles long from
north to south, and one mile in breadth. The
southern peak, on which stands a little chapel and
the ruins of a mosque, is its highest point; and
although the name of Jebel Misa is used for the -
whole mountain, it is more especially applied to this
one peak.
On the east of the mountain runs Wady ed Deir,
“the Valley of the Convent,” so called from the
convent of St. Catharine, which is situated near its
head. On the west of it runs Wady Shuraich, a very
steep and rocky valley, containing old monastic
gardens and a copious spring. This valley, again, is
separated by the narrow ridge of Jebel Fara from
Wady Leja, a valley lying farther westwards,
Thus, on the north, east, and west, Jebel: Misa is
separated from the surrounding mountains; on the
south two smaller valleys—one flowing eastwards
into Wady Sebaiyeh, and the other westwards into
Wady Leja, separate it also from the range of moun-
tains which lies between the Wady Sebaiyeh and
Jebel Catharine. And so, being isolated by valleys
from the mountains on every side, it would be by no
means difficult to set bounds round about it, while at
the same time its northern cliffs rise so precipitously
from the plain beneath, that it might well be described
524 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
as “a mountain that could be touched,” and at the
hether part of which the people could stand. It is
easily seen on the spot that the Wady Sebaiyeh could
not have been the place where the Israelites were
assenibled to receive the Law. That valley does not
lie immediately below the mountain; and its charac-
ter, position, and extent all appear to render such a
view extremely improbable. On the other hand, no
place could be conceived more suitable than the plain
of er Rahah for the assembling together of many
thousands of people, both to witness “the thunders
and lightning, and the thick cloud upon the mount,”
and to hear the voice of the Lord, when He spake
unto them.
The plain itself is upwards of two miles long, and
half a mile broad, and slopes gradually down from
the watershed on the north to the foot of Ras Sufsifeh.
About 300 yards from the actual base of the moun-
‘tain there runs across the plain a low, semicircular
mound, which forms a kind of natural theatre, while
farther distant on either side of the plain the slopes
of the inclosing mountains would afford seats to an
almost unlimited number of spectators. The members
of our expedition were as unanimous in their convic-
tion that the Law was given from Ras Sufsaifeh to
the Israelites assembled in the plain of er Rahah, as
they had been unanimous in rejecting Serbal as the
mount of the giving of the Law.
As I have before said, it appears to be qyite unne-
cessary to suppose that all the tents of the Israelites
were pitched beforé the Mount; but I may mention
that there is near the mouth of Wady Leja an exten-
WATER SUPPLY. 535
sive recess, about a ale and a half long, by three-
quarters of a mile broad, which would add largely to
the available camping ground so situated. With
regard to the water supply, there is no other spot in
the whole Peninsula which is nearly so well supplied
as the neighbourhood of Jebel Masa. Four streams
of runuing water are found there: one in Wady
Leja; a second in Wady et T’lah, which waters a suc-
cession of gardens extending more than three miles in
fength, and forms pools in which I have often had a
swim; a third stream rises to the north of the water-
shed of the plain of er Rahah, and runs westwards
into the Wady et T’lah; and a fourthis formed by
the drainage from the mountains of Umm Alawy, to
the east of Wady Sebaiyeh, and finds its way into
that valley by a narrow ravine opposite’ Jebel ed
Deir. In addition to these streams there are nume-
rous wells and springs, affording excellent water.
Throughout the whole of the granitic district I have
seldom found it necessary to carry water when making
' @mountain excursion; and the immediate neighbour-
hood of Jebel Misa would, I think, bear comparison
with many mountain districts in Scotland with regard
to its supply of water. There is also no other district
in the Peninsula which affords such excellent pas-
turage.
Having, for the above-named reasons, fixed upon
Jebel Misa as the true Mount Sinai, and the Gulf of
Suez as the Red Sea of the Exodus, we have next to
trace out the probable route of the children of Israel,
in their march from the one point to the other.
The exact spot of tht passage through the Red Sea
526 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM. .
will never probably be identified. It is Aifficuls even ’
to determine how great a change the lapse of 3,500
years may have made in the condition of the gulf.
Tts head has evidently been silted up to some extent,
but the ruins of an ancient town at Suez seem to
point to the fact that the level of its shores has not
materially altered. The passage of the Israelites is
generally supposed to have taken place in the imme-
diate neighbourhood of Suez, and a careful examina-
tion of the isthmus and head of the gulf has led me
fully to concur in this opinion. On leaving Egypt
the Israelites had probably intended to cross over
into the Wilderness of Etham, or Shur, by the higher
ridge of land which separates the héad of the Gulf of
Suez from the Bitter Lakes on the north. This was
the natural road to have taken on the way to Sinai,
but God commanded Moses to alter their intended
course: He bid them turn, and encamp before Piha-
hiroth, between Migdol and the sea ;—that is, pro-
bably in the desert which lies between the range of
Jebel Attakah and Suez. Pharaoh coming up in
pursuit of them, and seeing that they had missed the
road leading round the head of the gulf, would
naturally exelaim, “The wilderness hath shut them
in!” The sea was on their left, a high range of
desert mountains on their right, beyond them a
narrow road along the shore, leading only to a yet
more barren desert. Escape was impossible unless
God had opened a way for them through the sea.
Ayotin Mfisa—the “ Wells of Moses ”—formed pro-
bably .their first halting place after the passage.
Here, about eight miles south of Suez, are several
WANT OF PASTURAGE. 527
springs or pools, most of which have been artificially
formed by digging a few feet down in the sand. The
water is brackish,-but quite drinkable, and the wells
are now surrounded: by groves of palm trees and
flourishing gardens, which supply Suez with vege-
tables, Leaving this small oasis, and travelling on
southwards, the desert becomes more and more dreary.
Some twelve or fifteen miles from the coast, and
parallel to it, runs Jebel er Rahah, appearing in the
distance as a long, flat-headed range of white cliffs,
which forms as it were a wall inclosing the desert on
the north. Hence, probably, arose the name of the
“ Wilderness of Shur ;” for the meaning of the name
Shur is “a wall.”
We read that the children of Israel, on entering’
the wilderness of Shur, “went three days in the
wilderness and found no water.” With such a host,
encumbered as they were with women and children,
and flocks and herds, the distance of a day’s march -
cannot have averaged more than from twelve to
fifteen miles. How striking to find that even now a
journey of about thirty-five miles has to be made:
before water is reached, and then that the water is
bitter and unwholesome, as were the waters of
Marah!
The want of pasturage for the flocks of the
Israelites, especially at this point in their journey,
has always appeared to be one of the great difficulties
in connection with their march, ‘ Travellers have
generally described this wilderness of Shur as a hard,
barren plain, with here and there a few shrubs, but
utterly incapable of supplying any herbage. Such is
528 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
the cliaracter of the higher portion of the plain across
which the road usually followed leads; but on ap-
proaching the sea, and keeping near the shore, a
broad tract of alluvial deposit is found, which affords
extensive pasturage, and forms a favourite feeding-
‘ground for the young camels of the Terabein Arabs.
To the south of this more fertile tract are the wells
of Abu Suweirah, mere holes dug in the bed of a
watercourse, and yielding a very limited supply of
water, though doubtless other wells might easily be
sunk in the neighbourhood with equal prospects of
finding water. About this point the country becomes
‘more broken, and the road usually followed turns
farther inland, After passing over some low hills,
which glitter brightly with the gypsum of which they
are largely composed, the head of Wady Amarah is
reached. Here, on a raised platform, is situated the
well-known ’Ain Howarah, which has generally been
identified with Marah. . It is but a small water-hole,
capable of affording a very limited supply of brackish
water; but it is surrounded by a thick calcareous
deposit, which seems to prove that the water which
flowed from it was at one time more abundant than it
is at present. I have found that the quality of the
“water varies much in different years. I have known .
it'at one time quite drinkable, and at another so bitter
that the taste of it was exceedingly nauseous. Camels *
" are frequently watered there, and it forms one of the =
usual camping places of the Arabs on their way to
and fromthe Peninsula; but they never drink the
water, if it can be avoided. A small group of desert*
palm trees stands near the spring, the first that the’
WADY GHARUNDEL. i 529
traveller meets with after leaving the wells of Moses.
Five miles farther ‘south the road descends to Wady
Gharundel, a broad valley inclosed on either side by
steep banks, running down from the Tih plateau.
Just below the point where the road crosses it several
water-holes are found, which have been frequently
described. But it is not. generally known how large
a supply of water is to be found about two miles
lower down the wady. A stream here gradually
oozes out from the bed of the wady, and soon forms, -
considerable pools of water, which are overgrown
with rushes, ‘and afford, a favourite resort for wild
ducks and many other birds, An abundant supply
of water is to be found here during the whole year.
The banks of the stream and dry pools, from, which
the water has evaporated, are often covered with
a white deposit of natron, and the standing water
is brackish and unwholesome ; but when running
briskly, and freshly drawn, it is very drinkable, and
the traveller’s watersking are generally filled here on
his way to and-from the south. The lower portions.
of Wady Gharundel are well clothed with tamarisks
aand palms, and a few tents of the Terabein Arabs are
i generally to be found here. It has beer supposed by
some to mark the site of Marah, by others that of
Elim. However that may be, it can hardly have
failed to have provided the children of Israel with
water on their march; for wherever we may plate
those stations, their road must have crossed the
wady. Before my last visit to the Peninsula, I was .
under the impression that the high ground 6n the
north of Wady Gharundel, near the sea, would have’
- 4s = 9n
530 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
afforded a very convenient spot for a large encamp-
ment; but on closer examination I discovered that it
‘was intersected in every direction by deep ravines,
which would render such a ‘supposition impossible.
The yet more broken ground at the base of Jebel
Hummam Faroun would render an encampment on
the opposite side of the wady equally impracticable ;
so that if one of the stations of the children of Israel
was situated here, the camping ground must have
been confined to the bed of the wady, and the small
plain at its mouth.
The precipitous bluff of Jebel Humman, thrusting
its white cliffs down to the very water’s edge, obliges
the traveller at this point to turn inland and seek a
road round the back of that range. Wady Gharundel
affords the best road up from the coast; Wady Useit,
which is situated a little farther to the south, being so
steep and narrow that laden camelscan scarggly climb it.
‘On joining the road which leads from ’Ain Howarah,
and mounting the southern bank of Wady Gharundel,
a raised and undulating plain of considerable extent
is reached ; this plain is drained by Wady Useit, and
contains a few water-holes and scattered palm treesy
The high range of Jebel Hummam completely shuta
out the view of the sea; and the glaring whiteness
of the limestone is unrelieved by vegetation.
The station of Elim is generally thought to have
been situated in this plain, and, in spite of its present
barrenness, it is quite possible that the ancient in-
habitants, by sinking wells and utilising the water
thus obtained, may have rendered it a pleasant spot
‘for an encampment.
SITE OF ELIM. Bal
The marvellous effect that water has in producing
vegetation in the most barren desert is exemplified a
few miles farther northwards, where a small natural
basin receives the drainage of the surrounding
ground, and produces a luxuriant crop of grass and
other herbs. It is called by the Arabs Engi el fal,
“the bean field.” ;
It is, therefore, by no means improbable that these
few water-holes, and groups of palm trees, may mark
the site of the “twelve wells of water, and three
score and ten palm trees” which the children of
Israel found at Elim. At all events, up to this point
there can, I think, be no doubt as to the route which
they followed, however uncertain the exact position
of their several encampments may be.
But now the road divides, one branch running down
to the sea again by Wady Tayibeh, “ the good wady,”
so called from its stream of water and accompanying
vegetation ; the other turning northwards by Wady
Hamr to Wady Nasb and Serabit-el-Khédim.
The arguments in favour of the latter road having
been that followed by the children of Israel are,
Wfirst, its being the most direct road to Jebel Miisa ;
' and, secondly, its containing an extensive plain at the
foot of the range of Jebel et Tih, which would appear
to correspond better in some respects with the apparent
character of the Wilderness of Sin than the plain of
El Murkhahon the southern road. _ It is not so level,
consisting rather of a succession of shallow basins
separated by low hills than of one extent of plain, but
its geological character—sandstone resting upon a bed .
of gneiss—makes its vegetation extremely abun-
2Nn 2
582 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM. .
dant after rain, and the water collects in the hollows
and forms considerable pools. I visited it once
shortly after a heavy storm, and found many Arabs
encamped there with their flocks for the sake of its
water and pasturage. A few days had made an almost
miraculous change in itsaspect. The wilderness had
literally been “ turned into a standing water, and dry
ground into water springs.”
If the northern route by Serabit-el-Khidim were
that taken by the children of Israel it probably
differed slightly from the road now usually followed
by the Arabs. Instead of keeping along the confined
wadys of Khamileh and Bark, which are ill-suited
for the march of a large multitude encumbered by
waggons and much eattle, they would have kept
farther to the north in the more open ground under
the Tih range until they reached Wady Keneh, which
would bring them down to the head of Wady Berah,
and so into the Wady es Sheikh. This route would
have been suitable enough, and, as I have already
mentioned, the open ground under the Tih range
would answer admirably in position to the Wilderness
of Sin. But there appears to be one fatal objection
to such a supposition—it would seem to necessiteie
taking the children of Israel down Waey Tayibeh'to.
their encampment by the sea at its mouth, and then’
making them retrace their steps up the same wady
until they reached Wady Hamr, a most useless ai.J im-
probable proceeding. The mention, in Numbers xxxiii.
10, of the encampment by the Red Sea seems there-
fore to compel us to adopt the southern route by Wady
Feiran as that described in the history of the Exodus,
WILDERNESS OF SIN. + 533
Let us now see how this route agrees with the
details of-that history. At the mouth of Wady
Tayibeh is found a considerable plain; which would
afford an admirable position for a temporary camp.
To the south the mountains approach.nearer to the
sea, but sufficient space is left for a road along
the shore for several miles until the mountains again
recede and the plain of El Murkhah is reached.
There can, I think, be little doubt that this plain
marks the site of the Wilderness of Sin, where the
children of Israel made a long halt, and where God
gave them bread from heaven, and they were fed
with manna and quails, Exodus xvi. 1—15. This
plain extends as far south as Wady Feiran, a distance
of about twenty-five miles. Like most of the coast
plains, it is somewhat barren now ; still, it is not with-
out some vegetation, and probably in former days,
when the rainfall was larger, and the drainage from
the mountains descended gradually, instead of sweep-
ing everything before it by a flood as at the present
time, it would have afforded excellent pasturage.
The usual road from this plain to Jebel Masa is that
by the Pass of Badera and Wady Mokatteb into
Wady Feiran. This pass would hardly allow of the
passage of wagons, and it would also lead the children
of Israel past the mines of Wady Mugharah, which,
‘as some tablets of hieroglyphics still existing there
deser..e, formed at that time a strong Egyptian
military position. It may naturally be supposed that
Moses would avoid taking so disorganised and encum-
bered a body as the Israelites then were into the
presence of an armed force of their old enemies, and
534 - RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
hence would avoid passing near the mines; and
this, too, is an argument against their having fol-
lowed the northern route by Serabit-el-Khddim,
which was also at that time an Egyptian settlement.
‘The circumstances of the case therefore, and the cha-
racter of the ground, both lead to the opinion that
their course lay down the whole length‘of the plain
of Murkhah, and then up Wady Feiran. This wady
presents a level bed up which waggons might be
driven without the slightest difficulty. It is somewhat
confined in parts by the surrounding mountains, but
opens out here and there so as to present admirable
positions for encampments. It is impossible to
identify in any way the stations of Dophkah and
Alush, which are merely mentioned by name in the
Bible. There are no existing names in the Peninsula
which correspond with them ; but they may be placed
somewhere in Wady Feiran, or.Wady es Sheikh, up
which the children of Israel must have marched to
Mount Sinai.
Rephidim, the spot where the battle with the
Amalekites was fought, presents more definite pro-
spects of identification, for although we have no
description given of it, we may yet gather from
‘the history of the battle certain features connected
with it. The position of this spot is, however,
the only point in connection with the route of 7
the children of Israel on which there was any
division of opinion amongst the members of the
survey expedition. We were all thoroughly agreed
as to the route followed, and were also so far agreed
with regard to the position of Rephidim, that we ;
BATTLE OF REPHIDIM. 535
were convinced that the battle must have been fought
at one of two places; either in Wady Feiran, a short
distance below the spot where Wady Aleyat runs
into it from Jebel Serbal, or at the narrow pass of
El Watiyeh in Wady es Sheikh. I myself held to the
latter opinion; the other members of the expedition
were in favour of the former.
. My reagons for arriving at the conclusion that the
pass of El Watiyeh marks the site of the battle of
Rephidim are, first, its nearness to Jebel Misa, from
which it is distant only about twelve miles, and
the Bible apparently speaks of Rephidim as within
a day’s journey of Mount Sinai, Exodus xix. 2,
Numbers xxxiii. 15; secondly, my belief that all the
requirements of the battle are to be found there.
The pass consists of a narrow defile about three
hundred yards in length, and from forty to sixty
yards in breadth, with a level bed, but inclosed on
either side by lofty perpendicular rocks.
A very remarkable line of precipitous granite
mountains stretches across the centre of the Peninsula
from the head of Wady Hibran, and presents an
imposing barrier “to an invading force. In this line
of mountains are found only three passes, the most,
eastern being that of el Watiyeh, which affords an
easy road, while the two western passes of Nukb -
Howa and Wady T’lah are too narrow and rugged to
allow even a laden camel to pass without great
difficulty, They are altogether out of the question
for waggons, which evidently were used by the
Israelites, since they formed a portion of the offering
of the princes at the dedication of the tabernacle
586 RECOVERY. OF JERUSALEM.
(Numbers vii. 3).- This natural barrier defends on
the north the high and well-watered central group
of mountains which includes Jebel Misa, and. the
holding of the passes by the Amalekites would then
secure to them the most fertile portion of the whole
Peninsula.
' It appears to me-that the Amalekites, having
heard of the miraculous passage of the Israelites
through the Red Sea,.and of the death of Pharaoh
and hig host, would be. anxious to avoid, if possible, a
collision with these invaders of their country, and
would therefore act on the defensive rather than go
. forth to attack them, This being the case, they would
probably ‘intrench themselves behind some strong
position, and await their approach. The mountain
barrier which I have described presents a most suitable
line of defence, and behind this I believe that the
Amalekites assembled; those who inhabited Jebel
‘ Serbal, and other. more northerly districts, retiring
thither with their flocks, They may have hoped that
Moses would not lead his people so far south; -but if
he did they occupied the position which of all others
could most easily be held against an overwhelming
force, for the battle would necessarily be confined
almost entirely to the pass, and if conquered the
eastern valleys would afford a safe way of retreat.
The features of the ground at el Watiyeh agree
well with the short account which is given us of the
battle of Rephidim. ‘There is a large plain destitute
of water for the encampment of the Israelites; a
conspicuous hill on the north side of the defile
commanding the battle-ground and presenting a bare
BATTLE OF REPHIDIM. 337
cliff, such as we may suppose the: rock ‘to have
been which Moses struck; and another large open
tract of country on the south of the pass for the
encampment of the Amalekites, with abundance of
water within easy-reach. Curiously enough, at this
very spot at the foot of the hill on which Moses sat,
if this be Rephidim, the Arabs point out a: rock
which they call “the seat of the prophet Moses.” I
do not attach much ‘importance to ‘either Arab or
monastic traditions, but itis singular to find Such a
tradition at this spot.
Captain Wilson states his reasons for placing the
‘site of Rephidim in Wady Feiran to be as follows :—
1, He does not consider it necessary to place Rephidim
within one day’s march of Mount Sinai, since he thinks
"that in Exodus xix, 2, there is an indication of a
break in the march of the Israelites, the operations
of “pitching in the wilderness,” and “encamping
before the mount,” being separate and distinct.
2. Believing that the Amalekites would probably
come out to oppose the march’ of the invaders of
their country, be holds that the position in Wady Feiran
would for military reasons be more naturally selected
as the point of attack. 3. Mr. Palmer has succeeded
in bringing to light an Arab tradition, which places
the rock from which Moses brought water in Wady
Feiran, at a spot called Hesy el Khattatin, not far
below the position assigned by the earliest Christion
tradition to Rephidim. ;
Captain Wilson and the other members of ‘the
éxpedition consider Jebel Tahinah, which-is situated
opposite the mouth of Wady Aleyat, to be the hill
538 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
‘on which Moses sat while Aaron and Hur supported
his arms as he overlooked the battle. The churches
and chapels on the summit and sides of this hill evi-
dently mark it as a very sacred spot in the eyes of
the old inhabitants of the city of Paran; and I have
little doubt that this was believed to be the site of
Rephidim, when Serbal, as was once certainly the
case, was held to be the traditional Mount Sinai; but
its distance from Jebel Misa, about twenty-five miles
even by the most direct road, seems to me to prove
that the site of the battle must be looked for at a
nearer point to that mountain. I may add, that
Captain Wilson and Captain Palmer both. acknow-
ledge the value of the pass of el Watiyeh as a strong
military position that could be held with ease against
a large force, and would certainly place the site of
Rephidim there, if not at Wady Feiran, As I
have before stated, we are all quite agreed with
regard to the route followed by the children of
Israel in the march to Sinai, and this is the only
point on which we differ.
A more southerly route than that by Wady Feiran
has been proposed by some travellers. It has been
said that the children of Israel might have con-
tinued down the coast plains until they reached
Wady Hibran. Having, however, several times
followed that. route, I can pronounce it most im-
probable, if not actually impossible. It. would
involve a considerable circuit by which nothing could
be gained; and the pass at the head of Wady
’ Hibran is a very rocky and difficult one for a large
and much-encumbered body of people.
GEOLOGY OF SINAI. 539
My readers will have gathered from the descrip-
tion which I have given of the various routes
through the Peninsula, how mountainous and rugged
a country it is. Few countries present to the view
so wild an aspect. The mountains appear heaped
together in utter confusion, and they are intersected
in every direction by deep valleys, which in the lapse
of ages have been cut out by the winter torrents.
Were the country less mountainous, it would be
impossible to speak of the roads with such pre-
cision, or to attempt to lay down any one as the
most probable line of march of the children of
Israel. But being such as it is, there are absolutely
no other roads leading down from Suez to Jebel Misa
besides those which I have mentioned; for the roads
ean only run along the wadys and the coast.
The mountains are chiefly composed of granitic
limestone, and sandstone rocks. Speaking roughly,
the granite may be said to form the nucleus of the
whole Peninsula; Jebel Mtisa and all the central
mountains, including Jebel Serbal, being composed of
different varieties of it. The limestone is chiefly
confined to the Tih range and plateau, but it also
occurs at Jebel Hummam and the neighbouring
district, and large masses of nummulitic limestone
are found on the north of Jebel Serbal. The sand- -
stdne extends across the Peninsula south of Jebel
Tih, separating the limestone from the granite rocks.
Jt is remarkable for the extensive turquoise mines
which were worked by the ancient Egyptians in the
neighbourhood of Wady Mugharah and Serabit-el-
Khddim. Hematite iron, manganese, and copper ores,
540 _RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
le appear to have, been worked in the sandstone
district; but the largest workings for copper I dis-.
covered in the granite near Wady Senned, about
eight miles north-east of Jebel Misa. Here a vein
of ore, which crops up to the surface, has been
worked almost continuously for a distance of nearly
two miles, I have found traces of the smelting of
copper in Wady Shellal, Wady Nusb, Wady Mug-
harah, Wady Senned, and on the coast of the Gulf
of Akaba, about thirty miles north of Sherm. Iron
ore was perhaps worked at Jebel Hadid, “the Iron
mountain,” about ten miles south-east of Jebel Misa.
In Wady Gharundel also. the slag from copper-
smelting works has been found. Thus mining opera-
tions must have been carried on over a large area of
the Peninsula; and since the smelting of the ore
must have required a great amount of fuel, it is very
probable that the fertility of the country has been
much decreased by the destruction of the trees for
this purpose.
There are evident’ traces that there has been,
owing to various reasons, a very considerable de-
crease in the amount of vegetation in the Peninsula ;
although even now the country is not so barren as it
has generally been described. The-observations of
travellers on this point have been chiefly confined
to a few of the main valleys and principal moan-
tains; but it is not till one has wandered off the
beaten tracks, and explored the slopes of the lower ..
mountains and the less frequented wadys, that,one can
really arrive at a just estimate of the supply of water,
and capabilities of the country for affording pasturage.
FORMER FERTILITY. B41
_Long before the children of Israel marched
through the wilderness, the mines were worked by
the Egyptians, and the destruction of the trees was
probably going on. It is hardly likely that the
Israelites themselves would have passed a year in an
enemy’s country, knowing that they were to march
onwards, without adding largely to this destruction.
Their need of fuel must have been great, and they
would not hesitate to cut down the trees, and lay
waste the gardens; and thus before they journeyed
- onwards from Mount Sinai they may have caused a
complete change in the face of the surrounding
country.
Tt is a well-known fact that the rainfall of a
country depends in a great measure upon the
abundance of its trees. The destruction of the trees
in Sinai has no doubt greatly diminished the rainfall,
which has also been gradually lessened by the ad-
vance of the desert and decrease of cultivation on the
north and north-west, whereby a large rain-making
area has gradually been removed.
In consequence, too, of the mountainous character
of the Peninsula of Sinai, the destruction of the
trees would have a much more serious effect than
would be the case in most countries, Formerly, when
the mountain-sides were terraced, when garden-walls
extended across the wadys, and the roots of trees
retained the moisture and broke the force of the
water, the’ terrible floods that now occur, and sweep
everything before them, were impossible.
In the winter of 1867 I witnessed one of the
greatest floods that has ever been known in the
542 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
Peninsula. I was encamped in Wady Feiran, near
the base of Jebel Serbal, when a tremendous thunder-
storm burst upon us. After little more than an
hour’s rain, the water rose so rapidly in the pre-
viously dry wady, that I had to run for my life, and
with great difficulty succeeded in saving my tent and
goods; my boots, which I had not time to}pick up,
being washed away. In less than two hours a dry
desert wady, upwards of 300 yards broad, was
turned into a foaming torrent from 8 to 10 feet deep,
roaring and tearing down, and bearing everything
before it—tangled masses of tamarisks, hundreds of.
beautiful palm-trees, scores of sheep and goats, ~
camels and donkeys, and even men, women, and
children; for a whole encampment of Arabs was
washed away a few miles above me. The storm com-
menced at five o’clock in the evening; at half-past
nine the waters were rapidly subsiding, and it was
evident that the flood had spent its force. In the
morning a gently-flowing stream, but a few yards
broad and a few inches deep, was all that remained
of it. But the whole bed of the valley was changed, .
Here, great heaps of boulders were piled up, where |
hollows had been the day before; there, holes had -
taken the place of banks covered with trees. Two
miles of tamarisk wood, which was situated above the
palm-groves, had been completely washed away,
and upwards of a thousand palm-trees swept dowr
to the sea. The change was so great that I could
not have believed it possible in so short a time, had I
not witnessed it with my own eyes.
The fact is, that in consequence of the pecans
ANCIENT INHABIVANTS. 543
of the mounting, ths ater: hen a heey storm of
rain falls, rans down from their rocky sides just like
it does in this country from the roofs of our houses.
There is nothing in the valleys to check it, and so it
gathers force almost instantaneously, and sweeps
everything before it. The monks used formerly to
build walls across the gullies leading down from the
mountains; they planted the wadys with fruit trees,
and made terraces for their gardens, and these
checked the drainage and let it down by degrees, so
that the storms in their days must have been com-
paratively harmless. The Amalekites, and former
inhabitants of the Peninsula, adopted probably the
same means for increasing the fertility of their
country.
It is interesting to find even now some traces of
the ancient inhabitants. The country abounds with
ruins of the old monastic times. The walls of the
old cathedral of Paran are still standing. Ruined
chapels and monasteries are frequently met with, and
hermits seem to have established their cells far and
wide over the central mountains. The tradition that
a population of seven or eight thousand monks once
inhabited the Peninsula is quite confirmed by these
remains of their occupation. But during my wan-
derings in 1867 I found that there were other ruins
of a much older date: houses similar in form to
the “bothan,” or beehive houses in Scotland, built
of rough and. massive stones, about 5 feet high,
and 40 or 50 feet in circumference, with no win-
dows, and one small door about 20 inches high.
In the walls each successive course of stones is made
B44 RECOVERY OF: JERUSALEM.
to project slightly inwards beyond the one. below it,
and so a dome is produced, the top being formed of
one large slab of stone. These houses are generally
found in groups, and near them are often seen the
ruins of tombs—circles of massive stones—similar to
those which “in England and Scotland are called
Druids’ circles,
Of course, it is impdssible to say with certainty
that these are Amalekite ruins; but they agree
exactly with what we should expect to find of the
_ buildings of such a people. ‘They are of the oldest
form of. architecture which is known to us; and
they evidently were made by a large and powerful
people who inhabited the. Peninsula at a very early
period. The Amalekites are the only nation of
antiquity of whose existence in that country we have
any record. Their buildings, then, we believe them
to be; and if we are-right in doing so, they go far to
prove this interesting fact, that the Amalekites were
.to some extent an agricultural as well as a. pastoral
people, for in two or three spots I have found evi-
dent traces of gardens in connection with these
ruins. ~
It is even possible that some of the circles of
stones, many of which are fifteen, thirty, and even
more than one hundred yards in diameter, may mark
the spots where the children of Israel buried their
dead. The ruins of an Egyptian temple remain,
and tablets of hieroglyphics, which the kings of
Egypt caused to be inscribed upon the rocks to mark
‘the progress of their mining-operations long before
the time of the Exodus, are still almost as perfect as
OLD TRADITIONS. 845
the day on which they’ were made. Why, then,
Should not some relics.of thé march of the Israelites
be found? If any heaps of stones or burial inclo-
sures were made by them, they surely must remain,
unless the storms have swept them away. There is,
however, no mark by which to recognise such relics.
of the past. There is nothing to tell the history of -
- many a huge stone, which has certainly stood there
for thousands of years, but whether raised by an
Israelite or an Amalekite, or even some. more aticient
race, remains unknown. One can but look, and
wonder.
Traditions of the passage of the children of Israel
through the country are common enough. Many,
no doubt, are merely of monkish origin, yet some
appear to have been handed down from far earlier
times. But these traditions are extremely vague.
They seem, indeed, to prove that the country is the
wilderness of Sinai, but they prove nothing more.
It is to the natural features of the desert that’ we
must alone look for any help in following the -steps
of the ‘chosen, people. Even the ancient names,
which generally cling so long and closely to a
country, appear to have been lost here. There is.
not a single name of any one of the roads to Mount
Sinai that bears any resemblance to the names of
the encampments as recorded in the Pentateuch, un-
less it be “ Wady el Esh, ‘the valley’ of the nest ;”
which seems, after all, not a very probable corruption
of -Alush. . ;
The Sinaitic inscriptions have been supposed by
some to have-aetually been the work of the children
20 :
546 RECOVERY OF JERUSALEM.
of Israel during their wanderings in the desert.
The fact, however, that ‘bilingual inscriptions, Greck
and Sinaitic, are found, is alone sufficient to prove the
fallacy of such a theory, But by the help of these
bilingual inscriptions, Mr. Palmer has been able to
read with ease and certainty the Sinaitic character,
and he has found, that the inscriptions consist mainly
of detached sentences, for the most part proper
names, with such introductory formule as Oriental
people have from time immemorial been accustomed
to prefix to their compositions, such as “Peace be
with him,” or, “May he be remembered.” Christian
signs and symbols are also frequently connected with
the Sinaitic inscriptions ; and there appear to be good
reasons for believing that the greater number of
them were made about the second or third centuries
of our era, and that the date of the very earliest
cannot be prior to the second century before Christ.
If, however, some interesting theories and statements
of former travellers have been upset by the more care-
ful and accurate examination which has been made
of the Peninsula of Sinai by the Ordnance Survey,
this at least has been firmly established—that the
physical conditions of the country are such as to render
it quite possible that the events recorded in the
book of Exodus occurred there; a fact which has
been denied by more than one writer. It is wonder-
ful how apparent difficulties melt away as one’s
acquaintance with the country increases,
The. route of the Israelites has not indeed been laid
' down with absolute certainty, but much light has un-
doubtedly been thrown upon it by the explorations
CONCLUSION. BAT
that have been made; and I may add, that not a
single member of the expedition returned home with-
out feeling more firmly convinced than ever of .the
truth of that sacred history, which he found illustrated
and confirmed by the natural features of the desert.
The mountains and valleys, the very rocks, barren and
sun-scorched as they now are, seem to furnish evi-
dences, which none who behold them can gainsay,
that this was that “great and terrible wilderness,”
through which Moses, under God’s direction, led His
people.
[Inpex.
INDEX.
Anp AL-MALeg, 313,
Abel, or Abil, 447,
Abu Zany, 342.
Acra, 237, 269, 304,
Adullam, 227.
Ai, 469.
Aiha Temple, 396.
Ain, See Fountain.
Ain Hershah Temple, 395.
Altar of burnt offerings, 207, 316.
Amfd, Wady, 352.
Anselm, 198.
Antonia, See Tower.
Antoninus, 344, 383.
Aqueducts and canals, 9, 13, 17, 19, 23,
24, 25, 29, 90, 94, 104, 124, 130, 164,
171, 178, 180, 226, 233, 256,
Arak el Emir, 390, 402, 404,
Arbela (Inbid), 355.
Architectural styles, 401-407.
Axculf, 28, 322, 359, 383.
Armenian convent, 9.
Arub, Wady, 24.
Asnerio, 277.
Asiatic Venus, 421.
Auranitis, 415.
Ayan, 447. ox
Baalbec, 390.
Baal Samin, 421.
Banias, 439,
Baris, 303.
Basalt of the Sea of Galilee, 341.
Bashan, 414.
Bathaniyeh, or Batanwa, 416.
Batihah, 339, 365.
Beitin, or Bethel, 469,
Benjamin of Tudela, 322.
Beth Mokad, 206, 331.
Bethshan, or Beisan, 461.
| Bethesda. See Pools,
Bethsaida, 197, 342, 366, 375.
Bethzatha, 11.
Bezetha, 11.
Bir. See Wells.
Birket. See Pools.
Boaheddin, 350.
Bordeaux Pilgrim, 197, 198, 303, 321,
Bosra, Kings of, 417.
Bridge, supposed, near 8,.E, Angle, 151.
Brocardus, 198, 322,
| Burj Laklah, 160.
: Byar, Wady, 24, 236,
{
Candlestick, seven-bravched, 344.
| Capernaum, 339, 342, 375.
| Cartography, 28.
| Castle of Antonia, 803. See also Tower.
: Cavern in front of Triple Gate, 155,
| 295, 299.
550
Cemetery, excavation at British, 280.
Chel, 317.
Chorazin, 346, 375.
Church of the Holy Sepulchre, 10, 11,
28.
Church of the Resurrection, or Anas-
tasis, 10. :
Church, English, 268,
Church of St. Etienne, 277.
Church of St. Anne, 11, 12, 28, 193,
195, 197.
Church of the Tomb of the Virgin, 160.
Cisterns and tanks, 9, 17, 19, 20, 28, 26>
30,91, 98, 102, 106, 116, 183, 204, 233.
Citadel or Tower of David, 9, 28, 29,
269.
Constantine, 10.
Coracinus, 352, 376, 378.
Dan, Laish, or Tel el-Kadi, 443.
David, 91, 303, 314.
Débris, character of, 58."
Deir-el-Ashayir, 396,
Dothan, or Dotan, 463,
Drains, 102, 114, 177, 183, 186, 221,
297, ©
Drainage, 27, 95.
Ebal, 464,
Eece Homo Arch, 197,
Endor, 459.
En Rogel, 307.
Eusebius, 196, 369, 883.
Epiphanins, 344, 383.
Er Rohebeh, 431.
Esdraelon, 457.
Et-Tel, 365, 469.
Fik, 339, 870.
Fiorus, 312.
Fountains and springs:
Ain Aysheb, 342.
Ain Barideh, 358.
Ain el Luz’h, or Fountain of the
Almond, 258.
Ain Etan, 24.
Ain ot-Tin, 350, 877.
Ain et-Tabigah, 348, 377.
‘Ain Mudaworah, or Round Foun-
tain, 352, 377.
“INDEX.
Fountains ard springs—continued.
Ain Zapy, 342, *
At the Church of the Flagellation,
197.
Fons Sion, 29.
Saracenic Fountains, 23. :
Seale Fountain, 24, 235, %
Fountain of the Virgin, or Ain
Usam ed-Deraj, 13, 19, 22,425,
76% 237, 240, 307.
Fresco, 186.
Gadara, 371.
Galilee, Sea of, 337.
Gamala, 340, 370.
Gates of eity :
Damascus, 8, 193, 277.
Dung, 8, 95, 124, 291.
Jaffa, 7 9, 10, 21, 25, 94.
Sion, 8:
Bab az-Zahiré, or Herod’s Gate, 8,
167, 169.
St. Stephen’s, or Bab Sitti Miriam,
8, 11, 28, 160, 161, 170-176, 193,
197,
Gates of the Haram, or Sanctuary :
Single, 8, 121, 134, 226.
Passage under Single, 132,
Double, or Huldah, 8, 16, 118, 229,
297, 319.
Triple, 8, 118, 184, 226.
Golden Gate, 8, 12, 28, 153, 184.
Column in front of Golden Gate,
155.,
Buarclay’s, Gate of Mahomet, or
Prophet’s Gate, 15, 30, 108, 108,
109, 111, 323.
Bab el-Maghiribe, or Moor's Gate,
15, 111.
Bab el-Mathara, or Gate of the
Bath, 17, 116.
Bab es-Silsileh, or Gate of the
Chain, 21. :
Bab el-Hytta, 195, 209.
Bab en-Nazir, or Gate of the In-
spector, 225.
Bab el-Aten, 195.
Gates into the Parbar, or Suburb,
78, 111.
INDEX,
Gate Gennath, 10, 274,
Gate Tadi, 206, 207, 310, 317, 331.
Gate Nitsots, 206, 317, 331.
Gateway in Secret Pussage, 93,
Gaulanitis, 416.
Gennesareth, 338, 348.
Gergesa, 339, 346, 368.
Gerzim, 464,
Ghassan, 430,
Ghuweir, 339, 351, 377;
Gilboa, 459, 463.
Glass, 488,
Haman, Wady, 352.
Hamman-esh-Shefa,
Hamrath, 419,
‘ Haram osh-Shereef, or Noble Sane-
+ tacvs, 8, 11, 13,23, 112.
Character of masonry: of the walls,
390. :
North sido, 189.
South wall. 118.
East wall, 15, 135.
West wall, 76, 115,
N.E, Angle, 12, 159, 169, 180, 182,
185,
Passage under N.E. Angle, 162,
S.E.-Angle, 13, 15, 188, 150,
Jars found at 8.E, Augle, 140, 152.
S.W. Angle, 15,
NW, Angle, 13.
Phoenician characters (supposed)
on walls, 199, 148, 145,148, 152,
167, 183, 317,
Great course of stones, 120, 126,
Kubbet es-Sakhra, or Dome of the
~ Rock, sometimes called impru-
perly the Mosque of Omar, 8,
14, 17, 28, 188, 218, 221, 223,
310, 312.
Platform of ditto, 167, 193.
Bir el-Arwah, 13, 205, 223, 224,
Dome of the Roll, 207, 316,
Dome of St, George, 224,
The cup, 316,
Stoa Basilica, great Southern Por-
tico, or Royal Cloisters, 9, 16,
95, 134, 229, 323,
Solomon’s Stables, 13, 226, 300, 323.
Sce Well,
551
Haram esh-Shercef—continued.
Cradle of our Lord Jesus, 228, 282,
Mosque of el-Aksa, 8, 23, 28, 215.
Tomb of Aaron’s sons, 216,
Standing-pl.ce of Elias, 216,
Robinson’s Arch, 16, 18, 79, 94,
125, 310.
Mosque of El-Burek, 15, 112.
Wailing-place, 79, 113, 115, 127,
168, 179, 182, 317.
Wilson's Arch and Viaduct, 16,
23, 29, 76, 82, 85, 110, 124,
Masonic Hall, 87.
Secret Passage, 91.
Harat ad-Dawayeh, 391.
Harat esh-Sharaf, 268.
Hattin, 338, 340, 357.
Hauran, 410,
Architecture of Hauran, 423.
Hazor or Tara, 449,
Hazor or Enhazor, 453.
Hebron, 89, 320,
Hermon, 338, 442, _
Herod, 9, 91, 110, 118, 172, 225, 229,
285, 303, 309-326, 415, 416, 421,
Herod Agrippa, 172, 416, 421,
Hesban, 44.
Uczekiah, 29, 225, 235, 303.
Pool of. . See Pools.
Uibbariych, 396.
Innom, 6, 7, 19, 307.
Hippieus, 7, 9.
Hosh Bezbizi, 198.
House of Baptism, 201, 331.
Huleh, or Waters of Merom, 448.
Huokkok, 453.
Hunin, 447.
Husn Niha, 394,
{dumean Princes, 416.
Iturea, 416.
Jacob’s Well, 465.
Jebel Sts, 435,
Jebel Yermuk, 452.
Jerash, 398,
Jerusalem :
Orduance Survey, 3; description of
the site, 6; walls and gates, 7
552
“mezzeh” and “melekeh”
limestone, 8 ; Haram esh-Sherif,
Mosque el-Aksa, Kubbet es-
Sakhra, 8; various theories as
to site of Temple, 8; Tower 0
David, 9; Church of the Holy
INDEX,
Moabite Stone, 496.
Discovery of, 498.
First translation, 503,
Latest ditto, 504.
Professor Scllottmann on the, 505.
Mr. Deutsch on the, 511,
Sepulchre, Gate Gonnath, 10;; Moriah, 7, 8, 18, 304, 314.
Bezetha, 11; description of the;
Haram, 12; water supply, 17;
rainfall, 25; sanitary condition,
27; drainage, 27; cartography,
28.
Jordan, 446.
Jotham, 285.
Kadesh, or Kedes, 449.
Kakan, 96.
Kalct Husn, 370.
Kalat Jalfid, 10, 301.
Kalat Ibn Mo’an, 353.
Kalybeh, 427.
Kedron, 6, 7, 11, 12,
256, 807.
Kerazeh, 346.
Kharbet-cl-Beida, 482,
Khureibebh, 351.
Klureitun, 227.
Khan Minych, 337, 348, 350, 377.
Khersa, 339, 868.
Kureibeh, 449.
Kurn Hattin, 356.
Ledja, 413.
Lifta, 67, 265, 305.
Lightfoot, 218, 307, 831.
Lubich, 340, 357.
Mac)ipeluh, 41.
Manasseh, 285.
Manna, Pot of, 345.
Marinus Sanutus, 28.
Mariamne, 7,
. Manndeville, 222,
Mezzeh, 8.
Melekeh, 8.
Megiddo, 460.
Mojir ed Din, 90, 207, 224, 323.
Moriah, 7, 8, 13, 304, 314.
Mejdel, or Magdala, 339, 353.
Merom. See Mulch.
17, 19, 28, 135,
Muristan, 268-274.
Nubathwan Princes, 416.
Nablis, or Shechem, 464.
Nazareth, 454,
Nehemiali, 237, 280, 303.
Nemara, 436, *
Nitsots. See Gate.
Objects, miscellaneous, found in excava-
tions, 491.
Olivet, 306.
Ophel, 285, 304.
Ophel wall, 149, 287, 297.
Extra tower on ditto, 293.
Oulam, 420,
Palace of Solomon, 109, 118, 285, 319,
Palace of Hezekiah, 303.
Palmyra, 392.
Paschal Lamb sculptured, 344.
Passargade, 390.
Pavements, 101, 122, 127.
Persepolis, 398.
Phasaclus, 7, 9.
Pompey, 304, 310, 817.
Pontius Pilate, 24, 235.
Pools:
Siloam, 21, 22, 287, 807.
Near Tombs of the Kings, 21, 22.
Of Hezekiah, 21, 22.
Bethseda, or Birket Israil, 11, 12,
21, 22, 160, 163, 166, 167, 169,
172, 178, 189, 193-200.
Near Jaffu Gate, 21.
Near Gate of the Chain, 21.
Near Church of St. Anne, 12, 21,
Of El-Burak, 16, 21, 76, 83.
OF Solomon, at Urtas, 17, 24, 223,
233.
Birket Mamilla, 21, 23, 235, 237.
Birket es-Sultan, 21, 23, 287.
INDEX,
Pouls—continued,
Birket Sitti Miriam, 21, 22, 160.
Gihon, 235, 237.
Pool of the Bath, 269.
Bath of the Sultan, 281.
Gihon, 237,
Porch of Bolomon, 304, 317.
Pottery, 140, 153, 472.
Phopnician, 473
Greev-Phoenicinn, 475,
Roman, 481.
Christian, 483.
Arabic, 487,
Puophinus, 10.
Qanatha, 416,
Qemnawat, 419,
Rainfall, 25.
Ramah and Riunch, 452.
Rejm and Ridjmah, 433,
Rephaim, Plain of, 24, 29, 235.
Roofs, 108.
Rubudiych, Wady, 352.
Sawulf, 198, 322.
Safa, 413, 430.
Saida, 173.
Sarcophagus, 805, 403.
Sculptured slab, 301.
Seal of Haggai, 123,
Seilfin, or Shiloh, 458.
Semakh, 339, 367.
Serai, 193,
Séz, 435,
Sewer, 95, 190.
Shahbeh, 422,
Shechem. Sce Nablis.
Biah, 419, 422.
Siloam, 7, 20, 25,
Sinai, 5138,
Mode of travelling, 515.
Survey-of, 519.
Position of, 520, 525.
‘Wilderness of Sin, 533.
attle of Rephidim, 535.,
Former fertility, 541.
Ancient inhabitants, 543,
Old traditions, 545.
553
Sion, or Zion, 237, 304.
Sisters of Sion, 11, 18, 26, 31, 194, 224,
Solomon, 110, 153,
Souaidah, 418, 422,
Springs. See Fountains.
Strato’s Tower, 201.
| Streets-of David, 82, 90.
Bab Hytta, 160.
Turik Bab Sitti Miriam, 195.
Vir Dolorosa, 198, 195, 200.
. EL Wad, or the Valley, 269, 281.
Christian Strect, 269,
of tlie Bazaar, 270,
Suwaineh, 96.
Tabigah, 346, 348
Tabor, 456.
Tacitus, 224.
Tadi. See Gate.
Takeyeh, 269,
‘Tanks. See Cisterns,
Tariches, 362.
Tel Hum, 842,
Tel Zareyné, 351.
‘Temple (see also Haram), 8, 31, -109,
110, 138, 122, 206, 221, 222, 225, B0y-
326.
Templars Cross, 278.
Tesserm, 186,
‘Theatre of Hadrian, 297.
Thelthatha, 895.
Tiberias (Tabariyeh), 339, 360,
Titrus, 108, 225, 310, 363.
Tombs, 153, 172, 401-404, 418, 419.
‘Tower at. N.E. Angle, 167, 175.
Tower of Antonia, 166, 196, 201, 221,
225, 303, 309-826,
Tower of David. Sve Citadel.
Tower, supposcd, at 8.E. Angle, 150.
Tower of Hanancel, 162.
Tower of Meah, 162.
‘Tower of Maidens, 277.
Trachonitis, 416,
‘Tyropeeon, 6, 10, 13, 16, 18, 19, 119,
122, 126.
Umm Keis, or Gadara, 371. ‘
Umm Ez-Zeitin, 427.
Upper City, 7, 9, 269.
Urtas, Wady. Sce Pools of Solomon.
2P
554 INDEX.
Valley of Doves, 388. Wells—continued.
Vespasian, 360. Hamman esh-Shefa, 18, 25, 26, 76.
Via Dolorosa, 193, 195. See Streets. Of thelfeaf, 208, 215, 217.
William of Tyre, 322.
‘Walls, 10, 304-326. Willibald, 384.
,
bani A ‘all, 272. Xystus, 319,
Bir el-Arwah, or Well of the Souls. | Zaanain, 449,
See under Haram. Zion. See Sion.
Bir Eyab, or Well of Joab, 6, 19, | Zehweéle, 307,
20, 25, 257. Zoheleth, 307.
Well of the Steps, 257. Zerin, or Jezreel, 458.
THE END.
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